UKC

Just wondered if there is a safer route into smiths, rather than straight up the gully on loaded slopes? Also the forecast is for very strong winds (wed/thu) and i would therefore not want to approach from tower ridge area.
As i write this, i feel I've just answered my own question and may stay put, but curiosity is getting the better of me.

In reply to Rick Asher:

Hiya Rick Ross here, what about climbing tower scoop and crossing tower gully once topped out, therefore minimising your time in the gully itself?? Obviously only possible if tower scoop is claimable.

In reply to nation1:

What about down climbing Tower Ridge and abbing out of the gap?

In reply to Rick Asher:

Hi Ross, I've covered that ground before and the scoop is quite high up in the gully, therefore you will have to climb on quite a lot of potentially loaded slopes to get to the scoop. If memory serves me right, smiths is only 50-100m above the scoop?

In reply to Rick Asher:

not been up that area myself, that was just a guide book consultation answer ! You up there looking to climb something then ?

In reply to Rick Asher: if you are desperate could you ab down indicator wall from the trig point? You would need one abolakov, maybe two though?

I recognise this is pretty daft.

In reply to Rick Asher:

A month ago I climbed Smiths having got to the base via Tower Ridge and the Eastern traverse continuation into Tower Gully. I know you have said you don't want to approach via tower ridge due to forecast high winds but it does make for a very nice day out without the horrible slog up Tower gully. If time and conditions permitted I'd try to link Vanishing or Italian right hand to get onto the ridge.

In reply to Rick Asher:

thanks guys but i've sacked the idea as the forecast is deteriorating, wet approaches, considerable avalanche danger, high winds and freezing level now above the tops, I'm keen, but not that keen, too many negatives, cheers

In reply to nation1:

was considering a flyer, may try again next week, let me know if you want to go, I'll text

In reply to Rick Asher:

How about abseil down the route? I know the top pitch doesn't go straight down and the cornice exit is currently on climbers left, but if you abbed down through there and down the climbers left side of the route you might be ok? Just an idea, but not one I'd consider doing myself!