In reply to Tricadam:
I hear Gardah Gully (I/II) is a particularly elusive climb... I went on a university mountaineering trip to the CIC in March 2014 and there were 5 attempts on Garadh Gully and 5 failures (I hasten to add that I was not directly involved)... It was slightly surreal especially because by that stage the route was in such soft condition and had banked out as a uniform snow slope with no short ice steps.
On the first day of the trip, two teams set out to claim an afternoon ascent and were turned around after they found (3 hours later) that they had spent too much time pitching the approach slopes.
On the third day of the trip, one team set out in the morning to climb the gully followed by Raeburn's easy route... We found them waiting in the hut when we returned that afternoon. They had such a toxic partnership and argued to such a great extent (over a couple of hours) before even entering the gully that they aborted on the approach slopes again.
Finally, on the fifth day of the trip, two more teams set out to claim an 'elusive' and 'highly prized' ascent. I went off with my partner to climb Psychedelic Wall that day and as we finished off the top pitch we saw a helicopter rescuing someone off the other side of Tower Ridge (in the vicinity of Garadh Gully). We topped out and rushed over to Garadh gully to see if they were ok. We bumped into the two teams as they were descending back to the CIC hut (thankfully unharmed). They had again climbed the approach slopes, this time beneath another team. The leader of the pair above fell off the snow slope within meters of entering the gully and fell about 20m breaking his ankle. The two teams from my uni waited for the helicopter to arrive and then subsequently backed off telling tales of the gnarliness of the route.
Five team failures in five days, and not a single one made it further than a couple of meters into the climb. That week I also lead some guys up Slingsbys and we were forced to retreat when the two guys I was leading didn't think they could second the top pitch. There was also a pair that didn't get up Ledge Route. Not the most successful week for most of the people on the trip... How I love university mountaineering!
Post edited at 21:18