UKC

Hi, I'm off to the Frankenjura at sthe start of June for sport climbing but I wuld really like to try some drytooling routes while I am there but so far I haven't managed to find any details. Does anyone know off any routes?

Thanks a lot in advance.

Tony

In reply to tonytc:

Pulls up chair, opens popcorn...

JW

In reply to John Ww:


......turns on slow cooker and puts on comfy slippers.

In reply to tonytc:

Did I Faux pas a touch? What's the beef guys? Did I post in the wrong forum or is there just a general dislike of drytooling?

Quite interested in the answer actually.

In reply to tonytc:
Well:
Any mention of drytooling generally provokes a heated, ethical debate on UKC. It tends to polarise.
The Frankenjura is probably best known as a hard sport climbing area. The limestone there might not be the best medium for tooling practice.*
The Germans have quite a history of losing crags due to potential damage and environmental pressure; don't know about the Frankenjura but the Swabisch Alb area probably has about 25% of the crags now 'closed'.
I think I found it kind of funny that someone off to the Frankenjura in June would consider packing axes and crampons: but maybe just my warped sense of humour.

If you're willing to travel a bit then Starzlachklamm might be a start?

Andy

* and I do realise that for a few it is not 'practice' but 'the real thing'.

In reply to tonytc:

Nearly all the Frankenjura is under nature protection, new routes are extremely restricted and ripping the soft rock to bits with tools would bring the wrath of the authorities and climbers on you. Anything you can tool the locals can climb anyway.
IF you can find a suitable cliff and IF you managed to get it opened for new routes then it will be bolted anyway before you can blink. On the majority of cliffs climbing is only allowed on existing routes so dry tooling is anyway out.
There is a drytooling venue in the Bavarian Forest and I´m not telling you where it is
Most people just go to the Alps.

In reply to tonytc:

Thanks guys, very informative. I hadn't realised about the environmental conservation aspect of climbing in the 'jura. I just assumed there was so much rock there, there was bound to be a couple of drytooling routes.

I live in the Czech Republic and I only know of one route here and that's M12. A tad out of my range

The Alps is a bit far for a weekend drive and climb but cheers for the advice.

In reply to tonytc:

If you're in the Czech Republic you might want to look East? In Slovakia Lacnov-vratnica rings a bell with me.