UKC

IFSC Innsbruck

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 stp 18 May 2016
Back in Europe with a much bigger start list this Saturday. Full British team, a massive Austrian team and stronger competition in women's including Janja Garnbret and Megan Mascarenas (both likely finalists).

Looks like a really exciting event.

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=sta...
 alx 18 May 2016
In reply to stp:

Can't wait, will be watching this sat in the departures lounge at Heathrow on my way to Rocklands.
 AlanLittle 19 May 2016
In reply to stp:

I'm going. Managed to convince my son it would be the perfect birthday outing for him; hoping he will be inspired to head up to Zillertal on Sunday. Can't make it to the qualis tomorrow but will head down early Saturday morning in time for the semis.
OP stp 19 May 2016
In reply to AlanLittle:

Cool. Sounds like one of the best to visit because of the fantastic crowd atmosphere.
 AlanLittle 19 May 2016
In reply to stp:

We live in Munich and the World Cup in 2014 was a fantastic atmosphere, especially with Jule Wurm winning in front of her home crowd. But the Munich event is always in the school holidays and we’re usually away. Innsbruck isn’t too far down the road, and I’m hoping the Austrian crowd should be similar or even better.

Hoping Shauna will be back on form, my son has invested his pocket money in a very large union jack.
OP stp 20 May 2016
In reply to stp:

Really interesting results from the men's qualifiers today.

Some top names didn't make semis. Out are Schubert, Gelmanov, Hojer, Landman, Bonder and Verhoven.

But two Brits made it through. Dave Barrans just scraped through while Nathan Philips qualified second in his group behind Alexey Rubtsov.

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=163...

It will be interesting to see how the women get on.
OP stp 20 May 2016
In reply to stp:

The women are climbing now. No live stream unfortunately. But the results are updated on the IFSC site and Liam Lonsdale is doing a Twitter commentary.

Shauna has flashed the first two problems so far...

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=163...

https://twitter.com/LiamLonsdale/with_replies
OP stp 20 May 2016
In reply to stp:

Shauna, Janja and Melissa Le Neve get perfect scores in group 1 and Anna Stohr is the only person with a perfect score in group 2 (ahead of Akiyo and Miho).

Leah and Michaela also went through meaning we have 5 people in the semis!

I think the women's could be a really exciting contest. Great to see Anna Stohr performing well again.
OP stp 21 May 2016
In reply to stp:

Short video of yesterday's qualification round showing the problems.

http://onbouldering.com/2016-innsbruck-bouldering-world-cup-qualifiers/
pm94501 21 May 2016
In reply to stp:

so tense in the semis - as always, shauna handled the pressure when she needed to
OP stp 21 May 2016
In reply to pm94501:

Yeah really tense. Really exciting round for the women and the final could really go to any one of them now. Looking forward to it.

The men's too has an all star cast. McColl's effort was amazing. Good to see Dmitri back in a final. There always seems to be one Russian, and it could be anyone of them.
OP stp 21 May 2016
In reply to stp:
Amazing win by Shauna against some very tough competition in this final. She only beat Janja by two attempts.

According to Liam Lonsdale's Twitter feed Shauna has also taken the overall title. But with Vail and Munich to go it still seems possible Miho, Melissa Le Neve or Akiyo could take it. Two wins would take any of them ahead of Shauna's current score. So by my calculations it's not in the bag yet?
Post edited at 22:42
 Andy Farnell 21 May 2016
In reply to stp: If Shauna makes 2 more finals she is guaranteed to be world champ.

Sorry, make that WHEN Shauna makes two more finals she will be world champion. The first English world champion since Simon Nadin back in the late 80's

Andy F

OP stp 21 May 2016
In reply to andy farnell:

Of course, one score of the 7 rounds is dropped. The most Miho can get now (dropping her worst score) is 495 if she wins the next two rounds. Shauna is currently on 437 But dropping her Mumbai score will put her on 400. So she needs another 96 points to seal it. So I think two more finals as long as one is better than sixth - or one more win.

If she's world champ I wonder if there might be more impetus to have a UK round next year.


 Andy Farnell 22 May 2016
In reply to stp: If, sorry, when Shauna wins, do you think the major sporting news outlets (BBC, Skysports, ITV, the written press) will take any notice? Probably very little, but you never know.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

Simon got a mention on SPOTY when he won the WC in 1989, he might even have been there.

But the profile is so much higher now so yes there will be some mainstream coverage when Shauna lifts the trophy in Munich. She was in the Observer last weekend (or was it 2 weeks ago), and she has the PR machines of Adidas and Red Bull behind her.
In reply to stp:

2 x 6th = 94 points, a 5th gives 51 points. And that assumes Miho wins both rounds, the Americans will be favourites in Vail, living year round at 6,000ft is a big advantage for Vail.

The deadline for applications was end of April so no chance of getting a British round next year.
OP stp 22 May 2016
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

> the Americans will be favourites in Vail, living year round at 6,000ft is a big advantage for Vail.

But surely most/all of the climbers don't live in Vail and live at more normal elevations the rest of the year. The main advantage is surely not being knackered from from continuous jetlag and travel of the previous rounds I'd have thought.

> The deadline for applications was end of April so no chance of getting a British round next year.

Too bad. Maybe the year after then.

It's interesting how Aikyo is seen as a superstar in Japan after her WC successes and appears on TV regularly.

Having the World Champ here has got to be good news, especially in the run up to the Olympics.

In reply to stp:

I thought that Shauna's send of the final problem was one of the most assured technical pieces of climbing I've seen, well, ever. Mrs Paul_in_Sheffield was musing how Shauna's would fare in the men's competition. Any thoughts?
In reply to stp:

Megan lives in Colorado Springs, 6000ft. Pooch lives in Boulder 6000ft.

Vail is 10,000ft (ish).

Big advantage especially as this year with no Canada the Europeans and Asians have jet lag and altitude to deal with.
 Dandan 23 May 2016
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

> Mrs Paul_in_Sheffield was musing how Shauna's would fare in the men's competition. Any thoughts?

I once thought about setting myself a target of making it to the semi-finals of the CWIF, so I had a look at the qualifying scores to see how well I would need to do. Turns out I was being a bit (a lot) optimistic, to get in this years male semi-final you needed to score 32 more points than Shauna in the qualifiers! Her score would have placed her a lowly 36th in the male category.
Males and females both qualify on the same boulders for the CWIF, is that right? So that at least shows that Shauna wouldn't have made the male semis by quite a way...
In reply to DanDan82:
bear in mind Shauna will know she doesnt need to complete all the boulders to reach the semis at CWIF, so may well coast. ie not even attempt harder blocs. So not really a fair comparison.

 Dandan 23 May 2016
In reply to Robertostallioni:

Fair point. I imagine not all the top 36 males at CWIF can boulder 8B outdoors for example...
In reply to Robertostallioni:

We know that she has done this in the past, one year Team WAD lost the team prize as a result.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...