UKC

Hi,

I have pain somewhere in my big toe. I know that is vague but the pain seems to be spread over the whole toe.

It is over two weeks before I can see my GP so I was hoping to get some advise here by someone who may have had the same experience.

It is not a sharp pain but I can definitely feel something is wrong. It is an ever present dull aching pain. It doesn't fit the bunion bill as there is no deformity. Sesamoiditis seems like a possibility.

I think I need a really supportive stiff climbing shoe and don't want to stop climbing and training.

1. What is the best shoe?
2. Is it acceptable to climb indoors in approach shoes and just do steep endurance boulder stuff that doesn't put much weight on your feet? (Anyone climbed in approach shoes at the Arch?)
3. Would something like the evolve shaman be good because the love bump supports your big toe?

Thanks is advance. I don't want to stop training and I am not strong enough to just hang board/campus while it heals.

In reply to jasonpather:

1. Whatever fits - board lasted shoes come in all shapes just like soft slip lasted ones. Can't help you much there. TC Pro's are just katanas with a hightop but often reccommended?

2. If the approach shoes are clean and you're clearly just using them indoors I don't think anyone would have too much of an issue but if you walk in them some people might get a bit upset. I've never seen someone climbing in approach shoes there except for that "end of session hangboard session".

3. It has a bump but it also has rubber above the toe, so it will still compress your big toe. What about a shoe that doesnt have rubber over the toe knuckle, like the miura vs?

In reply to jasonpather:

I was (am) having some similar problems with one foot. It seemed to appear out of nowhere, and I couldn't pin it down to just a pair of ill fitting shoes..........
It's fine in everyday life, if you're feeling pain when just walking about you might have some serious issue.
I put it down to the shoe just pressing too hard on the tip of the toe (squeezing horizontally back into the foot).

stiff soled climbing shoes didn't help; for indoor climbing I found that it was best to just wear an old pair of sloppy (comfy) shoes, anything that doesn't put pressure on the end of the big toe - i.e. the toe can lie flat (no bend at the knuckle) and the shoes are only just tight enough to touch without pressing; it's standing on small edges with the toe knuckle bent that's painful, and surprisingly isn't when lying flat.......

who knows;
I'v been resting it (and just resting in general) for a couple of months and it's getting better.
but well.... everyone and their feet are different.
hope you manage to get over it.

In reply to jasonpather:


I'd say ask at the desk first -- explain you've got a foot pain problem and can't use climbing shoes at the moment and ask if it's okay to climb in approach shoes. Obviously it's up to whoever's on duty, but I've done this on occasion in the past and the staff have been understanding and fine with it.

Some places (including the Arch) have a "no outdoor shoes on the mats" type rule, so it's better to explain and ask permission so they don't think you're just wandering round in grubby trainers.


How long's the pain been going on? If your regular shoes work well for you, you might not want to invest in a pair of super-stiff shoes unless it's clear (after seeing a doctor) that the pain is going to be a long-running thing.

All that given: obviously, the best shoes depends on what suits your foot shape and climbing needs, but hopefully people can give you some leads to try. Alas, the Five Ten Galileo (which saw me through my foot injury) is no longer available. But you can still find the Boreal Ballet (which is board-lasted), and I believe the Evolv Astroman is very stiff. I've also seen the Five Ten Verdon mentioned as a stiff shoe, and that may be more technical. The Five Ten Hiangle is stiff and also downturned, if that turns out to be easiest on your feet.

In reply to slab_happy:

The pain has been there for about 2 weeks but seems to be worse today after climbing yesterday. Hopefully I can get an appointment sooner. Thanks for the shoe advise everyone, googling now.

In reply to slab_happy:

The age old what shoe to buy question. Unfortunately there is no hard and fast answer, it really is whatever fits. Doesnt really matter the style brand or shape just find some that fit and wear them!

I wore a farrrr to tight pair of la sportiva katana for a month and did something drastic to my big toe and couldn't bend it for about 12 weeks without using my hand. Then bought some boreal which didn't fit too well either and took a punt on some miura laces for £35 from rock and run which happen to fit perfectly.

Once you find the right shoes it's obvious and a bit of a revelation.

Just try on as many pairs as you can!

In reply to daWalt:

I think your right about the small edges hurting. Yesterday I was mostly working slabs, couldn't resist as Jonny Dawes set them. I had been feeling it before that but it suddenly really hurt after climbing (pain subsided to a dull ache after a few hours).

Did you ever have it diagnosed? A couple of months doesn't sound promising.

In reply to jasonpather:

diagnosed?... nah, I take an unreformed male attitude to doctors n the like.
I would suggest a chiropodist/podiatrist/or possibly physio..... someone who specializes in feet/joints.
I suspect I just aggravated and inflamed the toe joint, it's better than it was and I can now take a bit more pressure before it becomes uncomfortable.
but yea, I'v been taking it easy for about 3 months now......
(tends to work ok if i'm climbing trad; lower grade, much less technical and there's other things to think about)...

In reply to jasonpather:

So, if it was me, I'd probably try to hold off on buying new shoes at least until I'd seen a doctor, in the hope that it'd turn out to be something treatable and short-term.

If you've got stiff approach shoes and can climb without pain (or with much less pain) in them, that might be the way to go for the moment.

(Unless you've been wanting some super-stiff shoes to add to your collection anyway.)

Practical thought: as well as ibuprofen and anything else you're doing for pain relief/anti-inflammation, try filling a large container with cold tap water and a handful of icecubes then soaking your foot for twenty minutes or so. For me, that often seems to work better than an icepack: because you can leave your foot (or other injured body part) in longer, you get a deeper cooling effect.

(Also, dammit, the Dawes slab problems, they are irresistable, aren't they? Not had a chance to try the Arch North ones yet ...)

In reply to jasonpather:
I had sesamoiditis a year ago, my advice if that's what you think you have, back off climbing now - i made the mistake of pushing on until I was hobbling about (and had to brush my teeth standing on 1 leg). In the end had to take nearly 2 months out and a shot of cortisone to clear it up.
You, should be able to feel the sesamoids at the base of your big toe, if you press reasonably hard on them and they're inflamed, you'll know!
I'd say make an appointment at a decent podiatrist as well, you won't get much out of your GP other than a referral.
If you're planning on keeping climbing, stiff shoe fitted comfy (comfy more important than stiff), down climbing, avoid slabs and look up taping for turf toe on youtube (also one footed climbing can be entertaining as long as you're careful)

Another possibility (that i also managed to do to myself) is torn cartilage in your big toe. I found once it got over the initial inflammation it's been pretty fine, only flared up again recently because my trainers were too stiff and resisting my toe movement as i walked.

Hope it all works out for you!

In reply to jasonpather:

thanks for the advise everyone. I think some hands only or right foot only bouldering should keep me entertained for a few months while it heals. might even get stronger.