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Non Sea Cliff Climbing in Cornwall

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 Jackspratt 25 May 2016
So I'm heading to Cornwall at the end of June for our summer hols, I want to get at least a couple of days climbing in but am wary of sea cliffs because my girlfriend is still very new to it all and I'd rather keep things simple, single pitch and non-tidal.
Has anyone got any ideas on a good day out I'm looking for leads from e1 5a-e2/e3/5c and Lauren Top ropes up to severe.
And I am aware that I am missing out on a lot of excellent cliff climbing haha
 mike steele 25 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

If you can handle sketchy gear and a slightly eery atmosphere, head to Cheesewring Quarry....some really easy and modest routes right up to silly stuff
 toad 25 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

There's a lot of single pitch, non tidal sea cliff climbing at (for eg) Sennen. Don't write it all off
 Greenbanks 25 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

The Landward Cliff at Bosigran, if you are new to things, is ideal (excellent range of grades, not exposed in 'sea cliff' terms, and easy access).
 ChrisBrooke 25 May 2016
In reply to toad:

Or Bosigran. Well, single pitch on a really long rope...... but not tidal for the main cliffs.
OP Jackspratt 25 May 2016
In reply to mike steele:

Thanks guys my main worry was me getting a shout from Lauren while I'm committed on the crux of something saying "my feet are getting wet, what should I do?" and also that because she is still new to it all and can't lead it had to be enjoyable for her as well. some great looking suggestions there.
 DaveHK 25 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

St Loy?
 CurlyStevo 25 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:
yeah sennen is fine, non tidal, really massive ledge to belay from for most of it and an easy desent

Roche Rock is inland Roche Rock#overview

You could stop off in Dartmoor on the way down possibly also.
Post edited at 11:27
 nr 25 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

Trewavas Head is a nice day out - Trewavas - no worries about the tide coming in, and an easy walk to both the top and bottom of the crag.
 ScottTalbot 25 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

What's your worry with sea cliffs? Sennen has plenty of non tidal climbing that you can walk to, and if you're lucky, you may even get to watch dolphins between climbs!
 Dave Garnett 25 May 2016
In reply to mike steele:

> If you can handle sketchy gear and a slightly eery atmosphere, head to Cheesewring Quarry....some really easy and modest routes right up to silly stuff

I honestly think St Loy or the landward ends of Sennen or Bosigran are far less scary than Cheesewring! I thought even the easy routes there were nails for the grades and quite intimidating.

 GrahamD 25 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

The majority of Bosigran is non tidal but you have to work very hard to make much of it single pitch ! It does, however, have masses of great stuff in your grade range and many of the stances are actually very escapable onto easier territory.
 andrewmc 25 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

As already repeatedly stated, 90% of Bosi is completely non-tidal (and in most cases way, way above the sea). Sennen has plenty of non-tidal bits BUT be careful if there is a big swell towards high tide as it can wash onto some of the big platforms. Not a problem normally. Also don't underestimate the descent at Sennen; most people on here have probably done it so many times that they don't think twice about it! But there are a few tricky steps of 2-3m in height, with very polished granite. Bosigran is a much longer walk-in but very easy scrambling approach; some of the descent gullies can be quite tricky and are quite exposed (particularly if wet/seeping) but if you are less confident you can always walk the long way around and/or belay your less experienced partner down them off blocks etc.

Incidentally 'Andrew' on Bosi is escapable at every belay; I assume (since you are looking for E1-E3 leads and your girlfriend only 'Top ropes up to severe') that you will have someone else with you to lead belay? So you could climb in a 3, and still have the option of escaping (with possible belays down gullies) at every belay.
In reply to GrahamD:

> The majority of Bosigran is non tidal but you have to work very hard to make much of it single pitch ! It does, however, have masses of great stuff in your grade range and many of the stances are actually very escapable onto easier territory.

Have to confess I'm baffled by this new 'single pitch' thing. If you can do one pitch, you can do two. You just repeat exactly the same procedure as on the first pitch. Only real difference is you only have to come down a descent route once for two pitches.
2
 toad 25 May 2016
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: if you're inexperienced, you might not relish your boyfriend abandoning you on a 2' ledge on a sea cliff surrounded by fulmars whilst he bimbles up the next pitch out of sight and maybe out of earshot. Then you realise you cant get that last nut out of the belay he built and you've inadvertently untied from your harness.........

1
 GrahamD 25 May 2016
In reply to toad:

That is hardly the situation at Bosi, though. Belay ledges are massive and on a busy day will have 4 or 5 parties sharing it comfortably.
In reply to GrahamD:

Yup, it's a matter of picking a route where the boyfriend doesn't go out of sight. Unless I've missed something, the fulmars are no less prone to puke on you on one pitch routes.
1
 3leggeddog 25 May 2016
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> Have to confess I'm baffled by this new 'single pitch' thing. If you can do one pitch, you can do two. You just repeat exactly the same procedure as on the first pitch. Only real difference is you only have to come down a descent route once for two pitches.

Me too, my best guess is it is yet another label to be exploited commercially.

You can now furnish yourself with trad, sport, winter and aid harnesses. The next logical step is a multi pitch harness and multipitch specific trousers, shirt and shreddies.

It was much simpler when we just went climbing
1
In reply to 3leggeddog:

But even then, in the simpler 'old days', we still had to instruct beginners so that they did NOT 'inadvertently untie' from their harnesses, however basic they were.
In reply to GrahamD:

PS. I remember taking several complete novices up Alison Rib at Bosigran. Perfect for the job.
1
 toad 25 May 2016
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> PS. I remember taking several complete novices up Alison Rib at Bosigran. Perfect for the job.

of course - it's lovely, but I can understand why the OP might prefer single pitch stuff, at least initially
 Big Ger 25 May 2016
In reply to nr:

> Trewavas Head is a nice day out - Trewavas - no worries about the tide coming in, and an easy walk to both the top and bottom of the crag.

Seconded. Cracking little crag, with the bonus of never being as busy as most in the area.

Also consider Porth Nanven.
 Reach>Talent 26 May 2016
In reply to ScottTalbot:
Sennen... you may even get to watch dolphins between climbs!

If the dolphins are between the climbs then you are off route, or has more of the ledge fallen off?

 Tom Last 26 May 2016
In reply to Big Ger:

> Seconded. Cracking little crag, with the bonus of never being as busy as most in the area.

It is these days. Second only to Bosi and Sennen really.

> Also consider Porth Nanven.

Nice place, but not a whole lot of worthwhile climbing to speak of, or what am I missing?
OP Jackspratt 26 May 2016
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> Have to confess I'm baffled by this new 'single pitch' thing. If you can do one pitch, you can do two. You just repeat exactly the same procedure as on the first pitch. Only real difference is you only have to come down a descent route once for two pitches.

But If I'm climbing grades substantially higher than she can climb, she cannot second me so I have to ab down and get my gear out, or am I missing a blindingly obvious way of picking her up and putting her at the top of each pitch?
 alan moore 26 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

am I missing a blindingly obvious way of picking her up and putting her at the top of each pitch?


That's what the rope is for!

 Howard J 26 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

> But If I'm climbing grades substantially higher than she can climb, she cannot second me

Maybe you should choose climbs she can second? There are plenty of superb routes at Bosigran up to Severe which are well worth doing, whatever grade you usually climb at. I did Alison Rib (Diff) the other day with someone who usually climbs HVS-E1 and he thought it was a great climb.
 Michael Hood 26 May 2016
In reply to Howard J: Black Slab at the seaward end is another lovely beginners climb - although getting to the start may be a little trickier for the inexperienced/nervous.

 Andy Hemsted 26 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

Don't listen to them! You're perfectly OK to climb lower grades with her, and harder single-pitch stuff/ab-off to get gear/with her belaying. I do this with my Penny H. all the time; many trad venues give this combination, and most sports crags abroad as well. She loves Kalymnos!

Once she's happy with single-pitch she may wish to progress to multi-pitch, but not necessarily.

In Cornwall, we found good short climbs for her at Halldrine Cove, just north of Bosi.
In reply to Jackspratt:

Yes, you would have to ab down. So pick a route which she will be able to get up. I must say, in all the time I climbed, taking many beginners up routes, I never encountered the problem. I would first take them on some very small outcrop before venturing onto a bigger, more daunting crag like Bosigran (though I've taken complete novices up that big slab at the left end, Black Slab I think. Severe?). Alison Rib is just fine. But ideally you get them used to climbing very easy routes and also familiarity with rope work. Good starting places are Little Tryfan slabs and the Capel Curig pinnacles in Snowdonia. In the Peak, Grotto Slab at the right side of the Popular End, Stanage, I've found quite useful for novices: belaying at the top of the slab and then doing the final corners as a second 'pitch'. At the Roaches, Right Route (V Diff) is suitable for a strong beginner - big holds but quite strenuous. If the first pitch goes well, the exciting top pitch with an exposed left traverse can be added. If not, there's an easy walk-off to the right. Top roping at Harborough is useful for early familiarity with with climbing steep rock on goodish holds.
1
 Iain Peters 26 May 2016
In reply to Jackspratt:

My advice would be to look up the tide times, note sea conditions and if both are friendly there are some superb single pitch choices all along the coast at the lower grades. Places like Carn Barra, Pothguarnon East on the granite, Botallack or Pendeen on the greenstone and a whole bunch of starred Diffs and V Diffs/Severes around Lizard Point in superb surroundings with none of the crowds at places like Sennen or Bosi. All the guides have information on approaches and tidal requirements. There is absolutely no need for your girlfriend to experience wave-swept epic belaying and stances. That comes later and is half the fun of Cornwall.!

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