In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, as planned I had a more restful week, seemed to do me good as I was feeling pretty worn out and it's only a matter of time before 'worn out' becomes 'broken'.
This new era of actually listening to my body is paying off so far...
M: Bodyweight antags; some good handstands
T: Indoor routes; Aerocap 3x15minutes up to 6b
W: Not a lot, few handstands.
T: Indoor routes; 4x4s, this went really well, I managed 4x6c+, 4x7a, 4x7a+, 4x7a! Really pleased with this, the 7a+ felt even more solid than last week and I managed to finish the whole set of 4x4 too, more progress!
Interestingly I bouldered to warm up and had a quick go on a V6 that I had completed before, I found it really difficult, and couldn't come close to completing it. Just goes to show how concentrating on endurance has affected my power I suppose (despite doing 1-4-7 last week, weirdly). It will be good to get onto a power phase before Kaly in August, providing I can do it whilst avoiding injury.
F-S-S: Rest and DIY, we went to Portland on Monday but i'll write about that next week.
The slightly lower key week seems to have been worthwhile, elbows feel good, everything else feels good, I'm keen to get back on it now.
I do have a question though, my right knee gets sore the day after any heavy use, yesterday involved a lot of rock hopping so today it feels a bit achey and weak when I bend it, for example walking up steps two at a time is uncomfortable. It feels like the ache is on the outsides of the joint, not in the centre of the joint, anyone got any ideas what it is and what to do about it?
Last weeks STG:
Go steady, 1x AeroCap session - TICK
10x10 second free handstands - 6/10
Next weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 4/2 - hoping to get out next weekend
Lap 7b four times -
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between