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UKC FitClub week 480

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 Dandan 29 May 2016
Morning FitClubbers!
It was pretty quiet around these parts for the last half of last week, I hope that means you were all out enjoying some good weather or getting stuck into some training. Of course it probably just means we didn’t have a collective discussion about some microbeta or what AeroPow really is or some such. (I feel a Keto diet discussion coming on once Dave Mac reveals his new regime)

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=642113

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Pysche video for the week: http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/process-of-the-unknown-chris-sharma-on-... In the absence of any bouldering world cup this week (which i’m totally hooked on), here is Chris Sharma doing his thing. The thing which psyches me most in this video is the Santa Linya cave, that looks amazing! Just need to get a whole number grade better and i’ll book my flight!

Last Weeks Posters:

Emily - Good to see some goals back up, I heard the UCR setting was off since the takeover, hopefully it will settle down.
hms - Impressive chunk of volume. Injuries aside, are you seeing improvements (in endurance)?
Nick Russell - Thats a lot of fingerboard in a week, especially when interspersed with bouldering! I guess your fingers are tough!
humptydumpty - Well done on the 7a! What sort of ‘little break’ are you thinking of?
Dandan82 - Show off
AJM - Hope the house move is going well, was the Cobbled Classic this weekend?
James Moyle - That’s a pretty speedy half marathon, good stuff!
Si dH - So close on the traverse! Arch enemies sound like a lot of fun too.
Ian Bell - Hope you are having fun in Romania!
Just Tintin - Well done on the 7A, sticking to traverses sounds like a very sensible option and it seems there are plenty to choose from
heelhookofglory - Congrats on the XC race win! Go steady with that finger now, you don’t want a tweak to turn into something worse…
TonyB - Hope the little finger hasn’t ome back to haunt you? Progress on Aberration?
Biscuit - Great week, have you had Mr Kettle’s feedback yet?
mattrm - Low on info but you sound pretty high on motivation, did you get a few more goals this week?
Ally Smith - Aside from the copious amounts of food and drink, did you enjoy Rome? Back on the traverses this week?
hokkyokusei - Good news on the shin splints, i’d say you are right based on your level of activity!

AWOL Tyler, Alexm198, Curious Yellow, also, what has happened to Joyce? Is he still lurking somewhere?
 biscuit 29 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.

Yes last week was a good one. No results from Coach K yet. It'll be done with the rest in July. I've got lifestyle, nutrition and technique/tactics to be assessed yet.

My mega session on Sunday (trying desperately not to be out climbed by 11yr olds) seems to have done something to my back. So nothing this week while I've been making old man noises every time I stand up/sit down.

Looking forward I got my last 'proper' assignment done last week. Just an easy one to do this week and then that's it. I get my life back and can go out climbing.

I cannot flipping wait.

This week I am away with kids in the campervan but aim to get a couple of sessions in towards the end of the week.
 Si dH 29 May 2016
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers Dan. Quick update from me as I'm away with my wife for the long weekend.

M: rest
T: Arch Enemies after work. Good session. Had a go to put the clips in, warm up and refine a couple of moves, then 3 rp attempts. Best go I got to the high jug but fell off mid-crux in the crack above. Only a couple of moves from the top...
W: rest
T: max hang fingerboard session, as per previous ones.
F: rest
S: shoulder rehab
S: shoulder rehab

I'm away until Tuesday. Have eaten a lot this weekend and also drunk more beer I think than the whole of the last 1-2 months...but that's only a total of 4 pints, so not too many calories
Pleased to be very much 'on redpoint' now on both Arch Enemies and Eastwood Trav.

Si
 TonyB 29 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

> TonyB - Hope the little finger hasn’t ome back to haunt you? Progress on Aberration?

Thanks Dan. The little fingers fine. I'm not sure what was wrong but resting it has made everything right again. Small progress on Aberration below.

Quite a lazy week for me. It was supposed to be a rest week but I think I took it too easy.

Wed - Bouldering. Really unstructured and just having fun. Did almost all of the brand new V4-5 circuit.

Sat - Back on Aberration. At first it felt like I had taken a step back, but certainly had made some small progress. I repeated the link of bolts 1-5 several times. I'd go as far as saying that this is solid and I didn't fall off these moves at all. I suspect they could be slicker to arrive a little more fresh. I experimented with different sequences on the crux, and have a less powerful method now. I'm pleased with this, as looking at the logbook comments it sounds like there is more than one way to do this. I'm fully extended and it's still very hard, but I linked through from bolts 5-6 which I hadn't done previously. I also made a reasonable attempt at 1-6, where I missed the crux hold by a few cms. I also linked bolts 6-anchor. So currently, I've done it in three overlapping sections. The difficulty of the route lies between bolt 5 to just beyond bolt 7. I'm optimistic about this route, but it's going to require digging deep and I'm sure the redpoint will feel sketchy rather than cruiser.

Sun - I'm back on Aberration tomorrow so wanted to take it easy. I climbed with a very good friend who I hadn't been climbing with for ages. The brain had a real rest from concentrating. I climbed really badly and made stupid mistakes like getting to the belay and realizing that I didn't have a belay device. It was great fun with excellent company. I know that I can be quite grade/performance focused, so today was just fun and relaxing. We shared the crag with some instructors out teaching clients, I was a little embarrassed at just how disorganized we were, and it was good fun laughing about it.
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan. Okay week of training and two days on rock with prospect of another tomorrow. Nice to be back leading at E1 on grit - it was pretty physical so good for the psyche. Onwards and upwards...

M - coaching then 1on2off now on a 7a instead of 6c.
Conditioning.
T - fingerboard. Conditioning.
W - fingerboard. Conditioning.
T - CapPow. Conditioning. Random bouldering on new set.
F - AM new Physio circuits class - the advanced impact one. Basically half an hour of horrible spinning pyramids then circuits of erg/skipping/ladder drills and core. Awesome.
PM fingerboard.
S - AM Boulder Climbing Unit. Very close on a couple of V6-8 circuit. Fingery of course! Campus. Conditioning.
PM - recce Blackwell Dale. 6B to warm up then opened account on Jerry's (thanks Si!) conclusion: nice and fingery. Need more mats.
S - drove to Roaches but no parking so Ramshaw instead. Led VS to warm up then E1 onsight. Burly! But only my second E1 lead on grit so pretty happy as a comeback. Some bouldering.



 planetmarshall 29 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Been a few weeks since I posted, to my shame, but well and truly back in the saddle this week with one of my medium term goals ticked.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Climbing in Snowdonia. Led Cemetery Gates (E1 5b), clean and onsight. In 1 50m pitch. That's the first of my medium term goals, and my first Extreme of the year. Drove to Glencoe
Wed - Climbed Bludgers Revelation (HVS 5a), alternate leads. Got to lead the fantastic flake-crack pitch.
Thu - Climbed The Pause (E1 5b) on the Etive Slabs. Bold. Boldy McBoldface.
Fri - Driving
Sat - Rest
Sun - Strength and Conditioning. Supersets for Hypertrophy
Core warmup
3 Sets
Wide pullups/Box step with barbell
Turkish Getup/Ring dip
Resisted pressups

STG

Next week's goals -

* 4.5 hours of aerobic Z1
* 2 strength & conditioning sessions, 4 sets.
* Go to Fairhead!

MTG

Left shoulder rehab.

Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)

LTG

Recovery of left shoulder injury.

Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly

Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)

Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe

Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)

Learn to ski.

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 20:53
 humptydumpty 29 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for the update, just writing up my week.

Been meaning to ask for a while - what does BHAG stand for?
 humptydumpty 29 May 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Good work on Arch Enemies - sounds very close. F8a can't feel too far away now - have you thought about what routes you want to try?
In reply to humptydumpty:
Big Hairy Audacious Goal

 humptydumpty 29 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:
STGs (last week):
* yoga x2 [FAIL]
* pilates x1 [FAIL]
* try to onsight 6c+ [FAIL]
* onsight Tales of Greek Heroes [FAIL! dogged it]
* get back on clockwork orange [PASS!]
* have a rest day!? [PASS!]

STGs (next week):
* yoga or alternative every weekday
* at least 3 runs

MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs [DONE?]

LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed)
* some stuff unrelated to climbing(!)

BHAG
* F8a in 2017 (Kalymnos, obvs)


M: got on Tales of Greek Heroes. Got confused at the crux and asked for a tight rope - the shame! Yoga cancelled in PM
T: 6b+ onsight; dogged 6c - had a proper go at the crux, but fell off - no shame there 7a redpoint (first go of 2nd session).
W: finally got on some tufas - hard work! maybe the grading isn't so soft around here after all... flashed 2 6bs
T: 100% REST DAY!
F: Back on clockwork orange! Felt harder than before Kalymnos - the broken hold (#29) is definitely troublesome, and need to work out the feet for getting from #47-48.
S: Hangover and sport climbing in a humid forest - terrible combination. Onsighted 3 V+s including a beautiful deidre and a tough offwidth (kneebar!) Also managed to redpoint 6a+ (second go!)!!
S: More rubbish sport climbing - redpoint V+, 6b; dogged 6a, 6b!


After Kalymnos, a harsh welcome back to the real world - where grades are hard, bolting scary and onsighting means more than following a line of chalk up the jugs.

Felt proper wrecked the morning after a few beers - maybe some low-intensity training in that area would help.

I mentioned taking a break from sport climbing after the last couple of months effort. This means easing off on the training for a few weeks and focussing on some personal stuff (and more beer). Also have a trip to North Wales for some easy mountain trad lined up with an old friend, although might be looking for a partner for one day of that - would be great to get on Cenotaph Corner & Cemetery Gates. Hopefully my sport fitness will make up for my trad rustiness! Also working on rope solo technique.
Post edited at 22:40
 humptydumpty 29 May 2016
In reply to Just Tintin:
Ah good, thanks - I'd better make one.
Post edited at 22:39
 AJM 30 May 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:

> finally got on some tufas - hard work! maybe the grading isn't so soft around here after all...

They always feel hard at first - its a total technique game, and it'll come along. Stay sideways, and if you find yourself hanging off the front of a tufa pinching it for all you're worth you should probably be off to the side using it as a layaway
 Si dH 30 May 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:

> Good work on Arch Enemies - sounds very close. F8a can't feel too far away now - have you thought about what routes you want to try?

There aren't any that yet inspire me as much as the things I'm trying at the moment, so I'll see when I get on one. Possible candidates are Powerplant, Unleashing, Free Monster, Call of Nature. Might also try to fit in another month or two's bouldering first though if I do Arch Enemies quickly - I want to keep building strength. All depends on conditions too.
 AJM 30 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:

> AJM - Hope the house move is going well, was the Cobbled Classic this weekend?

Cheers Dan. Yes, it was yesterday, we got great weather for it.

Busy and stressful week doing the last clearing out of the house, just got the inevitable wrangling with the landlord over the deposit to come. Glad it's at least not so much of a time sink any more though.

Didn't do anything midweek. But I got a good weekend in.

Saturday I got out to Beeston Tor in the peak with Ally. Warmed up on The Thorn (HVS 5a) and then did the neighbouring e3 The Beest (E3 6a). Found the move on the first pitch pretty tough, faffed a while before committing to that (on second). Led the second pitch, not sure what grade that is in its own right but probably harder than the E2 at rhoscolyn so upwards progress. Then tried Black Grub (E3 5c) but got bicep cramp which destroyed my composure so I sat on gear. Lowering off I realised I'd had maybe a few hundred ml of water all day, proper numpty error. Doh.

Sunday was the cobbled classic in lovely weather. It covers a load of cobbled hills and roads in the Cheshire countryside, a homage to the Belgian Spring Classics like the Tour of Flanders. There were some tough road climbs on it too though - 2km of height gain and about 104km of distance. I fell off twice, once in the first cobbled hill (technique error, sitting too far back so lost traction in the front wheel) and once on the 45% Corkscrew (started in the wrong gear ie not bottom gear, but probably actually lacking in raw power anyway). Otherwise I was pleased with how I got on and pleased with how I coped with the hills - on average pretty steep compared to last weekend (lots of times it read 15% and above, and north of 20% too). Good prep for the Dragon Tour next weekend.

The coming week is the dragon tour, so fingers crossed for that. Hopefully get back into regular climbing training too.
 Si dH 30 May 2016
In reply to AJM:

I led both pitches on the beast and found p2 harder...certainly worth E3.
 AJM 30 May 2016
In reply to Si dH:

First E3 since Orco in 2014 then I think.

And Facebook reminded me I did my first E4 3 years ago today! All I need to do is go up a grade each trad weekend and I'll be back there before long


 AJM 30 May 2016
In reply to AJM:

> Sunday was the cobbled classic in lovely weather. It covers a load of cobbled hills and roads in the Cheshire countryside, a homage to the Belgian Spring Classics like the Tour of Flanders. There were some tough road climbs on it too though - 2km of height gain and about 104km of distance.

https://www.strava.com/activities/592920667
 Nick Russell 30 May 2016
In reply to Dandan:
> Nick Russell - Thats a lot of fingerboard in a week, especially when interspersed with bouldering! I guess your fingers are tough!

Cheers for the thread Dandan! I should probably explain that I note 'fingerboard' whenever I dedicate some time to hanging off it. None of last week's sessions were particularly long (about 1 hour, including warm-up), or hard. I feel like any time spent hanging from my fingers is better than none.

M - Cheddar, short evening climb. Got on Lost Cause, a nice, lesser-travelled 7a+ (2nd go)
T - 8km run
W - Nothing
T - Avon, Main Wall. Did the Krapp's Last Tape (E3 5b)/Think Pink (E3 6a) link-up, which is awesome! Fell off the hard bit of Think Pink, climbed from the bottom of the pitch clean immediately after. A bit bummed that I'm still falling off E3s, 4 years after cruising my first few. I could blame the heat, or the hangover, but they're poor excuses really.
F - 6km run
S - Llanymynech Quarry. 30 minutes from my parents' house, but I'd never been before. Left the 80m rope in Bristol (punter), so some shenanigans were required to get down on a 60m. Highlight was onsight of Hickory Dickory Dock (7a).
S - Long walk along the front ridge of the Carneddau. A good day out, but left me a bit sunburnt (punter).

STG
  • Get on Sunset Buttress and/or Spacehunter Wall before the summer restrictions. Closed this week - half term.
  • Get back on some trad! Good evening at Avon this week

    MTG
  • Sub-90 in Bristol half in September. Well, I'm actually going for sub 85, but 90 is the obvious milestone and would still be a PB!
  • Start working through my ticklist of E4s. Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Central Wall (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...

    LTG
  • Snowdonia marathon 2017. I'll have to be very quick on the 1st January if I want to get a place
  • Get my act together and organise a trip to Orkney. Summer 2017?

    BHAG
  • The Long Hope Route
  •  mattrm 31 May 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks for putting up the post. Not really, I broke myself, which kind of put paid to anything much the rest of the week.

    The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
    SMART Goals:
    2 core - ish
    1 run - yes
    2 climb - yes

    Weight - 12st 10lbs

    M - Lazy
    T - Indoor routes
    W - Lifting rubble and MTB ride
    T - S - Broken

    On Wednesday I had some time off, so decided to remove all the rubble on my drive. It's a big pile, easily a couple of tonnes. I manage most of it in a day. But I've not done anything like that for a while and I paid for it the next day. One of the lifts involved quite a stretch and it did not do my back good. So I had major DOMS and lots of general aches for the next few days. So I didn't end up doing much. Also the planned climbing on Thursday got cancelled as my mate lost one of his contact lenses. I'm going to focus on getting two climbs in this week regardless. And hopefully not stuffing my back in again. I've got a session planned for Navigation on Wednesday.

    Next week:
    2 climbs
    1 cardion
     hms 31 May 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks for the post, Dan. Endurance is definitely much much better. Not sure about finger strength but probably. Also, whilst I can make zero claim to be a dynamic climber I do think I'm going for things a bit more. Doesn't seem to have made much difference to the grade I can get up indoors though.

    M - cycle commute, fingerboard in evening + shoulder rehab
    T - cycle commute. UCR in evening, 14 routes in pairs with 6 at 7a or above. Didn't get to top of all of them but came within a whisker of lapping 7a.
    W - cycle commute. day from hell at work so evening core sessions got shelved. 3 mile walk + shoulder rehab instead.
    T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, 2 circuits to warm up, 10 circuits 1on/1off (using the 6c+ & 7a), rest then 8min on/4min off x3 on the 6b & 6a circuits.
    F - TCA with D2. retried a bunch of the oranges (V2-V4 with distinct top end loading!). Got 2 more using ideas from D2. Couple more will probably still go. She then revised whilst I thrashed round a few more circuits. Can extremely close to onsighting the 7a+, then went round the 6b+ 1on/1off until I was bored and my calluses started really hurting.
    S - 5 miles walking, weights, shoulder rehab
    S - UCR. Yes I know it was a lovely day, but I couldn't abandon the family for an extended period. So, 13 routes in ~pairs. Got a new high on a very troublesome ex-comp 7a. Then had a dismal go on the 7a+ which had seemed ok the previous week. I was tired and it was hot and sticky so I got nowhere, with bad grace!
    M - Armistice for a quick afternoon play, husband agreed to belay. After a TR refresher/warmup to make sure the key holds were marked and to customise the clipping, had only my second lead attempt on Remembrance (farcically given 7b+ on UKC - it is 7c easily). Got way above the 4th bolt (it only has 4) then messed a thin foot swap which was setting me up for the final hard move. So, so close. Not sure if I will get another try before South Africa but this is definitely going down this summer.

    Just under 5 weeks to SA. Guess the main aim now is not to do anything stupid and get injured!
    OP Dandan 31 May 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks me, as planned I had a more restful week, seemed to do me good as I was feeling pretty worn out and it's only a matter of time before 'worn out' becomes 'broken'.
    This new era of actually listening to my body is paying off so far...

    M: Bodyweight antags; some good handstands

    T: Indoor routes; Aerocap 3x15minutes up to 6b

    W: Not a lot, few handstands.

    T: Indoor routes; 4x4s, this went really well, I managed 4x6c+, 4x7a, 4x7a+, 4x7a! Really pleased with this, the 7a+ felt even more solid than last week and I managed to finish the whole set of 4x4 too, more progress!
    Interestingly I bouldered to warm up and had a quick go on a V6 that I had completed before, I found it really difficult, and couldn't come close to completing it. Just goes to show how concentrating on endurance has affected my power I suppose (despite doing 1-4-7 last week, weirdly). It will be good to get onto a power phase before Kaly in August, providing I can do it whilst avoiding injury.

    F-S-S: Rest and DIY, we went to Portland on Monday but i'll write about that next week.

    The slightly lower key week seems to have been worthwhile, elbows feel good, everything else feels good, I'm keen to get back on it now.

    I do have a question though, my right knee gets sore the day after any heavy use, yesterday involved a lot of rock hopping so today it feels a bit achey and weak when I bend it, for example walking up steps two at a time is uncomfortable. It feels like the ache is on the outsides of the joint, not in the centre of the joint, anyone got any ideas what it is and what to do about it?

    Last weeks STG:
    Go steady, 1x AeroCap session - TICK
    10x10 second free handstands - 6/10

    Next weeks STG:
    3 Climbing sessions -
    10x10 second free handstands -
    Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed -

    MTG: (next couple of months)
    Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
    Get outside a couple of times - 4/2 - hoping to get out next weekend
    Lap 7b four times -


    LTG: (This year)
    Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
    Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
    Get on Daniboy 8a in August
    Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
    Good form front lever for 5 seconds

    BHAG:
    Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...

    Benchmarks:
    *2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
    *Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
    *1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
    *Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
    *Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
    *Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
     Emily 31 May 2016
    In reply to Dandan:
    > Emily - Good to see some goals back up, I heard the UCR setting was off since the takeover, hopefully it will settle down.

    Thanks Dandan. Another somewhat lazy week here.

    Monday - climbing at Cheddar. Didn't feel up to leading, just top-roped: not too much difficulty on a 6a+, then tried a 7a+ for a laugh since Nick had the rope up it anyway. I did get to the top and I think I managed most of the moves, though definitely rested in the middle of some sequences. It was fun, anyway.

    Tuesday - nothing

    Wednesday - nothing

    Thursday - nothing

    Friday - running, 6.2km in 32:48.

    Saturday- attempted climbing at Llanymynech quarry. Gave up in terror at the third bolt on a 5+. Standard.

    Sunday - lovely long North Wales walk round the ridge of the Carnydds, about 20km.

    Short term (May-Jun)
    • do more exercise this week than last week!
      • just about, still didn't do loads this week but it was more than last
    • do something to work on fear because this is driving me insane and ruining my fun, as per usual. Fall practice, static climbing drills, anything?

    Medium term (May, Jun, Jul)
    • maintain weight in 56-58kg range
      • 59.9kg, up slightly from last week. Need to bother paying attention to food again
    • figure out what I want to focus on for cardio fitness now the Bristol 10k is over
    • have another play on Pearl Harbour
    • go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
      • managed this on Monday by resigning myself to top-roping. Unfortunately I think this made things even worse when I next tried to lead because Saturday was a train-wreck attitude-wise
    • have fun on early July holiday (going somewhere in or near the south of France)

    Maybe someday
    • redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
    • redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
    • lead a VS???

    Post edited at 10:10
     Ally Smith 31 May 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Cheers Dan - correct - back to shuffling sideways for a few weeks to try and up my fitness before SA

    Last/Next week’s goals:
    2x rehab sessions
    1x an-cap - fingerboard or either cave? – tick – Raven Tor spanking - repeat
    1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad! – tick - repeat
    2x aero-power – FoC, RP’ing or similar
    2x mental rehearsal of project sequences

    June goals:
    Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to
    Continue to rehab strange finger tweaks
    1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out
    2x week aero-power
    <75kg when in Boven – probably the biggest lever I can pull with only a month to go
    Start to high Break, 8a+
    Link Broken Heart into Almost Familiar, 8a+/b?
    Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
    Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; work in progress


    Week 22:
    M - London – no exercise
    T - London – walked a couple of miles to meeting at Imperial.
    W - Tor; did Weedkiller Extension (f7B) after a couple of goes; this is the living end! Then set about working Ben's Roof (f7C) again. For the first time got a good sequence for the start and linked this as far as the kneebar & crimp combo fairly steadily. Got a good method for the exit, too – crux is now getting out of the kneebar! Few plays on the middle bit of full version of Sympathy in Choice (f8A), but too beaten up to make much of an impression.
    T - Yoga
    F - Nowt – big steak dinner to celebrate my birthday
    S - Beeston with AJM. Two ticks from the “Top 100 limestone routes” ticklist – The Thorn (HVS 5a) and Black Grub (E3 5c) with The Beest (E3 6a) in-between – a fun E3 that I lanked the lower crux on... Good lead from Andy on the second pitch, but he punted the water drinking and cramped up on Black Grub.
    S - Cheshire Cobbled Classic – 104km of deviancy. It was fun up until lunchtime, but by the time we’d gotten to the second sector of hills in Alderley Edge I was suffering badly. Still – I got up the Corkscrew like a BOSS in my big ring (Riding this hill with 53x28 was probably part of the reason my legs died later on! AJM was whinging about doing it in 34x22!) A good lesson in suffering and what happens when you don't do enough specific training!
    M - Lazy day with the lady – fine day out on the coast north of Liverpool. Statues, beaches, picnic, sand dunes and ice cream.
     AJM 31 May 2016
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    > I [earned my hero points by riding] the Corkscrew like a BOSS in my big ring (Riding this hill with 53x28 was probably part of the reason my legs died later on! AJM [failed miserably to make any impression on] it in 34x22!) A good lesson in suffering....

    Fixed that for you.

    I certainly failed miserably on the corkscrew, but given your state by the end I think possibly overall I had the most fun
     Ally Smith 31 May 2016
    In reply to AJM:

    > I certainly failed miserably on the corkscrew, but given your state by the end I think possibly overall I had the most fun

    Quite!
     hokkyokusei 31 May 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    > Morning FitClubbers!

    Thanks for compiling

    > hokkyokusei - Good news on the shin splints, i’d say you are right based on your level of activity!

    m - 18.5k cycling, 2 hrs drills, plyometrics, sprint intervals & core
    t - 10k cycling, 12.8k off road running ~1:34 a bit tired afterwards
    w - 10k cycling
    t - 10k cycling
    f - 10k cycling
    s - 9.5k walk up Pen y gent with my mate and his daughter. He's pretty out of shape which was a shock. When we first started walking together it was the other way around.
    s - Keighley and Worth Valley Ale Train - drinking in the calories ...

    Not much running this week, but that was more to do with working enforced late working than motovation, and I've already completed the first of three races for this week, so not feeling too bad about it. First time I've cycled to work every day for a couple of years, so pleased with that

     Cyan 31 May 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Hi all,
    Apologies for absence, just lost track of how fast last week was going.
    It's been a bit difficult to fit everything in so feeling a bit trashed. Should have more time this week, intending to take things a little easier.

    Mon - Rest.
    Tues - Rest.
    Wedns - Wall. Footless boulder, short boulder session.
    Thurs - Wall. 8 mins on, 8 mins off x3, short boulder.
    Fri - Core, pressups.
    Sat - Wall. Boulder problem doubles.
    Sun - Wall. Mileage, projects, rings, pressups.
    Mon - Rest.
    Tues - Fingerboard.
    Wedns - Wall. Footless boulder, linked boulder problems.
    Thurs - Wall. 8 mins on x1, boulder problem doubles, pullups. Hurting.
    Fri - Rest.
    Sat - Robin Proctor's Scar. Lovely day, easy onsighting up to 6b.
    Sun - Malham. Too tired to make much progress on Tremelo but sorted the stuff at the top that I've been ignoring, so a useful session.

     Cyan 31 May 2016
    In reply to hms:

    > M - Armistice for a quick afternoon play, husband agreed to belay. After a TR refresher/warmup to make sure the key holds were marked and to customise the clipping, had only my second lead attempt on Remembrance (farcically given 7b+ on UKC - it is 7c easily). Got way above the 4th bolt (it only has 4) then messed a thin foot swap which was setting me up for the final hard move. So, so close.

    That's pretty quick progress!
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dan, I wasn't expecting the win but felt good on the day. A solid week this week but I'd still like to mix more bouldering (or weight training) in with the bike plan. A bit at a time, though. Steady progress is still progress and burnout isn't. Resting the finger this week. It didn't feel too bad on Thursday but it's much better today as I write this so I'll try a session again this week and monitor.

    Mon: Rest
    Tue: 20 mile road ride, sweet spots
    Wed: 14 mile micro bursts MTB
    Thu: Indoor bouldering -- Focussed session in the cave and on the woody
    Fri: 18 mile road ride, sweet spots
    Sat: In Wales for mate's birthday doing N Ridge of Tryfan
    Sun: Rest / went to see Hans Zimmer live which was absolutely fantastic

    Aims For This Week:
    Mobility drills, antagonists, stretching most days.
    Climbing or weight training: 2–3x 1/3
    Stick to bike plan TICK!

    STGs (End June 2016):
    Stick to training plan on the bike
    Consistently climb or weight train (2-3 times per week)
    Tick remaining indoor red circuit (V3/4) 4/20 This has been reset now
    Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
    Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (green V5/6) 0/2

    MTGs (before end 2016):
    Complete the Mids XC Series
    Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
    Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
    High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
    Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
    Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
    Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)

    LTGs (before end 2017):
    Boulder 7B

    BHAGs:
    Boulder 8A
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    > S - Cheshire Cobbled Classic – 104km of deviancy...

    Nice one. I've not ridden it myself but I've heard it's a toughie.
     Ian Bell 01 Jun 2016
    In reply to heelhookofglory:

    Hi all

    STG = another 7a+ by end of June. If possible get back to Llanymynech for a day and finish off the 7b by end of June as well.
    MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
    BHAG = 8a by 40

    Mon - 60 mins rings

    Tues - c30 mins fingerboard repeater session (7 on, 3 off), 4x4s, first set 6a then 6b/+ ish after that

    Weds - 60 mins ish strength and conditioning

    Thurs - c30 mins fingerboard max hangs. Feeling a bit broken after 6 days on in a row. Pack for Romania

    Fri - rest / travel

    Sat - Mon Romania. A rather feeble half day on Saturday as everyone was knackered from the travel, good day Sunday and lazy day Monday. We were climbing around a (very) old spa town called Baile Herculane, its a river valley with limestone cliffs along the edge. We had the local guide although god knows how you'd get it normally, luckily my Romanian friends had some local connections. Highlight climbing wise was day 2 when we went to an amazing and massive crag which featured a waterfall in the middle. Lovely long routes and good rock, managed to tick off a 35m 7a+ 2nd go which I was pleased about. Other than that pottered around at a 6a+-6b+ level all 3 days, grades generally felt south of france style (hard) there. Walk ins also long + uphill although pretty. People very friendly and everything is super cheap there. Overall I'm glad I went and had a good time, climbing wasn't generally of the quality of the big name places in spain / france etc but still well worth doing. would make a nice destination if you were doing a euro road trip or similar. It also has the thermal springs which are nice for soaking tired muscles.

    Tues - fly home

     Ian Bell 01 Jun 2016
    In reply to Emily:

    Nick / Emily see you went to Llanymynech, did you like it? A quick UKC stalk revealed you did the long 6b+ Curfew, I thought that one was great albeit a bit run out!
     Nick Russell 01 Jun 2016
    In reply to Ian Bell:

    I really liked it actually, the Grid Iron Wall is pretty awesome! We didn't spend long there, but it's definitely one to go back to, especially when the nesting restrictions are lifted... Are you local to there? I could let you know next time I'm in the area. As I mentioned in my post, it's really close to my parents (Shrewsbury) so surprising I hadn't been before.
     Ian Bell 01 Jun 2016
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Sadly not local at all, I live in West London. Just fancied checking out a different destination. Definitely also want to go back and check out Red wall when the bird ban finishes, will post about it on here when I do on the off chance you're around that weekend as well.
    OP Dandan 03 Jun 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Just checking, shall I do the stats again this week?
     James Moyle 04 Jun 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Struggling to remember everything from last week! There was some fixed gear cycling and a game of rounders but the main event was the Cuillin ridge attempt on Sunday.

    We set off at 3am from Glenbrittle hoping to do it in a day. We got to the top of Gars Bheinn after 2hr45 which was a little ahead of time. All was good up to Sgurr Dubh Mor, where route finding was a wee bit problematic (cloud dropped briefly and reduced visibility to just a few feet which didn't help). TD Gap was dealt with reasonably quickly but then we ended up betwixt and between Alasdair and Thearlaich. As we were losing time, we decided to skip Alasdair and push on. Route finidng issues again - lost another 20 minutes or so trying to find the way across the gap to Kings Chimney. Again, we tried to make up time by taking Collie's ledge (really lovely exposure!).
    By this point my partner, who could have done with being a part of Fitclub for the past few months, was seriously flagging! He was ready to give in but I convinced him we couldn't leave without doing the In Pinn. Unfortunately, my confidence was high and I decided to have a go at the South Crack with minimal gear. This was a mistake! If felt harder than HVD and by the time I was half way up, I was either going to have to put in some monster runouts or back off. I chose the latter! We went up the more conservative, although amazingly exposed East ridge.

    And that was that - 16km and 1700m ascent. I certainly felt that I had more in the tank but I guess I wont know if I would have finished it. It's certainly the case that success relies on being fit, a little luck with the route finding or having recced the route before, and being confident soloing up to Diff with exposure.

    Cheers Dandan82 for the stats
    J

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