UKC

Indoors 7b beta

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 zimpara 29 May 2016
youtube.com/watch?v=185uUUVpQ4g&

Had a few goes on this 7b indoors last week, but the move onto the wall from the overlap is really confusing,
left hand is a bulgey crimp-right hand is a hard tiny crimp both on same level.

Move is to an upside down crimp. Really confused. Any ukc knowledge?
12
 zv 29 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Good effort! Seemed like a really good attempt and a pretty decent route.

Quite hard to try and give beta without having done the route as I might be talking rubbish.

A few ideas:

- Have you tried dropping that left knee before you go with the left hand to the crucial crimp? Every little bit of twist should help you get more weight on your feet and ultimately grab the hold in control.

- What's the next sequence like? Is it possible to go with the right hand onto the upside down crimp where you fell?

Good luck :p
OP zimpara 29 May 2016
In reply to zmv:

You know what, if I get that right crimp, bring left foot up, and go for the upside down crimp with my right, that 'in my mind' may work.

I got the upside down crimp with left after a go, but wrist is crooked and leaves you powerless with nowhere to go.
Thanks for the ideas
cb294 29 May 2016
In reply to zmv:

From what I can see from one brief glimpse at your video I believe you place your body weight to far on the right. Don't pull on the crimp to move upwards, just stand up on the good foot hold and use the crimp solely for balance, trying to have your centre of gravity vertically above the foot (i.e. further left). The crimp may actually be better with a sideways pull, but that is impossible to see from the video. Otherwise you may have to switch feet to get your body weight further left.

Also, don't bounce, just move deliberately and precisely.

CB
OP zimpara 30 May 2016
In reply to cb294:

You're right, my weight is falling rightwards.

Really nice route though, would be terrifying to lead.
Thanks for the tips
 stp 31 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Looks like a classic 'golden rule' move: ie. opposite hand to foot. Once you got the LH upsidedown crimp you need your R foot on to take weight to be in balance for the next move. So swap L foot for outside edge of R foot before trying next hand move. Perhaps?
 galpinos 31 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:

By "upside down crimp" do you mean it's an undercut? It looks a bit like an undercut side pull but you seem to grab the top of it?
 jkarran 31 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Set your rope up so you're not sagging away each time you let go, the easiest way is to lead it keeping the rope short but you can clip your top rope to the 'draw above the crux to similar effect.

This works for static moves, less well for big pops/slaps: Pull on in the position you want to get to, find the most comfortable/stable position on those holds and with a little help from the rope to begin with lower yourself down into the position you're coming from. Learn the path your center of gravity takes between these two positions. Repeat with less rope tension then none then repeat in reverse going up with a bit of rope tension to begin with if needed. Congratulations, you've learned your new move. You may have to shift that comfy finish position again before moving on and if that's the case then there's scope to improve/simplify the overall sequence once you have the individual moves learned but that's a refinement, learn the move first.
jk
 cha1n 31 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Assuming by your username that you're not a native speaker (though realise that could be wrong), just so you know, we call upside down crimps 'undercuts'. That one looks like it could sneak in as a 'sidepull'.

Anyway, it's impossible to give good advice without seeing the holds in better quality, the original sequence looked fine to be honest, maybe try getting a left heel hook to your left hand before reaching for the undercut.

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