UKC

A friend and I have designs on an alpine rock route in June, on which there's a reasonable size snowfield at the start that might be tricky early in the season. So I'm thinking of taking a lightweight axe for that part.

What I'm worried about, because I don't have much snow & ice experience, is what's the safest way to stow the axe for the rock climbing part so it won't impale me if I fall?

In reply to AlanLittle:

Stow it on your rucksack pointy bit facing down just like you would in the winter. Clip it with a karibiner to stop it getting poked out as you climb.

In reply to Lion Bakes:

The bit that's worrying me is that both ends are pointy.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Then you're carrying a javelin not an ice axe...

In reply to AlanLittle:

Give the axe to the porter.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Place the axe diagonally between your rucksack and your back. The adze should curve slightly over your shoulder and the point shouldn't protrude. It's easy to retrieve and easy to stow.
Oh.....and don't fall!!

In reply to AlanLittle:

If it's a short (50cm or less) and lightweight style touring axe, which is what is optimal for these kind of routes, then it's best, and cleanest to put it inside your rucksack, which should be more or less empty once you start climbing the rock.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Surely the only way to carry your axe while rock climbing is to emulate Fred Botterill while he was leading the first ascent of Botterill's Slab on Scafell Crag in 1903 - hold it in your teeth. If you fall off the axe will drop from your mouth as you scream thus ensuring that you are not impaled, this cannot be guaranteed for anyone below you!

In reply to AlanLittle:


I usually attach mine to my sac using the ice axe attachment straps fitted to it?

In reply to AlanLittle:

Assuming that you've attached the axe in the normal way, put the lid of your bag over the end of the axe when you close your bag, with a little padding if the bag is thin. should act as a cushion between you and your jugular!

In reply to AlanLittle:

Buy something like a Simond Fox http://www.decathlon.fr/piolet-fox-carving-id_8091166.html At 43cm they are perfect for putting in your sac.

In reply to Trevor Langhorne:

Exactly, pirate style is the only way to go!

Anyway, the ice axe in your mouth will guarantee that "Take!", "Watch me!", or "Rocks!" will all sound like

"AARRHHHH!!!".

CB

In reply to AlanLittle:

same as you would any other time, vertically down in the side straps, lid over the top if it will go. With a bit of flexing, you can even remove it, without taking the bag off. This way, the top and the bottom of the axe is pretty well covered, so it doesn't get in the way when climbing.

ps. I don't advocate using the normal axe loops on bags, so you get the spike sticking straight up and out from a rucksack, but that is personal preference.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Inside your rucksack is best, right out of the way.

In reply to cb294:

When I do this I use a trained parrot to relay messages to my second.

In reply to AlanLittle:
Give it to the second...

In reply to AlanLittle:

Is this thread for real? Alpinists have been carrying axes on sacs for over 100 years!

In reply to AlanLittle:

It has never occurred to me to worry about this, once the axe is either on the attachment on the outside of my rucksack, or inside the sack.

If it was going to skewer you like this, surely it would also be a danger when walking with it attached to your sack? Don't we all end up slipping in the mud or tripping in the heather, now and then, when carrying an axe on our rucksacks?

Has anyone heard of anyone ever getting hurt by their axe like this?

In reply to skog:




Agreed.

I've climbed thousands of feet of rock with my axes fastened to my sack, and never had any problems or been impailed.

I think this thread is looking for a solution to a problem which doesn't actually exist

In reply to Gone for good:

Ah yes, that's how we used to do it. I lost two axes that way, once on Route Major which wasn't an ideal place to do so, the other on the top of the Nadelhorn when I forgot I'd stowed it after the Lenspitz and took my sack off sitting on the overhanging summit.

In reply to jcw:


Oops!

In reply to AlanLittle:

A wise man once said...

"Don't be a fool, vulcanise your tool"


OK so not originally a comment about ice axes but hey, if you're really worried about being impaled put one of those rubber cover things on it (the ice ace that is).

In reply to AlanLittle:
umm if you need to ask....

But seriously, just slot it between your rucksack and shoulder blade if your on the go.

In reply to Morgan Woods:


Which is just what all the alpine guides have done since time immemorial, well, c. 1860, and I think there have been remarkably few cases of any of them losing their axes.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
You can lose your axe when forgetting about stowing it that way an then take off your pack.

CB

Just saw jcw's post.....

In reply to cb294:


Of course you can.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

And you are right that it normally does not happen. I also always carry my axe like this when I briefly need both hands and don't want to take my rucksack off to properly stow it.

CB

In reply to AlanLittle:
I'll get flamed: obvious answer...

It isn't needed to be answered.

Any of the above plus or minus common sense = should one really be doing and or asking this...

*shell suit on*