UKC

UKC FitClub week 481

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 Dandan 05 Jun 2016
Morning FitClubbers!
Lots of outdoor action last week which is always nice to see, a bit more adverse weather this week just gone but hopefully you all still had a good time of it.

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=642596

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Pysche video for the week: I had a hunt for a motivational video about Muhammad Ali for obvious reasons, but all the videos I found focussed on his pre-fight boasting and ego inflating, which while no doubt useful to a boxer, doesn’t seem so relevant to a climber! Still, RIP Ali.
Any video suggestions welcome.


Last Weeks Posters:

Biscuit - This assessment sounds seriously in-depth! Hope your back is feeling better?
Si dH - Hope you had some nice time away, I shouldn’t think you will drop any grades after 4 pints!
TonyB - Good news on the finger, any good news on Aberration…?
Just Tintin - Well done with the E1, you are really pushing on fast after the leg!
Planetmarshall - More E1’s, good job! And 3 days outside too, i’m not jealous.
Humptydumpty - Would you consider the Kaly trip a success? It certainly looked like you got some good volume in, lots of climbing days!
AJM - Well done with the cobbled classic, and the trad, you’re a real all-rounder!
Nick Russell - An hour is a long time on a fingerboard in my book. I wouldn’t be put out from faling off one route, I still fall off 6c’s when i’ve been onsighting >7a for 5 years…
Mattrm - has the back sorted itself out or is it lingering?
Hms - Very nearly well done on Remembrance, Did you get a chance to get back on it? All that indoor work seems to be yielding good results?
Dandan82 - Don’t slack on those antagonist exercises!
Emily - Sorry to hear the leading is still giving you trouble, I think it’s key to practice leading and falling on familiar territory, dont lead unknown routes, even if it is a 5+!
Ally Smith - Happy Birthday for last week! No mention of injuries, shoulder/fingers feeling good now I hope?
Hokkyokusei - I’ve recently overtaken my climbing partner in terms of fitness levels, it’s a weird moment!
Curious Yellow - Welcome back, it seems you fit a pretty decent chunk of stuff in, a chilled week could be just what you need.
Heelhookofglory - Resting the finger with ‘focussed session in the cave and on the woody’?!
Ian Bell - Good holiday overall? Hard grades in an unfamiliar place are always a bit demotivating but that makes the hard ticks more satisfying!
James Moyle - Sounds like fun was had on the Cuillin Ridge, would you like to have another go at it in the future?

AWOL Tyler, Alexm198, also, what has happened to Joyce? Is he still lurking somewhere?
OP Dandan 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Cheers me, another positive week although somewhat disrupted by the bank holiday and some other bits and bobs. Still, got outside twice!

M: Wallsend North; After some serious navigational errors on my part resulting in an extended, scramble-style walk in, we got down to business. After a couple of warm ups, I tried to get onto To Hungary For Love (8a) one of the very few 8a's on Portland. My logic is that I don't like the style of Fighting Torque at the Cuttings, Breathing Method at the Cuttings is reputedly hard for the grade and the 8a at White Hole is a pain to access. (I think that's all of the 8a's on the island) To Hungary however, is relatively easy to access and always quiet, So if I like the style then it could be a good project. Unfortunately, it was completely caked in dirt and sand. I only got a couple of bolts up so couldn't get a feel for the route at all, I'll need to return with some tools and give it a good clean.
To console myself, i got on Useless Generation (7b) purely because it seemed the right grade for a quick tick, turned out to be a massively enjoyable route! Not really my style, it's very technical with a cool wide double-gaston into tiny crimps and quite an extensive crux section, but I loved it, a real surprise gem. I got it second go.

T: Nowt; I've had a slight belly ache on and off for about a fortnight and rang the doctors for an appointment, got a phone appointment and he seemed to think it was worth going in to the surgery, so I drove back from work (110 miles) for that and back up again the next morning, not ideal. Having blood tests but I don't think it's anything serious.

W: Indoor routes; only two routes left at Warwick, an awkward 7b+ and a bouldery 7c. I got on the 7b+, did it in 1 hang but it's just not very inspiring, so moved to the 7c.
First go I did it in 1 hang, it has 3 bouldery cruxes interspersed with some half decent holds, but keeping enough energy to do the third crux is tricky as there is no full-on shakeout. Second go I got through it clean! It was a bit of a fight but it's done, very different to the endurance based 8a next to it so it's nice to have ticked both different styles. So 1 (rubbish) route left, I really hope there is a re-set soon...

T: Rest; Drive home for a long weekend

F: Rest; Had blood tests (bleugh) and picked up the keys to one of our new flats, this is the start of my pension plan!

S: Winspit; Mrs Dandan had unfinished business with Peppercorn Rate (7a) from last year, Im happy to say she got it clean on toprope today! As we only had one rope which we left on peppercorn for her attempts, I decided to use the other end to go up the route next door, Billy Winspit (7b). It's one of the last remaining routes on the crag that i've not done, mainly because it involves a huge reach in the crux that I couldn't come close to when I tried it several years ago. To be fair it was near my limit grade-wise back then, and I thought i'm bound to have learned something in 6 years so I might as well give it a try. Turns out 6 years of climbing gives you much stronger fingers! All the holds felt bigger, and the reach was a small pop to a deadpoint catch on a bad crozzly crimp, something I obviously had trouble latching before, but felt fine now. The reach was at my absolute limit, second knuckle on my left hand to first knuckle on my right fully straight arms! When I latch the hold I just stop dead, there is no sag through the shoulders, it's really weird. Got it second go on the day, then watched my tall friend Lewis latch the crux crimp static with a bent elbow!
Also ticked Solstice (7b) which I found really intense

S: Going to do bodyweight antagonists today (i've been a bit lax recently) and maybe a play in the boulder shed if I have time.

Last weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions - TICK two outside!
10x10 second free handstands - 0/10 oops
Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed - NOPE

Next weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions -
Get that indoor 7b+ done -
10x10 second free handstands -
Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed -

MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 6/2
Lap 7b four times -


LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds

BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...

Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
 hokkyokusei 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:


> Hokkyokusei - I’ve recently overtaken my climbing partner in terms of fitness levels, it’s a weird moment!

my running partner overtook me a couple of years ago, and I'm not likely to catch him up, either!

m - Ilkley Trail Race 11.2km 1:01:09
t - 10km cycling
w - 10km cycling. 3km run for "Global Running Day".
t - 10km cycling
f - gardening
s - Wharfedale Trail Half Marathon 2:19:56, a new course P.B. for me, though not by much. Beer festival to celebrate in the evening!
s - hangover

Weight 81.6kg, body fat 19.7%.

 AJM 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Hey Dan,

Pretty busy the next few weekends, but I'd be interested to look at Hungary at some point too if you need any company.

You're not down here midweek are you? Was thinking a midweek evening clean might be plausible if you are...
OP Dandan 05 Jun 2016
In reply to AJM:

I'm afraid I'm a midweek Midlander for my sins, I could potentially do a Friday daytime clean but evening is a little trickier, possibly a Thursday evening if I left work early...
 Cyan 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing the stats again DanDan.

Mon: Trollers Gill. Tried Angelic Upstart (7a) - a bit taken aback by how bouldery the start is! Good fun and getting close but ran out of time.
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Rest.
Thurs: Wall. Projects, laps on long boulder problem, rings. Shoulders feeling noticeably stronger and more stable
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Wall. Mileage, projects, triples on long boulder problem - urgh.
Sun: Wall. Mileage, social boulder. Should be doing core but procrastinating currently.

Need a pass next week, in Scotland. Fingers crossed for weather/midgies!


In reply to Dandan:

> Heelhookofglory - Resting the finger with ‘focussed session in the cave and on the woody’?!

Now you come to mention it
 TonyB 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan,
It's been a bit a frustrating week. I had 3 sessions on Aberration. Bank holiday Monday, Saturday and Sunday this week. I was pretty ineffective on Monday, conditions were quite greasy on Saturday and I was a bit frustrated about making virtually no progress. But today I made some pretty good links. I have no idea how close I am, it could go quickly or it could take ages. Either way 8a has been a long term goal. I like the route and am going to stick with it.

The current status is, I can do the first 5 bolts relatively easily, with an ok shake at the fourth clip. I can control my breathing and relax through these moves so that I don't feel too tired. I haven't linked from the ground through the crux (5th-6th bolt). I could do the crux in isolation, but have now made some good links through it from the 4th bolt. I think the problem may be psychological. I am relaxing onto the holds for the first bolts, but then need to bear down pretty hard and I find the transition hard (I can only do it by screaming!) After the crux there is a match that I find hard, a fall offable section on undercuts, a rock over and relatively easy ground. I've made some pretty good links here. I feel if I get through the crux and the match, then I have a fair chance of doing the route. i don't get the crux everytime in isolation, but I'm getting quite good at it. It's really hard to know how far I am from the doing the route.

Also managed two training sessions this week, but was feeling weak and they were both a bit substandard.

The skin is very thin and I'm trying to grow it back. Can't get on Aberration this week, so hopefully should get some decent training done.

 Tyler 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Been AWOL for a couple of weeks partly due to trying to prepare house to sell and also busy with work but mainly because I've been so pee'd off with my climbing. I'm not a good trainer and rely on time on the rock to get me up things. As a result of the above I've not been doing this and it shows. That said in amongst it I got up to do Tophet Wall (HS 4b) over bank holiday which was nice but of no relevance to climbing harder!
M: Depot
T: Depot
W: Yoga
T: Depot, new red set didn't do them all, only tried each once or twice.
F: Rest
S: Easy routes on Strange with Mrs T. Surprisingly 'quiet', unsurprisingly hot. End of day got on Tippler Direct, climbed up to place gear then reversed, then fell off twice and decided to ab and strip. Heat may have been a factor, weakness definitely was - burly and basic.
S: Everyone and his dog was on the route which No More Jumping to Conclusions (7c) finishes up so decided to go and try something else. Got on The Jekyll (7c+) and decided it was too hard so dogged/stick clipped to the top and stripped it. Decided to get on NMJTC after all and contrived to throw myself off various places. Did it on my last go of day, relieved to end my least enjoyable redpoint ever. It should have gone in April 2014, as it is it was my fifth session this year, in total the longest I've ever spent on a 7c.
Post edited at 21:27
 Si dH 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. Bristol was great thanks, just really nice to have a few days with my wife relaxing and not worrying about diet or exercise too much. On the Monday night there was some nice unsual ales available so I had 3 pints!!! Probably won' drink again for a few weeks now...

STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s

MTGs (2016):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

LTG (2017): Either lots of trad, 8a+ or more 7Cs...who knows. See how 2016 goes

M: still away, rest day really. I tried to do some shoulder rehab work but snapped my theraband! Have ordered a new one.
T: got home late afternoon and went out for an evening session at Eastwood. Was tied after late night and drive home, so didn't hold out much hope but went anyway. To my amazement once warmed up I seemed strong and got through to almost the last move, getting my feet across in order to the match the rail at the end. Unfortunately ran out of core and dropped off at the crucial moment. Then proceeded after rests to do exactly the same twice more. As soon as I get can get my feet on properly after that amount of climbing, it will be in the bag I think. I never drop the next move.
W: rest
T: Fingerboard, max hangs. Did 4x10 seconds with +31kg on 18mm edge, 2x10 seconds with +4.5 kg on small 2 finger pocket (middle 2), 2x10 seconds with +0kg on small 2 finger pocket (front 2) then a few one-arm lock-offs on the good BM2000 pockets (5-7 seconds each, with a thumb catch). Have ordered a pulley so I can have a go at dong one arm training properly.
F: rest
S: rest (from climbing training). Charity walk for Breast Cancer Care turned out to be more effort than planned - 10 miles around Chatsworth would normally be easy, but it was in blazing sunshine so pretty hot work (and we were a bit competitive...)
S: Back on Arch Enemies. Didn't do it. Fell off on the hardest of the moves in the final crack, 3 times. On the plus side, consistently made it to the jug in the roof feeling reasonably ok, rather than it feeling desperate just to get there. It's frustrating because no-one else seems to fall off the move I do, and I'm confident that once I get through it, I shouldn't fall off the top. But video analysis of both myself and others shows no key beta I'm missing. Just need to man up a bit more. I belayed my mate on Adjudicator Wall (hard E3 6a) afterwards. He onsighted it which was a great effort in searing heat. I then failed to second the crux, which was a huge comedown since I onsighted that section (falling off higher up near the top) on lead 2 years ago. Heat and tiredness might be an excuse, but not much of one. My route-reading ability has gone to pot.

Injury catalogue: left index finger showing possible slight improvement this last week or so. Not very significant though. Let shoulder no real change but been ok this week.

Weight last Friday night before going away was 11st 1lb, when I got back on Tuesday night it was 11st 2.5lb. Put on a couple of pounds from over-indulgence in Bristol, but it will drop off again fairly soon if I go back to previous diet regime.

Overall a mixed week. Further incremental progress on the two projects and I'm silly close to both of them, but it's disappointing to not have done at least one of them now. Ending like I did on Adjudicator was pathetic, but at least it wasn't something I was super-psyched about.

Si
 humptydumpty 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks, Dan!

STGs (next week):
* yoga or alternative every weekday
* run for 1hr
* two other runs
* climb twice

STGs (last week):
* yoga or alternative every weekday [DONE]
* at least 3 runs [DONE]

MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall [DONE]
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs [DONE?]

LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed)

BHAG
* F8a in 2017 (Kalymnos, obvs)


M: PM: yoga
T: AM run & clockwork orange - working the last 10 moves. New beta making them feel a little more secure, but hard to remember where feet should be - lot's of options, but getting it wrong by a few inches seems to make a massive difference. PM: core
W: tai chi
T: PM run & boulder - ticked clockwork orange! Late night yoga.
F: AM run & yoga; PM long drive
S: walk (2hr/300m) & swim
S: chill/long drive


A relaxing week, although still managed to get my long-term traverse project done. I thought it was 6b before I went to Kaly; now I'd probably guess it's Kaly 7a or Spanish 6b No real climbing planned until a fortnight's time, but hoping to stay in shape for some big routes that weekend.
 mattrm 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
This week:
2 climbs - 1 climb
1 cardio - yes

Weight - 12st 10lbs

M - T - Lazy
W - 4k run
T - Routes at Navigation
F - S - Not much

Got out to climb on the 6c+ at Navigation on Thursday. Otherwise not much. Still glad to finally be getting down to Navigation to get on routes. The session went well, bearing in mind it's technical climbing and I'm too fat. Otherwise, all good. As others always suggest I made a few notes afterwards with some beta. But I could remember a lot of it. I just need to get down the wall a couple of times this week and get a bit lighter/fitter. Hope to get out to Navigation next week as well. Also got a afterwork mtb ride arranged as well. So it's all good.

Next week:
2 climbs
1 cardio
 AJM 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan

> AJM - Well done with the cobbled classic, and the trad, you’re a real all-rounder!

Trying lots of things, not very good at any of them

Milestone this weekend with the Dragon Tour. Aside from that I didn't do much - I hit the fingerboard on Monday and was reminded how weak I have become on small pockets and on back 3 after not doing any 2-finger stuff for ages.

https://www.strava.com/activities/599879204 - Friday, a very nice sunny pleasant ride round the Gower combined with a leg destroying drag up constitution hill to finish - so so steep
https://www.strava.com/activities/599874097 - Saturday, a lovely long never-too-steep climb up Black Mountain, then some lumpy up-and-down before Betws Mountain as the final kicker, with a 17% ramp after a lot of uphill riding to really make you want to cry
https://www.strava.com/activities/599343960 - the Dragon Ride. Bwlch and Rhigos are awesome hills and have fantastic descents (I've got a sustained section of >60kph logged on the second one, which feels pretty swift on a bike). I bailed onto the shorter ride home - my shoe was rubbing, but to be fair when I turned around it also quickly became apparent that my legs had blown up too. Still, given how little training I did I was really chuffed with the first two days and being able to climb Bwlch and Rhigos in good style (keeping spinning away, heart rate never blowing up too badly, etc).

Now, onto some of those climbing STGs and MTGs I've been avoiding these past 2 months whilst ticking the last on my MTG list!

STG - by 14th August
- continue bouldering - have some ideas for evening projects to work on
- at least one more weekend in this period on The Cider Soak (8a) - do all the moves and improve links. <done all the moves and decent links. Need to get back on it really>
- local things to look at - Hall of Mirrors (7c), Nightmare Scenario (7c), maybe Fighting Torque (8a) and Fuel My Fire (8a+), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight - not a peak period so aim is to keep things steady and aim to be hitting peak weight by the end of the period
- lots of trad leading to solid performances at Burren (July) and Wendenstock (August)
- solid indoor base training
- Dragon Tour & Cobbled Classic end of May and start of June <TICK>

MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals. <kerching - house, rides done>

BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)
 Ian Bell 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Hi all

STG = another 7a+ by end of June. If possible get back to Llanymynech for a day and finish off the 7b by end of June as well.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40

A lazy week this week.

Mon / Tues - end of Romania as the last update and yep was a good holiday, had a nice time. Didn't mean to sound down on it, I thought it was a good destination it's just there are prob even better ones in Spain / France.
Thurs / Fri - attempted onsighting at the WW around the 6c+-7b level. Got a 7a+ 2nd go and a good effort on a 7b that would prob go in a couple more attempts. Fingers definitely feel stronger from the fingerboarding.
Sat / Sun - drinking in the sun!

Felt like a needed easy week to refresh body and mind a bit this week, aiming to get back on the training again next week. Off to Gower next weekend so may visit foxhole and have a go at Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove (7b).
 Nick Russell 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
> Nick Russell - An hour is a long time on a fingerboard in my book.

Interesting that you say this. I think it's feels really short, given that the first 20 minutes is very definitely warm-up (get the heart rate up, a few press-ups, pull-ups, easy hangs, etc.) After all that I'm managing typically 9 sets of 6x[7s on/3s off] repeaters. With each set taking a minute, and about 3-4 minutes rest between them, that's about 40 minutes, bringing the total up to around an hour.

It would be interesting to know if others on here consider that 'a long time on a fingerboard' or 'barely getting started'... Either way, I now haven't touched it for a full 2 weeks, so I'll be back to square one again
 hms 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. I won't get back to Armistice Wall for a while now - exams have kicked off for D1 (finals) and D2 (A levels) so I am living on my nerves, feeling very stressed and therefore not in the right place mentally even if I could spare the time. I did pack a lot in this week as SA prep though:

M - reported on last week
T - cycle commute, core & shoulder in evening
W - cycle commute. Planned routes session got dropped due to a migraine. Bodged my way through a fingerboard session instead (7/3/6/3 x 12)
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. 14 routes in pairs. Managed to onsight a new 7a+ to my extreme amazement (suspect it is over-graded but shh, don't tell) then fell off pretty much everything else as it was hot & tiring in there.
F - early trip to TCA. Romped round the new V0-V3 circuit in 20 mins as a warm-up (flashed the lot - don't know where the V3s were!) then started thrashing round circuits to get horribly pumped - which was the idea. Succeeded on this, but then skin gave out utterly. 5 miles walking in afternoon.
S - nursed skin and did very little except some slightly half-hearted gardening. Made a really nice curry though - marinaded stuff properly & everything!
S - Redpoint. Also hot. 14 routes in pairs mainly on their big wall, 7 at 7a & v few tops although I was trying hard. Got frustrated at a 7a where I couldn't do the final move as it was a throw from a poor hand & unhelpful foot to a blob that one has to get the top of. Felt better when a guy who seemed a similar standard to me but with more height also failed umpteen times to do the move. 1/2 dozen auto-belay routes to finish, then home for a 3 mile walk. Shoulder rehab in evening - it isn't hurting currently, so harder to remember to do the rehab.

feeling generally tired & strung out.
Post edited at 09:05
 Nick Russell 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
> Nick Russell - I wouldn’t be put out from falling off one route, I still fall off 6c’s when i’ve been onsighting >7a for 5 years…

Thanks, I'm not too disappointed really, but I do get a bit hung up on 'the onsight' with trad routes. And this was an 'Extreme Rock' route too, so failing on the onsight upsets the peurile ticker in me...

M - Short walk on the Berwyns en route from N Wales to Bristol
T - Bouldering, TCA.
W - 9.5km run
T - Rest (blood donation)
F - 11km run (the day after giving blood: either a terrible idea or a great aerobic workout :p)
S - Bouldering, City Bloc (Leeds)
S - Walk up Pen-y-Ghent

A shame that I didn't manage to do any climbing during a sunny week in June, must try harder. At least I spent plenty of time outside, I suppose. I'm off to the Llanberis tradfest this weekend. Early days yet, but the weather forecast isn't looking promising.
 Ally Smith 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

How come i don't get the "all-rounder" plaudits?!?

Shoulder is getting better very slowly - it still hurts quite a bit at times, but instability seems to be relenting.

Last/Next week’s goals:
2x rehab sessions. Tick - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – sort of tick – trying Bullet felt like an-cap - repeat
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad! – fail - repeat
2x aero-power – FoC, RP’ing or similar – tick – CyL sessions. Do a FoC this week.
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences - fail

June goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to
Continue to rehab strange finger tweaks
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out
2x week aero-power
<75kg when in Boven – probably the biggest lever I can pull with only a month to go
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; work in progress

Complete >3 from the following:
Middle third, 8a
Start to high Break, 8a+
Man with a Gun, 7c+/8a
Bullet, 8a+
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
Waddage, 8b
Link Broken Heart into Almost Familiar, 8a+/b?

Week 23:
M - Lazy day with the lady – fine day out on the coast north of Liverpool. Statues, beaches, picnic, sand dunes and ice cream.
T - CyL – hideous traffic. Only had 2 RP’s on Middle Third (8a). Both ended in the same spot – the roll over at the start of Mr. Skin (f7A+). Re-worked it and found a different foot sequence that let me keep it the hold as a crimp instead of a drag.
W - CyL again – longer session. Went from the start and got to the same bloody move! Jumped back on and went to the end, i.e. “one-hanged” it. Tried middle third again and fell at same move. Worked this section again; combo beta (use heel, but stay crimped, higher foot to exit). Repeated Middle Bit (7c) with beta on lock-down. Then got the ladders out and started looking at high-break...
T - Lunchtime blast on the bike; 30-ish km in an hour. Shoulder rehab, core and antags. Evening wine tasting course – getting very middle class!
F - Nowt. Curry.
S - Another lazy day wandering around ruined abbey followed by BBQ
S - Kilnsey – which f*cktard forgot his rope?!? The Alternative Extra Option (7a+) 7a/+ to warm-up, Bullet (8a+) dogged x3; best go doing some okay links on the lower bit: Man With A Gun (7c+), but Bullet extension boulder feels hard; only did the move once. Failed to OS Seb’s new route, LBW (7b+) to warm-down – over gripping like mad due to the poor rock quality. Press-ups back home.
OP Dandan 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:

> How come i don't get the "all-rounder" plaudits?!?

Jealousy. You're far too good at everything.
 Emily 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
> Emily - Sorry to hear the leading is still giving you trouble, I think it£s key to practice leading and falling on familiar territory, dont lead unknown routes, even if it is a 5+!
Thanks Dandan. Sometimes I find familiar routes worse: I can't even convince myself to have a go on the basis that it might not be too scary, because I already know exactly how scary it is and where I'm going to get stuck! I'm not sure I've ever repeated a route that I had to redpoint because of fear: it feels like the reward is that I don't have to do it again... and outside I don't really onsight things that are actually worthy of a climbing grade. But I could do with at least going to some more familiar venue where the pressure feels lower.

Got ill this week and it was a bit rubbish.

Monday - short walk on the Berwyns. Very low energy, in retrospect I was probably coming down with a cold.

Tuesday - bouldering at TCA, tried to practise climbing exaggeratedly statically. I am very, very, very bad at this. Even relaxed climbing on stuff that's easy for me is all very dynamic - that's what feels flowy and natural. I can't even work out how to do trivially easy moves statically without a huge amount of effort / help.

Wednesday - nothing, ill.

Thursday - nothing, ill.

Friday - nothing, ill.

Saturday - bouldering at City Bloc, Leeds. Not been before, seemed like a nice venue. Very soft grading compared to TCA. Still pretty cold-y.

Sunday - walk round Pen-y-ghent, about 13km. Feeling a bit less gross.

Short term (Jun)
  • do something to work on fear because this is driving me insane and ruining my fun, as per usual. Fall practice, static climbing drills, anything?
    • worked on static climbing a bit this week, didn't tie on for anything so no falling
  • get over cold properly

Medium term (Jun, Jul, Aug)
  • maintain weight in 56-58kg range
    • 59.5kg, down 0.4.
  • figure out what I want to focus on for cardio fitness now the Bristol 10k is over
    • fail so far, haven't done anything remotely structured the last couple of weeks
  • have another play on Pearl Harbour
  • go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
    • no outdoor climbing this week despite sun
  • have fun on early July holiday (going somewhere in or near the south of France)

Maybe someday
  • redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
  • redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
  • lead a VS???

Post edited at 12:44
 Si dH 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Nick Russell:

> It would be interesting to know if others on here consider that 'a long time on a fingerboard' or 'barely getting started'... Either way, I now haven't touched it for a full 2 weeks, so I'll be back to square one again

My max hang sessions take up to 2 hrs, my repeater sessions about 1.5 hrs. First 30 mins is generally progressive warming up and an awful lot of the time is resting (4-5 minutes between 10 second max hangs.)
 Nick Russell 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks, sounds like I'm not too far off what you describe. It does seem like a lot of rest, but I'm aware that's part of it and make sure I do it to the clock so I don't get bored and cut it in half! Maybe less critical for repeaters?
 Si dH 07 Jun 2016
In reply to Nick Russell:

That probably depends what you are trying to train I think - if you do repeaters with less rest the effects will be a bit different.
I have some music on and take my book down to the cellar with me...sometimes read a chapter and find ive over-rested, oops.
OP Dandan 07 Jun 2016
In reply to Nick Russell:

You're probably right, to be fair I've not done repeaters for ages, but I'm sure it took pretty much exactly an hour, even with a warm up, I'm probably just remembering wrong.
Recently I've only been doing the Chris Webb Parsons hangboard sessions which only takes 27 minutes (plus warm up), that's probably thrown me out too.
Si: I'm an advocate of a book to pass the time too, that or a Sudoku...
 biscuit 11 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Cheers again Dan. Looks like you're going really well atm.

Nearly forgot to post. I actually went out climbing this week. Stoney West in the peak. With a friend who climbs low sixes so that's what we did. Was just nice to be back on rock and it all felt fine. Handful of routes in the full sun up to 6b. It was HOT! Nice little crag but a bit chossy in the lower grades.

Not much else during the week other than a bit on wed eve with the squad.

Off to Kilnsey on Monday - fingers crossed the rain stops. First time on the route the idea is to see what I need to train to get up it by end of summer.
OP Dandan 11 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Stats will be mid-late afternoon tomorrow as I'm having a weekend break in the West country, no climbing involved! Did some stand up paddle boarding though which is a lot of fun.
 planetmarshall 11 Jun 2016
In reply to Dandan:
> Planetmarshall - More E1£s, good job! And 3 days outside too, i£m not jealous.

Cheers. I've just finished a contract and I have a few weeks free before starting a new one, so trying to make the most of it.

Mon - Trail Run. 14km/397m. 2h 18m.
Tue - Climbing at AW Sheffield. Up to 6b, 2 attempts at a 6b+ route - should get it next time.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Mostly driving to Cairnryan and then the ferry to Fairhead.
Fri - Climbing at Fairhead. Led P1 of Hell's Kitchen (HVS 5a). Followed Suzana up Railroad (E1 5b).
Sat - Ill.
Sun - Ill.

STG

Glorious weather in Fairhead, and some inspiring climbing from some guy called Honnold ( and some inspiring conditions-independent climbing from a certain Nick Bullock ). I was ill over the weekend unfortunately, but managed to recover a bit for some great climbing before heading home ( will be in week 482 update ).

Last weeks goals -


* 4.5 hours of aerobic Z1 - Failed
* 2 strength & conditioning sessions, 4 sets. - Failed
* Go to Fairhead! - Done!


Next week's goals -

* Climbing at Fairhead. No specific routes in mind.

MTG

Left shoulder rehab.

Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)

LTG

Recovery of left shoulder injury.

Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly

Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)

Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe

Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)

Learn to ski.

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 20:18
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. In haste...

M - bouldering Burbage North.
T - conditioning
W - conditioning/ fingerboard
T - messing around on the wall/conditioning/HIT campus Brookes.
F - AM Physio circuits including lots of box jumping.
PM CapPow / conditioning
S - Boulder Climbing Unit. Conditioning/Campus
S - wildcat multipitch trad. Limestone is so much easier than grit
In reply to Dandan:

Hopefully just sneaking in before the stats come today. Thought I'd already posted but it seems not! Oops.

Another podium this week, really chuffed! A step up from the last race so I reckon a 2nd here is worth more to me than the 1st at the Summer Classic. Nice to be just 8 seconds behind the series consistent winner.

Mon: Rest
Tue: 14 mile sweet spots ride on MTB
Wed: 19 mile MTB race prep
Thu: Rest
Fri: 11 mile MTB opening the legs up for tomorrow
Sat: 2nd place at Midlands XC Regional Champs, really happy with this!!! Ace race, tough course, feeling good!
Sun: Peak scrambling around Kinder: up Nether Red Brook and down Fairbrook. Included some cold water full body dunking, which was rather 'refreshing'!

Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills, antagonists, stretching most days.
Climbing: 2–3x 0/3 None this week, resting finger and race prep.
Stick to bike plan TICK!
Complete and enjoy the Mids XC race on Sat

STGs (End June 2016):
Stick to training plan on the bike
Consistently climb or weight train (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit 0/?
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2

MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Race in the National at Cannock
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)

LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B

BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
 UKB Shark 12 Jun 2016
In reply to Si dH:

> S: Back on Arch Enemies. Didn't do it. Fell off on the hardest of the moves in the final crack, 3 times. On the plus side, consistently made it to the jug in the roof feeling reasonably ok, rather than it feeling desperate just to get there. It's frustrating because no-one else seems to fall off the move I do, and I'm confident that once I get through it, I shouldn't fall off the top. But video analysis of both myself and others shows no key beta I'm missing. Just need to man up a bit more.


Hard luck on ER - I know what that's like. Presumably you have the jam sorted now on Arch Enemies. Here's my old notes in case anything is useful:

At 4th clip (extend it and clip higher once up and on big sidehold) just use pinkie and ring in left pocket and gaston right pocket with right.
- From jam amd jug get RF on big FH on right. Turn into hold. RH over top just above using thumb. LH up to incut edge RF high on big black smear below jug (try to get knee in) LF flagging RH up just below pinching. Push up to gaston. LF up again outside edge on nobble RF out to bridge on one of two holds above gash. RH into undercut. LF splay out to FH in niche. LH (thumb) in mono and go with RH for jug

HTH Simon
 Si dH 12 Jun 2016
In reply to shark:

Thanks Simon.
My foot beta is a bit different from yours but I'm fairly confident it's right for me. I was back on it yesterday and worked out a tactical change mid session that made my last two rp attempts (4th and 5th) much closer - I got through to the gaston whereas previously getting rh to pinch was desperate.
Funnily enough the change was to just keep climbing until the jug, rather than stopping for a shake at the slopey rail just beneath the roof. I thought I was recovering there, but obviously not!
I've got every chance of doing it next session, will be back down the week if the weather isn't terrible.

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