UKC

Coaching

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 KennyG 07 Jun 2016
Morning

So apart from the intro course I did I've never actually been "instructed" on technique and relied on YouTube for basic move guidance.

I'm pleased with my progress so far, working on 6bs having been climbing for around 4 months but I'm wondering how much I would benefit from a couple of coaching sessions - particularly because as a shorty I'm struggling to get past the big moves.

Thoughts and experiences welcomed!
 Sleepy_trucker 08 Jun 2016
In reply to KennyG:

I'm in very much the same boat - except I went to see John Kettle in the lakes a couple of weekends ago.

Hmmm...

When I started out, I was working nights and got the book (and DVD) "the self coached climber" and was going to the local wall during the day several times a week and working on what I'd learned in the book - the dvd gives demo's of the various exercises. It was working well but then I had a while not climbing and now getting back into it.

John's a good coach, known name, easy to get on with and knows his stuff. I paid just shy of £150 for four hours and have seen a marked improvement already so I certainly rate the whole idea of seeing a coach and I'll most likely be back for more.

However, on the day I had a hard time focusing on what I was doing so it's not really all sunk in as well as it could have. I'll persevere for now and john's offered to talk any issues over with me if I need to so no problems there really.

In my opinion, having tried both, I think you'd do well to get the book and really put the hours in with what's in there before you pay for a coach - you may find it gets you to a level you're happy with for considerably less beer tokens.
Andrew Kin 05 Jul 2016
In reply to KennyG:

Hi Ken,

I am a real advocate of coaching. I am starting out climbing myself and once i get past being a fat knacker and some base fitness it will be the first thing i sort out. I have watched hundreds and hundreds of hours of people climbing. My daughter(9yrs old) is a fantastic climber and for the couple of years we bumbled through because she is freakishly strong and flexible. As i didnt climb i used to watch other climbers like a hawk and try to understand what worked and what didnt. This worked for only so long until a coach said one day that at some point she is going to start learning bad habits. It stuck with me and tbh i am so glad i stopped because now it seems that she pics up new skills, new movements and new techniques on a weekly basis. Its different for adults because kids are like sponges and able to soak up this info much quicker, but the principles are still the same.

You mentioned big moves. 6b is usually quite straightforward climb for my daughter but she is a very static type of climber. Dynamic moves are coming gradually but if it can be done with technique and body shape then thats how she will do it. I have lost count of the amount of times i have looked at a problem and cant get my head around it only for the instructor to suggest something and bang, its done. But not only is the climb nailed but she has just logged another technique into her memory bank for future reference.

Most walls have improver classes where you can pay for a block of lessons a bit cheaper. Thats where i would go.

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