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Mont Blanc Conditions

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 GStone 10 Jun 2016
Does anyone know what the conditions are like on the Trois Monts route so far? Has it been done yet this season?

I am heading there in July so curious if we'll get it in nick...
1
 Misha 10 Jun 2016
In reply to GStone:
A month is a long time conditions wise, it will go from late spring to summer over the next few weeks.
Post edited at 13:08
1
Fordster 10 Jun 2016
In reply to Misha:

I'm supposed to going up via trois monts next week. Forecast does not look great, so we shall see. Will let you know....
1
 jh.2545 12 Jun 2016
In reply to GStone:

Going to Chamonix tomorrow, got a few bits planned mid week with Mont Blanc via the gouter route next Saturday/Sunday. Any good info on the conditions? Been gazing at weather reports and webcams.
 kenr 13 Jun 2016

I doubt anyone on this forum is going to provide more accurate info than the link offered above by Mark Haward - (hint: Keep scrolling down until you get to the English-language details).

If you're not sure how to work out the implications of those details, then could post more specific questions here which are based on references to specific details on that.

also ... I think conditions are rather unusual this year just now, so you might want to consider (at least for ascent) the North Ridge of the Dome du Gouter. There's a reason it's called the "royal" route. With favorable snow conditions it's not that difficult.

Ken
Post edited at 15:33
OP GStone 14 Jun 2016
In reply to Mark Haward:

Thanks Mark, that's a great help.

OP GStone 14 Jun 2016
In reply to Fordster:

Thanks Fordster, Good Luck!
OP GStone 14 Jun 2016
In reply to kenr:

That's good info for now. Like Misha says a lot can happen in a month.

Was trying to avoid the crowds of the Gouter but will do whatever is best at the time. Will keep options open.

Thanks chaps
 kenr 15 Jun 2016
In reply to GStone:
> Was trying to avoid the crowds of the Gouter

Yes my reply was to jh.2545, who said that
he was intending to do "the Gouter route" soon.

The "Aiguille du Gouter" and the "North Ridge of Dome du Gouter" are two different routes (which share the same upper section of the Bosses ridge).
My understanding is that the "Aiguille du Gouter" route is far more popular than the "North Ridge" route. And so
when people say "the Gouter route", they usually mean the "Aiguille" route.

By suggesting "North Ridge of Dome du Gouter", my intent was to offer a better alternative (for this year at this time) than the "Aiguille Gouter" route -- which also is likely to be a good way to "escape the crowds" of that route -- except of course on the Bosses ridge.

Of course if you do 3MB, you avoid the crowds on the Bosses ridge also.
Unless you descend some different route which uses the Bosses ridge (something which many parties who ascend 3MB choose to do).

Ken

P.S. My own hope (conditions and weather permitting two or three weeks from now) is to climb up 3MB -- then avoid the Bosses ridge and Aiguille du Gouter by descending the North Face and then the Grands Mulets glacier on _skis_.
Post edited at 03:28
graham F 15 Jun 2016
In reply to kenr:

Knee-deep fresh snow at the Aiguille du Midi yesterday and more forecast today and tomorrow. Currently snow cover from Nid d'Aigle on the way to the Tete Rousse hut.
There's a huge crevasse across the lower Tacul face and a recent serac collapse right of this so this face has changed a lot in the last week. With the fresh snow my guess is it will be a while before the 3MB is viable.
Interesting start to the summer!
 mattbell 15 Jun 2016
In reply to graham F:

Lots of snow around... managed to ski VB on Sunday! (with a bit of a walk out).
 alpinestar_no1 21 Jun 2016
In reply to mattbell:

Today there was a avalance on the Tacul, killing one climber
https://www.chamonet.com/news/avalanche-on-mont-blanc-du-tacul-chamonix-mon...

OP GStone 22 Jun 2016
In reply to alpinestar_no1:

not good...
 Simon4 22 Jun 2016
In reply to alpinestar_no1:

> Today there was a avalance on the Tacul, killing one climber

Not wishing to be flippant about such a matter, but avalanches on Tacul that result in fatalities are pretty much "dog bites man".

IMHO, it is one of the most dangerous voie normales that is widely frequented in the Alps, as is the slope up Maudit of a very similar size and aspect.

 kenr 22 Jun 2016
In reply to Simon4:
Avalanches on Mont Blanc du Tacul or Mont Maudit (both near Mont Blanc) do not just happen randomly. Usually they happen when snow + weather conditions (and recent snow + weather history) have a higher probability of avalanches.

Which I think was frequently true over the past few weeks, so I think this sad report is a useful contribution to this thread about M.B. "conditions".

Ken

 Simon4 23 Jun 2016
In reply to kenr:

> Avalanches on Mont Blanc du Tacul or Mont Maudit (both near Mont Blanc) do not just happen randomly

Unfortunately serac collapses on those faces more or less do just that.

By far the most serious incidents in recent history have been from serac collapses.

OP GStone 23 Jun 2016
In reply to kenr:

I am quite surprised there were people on the Tacul based on the conditions reported at the moment.
 philipjardine 23 Jun 2016
In reply to alpinestar_no1:

very sad to hear it was Russell Braddock who died. I had never climbed with him, but I suspect there are lots of people on this site who have.
 kenr 23 Jun 2016
In reply to Simon4:
> Unfortunately serac collapses on those faces more or less do just that.

Agree that serac falls tend to be more random, difficult to identify an hour or day with lower probability.
But this was an avalanche. Avalanche risk is in addition to serac risk.

> By far the most serious incidents in recent history have been from serac collapses.

well ...
The big accident on Mt Maudit in the past five years (at around this season) was an avalanche.

I do not agree that general random serac risk on some slope means that it's reasonable to ignore specific elevated probability of avalache.

Therefore I do think it's helpful for people to report on avalanche risk here on this forum, especially on a thread about "Conditions".

Ken
 jon 23 Jun 2016
In reply to kenr:

It's fair to say that avalanche risk on Tacul's normal route appears mainly after big storms with lots of snow and wind. Serac falls are not affected by this - nor the time of day as some people believe. However, in the event of these random serac falls, often the snow slope below them will be (over) loaded to such an extent that they can trigger a big slab that, under normal conditions/loading - ie no serac fall on top of them - would be stable and in all probably not avalanche.

Looking at the Aig du Midi webcam it's clear that this latest avalanche was not triggered by a serac, but was a windslab presumably formed by recent bad weather, high on the left side of the face just up and right of the top of the Triangle.
 Simon4 23 Jun 2016
In reply to kenr:

> Therefore I do think it's helpful for people to report on avalanche risk here on this forum, especially on a thread about "Conditions".

> Ken

Not disputing that, or in any way suggesting that the original post was irrelevant. Just entering a caveat about the significance of it.

 glaramara 26 Jun 2016
In reply to GStone:

http://www.chamoniarde.com/?page_id=1863&lang=en

Clearly looking better with 3 monts route done. Anybody been on Kuffner yet? Anybody (who posts here), got any nice updates?

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