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Place-holder; stats promised some time after lunch. I'm off to the crag too...
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally,
Afternoon/Evening FitClubbers!
Sorry for the delay, i’ve been chilling out in the West Country, of course most of that relaxation therapy has been nullified by the 4 hour drive home, but hey ho!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=643102
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Pysche video for the week: Well, it kind of had to didn’t it, if Shauna isn’t an inspiration then I don’t know who is: youtube.com/watch?v=XxZpoF0Bgao&
Last Weeks Posters:
Dandan82 - Stop ignoring your antagonist exercises!
Hokkyokusei - Good mileage and P.B, shin problems a thing of the past?
Curious Yellow - There’s something deeply satisfying about having strong-feeling shoulders
TonyB - Sounds like it is just a matter of time with links like that, a bit of training can’t harm your chances
Tyler - Well done on the 7c! Still annoyed with your climbing?
Si dH - I hope you’ve not let Adjudicator affect your psyche?
Biscuit - This assessment sounds seriously in-depth! Hope your back is feeling better?
Just Tintin - Well done with the E1, you are really pushing on fast after the leg!
Humptydumpty - Well done on clockwork orange! Whats next?
Mattrm - Did you get back to Navigation? I’m always surprised how much i *think* i remember until I return to the wall, I always write it down!
AJM - I’ve been told Nightmare Scenario is v.good and v.flashable…
Ian Bell - How was your trip to the Gower?
Hms - Can’t beat a bit of empathic stress to put you off your rhythm, how are D1 and D2 doing?
Nick Russell - I understand the ticking mentality, the only reason i’m not too bothered about onsighting is because an onsight or a redpoint turns the route name the same colour on the UKC logbook…
Ally Smith - Blimey you have a lot of active projects, do you have trouble keeping them separate in your head? Is it a lot of link-ups over the same territory?
Emily - Have you got rid of that lurgy?
Biscuit - What route are you aiming for at Kilnsey? (sorry if i’ve missed this)
Planetmarshall - Glad the weather was good for you in Fairhead, shame about the lurgy. Did you watch Alex climb anything?
JustTintin - Ever heard of a rest day?!
Heelhookofglory - Another podium, well done! Now go do some climbing!
Cheers Ally,
Afternoon/Evening FitClubbers!
Sorry for the delay, i’ve been chilling out in the West Country, of course most of that relaxation therapy has been nullified by the 4 hour drive home, but hey ho!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=643102
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Pysche video for the week: Well, it kind of had to didn’t it, if Shauna isn’t an inspiration then I don’t know who is: youtube.com/watch?v=XxZpoF0Bgao&
Last Weeks Posters:
Dandan82 - Stop ignoring your antagonist exercises!
Hokkyokusei - Good mileage and P.B, shin problems a thing of the past?
Curious Yellow - There’s something deeply satisfying about having strong-feeling shoulders
TonyB - Sounds like it is just a matter of time with links like that, a bit of training can’t harm your chances
Tyler - Well done on the 7c! Still annoyed with your climbing?
Si dH - I hope you’ve not let Adjudicator affect your psyche?
Biscuit - This assessment sounds seriously in-depth! Hope your back is feeling better?
Just Tintin - Well done with the E1, you are really pushing on fast after the leg!
Humptydumpty - Well done on clockwork orange! Whats next?
Mattrm - Did you get back to Navigation? I’m always surprised how much i *think* i remember until I return to the wall, I always write it down!
AJM - I’ve been told Nightmare Scenario is v.good and v.flashable…
Ian Bell - How was your trip to the Gower?
Hms - Can’t beat a bit of empathic stress to put you off your rhythm, how are D1 and D2 doing?
Nick Russell - I understand the ticking mentality, the only reason i’m not too bothered about onsighting is because an onsight or a redpoint turns the route name the same colour on the UKC logbook…
Ally Smith - Blimey you have a lot of active projects, do you have trouble keeping them separate in your head? Is it a lot of link-ups over the same territory?
Emily - Have you got rid of that lurgy?
Biscuit - What route are you aiming for at Kilnsey? (sorry if i’ve missed this)
Planetmarshall - Glad the weather was good for you in Fairhead, shame about the lurgy. Did you watch Alex climb anything?
JustTintin - Ever heard of a rest day?!
Heelhookofglory - Another podium, well done! Now go do some climbing!
4
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Yeah I belayed my friend on it a while back and it looked possible.....
Mainly a recovery week for me. Only cycled on Friday, and even then my legs weren't back to full gas.
Went to the wall on Wednesday but it was really muggy so I migrated towards the board, which is in an area which at least gets a bit more air movement. Made some progress on my cider soak style problem, millimetrically, and got back on 2 of the problems I'd worked out over the winter - re-progressing, but as yet no tick. Its all in the knack of the timing. Shoulders were sore for a few days after (muscle soreness), which is usually a sign I've not done that sort of thing in a while.
Currently doing a fingerboard session. Focusing in again on the back 3 and 2-finger pocket combos.
Weekend I was over near Glastonbury but my hopes of getting to split rock today were thwarted by muggy weather and on-off heavy showers. Some other time!
Start of a new phase for me now - have a plan from Tom sorted out again, lots of climbing in the calendar and am going to start bringing the weight down again - the post-Bishop diet laziness whilst cycling is now over and I'm going to cut down the cake a bit. Hopefully in Cornwall this weekend, climbing somewhere the weekend after that too and then in Burren a fortnight after that for 5 days.
> AJM - I£ve been told Nightmare Scenario is v.good and v.flashable£
Cheers Dan. Yeah I belayed my friend on it a while back and it looked possible.....
Mainly a recovery week for me. Only cycled on Friday, and even then my legs weren't back to full gas.
Went to the wall on Wednesday but it was really muggy so I migrated towards the board, which is in an area which at least gets a bit more air movement. Made some progress on my cider soak style problem, millimetrically, and got back on 2 of the problems I'd worked out over the winter - re-progressing, but as yet no tick. Its all in the knack of the timing. Shoulders were sore for a few days after (muscle soreness), which is usually a sign I've not done that sort of thing in a while.
Currently doing a fingerboard session. Focusing in again on the back 3 and 2-finger pocket combos.
Weekend I was over near Glastonbury but my hopes of getting to split rock today were thwarted by muggy weather and on-off heavy showers. Some other time!
Start of a new phase for me now - have a plan from Tom sorted out again, lots of climbing in the calendar and am going to start bringing the weight down again - the post-Bishop diet laziness whilst cycling is now over and I'm going to cut down the cake a bit. Hopefully in Cornwall this weekend, climbing somewhere the weekend after that too and then in Burren a fortnight after that for 5 days.
Post edited at 20:51
2
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing the stats Dan. I was pretty de-psyched mid week by combination of adjudicator performance, Tuesday night performance (see below) and eating a lot on a work conference rather than training, but had a mini breakthrough on arch enemies yesterday and feeling more psyched again now. Got the week off work and a bit gutted about the shit weather forecast but can't be helped.
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
MTGs (2016):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
LTG (2017): Either lots of trad, 8a+ or more 7Cs...who knows. See how 2016 goes
M: rest
T: after work session at Rubicon. Climbed llike shit, wanted to try Kudos Traverse and Bigger Splash Direct Kneeling, but couldn't even repeat Bigger Tail. Did manage to do A Bigger Prize (f6C+) but that's very overgraded. I was pretty pissed by this, but it was super hot and humid (25 degs) and in retrospect this was themain reason.
W/T: 2 days in London for combined work conference and wedding anniversary evening meal out.
F: nothing
S: Back on Arch Enemies. Again, didn't do it but feel good on two fronts: (1) made a tactical breakthrough for my last 2 attempts that made it definitely easier (got through to the last 2 moves where I didn't think I would fall from, so very close now), (2) I did a warm-up go and 5 good RP attempts on top of that which suggests stamina over the day is good. Interestingly, the breakthrough was to simply completely ignore the shakeout below the roof (where previously I had been stopping for around 60-90 seconds) and just keep climbing straight through. It a big difference.
It also helped that my climbing partner for the day climbed 8b+ last year but didnt manage AE in a session, and told me how he has taken loads of sessions on some things around the Peak... it made me realise that failing again on session 4 is really not that bad. Did a good shoulder rehab session afterwards.
S: rest.
Injury catalogue: left index finger showing another slight improvement this last week or so. Left shoulder no real change but been ok this week.
Weight last Friday night before going away was 11st 1lb.
Objectively a poor week but I'm feeling more psyched again after yesterday and back down another lb this week as well. If only weather and partners work out the coming week could be really good...fingers are heavily crossed!
Si
Thanks for doing the stats Dan. I was pretty de-psyched mid week by combination of adjudicator performance, Tuesday night performance (see below) and eating a lot on a work conference rather than training, but had a mini breakthrough on arch enemies yesterday and feeling more psyched again now. Got the week off work and a bit gutted about the shit weather forecast but can't be helped.
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
MTGs (2016):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
LTG (2017): Either lots of trad, 8a+ or more 7Cs...who knows. See how 2016 goes
M: rest
T: after work session at Rubicon. Climbed llike shit, wanted to try Kudos Traverse and Bigger Splash Direct Kneeling, but couldn't even repeat Bigger Tail. Did manage to do A Bigger Prize (f6C+) but that's very overgraded. I was pretty pissed by this, but it was super hot and humid (25 degs) and in retrospect this was themain reason.
W/T: 2 days in London for combined work conference and wedding anniversary evening meal out.
F: nothing
S: Back on Arch Enemies. Again, didn't do it but feel good on two fronts: (1) made a tactical breakthrough for my last 2 attempts that made it definitely easier (got through to the last 2 moves where I didn't think I would fall from, so very close now), (2) I did a warm-up go and 5 good RP attempts on top of that which suggests stamina over the day is good. Interestingly, the breakthrough was to simply completely ignore the shakeout below the roof (where previously I had been stopping for around 60-90 seconds) and just keep climbing straight through. It a big difference.
It also helped that my climbing partner for the day climbed 8b+ last year but didnt manage AE in a session, and told me how he has taken loads of sessions on some things around the Peak... it made me realise that failing again on session 4 is really not that bad. Did a good shoulder rehab session afterwards.
S: rest.
Injury catalogue: left index finger showing another slight improvement this last week or so. Left shoulder no real change but been ok this week.
Weight last Friday night before going away was 11st 1lb.
Objectively a poor week but I'm feeling more psyched again after yesterday and back down another lb this week as well. If only weather and partners work out the coming week could be really good...fingers are heavily crossed!
Si
Post edited at 21:55
2
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan. Just about - it was surprisingly persistent! I feel fine now but still coughing a little bit. I also happened to take your advice and go climbing somewhere familiar this week and it was a lot more fun.
Monday - nothing.
Tuesday - nothing.
Wednesday - climbing at Brean. Worked on Pearl Harbour some more. I think I have a place to clip in the groove now, and sort-of know what to do with my feet. Didn't freak out (and took a small fall above a bolt), until I went for a last go up, felt tired and somehow everything had gone greasy and slippy. Backed off the second clip and Nick had to take it down for me.
Thursday - nothing.
Friday - short run, 4.2km in 24:48. Still not breathing quite right from stupid cold, this was exhausting!
Saturday - bouldering at TCA, went round all the greens (mostly done before) and reds (V0-2, flashed everything). Must be an easy red set as generally I flash V2 only unreliably.
Sunday - about 30 minutes of kettlebells/core stuff.
Short term (Jun)
Medium term (Jun, Jul, Aug)
Maybe someday
> Emily - Have you got rid of that lurgy?
Thanks Dandan. Just about - it was surprisingly persistent! I feel fine now but still coughing a little bit. I also happened to take your advice and go climbing somewhere familiar this week and it was a lot more fun.
Monday - nothing.
Tuesday - nothing.
Wednesday - climbing at Brean. Worked on Pearl Harbour some more. I think I have a place to clip in the groove now, and sort-of know what to do with my feet. Didn't freak out (and took a small fall above a bolt), until I went for a last go up, felt tired and somehow everything had gone greasy and slippy. Backed off the second clip and Nick had to take it down for me.
Thursday - nothing.
Friday - short run, 4.2km in 24:48. Still not breathing quite right from stupid cold, this was exhausting!
Saturday - bouldering at TCA, went round all the greens (mostly done before) and reds (V0-2, flashed everything). Must be an easy red set as generally I flash V2 only unreliably.
Sunday - about 30 minutes of kettlebells/core stuff.
Short term (Jun)
- do something to work on fear because this is driving me insane and ruining my fun, as per usual. Fall practice, static climbing drills, anything?
- fell off at least once outdoors, did not freak out climbing above bolts. Good
- get over cold properly
- just about! This has taken forever!
Medium term (Jun, Jul, Aug)
- maintain weight in 56-58kg range
- 59.3kg, down 0.2
- figure out what I want to focus on for cardio fitness now the Bristol 10k is over
- still failing at this, enjoying the lack of impetus to go for a run really
- have another play on Pearl Harbour
- yes, did that this week. I am enjoying working on this despite (perhaps because of) my assumption that I will never be good enough to string it all together and would like to go back to it again
- go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
- yes, only once but practically full marks for attitude
- have fun on early July holiday (going somewhere in or near the south of France)
Maybe someday
- redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
- redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS???
Post edited at 07:38
1
In reply to Dandan:
Good morning! ... and thanks for compiling the stats
Shins are in top condition at present
m - ~24km cycling. 30 mins running intervals. 1hr30m drills & plyo.
t - 10km cycling
w - 10km cycling
t -
f -
s - packing
s - visting my Dad as I'm going to be away for his birthday and father's day.
Weight 81.5, Body fat 19.6%.
Last week I've been mostly trying to pack but stressing about finishing things off at work. I'm off to Peru on Wednesday for a month! Two weeks trekking and climbing Urus & Ishinka. A few days rest in Hiarez and then back to the mountains for more mountaineering. Possible climbs are Pisco, Chopicalqui & Yanaphaqcha. I'm feeling healthy, fit and motivated, so if I acclimatise OK and the weather is good we could bag them all
> Afternoon/Evening FitClubbers!
Good morning! ... and thanks for compiling the stats
> Hokkyokusei - Good mileage and P.B, shin problems a thing of the past?
Shins are in top condition at present
m - ~24km cycling. 30 mins running intervals. 1hr30m drills & plyo.
t - 10km cycling
w - 10km cycling
t -
f -
s - packing
s - visting my Dad as I'm going to be away for his birthday and father's day.
Weight 81.5, Body fat 19.6%.
Last week I've been mostly trying to pack but stressing about finishing things off at work. I'm off to Peru on Wednesday for a month! Two weeks trekking and climbing Urus & Ishinka. A few days rest in Hiarez and then back to the mountains for more mountaineering. Possible climbs are Pisco, Chopicalqui & Yanaphaqcha. I'm feeling healthy, fit and motivated, so if I acclimatise OK and the weather is good we could bag them all
Post edited at 08:31
In reply to Dandan:
STG = another 7a+ by end of June. If possible get back to Llanymynech for a day and finish off the 7b by end of June as well.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40
M - 90 mins strength and conditioning
T - c60 mins (incl warm up) weighted 10 sec max hangs on fingerboard
W - 60 mins TRX rings
T - bouldering at WW. Did a load of V2-V4 routes and then attempted the link ups they have set in the Fridge. Managed the easiest (V5 although prob overgraded) which I've never actually managed before so OK session.
S - Gower. Very wet in the am but brightened up. Went to Foxhole. Tried starting Pioneers but it was wet so gave up, head didn't really seem to be in it today. Fell off on the last hard move of Marmalade Skies (7a) 3rd RP. Annoying to drop it but also I tried at a year ago and couldn't do the crux even on TR so progress.
S - Gower, wet again. Went for a walk to Pwlldu Bay which was very pretty. Checked out the climbing en route, covered in mud. Looked like it would be decent if clean.
Bit of a frustrating few weeks with training, not getting in as much as I'd like with various reasons. This week is also likely to be a bit light with work / fathers day weekend.
STG = another 7a+ by end of June. If possible get back to Llanymynech for a day and finish off the 7b by end of June as well.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40
M - 90 mins strength and conditioning
T - c60 mins (incl warm up) weighted 10 sec max hangs on fingerboard
W - 60 mins TRX rings
T - bouldering at WW. Did a load of V2-V4 routes and then attempted the link ups they have set in the Fridge. Managed the easiest (V5 although prob overgraded) which I've never actually managed before so OK session.
S - Gower. Very wet in the am but brightened up. Went to Foxhole. Tried starting Pioneers but it was wet so gave up, head didn't really seem to be in it today. Fell off on the last hard move of Marmalade Skies (7a) 3rd RP. Annoying to drop it but also I tried at a year ago and couldn't do the crux even on TR so progress.
S - Gower, wet again. Went for a walk to Pwlldu Bay which was very pretty. Checked out the climbing en route, covered in mud. Looked like it would be decent if clean.
Bit of a frustrating few weeks with training, not getting in as much as I'd like with various reasons. This week is also likely to be a bit light with work / fathers day weekend.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Hi Dan - cheers for the stats. My goals are based around 3 different crags, with each having significant overlap with the other at the same crag. More bang for yer buck, innit?
Last/Next week’s goals:
2x rehab sessions. Tick - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – sort of tick – Thursday boulder left me distinctly powered out - repeat
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad! – tick - repeat
2x aero-power – FoC, RP’ing or similar – tick – Do aero-power taper test via FoC this week.
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – once only and not with the focus I had for Baba O’Riley – repeat/get better
June goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to
Continue to rehab strange finger tweaks
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out
2x week aero-power
<75kg when in Boven – probably the biggest lever I can pull with only a month to go (75.9kg)
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; work in progress
Complete >3 from the following:
Middle third, 8a – bypassed/ticked on the way to;
Start to high Break, 8a+ - tick
Man with a Gun, 7c+/8a
Bullet, 8a+
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
Waddage, 8b
Link Broken Heart into Almost Familiar, 8a+/b? – scrap this, as it has potential to re-tweak ring finger.
Add High Break to End instead, 7c+/8a?
Week 24:
M - 5x10 bottom pulls. 5x10 fingerboard pull-ups. 10x10 various press-ups. 6x20 sit-ups. 120s on/90s off FoC aero-cap/power transition: Failed 15s short on last set of 6.
T - 25km biking on an empty stomach – weight loss strategy begins! Yoga in the evening was a bit easy; Thursday class much harder.
W - CyL. Warmed-up, including doing Mr Skin (crux of traverse) a couple of times. Set off from the beginning and was surprisingly pumped after the 7b/+ start. Recovered, smashed on to wobbly block at a slightly more controlled pace than previously – recovered at wobbly block and felt the best I’ve ever done leaving here. Finally made it through the cross over from the start (f8a apparently!) and got into my inverted bat-hang semi-rest. Needless to say, I smashed on, missed out Adam’s kneebar rest (damp) and trundled on to High-break De-pumped, then had a boulder around Bend, doing drop down from high-break for first time.
T - Bailed from a scorchio tor to Blackwell Dale. Still and humid. Sketched around for ages until arriving at a method for Ovine (f7B) that didn’t involve lefthand lunges. Other stuff a bit damp, so went to Roadside and did Red or Dead (f7A+) and Jerry's Traverse (f7A+). Failed on the reverse by headtorch and ring finger felt funny so went home.
F - Lots of press-ups. 2x 5min core routines. Shoulder rehab.
S - Nowt. Enjoyable civilian duties.
S - Morning hit at CyL. Worked various bits of Bend to the End (7b+), but fell off first RP attempt pumped silly. Second go climbed much faster, and despite the elbow out scenes -https://www.instagram.com/p/BGjfuIuxK0C/ - got to the end successfully. Did Bend to corner twice quickly whilst pumped to firm up the engrams. Afternoon – 33km flat in 90min with the lady. Super home cooked curry feast.
Shoulder slightly grumpy this morning from hanging straight armed while recovering on Bend to End RPs.
Hi Dan - cheers for the stats. My goals are based around 3 different crags, with each having significant overlap with the other at the same crag. More bang for yer buck, innit?
Last/Next week’s goals:
2x rehab sessions. Tick - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – sort of tick – Thursday boulder left me distinctly powered out - repeat
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad! – tick - repeat
2x aero-power – FoC, RP’ing or similar – tick – Do aero-power taper test via FoC this week.
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – once only and not with the focus I had for Baba O’Riley – repeat/get better
June goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to
Continue to rehab strange finger tweaks
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out
2x week aero-power
<75kg when in Boven – probably the biggest lever I can pull with only a month to go (75.9kg)
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; work in progress
Complete >3 from the following:
Middle third, 8a – bypassed/ticked on the way to;
Start to high Break, 8a+ - tick
Man with a Gun, 7c+/8a
Bullet, 8a+
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
Waddage, 8b
Link Broken Heart into Almost Familiar, 8a+/b? – scrap this, as it has potential to re-tweak ring finger.
Add High Break to End instead, 7c+/8a?
Week 24:
M - 5x10 bottom pulls. 5x10 fingerboard pull-ups. 10x10 various press-ups. 6x20 sit-ups. 120s on/90s off FoC aero-cap/power transition: Failed 15s short on last set of 6.
T - 25km biking on an empty stomach – weight loss strategy begins! Yoga in the evening was a bit easy; Thursday class much harder.
W - CyL. Warmed-up, including doing Mr Skin (crux of traverse) a couple of times. Set off from the beginning and was surprisingly pumped after the 7b/+ start. Recovered, smashed on to wobbly block at a slightly more controlled pace than previously – recovered at wobbly block and felt the best I’ve ever done leaving here. Finally made it through the cross over from the start (f8a apparently!) and got into my inverted bat-hang semi-rest. Needless to say, I smashed on, missed out Adam’s kneebar rest (damp) and trundled on to High-break De-pumped, then had a boulder around Bend, doing drop down from high-break for first time.
T - Bailed from a scorchio tor to Blackwell Dale. Still and humid. Sketched around for ages until arriving at a method for Ovine (f7B) that didn’t involve lefthand lunges. Other stuff a bit damp, so went to Roadside and did Red or Dead (f7A+) and Jerry's Traverse (f7A+). Failed on the reverse by headtorch and ring finger felt funny so went home.
F - Lots of press-ups. 2x 5min core routines. Shoulder rehab.
S - Nowt. Enjoyable civilian duties.
S - Morning hit at CyL. Worked various bits of Bend to the End (7b+), but fell off first RP attempt pumped silly. Second go climbed much faster, and despite the elbow out scenes -https://www.instagram.com/p/BGjfuIuxK0C/ - got to the end successfully. Did Bend to corner twice quickly whilst pumped to firm up the engrams. Afternoon – 33km flat in 90min with the lady. Super home cooked curry feast.
Shoulder slightly grumpy this morning from hanging straight armed while recovering on Bend to End RPs.
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Dan. D1 is almost done, D2 has just started. Massively stressed out & sleeping very badly because of it. Managed to squeeze in a reasonably volume week without exactly hitting and highs. Had planned a core session but heat & stress meant I just couldn't motivate myself to do it.
M - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR for an intense circuits session. 6a 6b 6c+ 7a 6c+ 7a 6b 6a with 1 min rests, then downstairs to the 7b circuit, moves 10-38 6 times (can't start at 1 cos it is a stupid horizontal roof section, which is what knackered my shoulder in the first place), then back upstairs to repeat those 8. Cycled home very slowly.
T - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab, weights.
W - cycle commute. Fingerboard in evening, 7/3/6/3 x12 then 10/3/4/3 x4.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening, 14 routes. Tried to lap the 7a+ but powered out above the crux 2nd time. Tried a new 7b and couldn't get off the floor - huge chuck off the deck to a crimp anyone?! Dogged up something else to the 2nd clip. From here the 7b is hard & techy but doable with practise.
F - TCA. Warmed up more carefully to preserve skin then circuits, lots of them, keeping grade & pump level up. Skin & stamina expired at about the same time. 3 mile walk in afternoon.
S - 5 miles walking.
S - Redpoint comp wall. Very hot & sticky. 12 routes in ~pairs then 6 on the autobelay to finish. Good goes on a 7b but 2 moves need sorting. The Bristol hard crew then arrived and proceeded to waft up virtually eveything on the wall which was a tiny bit galling!
Thanks Dan. D1 is almost done, D2 has just started. Massively stressed out & sleeping very badly because of it. Managed to squeeze in a reasonably volume week without exactly hitting and highs. Had planned a core session but heat & stress meant I just couldn't motivate myself to do it.
M - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR for an intense circuits session. 6a 6b 6c+ 7a 6c+ 7a 6b 6a with 1 min rests, then downstairs to the 7b circuit, moves 10-38 6 times (can't start at 1 cos it is a stupid horizontal roof section, which is what knackered my shoulder in the first place), then back upstairs to repeat those 8. Cycled home very slowly.
T - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab, weights.
W - cycle commute. Fingerboard in evening, 7/3/6/3 x12 then 10/3/4/3 x4.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening, 14 routes. Tried to lap the 7a+ but powered out above the crux 2nd time. Tried a new 7b and couldn't get off the floor - huge chuck off the deck to a crimp anyone?! Dogged up something else to the 2nd clip. From here the 7b is hard & techy but doable with practise.
F - TCA. Warmed up more carefully to preserve skin then circuits, lots of them, keeping grade & pump level up. Skin & stamina expired at about the same time. 3 mile walk in afternoon.
S - 5 miles walking.
S - Redpoint comp wall. Very hot & sticky. 12 routes in ~pairs then 6 on the autobelay to finish. Good goes on a 7b but 2 moves need sorting. The Bristol hard crew then arrived and proceeded to waft up virtually eveything on the wall which was a tiny bit galling!
1
In reply to Dandan:
In reply to Dandan:
STGs (last week):
* yoga or alternative every weekday [TICK!]
* run for 1hr [TICK!]
* two other runs [TICK!]
STGs (next week):
* yoga or alternative 4 times
* run for 1hr
* 2 other runs
* try all the sections of Traverse of the Dogs
* free Punsola-Reniu (6c+)
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall [DONE]
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs [DONE?]
MTGs (end of August):
* get fit for the alps
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed)
BHAG
* F8a in 2017 (Kalymnos, obvs)
M: AM run & climb; PM yoga
T: PM yoga
W: AM run, boulder; PM tai chi
T: AM 75 mins run; PM yoga
F: AM yoga
S: nothing!
S: nothing!
A successful week - shows what I can do if I set my sights low Next on the training wall is probably Traverse of the Dogs, which looks about 100m long. I've not tried all sections of it, so not sure how hard it is.
In reply to Dandan:
STGs (last week):
* yoga or alternative every weekday [TICK!]
* run for 1hr [TICK!]
* two other runs [TICK!]
STGs (next week):
* yoga or alternative 4 times
* run for 1hr
* 2 other runs
* try all the sections of Traverse of the Dogs
* free Punsola-Reniu (6c+)
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall [DONE]
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs [DONE?]
MTGs (end of August):
* get fit for the alps
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed)
BHAG
* F8a in 2017 (Kalymnos, obvs)
M: AM run & climb; PM yoga
T: PM yoga
W: AM run, boulder; PM tai chi
T: AM 75 mins run; PM yoga
F: AM yoga
S: nothing!
S: nothing!
A successful week - shows what I can do if I set my sights low Next on the training wall is probably Traverse of the Dogs, which looks about 100m long. I've not tried all sections of it, so not sure how hard it is.
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I presume this means you dropped off and depumped rather than did the drop down after completing the high break (as I think this means you've pretty much done it?). Either way excellent progress, not long now weather permitting. I miss being close to CyL
> and trundled on to High-break De-pumped, then had a boulder .
I presume this means you dropped off and depumped rather than did the drop down after completing the high break (as I think this means you've pretty much done it?). Either way excellent progress, not long now weather permitting. I miss being close to CyL
Post edited at 09:49
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan, I'm always annoyed with my climbing!
M: Rest
T: Tropical swamp that was the Depot, it's reached the point where I'm having to take my shirt off and that's not good for anyone. Had the rare pleasure of having someone else on the 30 degree board, and even better didn't embarass myself. Went off to mop up the remaining reds I didn't do last week. Failed! Finished with 2x 10 pull ups as the bar was the only thing I could hold on to.
W: Yoga, got a "good" from the teacher, BHLTG achieved.
T: Back to the swamp, my Tuesday board buddy was back, he was obviously toying with me on Tuesday as I was the same but he was massively better. Went off to mop up the remaining reds.......managed one! Finished with 2x 10 then 9 pull ups.
F: Rest
S: Enjoyed the rare chance to begin a new project (although have been on it a fair bit before). Part dogged, part stick clipped to top then 3 more dogging goes, have a high percentage but burley way to do the crux. Not my style of route so will be happy if I get it done.
S: Back to K, was going to cry off but already committed. Dogged my way up Visitation, then top roped Vissy Vu with one fall. Both of these are contenders for best 7b routes in the UK, but each have a slight flaw (dirty top for Visitation, big runout on VV). Top roped Visitation easily (it's sequence but not hard) and the. Fell off top roping VV again.
Weight is around 10.5 stone but I'm not dieting so that's good, maybe time to start
Cheers Dan, I'm always annoyed with my climbing!
M: Rest
T: Tropical swamp that was the Depot, it's reached the point where I'm having to take my shirt off and that's not good for anyone. Had the rare pleasure of having someone else on the 30 degree board, and even better didn't embarass myself. Went off to mop up the remaining reds I didn't do last week. Failed! Finished with 2x 10 pull ups as the bar was the only thing I could hold on to.
W: Yoga, got a "good" from the teacher, BHLTG achieved.
T: Back to the swamp, my Tuesday board buddy was back, he was obviously toying with me on Tuesday as I was the same but he was massively better. Went off to mop up the remaining reds.......managed one! Finished with 2x 10 then 9 pull ups.
F: Rest
S: Enjoyed the rare chance to begin a new project (although have been on it a fair bit before). Part dogged, part stick clipped to top then 3 more dogging goes, have a high percentage but burley way to do the crux. Not my style of route so will be happy if I get it done.
S: Back to K, was going to cry off but already committed. Dogged my way up Visitation, then top roped Vissy Vu with one fall. Both of these are contenders for best 7b routes in the UK, but each have a slight flaw (dirty top for Visitation, big runout on VV). Top roped Visitation easily (it's sequence but not hard) and the. Fell off top roping VV again.
Weight is around 10.5 stone but I'm not dieting so that's good, maybe time to start
Post edited at 09:49
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, ended up having quite a relaxed week again, I should get the intensity back up but I'm bored senseless of lapping the 6 month old (seriously) routes at Warwick and it's a bit soon to start a bouldery/power phase before Kaly.
M: My memory has failed me but I'm pretty sure I did nothing
T: Indoor Routes; had another look at the last problem I've not done, a 7b+. It has a powerful, throwy snatch out of the second roof with no feet, it's really low percentage which is kind of stupid for an indoor route. I had one go and wasn't vaguely interested in going again, my partner was equally bored of the routes so we went and checked out the new (shock horror) routes in the boulder room. Don't get too excited, they had only reset 1 panel...
W: Cardio circuit and bodyweight antagonists; Not done cardio for ages but it wasn't as horrendous as I had imagined.
T: Indoor Boulder; I intended to do some aero on the circuit panel but the draw of new boulder routes was too strong so we just had a play on those instead, some good routes this time around, some that are hard but definitely workable, usually all the hard routes contain indecipherable stopper moves.
F: Nothing, travelled to Woolacombe, beer was consumed.
S: Stand up Paddle Boarding; was quite fun although it's pretty samey on open water once you've mastered standing up and, er, paddling. Quite picturesque though, trying to surf back in was the most exciting bit to be honest, probably should have tried surfing instead...
S: Travel home
Last weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions - 2/3
Get that indoor 7b+ done - Nope, 'cos it's rubbish
10x10 second free handstands - 3/10
Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed - NOPE
Next weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 6/2
Lap 7b four times -
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
Thanks me, ended up having quite a relaxed week again, I should get the intensity back up but I'm bored senseless of lapping the 6 month old (seriously) routes at Warwick and it's a bit soon to start a bouldery/power phase before Kaly.
M: My memory has failed me but I'm pretty sure I did nothing
T: Indoor Routes; had another look at the last problem I've not done, a 7b+. It has a powerful, throwy snatch out of the second roof with no feet, it's really low percentage which is kind of stupid for an indoor route. I had one go and wasn't vaguely interested in going again, my partner was equally bored of the routes so we went and checked out the new (shock horror) routes in the boulder room. Don't get too excited, they had only reset 1 panel...
W: Cardio circuit and bodyweight antagonists; Not done cardio for ages but it wasn't as horrendous as I had imagined.
T: Indoor Boulder; I intended to do some aero on the circuit panel but the draw of new boulder routes was too strong so we just had a play on those instead, some good routes this time around, some that are hard but definitely workable, usually all the hard routes contain indecipherable stopper moves.
F: Nothing, travelled to Woolacombe, beer was consumed.
S: Stand up Paddle Boarding; was quite fun although it's pretty samey on open water once you've mastered standing up and, er, paddling. Quite picturesque though, trying to surf back in was the most exciting bit to be honest, probably should have tried surfing instead...
S: Travel home
Last weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions - 2/3
Get that indoor 7b+ done - Nope, 'cos it's rubbish
10x10 second free handstands - 3/10
Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed - NOPE
Next weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 6/2
Lap 7b four times -
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
1
In reply to Tyler:
Exactly - the depumping was 20min sat on the bouldering mat heckling The Sausage!
High Break scares me - i need more pads (not my shit old ones) and a spotter to get cruisy up there.
> I presume this means you dropped off and depumped rather than did the drop down after completing the high break...
Exactly - the depumping was 20min sat on the bouldering mat heckling The Sausage!
High Break scares me - i need more pads (not my shit old ones) and a spotter to get cruisy up there.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Dan.
Yep you're right about the climbing! Loads of bike training at the moment and feeling great on two wheels but I'm missing climbing and it's getting me down. I'll have a think and re-focus my objectives to get me back on track.
Mon: 16 mile MTB sweetspot
Tue: 14 mile MTB micro bursts
Wed: Rest
Thu: 16 mile MTB race pace
Fri: Rest
Sat: 14 mile MTB, very wet and riding through floods
Sun: 14 mile MTB trail ride / skills, fun fun fun
Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills, antagonists, stretching most days.
Climbing: 2–3x 0/3 None again, need to refactor this!
Stick to bike plan TICK!
STGs (End June 2016):
Get back climbing again
Consistently climb or weight train (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit 0/?
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Race in the National at Cannock
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a Severe
BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetary Gates
Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
Some classic Alpine routes
Some high altitude peaks
Cheers Dan.
Yep you're right about the climbing! Loads of bike training at the moment and feeling great on two wheels but I'm missing climbing and it's getting me down. I'll have a think and re-focus my objectives to get me back on track.
Mon: 16 mile MTB sweetspot
Tue: 14 mile MTB micro bursts
Wed: Rest
Thu: 16 mile MTB race pace
Fri: Rest
Sat: 14 mile MTB, very wet and riding through floods
Sun: 14 mile MTB trail ride / skills, fun fun fun
Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills, antagonists, stretching most days.
Climbing: 2–3x 0/3 None again, need to refactor this!
Stick to bike plan TICK!
STGs (End June 2016):
Get back climbing again
Consistently climb or weight train (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit 0/?
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Race in the National at Cannock
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a Severe
BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetary Gates
Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
Some classic Alpine routes
Some high altitude peaks
1
In reply to Dandan:
Just missed him soloing The Complete Scream (E8 6b), unfortunately. Great meet, though - highly recommended.
Mon - First day back climbing after lurgy. Led the great Girona (VS 5a), and followed Suzana up the 3 pitches of An Bealach Rúnda (E1 5b) - kind of regret not leading a pitch, though. Crazy positions.
Tue - First poor weather day of the week, even Nick Bullock took the day off.
Wed - Last climbing day. A localized inversion meant I led Burn Up (E1 5a) in the sun while Nick led The Complete Scream (E8 6b) in the clag. Madness.
Thu - Drive home.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - AW Sheffield. No excuses for not geting that 6b+ but chickened out of a clean lead. Need more practice falls.
STG
Last weeks goals -
Climbing at Fairhead. No specific routes in mind. - Done, though lots on the list for next year.
Next week's goals -
Back on the training bandwagon. wet weather week so will be mostly gym work.
* 4.5 hours aerobic Z1 ( probably trail running )
* Bouldering pyramids. Either at Depot or Works
* Practice falls
* Get that 6b+ at AW Sheffield. No excuses now, have done all the moves.
* 2 Strength and Conditioning sessions
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
> Planetmarshall - Glad the weather was good for you in Fairhead, shame about the lurgy. Did you watch Alex climb anything?
Just missed him soloing The Complete Scream (E8 6b), unfortunately. Great meet, though - highly recommended.
Mon - First day back climbing after lurgy. Led the great Girona (VS 5a), and followed Suzana up the 3 pitches of An Bealach Rúnda (E1 5b) - kind of regret not leading a pitch, though. Crazy positions.
Tue - First poor weather day of the week, even Nick Bullock took the day off.
Wed - Last climbing day. A localized inversion meant I led Burn Up (E1 5a) in the sun while Nick led The Complete Scream (E8 6b) in the clag. Madness.
Thu - Drive home.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - AW Sheffield. No excuses for not geting that 6b+ but chickened out of a clean lead. Need more practice falls.
STG
Last weeks goals -
Climbing at Fairhead. No specific routes in mind. - Done, though lots on the list for next year.
Next week's goals -
Back on the training bandwagon. wet weather week so will be mostly gym work.
* 4.5 hours aerobic Z1 ( probably trail running )
* Bouldering pyramids. Either at Depot or Works
* Practice falls
* Get that 6b+ at AW Sheffield. No excuses now, have done all the moves.
* 2 Strength and Conditioning sessions
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
1
In reply to Emily:
I feel your pain, though I have the opposite problem. I'm generally quite a bold climber on trad, and am used to long runouts ( maybe it's the Winter climbing background ), I back off too easy on sport and indoor climbs, though - I think because it's so easy to do so, whereas on trad pushing on is sometimes the safest option.
> do something to work on fear because this is driving me insane and ruining my fun, as per usual. Fall practice, static climbing drills, anything?fell off at least once outdoors, did not freak out climbing above bolts.
I feel your pain, though I have the opposite problem. I'm generally quite a bold climber on trad, and am used to long runouts ( maybe it's the Winter climbing background ), I back off too easy on sport and indoor climbs, though - I think because it's so easy to do so, whereas on trad pushing on is sometimes the safest option.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Yeah, reading your post I was struck by your mention of leading multiple E1s and backing off an indoor 6b+ in the same week. This is really amazing to me - I'm pretty sure I will never be able to go anywhere near an E1 on lead, yet an indoor 6b+ in the right style (ie not on a *@#!& slab) is not too big a deal. Wish we could trade mind-sets for a day, it might really help... (or just render me terrified on stuff I'm usually OK on as well...) Maybe part of the opposite-ness is that you must be a lot more experienced/confident in reading outdoor routes? Outdoors I have a permanent fear that I'm off-route (even on sport) which is at least one thing that doesn't come into it indoors. Good luck figuring it out!
Yeah, reading your post I was struck by your mention of leading multiple E1s and backing off an indoor 6b+ in the same week. This is really amazing to me - I'm pretty sure I will never be able to go anywhere near an E1 on lead, yet an indoor 6b+ in the right style (ie not on a *@#!& slab) is not too big a deal. Wish we could trade mind-sets for a day, it might really help... (or just render me terrified on stuff I'm usually OK on as well...) Maybe part of the opposite-ness is that you must be a lot more experienced/confident in reading outdoor routes? Outdoors I have a permanent fear that I'm off-route (even on sport) which is at least one thing that doesn't come into it indoors. Good luck figuring it out!
Random question to Fit Club. When fingerboarding I'm getting pain in the knuckles from the compression of knuckle / callus on wood, the tendon is fine. Especially if trying 2 finger hangs it's quite painful. Does anyone else get this and if so any magic bullet other than gritting my teeth / not whinging?
In reply to Emily:
There is an article about fear of falling that has just been posted on the trainingbeta website today.
My perspective: the problems in sport and trad are different, usually. On trad the problem is usually that if scared you tense up and your ability gets worse, or that you don't trust your judgement enough to go for something, ie arent sufficiently confident that you won't fall and seriously hurt yourself. For trad climbers on sport or indoors, even though objectively safe, as they aren't used to 'going for it ' when they know there is a high liklihood of falling, they don't like doing it. I used to be in this camp and it's as much about fear of failure as a true fear of falling (and hurting yourself.) For me the solution just turned out to be working things first time up with a clipstick such that once I was on lead properly i knew all the moves already, which helped immensely.
There is an article about fear of falling that has just been posted on the trainingbeta website today.
My perspective: the problems in sport and trad are different, usually. On trad the problem is usually that if scared you tense up and your ability gets worse, or that you don't trust your judgement enough to go for something, ie arent sufficiently confident that you won't fall and seriously hurt yourself. For trad climbers on sport or indoors, even though objectively safe, as they aren't used to 'going for it ' when they know there is a high liklihood of falling, they don't like doing it. I used to be in this camp and it's as much about fear of failure as a true fear of falling (and hurting yourself.) For me the solution just turned out to be working things first time up with a clipstick such that once I was on lead properly i knew all the moves already, which helped immensely.
2
In reply to Ian Bell:
Is your skin very dry between sessions, do you moisturise it? If not, then get some cocoa butter on it after a session and before you go to bed. Otherwise, not sure if it's really bad - just vary your holds a bit, or do fewer/shorter but harder hangs?
Is your skin very dry between sessions, do you moisturise it? If not, then get some cocoa butter on it after a session and before you go to bed. Otherwise, not sure if it's really bad - just vary your holds a bit, or do fewer/shorter but harder hangs?
In reply to Si dH:
Yeah it is pretty dry, maybe that's it. Will try a bit more climbon etc and see if that helps.
Yeah it is pretty dry, maybe that's it. Will try a bit more climbon etc and see if that helps.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the stats Dandan! Yeah, that helps a bit for sport but less so for trad. I rarely treat trad routes as a redpoint project. This weekend was Tradfest in N Wales. Good fun, but weather could have been better...
M - Bouldering, TCA. Agree with hms re: red circuit being nowhere near the advertised V3. Worked out a few more of the oranges (V1-V4) circuit and a couple of problems on the mothership (including 6C flash)
T - Rest
W - 6km run, evening climbing at Brean. Had a couple of goes on Casino Royale (7b+). Got through the dyno first go! but then wrong-handed in the pocket and couldn't correct. Second go was a credible attempt but wasted energy cutting loose above lip.
T - Rest
F - Stopped at Dinbren on the way to Llanberis. A few routes up to E3. Disappointed to find Climb High (7a) (according to my outdated guidebook, the classic E4 of the crag) had been retrobolted
S - Slate. Got a good day in, highlights being Pull My Daisy (E2 5c) and Manatese (E4 6a)
S - Drove around looking for something dry, went back to the slate but rained off (like, really heavy) after one route (Fool's Gold (E1 5c))
STG
Get on Sunset Buttress and/or Spacehunter Wall before the summer restrictions. Still a couple of weeks left...
Get back on some trad! Tradfest was good. Planning to get back to N Wales in 2 weeks.
MTG
Sub-90 in Bristol half in September. One of my friends who beat me in the 10k has just informed me he's entered... better get training!
Start working through my ticklist of E4s. Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Resurrection (E4 6a), Right Wall (E5 6a), ...
LTG
Snowdonia marathon 2017. I'll have to be very quick on the 1st January if I want to get a place
Get my act together and organise a trip to Orkney. Summer 2017?
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
Black Bean Yeah, it's been in the back of my mind since that video of Arnaud Petit, so I might as well put it down here
> Nick Russell - I understand the ticking mentality, the only reason i’m not too bothered about onsighting is because an onsight or a redpoint turns the route name the same colour on the UKC logbook…
Thanks for the stats Dandan! Yeah, that helps a bit for sport but less so for trad. I rarely treat trad routes as a redpoint project. This weekend was Tradfest in N Wales. Good fun, but weather could have been better...
M - Bouldering, TCA. Agree with hms re: red circuit being nowhere near the advertised V3. Worked out a few more of the oranges (V1-V4) circuit and a couple of problems on the mothership (including 6C flash)
T - Rest
W - 6km run, evening climbing at Brean. Had a couple of goes on Casino Royale (7b+). Got through the dyno first go! but then wrong-handed in the pocket and couldn't correct. Second go was a credible attempt but wasted energy cutting loose above lip.
T - Rest
F - Stopped at Dinbren on the way to Llanberis. A few routes up to E3. Disappointed to find Climb High (7a) (according to my outdated guidebook, the classic E4 of the crag) had been retrobolted
S - Slate. Got a good day in, highlights being Pull My Daisy (E2 5c) and Manatese (E4 6a)
S - Drove around looking for something dry, went back to the slate but rained off (like, really heavy) after one route (Fool's Gold (E1 5c))
STG
MTG
LTG
BHAG
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
With or without the trad gear?!
> Black Bean Yeah, it's been in the back of my mind since that video of Arnaud Petit, so I might as well put it down here
With or without the trad gear?!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Good route, I'm told.
> Black Bean Yeah, it's been in the back of my mind since that video of Arnaud Petit, so I might as well put it down here
Good route, I'm told.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. I have heard of a rest day, but was front loading ahead of a couple of bad weeks of life management/work. This is the first and I'm afraid I'll be reporting another one next week
M - coaching then boulder/campus/conditioning Brookes
T - Physio class/conditioning
W - yoga
T - Fingerboard
F - Lead bimble Brookes
S - Fingerboard then working all day
S - meant to take school group on trip to Portland but rain so coached in wall for 3 hours instead then was too tired and bored of wall to do anything myself. Fail.
Thanks Dan. I have heard of a rest day, but was front loading ahead of a couple of bad weeks of life management/work. This is the first and I'm afraid I'll be reporting another one next week
M - coaching then boulder/campus/conditioning Brookes
T - Physio class/conditioning
W - yoga
T - Fingerboard
F - Lead bimble Brookes
S - Fingerboard then working all day
S - meant to take school group on trip to Portland but rain so coached in wall for 3 hours instead then was too tired and bored of wall to do anything myself. Fail.
In reply to Dandan:
Hopefully. It could be tomorrow or it could be 10 sessions.
A mixture of healing skin, childcare and low pysche meant for a poor training week. I better post something, but this week has already been much better and more structured.
Tue and Wed- general bouldering and continuity (felt too hot and pysche too low for structured training)
Thurs and Sunday conditioning
> TonyB - Sounds like it is just a matter of time with links like that, a bit of training can’t harm your chances
Hopefully. It could be tomorrow or it could be 10 sessions.
A mixture of healing skin, childcare and low pysche meant for a poor training week. I better post something, but this week has already been much better and more structured.
Tue and Wed- general bouldering and continuity (felt too hot and pysche too low for structured training)
Thurs and Sunday conditioning
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Dan. Just realised I've somehow got my days/weeks mixed up and what I posted last week should have been in this weeks.
Basically I tried a 4x4 auto belay session on a 6c+. That was going down easy a month or so ago. Different story this time. Very warm and muggy in the wall with the route getting the full sun in parts. The crux is a bloody hard high foot rock over from two slopers and I kept greasing off them.
Not a great session.
This week has been much better though
Cheers Dan. Just realised I've somehow got my days/weeks mixed up and what I posted last week should have been in this weeks.
Basically I tried a 4x4 auto belay session on a 6c+. That was going down easy a month or so ago. Different story this time. Very warm and muggy in the wall with the route getting the full sun in parts. The crux is a bloody hard high foot rock over from two slopers and I kept greasing off them.
Not a great session.
This week has been much better though
In reply to Ally Smith:
Rather late this week. Oops.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
This week:
2 climbs - 1 climb
1 cardio - no
Weight - 12st 12lbs
M - T - Lazy
F - Navigation
S - Rest
S - Digging over garden
Got out to Navigation and got on WFD. It was very close and humid, so pretty awful conditions. Struggled on both of the cruxes. The first one seems achievable. The second is just desperate. Weight has crept up a bit. Just not really feeling the motivation for it really.
Next week:
2 climbs
1 cardio
Rather late this week. Oops.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
This week:
2 climbs - 1 climb
1 cardio - no
Weight - 12st 12lbs
M - T - Lazy
F - Navigation
S - Rest
S - Digging over garden
Got out to Navigation and got on WFD. It was very close and humid, so pretty awful conditions. Struggled on both of the cruxes. The first one seems achievable. The second is just desperate. Weight has crept up a bit. Just not really feeling the motivation for it really.
Next week:
2 climbs
1 cardio
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