In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, I still haven't got back into the swing of full on training, but I'm pretty sure I know why. I've had on-off stomach pain for the last 3 or 4 weeks and it was really starting to worry me, I went into full hypochondriac mode, convinced I was going to die young and leave a beautiful corpse, but after a reassuring chat with the doctor and some blood results showing that there isn't an alien incubating inside me, it turns out I most likely have mild gastritis which seems to be clearing up with Antacids. Phew.
Anyway, that whole debacle was definitely soaking up my motivation so I'm hoping to crack on with a little more joie de vive this week.
M: Indoor boulder; In an attempt to pretend I was training, I had a couple of goes at the 100 move circuit that ascends in difficulty as it goes up, apparently doing 1-100 is equivalent to f7b, but move 92-93 is a complete stopper.
There are now 3 panels of new routes so I had a play with those, flashed everything on one panel V0-V6 which was pleasing. Got a steep V7 and made progress on the V8+ too.
T: Nothing, got stuck at work until 7 due to Midlands traffic chaos
W: Indoor routes; One panel of new routes appeared, but they have replaced 6b+, 7b, 7b+ with 6b, 7a, 7a+, so now there are no routes between 7a+ and 7c, hmm. Tried to repeat the 8a but didn't quite manage it, it doesn't bother me, I've definitely slacked off for a few weeks so I can work on it.
T: Nothing, drove home early for blood test in the morning.
F: DIY club, finally started the hallway wallpapering!
S: Portland, the Cuttings; I got some new beta for
Fighting Torque (8a) so thought I should go and check it out, I've not been on the route in a couple of years. I definitely prefer this new sequence, its more direct as opposed to going up and right which has a part on horrible smeary feet which I really disliked. The right hand version also overlaps holds with the next route over which never really sat right with me. Need a clip stick to work the last of the hard moves, it is a snatch to a small pocket somewhere in a crozzly face so it's pretty tiring to find it when you take a whip every time you have a grab for it. It's a strange route, some people call it soft, some people say it's stiff, but no one can decide if the direct or the right version is the stiff one or the soft one! Maybe it's horses for courses, I'm going to pick the line I like and take 8a for it like everyone else.
Also repeated
Live by the Sword (7a+) twice for Mrs Dandan to have a go, this route took me ages to tick but felt super steady this time, I think it's down to my much improved footwork, the crux holds felt massive as I think I was putting a lot more weight confidently through my feet. A guy even came over as he felt he had to tell me how easy I made it look! We got chatting about other 7's on the island, nice guy.
Without a clip stick, I decided to move on, and gave
Sign of the Vulcan (7b+) another couple of hits, I'm not one to blame conditions but it really was greasy, there was rain in the air most of the day and it was humid, so I greased off a sharp crimp! No cigar but I think it's just a case of hitting it when fresh, the sequence is fine, it's just powerful. I realised I had already done 6a, 7a+, 8a dog (tiring), 7a+ before having two goes at it!
Good day all in, no big ticks but some pleasing progress I think, I'd like to get back to Torque in the next few weeks while it's fresh, just need to find something to keep Mrs Dandan interested, she didn't get on with Live by the Sword.
S: DIY Club, finished the stairs and landing wallpapering!
Last weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions - Tick
10x10 second free handstands - 0/10 rubbish!
Do lap benchmark route in bouldershed - Nope
Next weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
make progress on V8+ problem -
Begin power phase for Kaly -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 7/2
Get back on Fighting Torque -
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between