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Ecrins route suggestions

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 Rick Asher 19 Jun 2016
Hi, I'm heading out in a week for two weeks climbing and an area I'd like to visit but I'm not particularly familiar with is the Ecrins. We'd like to climb both rock routes and classic alpine routes from D to TD. We're really keen on classic alpine routes but not hugely familiar with the high mountains in this area, so any info would be greatly appreciated
 summo 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Jasonic:


yeah, traverse of La Meije or South Pillar on Barre Des Ecrins. I would do the traverse again, not south pillar as the route is long and a great way up, but the rock is less solid. Found lots of loose rock on a traverse along the ridge of tete de la gondoliere too. Aig Dibona is good, but shorter than Meije/Ecrin routes.
 Martin Haworth 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Rick Asher:
Sialouze ArĂȘte traverse, D.
East to West traverse of Barre des Ecrin, D-.
Visits Obligatoire on the Dibona.
Pilier Sud on Barre des Ecrins, TD.
Pente Centrale on the Pelvoux, TD-.
 tjhare1 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Rick Asher:
I'd second the Sialouze suggestion and particularly that of the traverse of the Meije - one of the very best outings at its grade anywhere surely? Some alternatives:

- Barre Noire S pillar - great setting, often good rock, from a bivi, solitude likely (TD - the most serious route on this list, but also the best)
- Anything on the Contreforts des Bans - Pas d'asile pour pazuzu would fit the bill (TD+)
- Voie Kelle on the Pic Sans Nom (D, loooong and with solitude almost guaranteed)
- Mettrier couloir & traverse on the Pelvoux (D - a significant notch easier than the Pente Centrale which shouldn't be taken lightly! Short couloir giving a way to spice up the ordinary traverse)
- Petit Pelvoux S ridge - Rebuffat likens it to the Meije traverse by way of difficulty. A lovely, sunny route offering another alternative to reach the Pelvoux plateau. Descent by the Violettes glacier is fun too and makes it a truly 'complete' outing. (D)
- As a slight outlier, Eperon Renaud on the Tenailles de Montbrison (not alpine, but nonetheless a long(ish), great route on an aesthetic, solid piece of rock) (TD, physical but sunny and fun)
- Vieux Piton & traverse of the Cineastes (TD, but not anything like comparable to other routes on this list - short, escapable, etc.)
Post edited at 09:16
OP Rick Asher 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Rick Asher:

thanks a bunch guys thats a lot of recommendations.
Of the given routes, which are less busy and objectively safer after heavy snowfall?
 Martin Haworth 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Rick Asher:
Where are you going to be based? Some of these routes are a long way apart.
At this time of year I wouldn't expect any of the suggested routes to be very busy, it's a much quieter area than Chamonix.
Cant really comment on the heavy snowfall question, if conditions are poor I would just go multi-pitch cragging.
 Simon4 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Rick Asher:

As a classic Alpine route, how about the North couloir of Les Bans?

Would not normally suggest it much later than end June, but it has been a pretty snowy year this year. Be careful on the traverse to the voie normalle going left at the top of the couloir.

Very impressive gash straight up an imposing Alpine face.

 kenr 21 Jun 2016
Lotsa _snow_ there right now, I hear.

Some alpine rock routes might be tricky with snow on the ledges.

 tjhare1 21 Jun 2016
In reply to Rick Asher:

Only last week were a pair rescued from the S pillar of the Barre des Ecrins because of too much snow... a similar story on Pointe Louise. Of those listed, I'd stay clear of the pillars mentioned on the Ecrins and the Barre Noire, the route on the Sans Nom etc. Essentially, high alpine rock at a decent grade will be miserable at the moment.

Routes on the Dibona should be fine, though you might still need more than a pair of trainers for the descent. Bear in mind also that, as of yesterday or so, the road up the valley towards la Berarde was cut by a rain-induced rockfall. Should be back up and running in a couple of days though.

The Sialouze might be a sensible bet still: it's lower than Ecrins/Pelvoux/Meije, has a simple and safe approach and could be combined with the Mettrier couloir on the Pelvoux very easily. The Cineastes would also be fine.

Another sensible option for a few days would be to go up to the refuge des Bans. From there you could do something on the Contreforts des Bans (e.g. Pazuzu) and then something on the Coste Counier (e.g. Devil by the tail). Low, easy approach, nice hut etc.

If all else fails, it looks like you'll be on lower rock... Ignoring the Ailefroide playground, here is a suggestion: Soleil Glacial on the Sagnette.
 Martin Haworth 21 Jun 2016
In reply to tjhare1: All good advice.
Regarding Soleil Glacial, it is a fantastic route, the approach gully will almost definitely be full of snow and may require an axe and boots/crampons depending how hard the snow is, still should be doable though.

 David Rose 21 Jun 2016
In reply to Rick Asher:
If there is a decent night freeze the routes on the Meije N face may be good. There are several at different standards, approached from the Grave teleferique mid station. The Z couloir is D. You can descend the normal route to the Promontoire hut if you don't fancy the traverse. Also worth considering may be the Tete de L'Etret N couloir, and at a harder grade possibly even Raie des Fesses on the Sans Nom. On the same glacier (Noir) is the much easier Coup de Sabre N Couloir.

As well as the Dibona, from the Soreiller hut there are the Aig. de Soreiller and the Tete Rouget - which get lots of sun and aren't too high, with solid granite.

The Cineastes is rubbish, to be honest. About V diff on loose rock. The Sialouze is much better but NB the main routes face west, so may be snowy.

Also the Tenailles de Montbrison are not much fun, in my experience.
Post edited at 11:21
 tjhare1 22 Jun 2016
In reply to David Rose:

The standard traverse of the Cineastes is, I would agree, 'a bit rubbish'. But, the Vieux Piton followed by the rest of the traverse is good fun and can be done from the valley in a day, making it both good value and good quality. The rock is pretty perfect, where it matters. I second you on the Sialouze being much better though...

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