UKC

Lyon Equipment has announced that top British climber Dave MacLeod is signing as an ambassador for La Sportiva footwear.

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In reply to UKC Gear:

Nice one..

First dibbs on your old Scarpa footwear Dave?

cheers

Gaz

In reply to UKC Gear:

Going from scarpa to sportiva doesn't make much sense. The last is so different one of the two must have fit him terribly. I'm not sure anyone could pay me enough money to wear shoes that didn't fit.

In reply to kipman725:

The two shoes that fit me best are the Scarpa Vapour V and the La Sportiva Otaki.

Oh, and for trad, the Scarpa Force X and the La Sportiva TC Pro.

But a lot of Scarpa and La Sportiva don't fit at all.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Same for me too - Instinct orange and LS Cobras.

In reply to kipman725:

I have a pair of Vapours for indoor use, and Miura lace for outdoor trad. Both fit fine.

And I seriously doubt Dave would wear shoes he wasn't 100% happy with.

In reply to planetmarshall:


And if he's not happy with them you (not you directly obviously as I'm agreeing with you) don't think David won't be able to have an input to the design?

In reply to kipman725:
I think this is a historic stereotype that only applies to a few models. I've certainly switched between the two brands over the years, from Katana Lace-Ups/Genius to Instinct VS/Instinct Lace, and had no problems whatsoever.

I am also confident that Dave, one of the most methodical climbers out there, wouldn't make a decision upon anything other than performance and fit.

In reply to kipman725:


I'd disagree. As others have said, some models from both makers fit me well others don't. Pick wisely based on fit, and comfort and you'll be fine.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Here's Dave's blog post on his move to La Sportiva http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2016/06/new-sponsor-la-sportiva.html

In reply to kipman725:

I wonder if smashing up his ankle has changed his shoe requirements?

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:


He would be very much correct if we were talking about mountaineering boots or approach shoes (and I'm very surprised if MacLeod previously found Scarpa winter boots fitted well given his professed enthusiasm for the Sportiva ones). Probably doesn't apply for their rock shoes however.

In reply to kipman725:

He's only got to wear them for the photos though, he can wear what he likes when he's actually climbing.

In reply to UKC Gear:
I've just gone through a pair of Katanas in 6 weeks. I guess Mr MacLeod climbs a bit more than me, so I reckon he'll need a new pair of LS rock shoes every 8 days. This would be 46 pairs of shoes per year, so this sponsorship deal is worth a fair bit.

Of course, there is a chance he has better footwork than me...

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:


... and money.

He's a pro. This is a business deal. Money is never irrelevant.

In reply to humptydumpty:

Ohh for christ sakes. What is it with the katanas? Mine delaminated after a week.
Really disapointing.

In reply to zimpara:

Seems that the feedback people give for katanas is hit and miss. I've climed on mine 3 days a week for 6 months and they're going strong, miles away from being exhiled to the stink pile.