UKC

Climbing at Polldubh, Glen Nevis on Saterday and wanted a quick finish so only having the Scottish Rock guide went to do "Drizzle" However after leaving the book at the bottom, forgetting most of what it said, and only remembering the words Diedre (which I have no idea what it is) and awkward step I ended up heading off for the 2nd pitch in the wrong direction towards the line of "Fang" Anyway it turned out to be a great line if a little more than HS 4b so I figured it must be in some book!
Here's the description of the route I took from memory!
Start as for "drizzle" and belay of the large pine with the fixed tat!
Directly from the tat trending up and right for around 5m is a small narrow arete with a short steep pull onto a small shelf that has a verticle/slight overhanging wall at the back. Turn the overhang on the right for 2m via a couple of awkward moves, then move up for appox 3- 4m at 5a? to easier ground, Traverse up left for around 3 m to a steep corner quartz crack and ascend this for 3-4m to finish!
So, any ideas what that route is? Also what the heck is a Diedre?

Mark

In reply to pass and peak:

A diedre is usually a corner crack, open book style.

T.

In reply to Pursued by a bear:

(though in some cases there is no crack in the corner - still a diedre)

In reply to Michael Gordon:

I deliberately said 'usually'...

T.

In reply to pass and peak:

I did Drizzle in March and most of what you describe sounds familiar. Vampire alternative finish a possibility too?

In reply to Pursued by a bear:

I know, I was clarifying for the OP

In reply to pass and peak:

Looks like its going to end up being an excuse to buy the new "Highland Outcrops South"

In reply to pass and peak:


Good idea. Note that the start of Vampire needs a clean, if someone is feeling helpful.

In reply to pass and peak:
Climbed something similar last year, had been on a soloing mission all day and had just done the Heatwave/Vampire combo and then had a quick look in the guidebook and saw Drizzle and decided to finish the day on that. Certainly quite hard for 4b and had a few "moments" trying to figure the route out and committing to some of the moves but a well worth route that deserves a bit more attention I thought, although it's a little wet and dirty in places but has good climbing.

I climbed the lower slab (at about 4c?) and then up into the gully and across the wall to the right onto the shelf where I spent a bit of time looking for a way out rightwards but was aware of much harder ground so decided to commit to the vertical wall on good flat, rough holds but with some seepage. Then followed the deidre to the top with a mega jug to finish. Then traversed across left and followed the upper slabs of Vampire, very good and adventurous climbing!