In reply to glaramara:
Hello,
If you walk to the platform that you finish the Cosmiques Arete on, go down the ladder, walk out along the ridge and aim leftwards PAST the top of the mixed climbing, there is a good bolted anchor on the other side of a few big orange boulders. There are actually quite a few anchors here, and if you use the first ones that you find, it has quite an awkward diagonal lean at the start (I'd say about twice as diagonal as the first rappel on the Cosmiques Arete, and nearly three times as leany), but once you are over the lip and free-hanging it's fine. But if you press on and climb over a head-height block, there is a much better anchor directly above the cliff that removes the lean.
Whichever anchor you use, if you have two 60m ropes, you can make it from here to the bottom of the 4c crux section with just one rappel, and I seem to remember seeing other anchors dotted about halfway down as well, but I can't give any exact info for length if you want to split it into two raps. On the way down, you can have a look at three (I think, I've not done this rappel for over two years now) bolted rock routes, for some reason I think they are 6b, 7b, 6b, but I have no idea why because I've never seen a topo for them. On the way back, these can be an exciting alternative finish to the mixed chimney off to the left.
From the bottom of the 4c crux, you can walk past the big gendarme, back along the ridge (maybe about 40m, 50m?) until you get to the top of the South Couloir, which is probably around 180m long, mostly at 40 degrees with a steeper bottleneck in the middle at 45, which may well have rocks exposed. I have no idea if you could rappel past this as I've only ever skied this couloir, but I expect downclimbing it wouldn't provide too many problems. Once at the bottom of the couloir, carry on about your business as you see fit.
Alternatively, and if the day isn't set to be too busy, instead of downclimbing the South Couloir you can reverse the whole route, get to the top of what would be the first rappel, turn around, and do the normal route back to the lift. On quiet days, people run laps of this reverse-and-back as training.
Give me a second, I'll try and dig out some pictures.
Climbing through the rocks to the anchors.
https://altitudinalnoodles.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1060614.jpg
Mid-rap, but from one of the more-awkward anchors that you arrive at first. Best use the last anchor you'd find, directly above the right-hand pillar in the photo.
https://altitudinalnoodles.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1050972.jpg
And finally, a photo of the whole ridge... so rap the orange rocks that hide the 3c/4a pitches, walk back along the ridge under the 2nd gendarme, downclimb the South Couloir.
http://images.summitpost.org/original/246725.jpg
Hope that helps in some way, and that I've remembered the info correctly. Best of luck!
Post edited at 17:20
