UKC

Hello, did a search and couldn't find anything comprehensive.

Found some boulders which look like they haven't been touched before in Jimena de la Frontera, Spain, probably about 30 or so problems so we're looking to open them up. We've been abseiling down and scrubbing the holds with wire brush and then with soft brush, though it seems to take a while to get the hold into a good climbing condition.

Any tips? For example we found putting quite a bit of chalk on it dried out the hold and seemed to seal it a little.

In reply to Benclark1989:

I'm gonna reply as if this is a real request. I would consider wire brushes a huge no no. I've climbed a wide variety of sandstone and even the hardest stuff would be destroyed by a wire brush. Some would say don't even use nylon bristles on sandstone although i reckon its fine. I use a variety of brushes, depending on the boulder but I wouldn't say it take that long to clean off a hold. If you're spending that long on it your maybe removing rock and improving the hold. Once the holds are uncovered they will need to dry a little but I wouldn't pack chalk into them, just let them dry naturally. Sandstone can be really friable if wet, if you try and dry and climbing the holds too quick you might just snap off holds and ruin the problem for others.

Cleaning boulders takes patience, its part of the process.

In reply to Benclark1989:
Wet sandstone is nearly always gritty as water weakens the matrix. I would not advise either climbing or cleaning damp standstone either.

In reply to Benclark1989:

Also please check if there are any relevant environmental restrictions on removing plants for that area. Lichens and mosses can be very localized and might exist in only a single canyon or on a single crag.
(In the UK some of the Southern Sandstone is not allowed to be 'cleaned' for this very reason)

In reply to Benclark1989:

Ok, thanks for the advice guys.