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From Troll Wall to Lofoten: climbing and biking

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 Stone Muppet 27 Jun 2016

Given current weather in southern Norway we're considering the loooong drive up to Lofoten.

Does anyone know of places to stop and climb/ mountain bike on the way, once you get north of Trondheim?

ps. nothing as hard as troll wall please Trad to norwegian 4 and sport to 5+ would be about right.
Post edited at 16:48
 SturlaS 27 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

You'll find two of the best areas for sport climbing in Norway north of Trondheim.
First you get to Hell located close to the E6 near Trondheim Airport.
Then you have Flatanger which is about 2 hours drive from the E6 just north of Steinkjer.
 HeMa 27 Jun 2016
In reply to SturlaS:

Not much on sport 5+ though on either...

I'm sure bodoe region has something on offer. As does Eidetinden...
 Red Rover 27 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

IS the weather looking good in lofoton? What website are you using? I'm currently in Romsdal waiting for things to improve.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 27 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

It has been a bit mixed in Lofoten for the past 10 days, the past two days have been glorious, it looks like rain passing through tonight. Getting enough climbing done.
Don't bother going to Hell at Trondheim - it is pretty poor, especially in the lower grades,

Chris
 d_b 27 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

It's most of the way to Lofoten so no good for breaking the drive but I would recommend a detour to the Stetind/Narvik area if you have time.
 Red Rover 27 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Does stetind get the same weather as lofoton?
 wbo 27 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet: i would certainly recommend keeping a close eye on the detailed weather forecast. A few years back in June there was snow to sea level at Stetind but Lofoten was ok. Yr.no

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 27 Jun 2016
In reply to Red Rover:

Well it is about 50 miles away - so similar, though it is often a bit better out on the island

Chris
 d_b 27 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I found it was about half a day to a day behind so a good place to go if it is currently ok but there is incoming.
 SturlaS 27 Jun 2016
In reply to HeMa:

Flatanger has lots of routes graded 5 and 6.
 Red Rover 28 Jun 2016
In reply to wbo:

YR has been wrong for Andalsnes for the past few day, has it been reliable up north?
OP Stone Muppet 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs: Chris, if we do make lofoten is your book on sale somewhere there?

 d_b 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

Climbers cafe in henningvaer had loads of copies last june.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

Yes, in the climbing shop in Henningsvær and in the Tourist Info in Svolvær,


Chris
 wbo 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Red Rover: not especially, and for the last few months that's been the case. Storm.no is an alternative , but I don't often look at it so can't comment on its recent reliability .

 JuneBob 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

You're asking about North of Trondheim, but the title says from Troll Wall to Lofoten?

Firstly there's some bolted slabs opposite Troll wall which are quite fun. Then I highly recommend Ishoel near Oppdal, it's in a lovely location down by the river, and there's some fun sports routes at your grade, and there's a nice campsite with fire pit next to the climbing. I've added some of the routes to the logbook database, but get the guidebook.

Before Trondheim, near Orkanger you can go out to the little peninsula there; Kamberget has some easier routes and is very scenic, also Sagøra is very nice.

Hell has just opened a new crag below the main one, and there's a few nice routes in the easier grades there. There's a folder with the routes described left under a rock there. I'll get round to adding the routes to the database over the summer if someone doesn't beat me to it. The main crag is overhanging, and probably much to hard for you.

North of Hell is Ekne - I would say this is an excellent place for you. 45 minute walk from the car to a nice camping spot overlooking the fjord, and there's enough easy climbs in scenic positions to keep you occupied for a few days.

As others said, Flatanger has some fun stuff, and it's fun to watch some of the pro climbers in the cave. I think Ondra will be there around now. So, I suppose it's a bit like watching Djokovic play at Wimbledon.

I've added a fair bunch of stuff to the database here, just look on the map. I've listed the guidebooks.

Let me know if you'd like more info, e.g. for camping spots, shops, etc.

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Red Rover:

> YR has been wrong for Andalsnes for the past few day, has it been reliable up north?

Not really - very much a case of "jam tomorrow" for about a week now,

Chris
 GarethSL 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

Don't pass up the opportunity to mountain bike in Oppdal! You can buy the guidebook at vpg in town.

Also some small sports crags 20 min West of Oppdal so that area should definitely be on your list.

JuneBob already mentioned Ekne, definitely don't pass up that either!
 JuneBob 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

There are also other climbing options around in beautiful settings - Eresfjord is a nice location.
Also, look at climbing Innerdalstårnet in Innerdal - a spectacular tower - the normal route is a grade 1 scramble, or you could follow one of the low-grade multi-pitch trad routes up the front. Search for images and info. I haven't done the climbing routes yet, but I've heard it can be tricky to find the start.
OP Stone Muppet 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

As in, the lofoten weather hasn't been as nice as yr is saying? That's the main thing driving us North so when we get a good day like today (currently near oppdal) it's hard to know whether to stop and play or keep on going.

Any Norway veteran advice appreciated!
 d_b 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:
My advice would be to stay put and make the most of it if the weather is good and drive when it is raining.
Post edited at 21:30
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 28 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

I agree with David, if the sun is shining stick where you are.
The classic Arctic high pressure hasn't arrived yet this year - I guess it might not!
The weather has been OK, no heavy rain but a lot of misty days, you can get stuff done if you are keen.
Is it worth the drive? Your call!!!!

Chris
 Red Rover 29 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Whats good to do in bad weather in lofoton? Can you hire a rowing boat and explore the islands? How much would something like that cost? Are there any good fishing trips that wont break the bank?
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 29 Jun 2016
In reply to Red Rover:

There is a list of wet weather activities in the guidebook - museums, galleries etc. You can hire boats - not sure about the rowing variety - but it won't be cheap, this is Norway after all.
Personally I couldn't think of many worse things than going out in open boat in the rain!

Chris
 HeMa 29 Jun 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> Personally I couldn't think of many worse things than going out in open boat in the rain!

Well, instead of an open (rowing) boat, you could be on a rather unbalanced canoe (so not a kayak), with added waves and wind... in a lightning storm...

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 30 Jun 2016
In reply to Stone Muppet:

23C and wall to wall blue today - almost too hot! Busy too, at least on the easier climbs.
Forecast set pretty fair,

Chris

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