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Wintours leap - Swatter - good first HVS choice?

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 springfall2008 28 Jun 2016
Hi

What do the South West guys think of Swatter (HVS 5a) as a choice for my first HVS lead? I've already climbed the first pitch (VS part of The Split) and the description of the 2nd (HVS) pitch seemed okay. I've seconded a few HVS routes before, was thinking of stepping up
1
 bonelessivar 28 Jun 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

From what I can remember there's quite a tough mantle at the start of the second pitch which you wouldn't really want to fall off. Other than that I think it was OK. Definitely easier options for a first HVS though!
In reply to bonelessivar:

Yeh, the comments seemed to indicate that - I'm not too worried about a 5a (british) mantle as my onsight sports grade is around F6b. The things that always scares me is getting overly pumped on a trad route, but the description seems okay from that point of view.
 Hooo 28 Jun 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

I did it as my first HVS lead. Definitely not the easiest HVS I've done, and much harder than any VS at Wintours. The crux is stepping across into the groove. It's not technically that hard, but you have to commit without being able to see into the groove beforehand and you could hit the ledge if you fell off here.
I certainly felt I'd earned the HVS tick!
In reply to Hooo:

Did you climb Joe's and the Fly (VS last pitch) and Freedom (VS)? I think those are the highest VS's at Wintours I've climbed?
 Hooo 28 Jun 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

Haven't done either of those. I did second Freedom Direct (HVS second pitch) and we both fell off it. I wouldn't recommend that one as your first HVS
 Snot 28 Jun 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

Swatter is pretty safe I think but would prob recommend Suspension Bridge Arete at Avon or maybe something at Shorncliff if you want an 'easy' one.
In reply to Snot:

I seconded Emotional Dyslexia (HVS 5a) at Shorn Cliff, it was easier that some VS's IMHO.
 CurlyStevo 29 Jun 2016
In reply to springfall2008:
Good first HVS climbs in the SW has been done recently:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=640514

Wind Wall, Vala, Suspense and Suspension bridge arete are all good, low in the grade and on good gear
Post edited at 11:14
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Yes, I saw that one thanks

I've not climbed at the gorge before now, must admit it's not high on my list as I tend to stick with lower Wye Valley. Maybe one day.
 CurlyStevo 30 Jun 2016
In reply to springfall2008:
Suspension bridge buttress is natural, not polished high quality limestone up there with the best in the SW IMO. Its also not too noisey as the covering over the carriageway beneath it blocks out a lot of the road noise.

Laughing Cavaliers is a popular choice too in the wye.
Post edited at 10:29
 afshapes 30 Jun 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

I accidently did this thinking I was on African killer bee. ...don't ask ! Anyway got up it but felt really hard for a vs only realised a few years later that it was swatter !!
In reply to afshapes:

Which bit did you find hard, the shelf mantel/traverse bit or the crack afterwards?
 alan moore 30 Jun 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

Swatter is quite technical, steep nd tricky.
Guytha is a better first HVS. Or any of the Shorncliffe routes
 CurlyStevo 30 Jun 2016
In reply to alan moore:

apart from Tigers Don't Cry
 alan moore 30 Jun 2016
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Yes. I assumed that one was E1 by now...
 afshapes 02 Jul 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

The step across was committing on small holds and then the mantel was a little spicey ! It's only a small ledge but once you've done it is fine
In reply to afshapes:

Hopefully next week, it rained Thursday and we ended up climbing sport on sandstone
 Fatclimber 02 Jul 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

Did second pitch of swatter today as a second and was unconvinced that I would have been happy leading it. I am in a similar position to you, knocking on the door of Hvs, but I did happily lead all the Hvs routes at Portishead a few months ago. But I like slabs! So it's horses for courses really.
In reply to Fatclimber:

What bit were you unhappy with?

Thanks for the feedback
 Fatclimber 03 Jul 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

Step into the groove is a very big stretch. Gear is great though, so it is well protected.
In reply to Fatclimber:

We ended up going up Swatter yesterday, but I chickened out and let my partner lead the second pitch. I think this was a good choice as I fell off on the traverse bit the first time - now I've found the hidden foot hold I'd go back and lead it next time
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