UKC

Me and my partner will be in the dolomites for around 10 days from next week.

Can anyone suggest some good crags for us? Crags with lots of 4 & 5 grades are good as this is my partners first climbing year. Also a couple of easy multi pitch routes would be good also?

We are in our campervan and have not decided where to stay yet so suggestions can be anywhere?

I have the rockfax app so if the crag is available within the app thats also a big bonus

Thanks

In reply to minty1984:

I'm afraid I can't, as I've not climbed there but it did remind me of this video, which I watched again recently and is very inspiring:

youtube.com/watch?v=O9d9Of1NJjs&

In reply to Fraser:

Awesome video. I want to be like that when i am older!

In reply to minty1984:

Hi Minty,

I'd consider taking a look at the Falzarego pass:

Cinque Torri has a good selection of climbs and is located in a beautiful setting. There are some low grade sport and trad routes. The multi-pitch there isn't too big or committing and again there is a good selection of grades.

Sass di Stria is busy but has a good selection of easy sport climbing and the South Arete is a very popular multi-pitch.

You can stay at Cinque Torri, in the carpark beneath or in the Lagazoui lift carpark with a camper van.

_______

Another alternative is the Sella Pass. Citta dei Sassi is an excellent sport climbing location (albeit hard to navigate). There is some good easy multi-pitch on the Sella Towers / Piz Ciavazes.

Again the pass is easy to stay on in a camper van.

Have a good trip!

In reply to minty1984:
James, above, has covered it.
Just to say Sella Pass, Citta dei Sassi has the best selection of low grade stuff and is a good starting point to get your (partners) eye in.
I don't think you'll find much low grade bolted multi pitch stuff. The easy classic routes tend to be heavily pegged and have bomber belays but they still feel more like trad than sport but if you are leading it'll all be top roping to you partner...

In reply to James Rushforth:

(sorry to hijack the thread)

Hi James

We're heading to the Dolomites for 2 weeks in August with our kids (aged nearly 6 and 8)

What via ferrata would you recommend for a day out? Can be exposed but not too steep and not too many hairy unprotected knife edges. The kids are pretty used to climbing and long walks, but have never done via ferrata.

We have your amazing guidebook - it's a masterpiece!

Thanks a lot

Jus

In reply to minty1984:

Hi all

Thanks for the suggestions. I will check out these areas today.

Lack of bolts is no issue as my partner does not lead and i have a full trad rack with as well so as long as the route can be protected traditionally then it would be fine?

In reply to Jus:

Hi Jus

I asked a similar question a few weeks ago and got lots of very informative answers. If you search this forum for via ferrata and filter the threads by me i am sure u will find plenty of info. Hope this helps

In reply to minty1984:

thanks!

In reply to minty1984:

We climbed mostly that grade based in the Sella Pass and loved it Loads of towers and large faces both road side and more remote stuff.

In reply to minty1984:

Can anyone tell me what the walk in or drive in option for cinque torri is like? I have just noticed that the quickest approach is VIA a chairlift? Unfortunatley I am a travelling bum now!.... so I cannot afford to spend money on chairlifts!

In reply to Fraser:

Brilliant vid. Thanks!

Looked like he might have been doing Via Normale Quarta Bassa (III+). That's no pushover, despite the easy grade. Damned impressive.

In reply to James Rushforth:

James - I have your excellent book in front of me, but it doesn't answer my question, which may mean the answer is now "no". 30 years ago we wild-camped near the summit of the Sella Pass. Is that still permitted? We may be heading that way in two weeks time.

Many thanks

Martin

In reply to minty1984:

Very narrow road to get up there with not masses of parking. Get up early!
Closed for part of the summer though so best to check.

In reply to minty1984:

Just downloaded the sella pass and cinque torri guides in the rockfax app and have noticed that some of the multipitch routes are graded in roman numerals? Can someone explain this grading system to me please? I have seen this used in germany? Is this the same system?

In reply to minty1984:

Hi Minty,

It's UIAA grading. Some more information and a grade table at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2708

Just be careful with making a straight conversion as the UIAA grades don't take into account gear (or lack there of) like the English trad grading system does. I've got around this my adding the fluttery heart symbol to particularly bold routes. Most of the classic climbs in the Dolomites are well protected with lots of insitu gear though, particularly on the crux pitches. I'd start low at first though until you get a feel for the grades, protection and climbing.

Have a good trip!

In reply to Jus:

Hi Jus.

Thanks very much, I'm glad you like the book!

I'd start with a couple of grade 2 via ferratas and then go from there depending on how they feel (you don't really get an idea of what a vf is all about on a grade 1).

A couple of suggestions:

Piz da Cir V/Tcheirspitze V - A busy but good introductory short route in a nice situation.
Ivano Dibona and Marino Bianchi - Two excellent high altitude VF's with some stunning views and easy access using the lift system
Masare and Roda di Vael - A cracking and beautiful route in the Catinaccio.
Senitiero De Luca/Innerkofler - Great route overlooking the north faces of the Tre Cime.

Have a great trip!

In reply to Martin Hore:

Hi Martin,

I was deliberately vague in the book as it's allowed in some areas and not others depending on the region (and height at which you camp). Generally people don't mind providing you're out of sight, take it down early and leave no trace.

In reply to James Rushforth:

Thanks so much, James.

We'll take a look at your suggestions.

In reply to James Rushforth:

Hi James

I am just looking into where we are going to stay for our time on the dolomites. You mentioned that we can stay in the car parks of some of the lifts? Are these places just car parks or do they have facilities like toilets and showers? Although me and my missus are in a campervan, it is a very small VW T5 with no toilet or shower! Ideally we need to be on campsites so we can use the facilities they offer?

At the moment I am looking at a campsite called camping cadore. This site is closer to Cinque Torri and the Falzarego pass? Do you think the FP would be a suitable venue? It seems to offer low grade sport and easy access?

Thanks again for all your help

In reply to minty1984:

Hi Minty,

The lifts I mentioned are generally just carparks where lots of people stay, there's not much in the way of facilities however. There's a toilet at some of the rifugio's but they normally require you to be a customer or pay a small charge. When we lived in the van we went for the solar shower / lake option.

Personally I think the Falzarego is a great spot though bear in mind if you're staying at Camping Cadore it's a decent drive if you plan on taking your vehicle right up to Cinque Torri. If you don't mind taking the lift from the Giau (Rifugio Fedare) it's closer but you'll need to walk down the other side to the towers.

Camping Sass Dlacia might be worth a look as well as it's really well located. There's also International Camping Olympia in Cortina to consider.

I hope that helps a bit!

In reply to James Rushforth:

Hi james

Great help. Thank you so much. We are going to start in the campsite in cortina and then maybe brave a few days in the carpark if we feel up to it!

In reply to minty1984:

No problem. Have a good trip!

Would recommend camping dolomiti just outside cortina. Not too crowded good facilities, free washing machines and electric hookups included. Budget supermarket (eurospin), think lidl/aldi just down river off main road.

In reply to Jenny C:

Awesome. Thanks. I will check this out