UKC

UKC FitClub week 486

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 Dandan 10 Jul 2016
Morning all, placeholder as I'm off to do battle with Fighting Torque again, stats to follow later
In reply to Dandan:

Good luck!
In reply to Dandan:

Good luck! Sorry I'm not awol last week, just crazy busy....

OP Dandan 10 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Evening Fitclubbers!
It’s all a bit AWOL-tastic around here this week, hope its just because everyone is out enjoying themselves...

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=645042

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week’s posters;

Leeboy1985 - If you are pumping out on 6a’s you need to climb lots of easier routes to get your capillarisation up, that should help, that and skipping the vodka
D1 - I love a bit of karting. Where is DCC? Is it a good wall?
Si dH - Hope the finger hasn’t worsened, I thought you had steel fingers based on your heavy fingerboard sessions.
Tyler - Congrats on Dominatrix, sounds like a fun mixed week of activity!
Biscuit - Sounds like you have a handle on the redpoint tactics, I’ve heard top down is a really good method.
AJM - I must try Saskatchewan Uranium Miner for the name alone! What is at Burren?
Hokkyokusei - I’ve no idea what any of those are, peaks I guess? But well done!
Dandan82 - keep up the good work
Heelhookofglory - Well done on the leading! Slow and steady progress should get you up a severe in no time!
Ian Bell - Nice week, did you get outside at the weekend?
Planetmarshall - Have fun at Eigg? What is a hang squat?
AWOL - Everyone else!
 jas128 10 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

DCC is Durham Climbing Centre. It's a fairly decent sized bouldering wall and the only one within close reach of me currently.

M - Wansfell Pike walk ~6.5 miles. Also got my finals results whilst part way round - I'll be graduating with a 2.1!
T - Short walk in morning ~3 miles, followed by session at Ambleside Climbing wall as weather was poor. 8 routes up to 6b+ and taught the boyfriend how to toprope belay. Hopefully will be able to teach him how to lead belay soon!
W - 6.75 mile walk
Th - Kendal Climbing wall as more poor weather. routes up to 6c, plus some bouldering including on their awesome routing roof!
F - Drive back to Durham
S - Nothing
S - Tried to go to DCC but they had a kids family day on, so decided to give it a miss and go back another day instead. Looked round car dealerships instead.

All in all, a good week. Had a really nice time in the Lakes with lots of walking and climbing, as well as results! The callouses are coming back, and I'm getting fitter again.
 Tyler 10 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan and thanks also to JayK and Ian Bell for your congrats on last week's thread.

This week is easy to write unfortunately. Nothing all week while I rest my shoulder although I have sepend a few hours wielding a hedge trimmer over head hight which probably doesn't help.
OP Dandan 11 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Excellent week for me, put in some good effort. My left elbow has been a little achey most of the week but I have been pushing it quite hard and I feel like it is getting conditioned to a bit more abuse.

M: Bodyweight Antagonists; some good handstands and I managed the 45 degree manna hold again, very pleased.

T: Indoor routes; decided to check out the new routes, onsighted all of them at 6c+ 6c+ 7a+, all felt a little stiff for the grade and one of the 6c+'s was not particularly good. Had a couple of blasts at the 8a again but didn't have the power to complete it, I'm fine with this as I'm in the middle of a power training phase so I can expect to underperform a bit. I felt guilty having an unstructured session, but I think my elbow was happy not to be bouldering for once.

W: Cardio circuit and fingerboard; fingerboard felt solid, progress happening here I'm sure.

T: Indoor Boulders; warmed up to V7, got 1 move further on the V8 too which was very pleasing. Then did 30 move circuit, rest 1x work and repeat 8 times. Pitched it much better this time, upV3/4, down V3/4, up V4. Somehow managed 6 reps clean (with a lot of shouting), fell off rep 7 but pulled back on to finish, fell off rep 8, pulled back on and fell straight off. Really pleased with this, was super intense and really really hard work!

F: Re-did my 2 rep max chin up benchmark, it's been a couple of months and I'm a bit lighter. I did my previous best of +45kg no problem but then I ran out of weights, so I used Mrs Dandan instead. She's been training hard so is currently a slim 56kg, which is good as I only just managed 2 reps with her hanging around my waist!
So 2rm is now +56kg or 185% bodyweight, seems tantalisingly close to double my bodyweight...

S: CRUSH, KILL, DESTROY! Finally knocked my garage down to make way for a new, bigger one! It was a very sensible affair, more of a dismantling really, I was careful not to push myself too hard as I wanted to climb the next day, I think I found a good level, I was exhausted but not broken.

S: Portland, Cuttings; Back on Fighting Torque (8a) for session number 3, massive progress made!
Before we left I found a folded up bit of paper in the guide that was old beta for the route from a friend from years ago. I read through it and he had a totally different sequence through the crux, using a different hold that I hadn't seen, having been blindly following the beta I had.
I got on the rock and immediately found the hold, a tiny, sharp, but somehow still slimy crimp that turns the dynamic, low percentage left reach into a static, heel hooked reach. I did the move first time, it's so much less effort! I adjusted the following move to account for the different hand position, now I was ready for full-on redpoint mode!
I had two good redpoint goes, the first time getting through the crux but peeling off on the next off-balance catch. A little foot beta tweak and it was much more stable.
The second go I got two moves further but the right hand has a lot of work to do with no shakeouts so it failed while I was taking my weight to do a foot swap.
I'm really pleased though, I realised that I'm only 3 moves from safety, and none of them are super hard, it's just a case of hanging on! This should go next session, although I've no idea when that will be, got a busy few weekends ahead.

Last weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions - TICK
10x10 second free handstands - 3/10 need to do more sessions
Repeat 45 degree manna progression - TICK

Next Weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
Repeat 45 degree manna progression x2 -
Tick V8 indoor problem
Got outside, Mrs Dandan wants to go anywhere but Cuttings! -
Don't spanner myself before Lattice assessment end of July -

MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 9/2
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Think of new MTG's for next week


LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October - Going well...
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds

BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...

Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16* *56kg, 185% bodyweight 8/7/16*
*One arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between

 Emily 11 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Two weeks from me as I was in France last weekend. Quite a stark demonstration of the contrast between what I can climb when I'm not terrified and... the rest of the time.

27 Jun - 3 Jul:

Monday - sneakily reported this already a couple of threads ago: successful RP of Pearl Harbour (7a). Very happy!

Tuesday - bouldering at Bloc, got some reds and a few blues (6A-6C). The grading is softer here than at TCA I think (though the circuit bands are also very wide so who knows).

Wednesday - nothing.

Thursday - nothing, wanted to fit a run in but it didn't happen between work stuff and trip prep.

Friday - nothing, travel to London.

Saturday - nothing, travel to France.

Sunday - climbing at Le Boffi. Tried three routes in the 6a-6b range, too scared of all of them.

4 Jul - 10 jul:

Monday - climbing at Le Boffi. Got petrified on a very bad 6a+ which I subsequently failed to even top-rope. Later tried a 6c that was actually nice and a (very little) bit less scary but way out of my league.

Tuesday - tried to climb the 3-pitch L'arete Oeste. The first pitch was pretty cool but we were stuck behind The Literal Slowest Party In The History Of Ever (seriously, it was unbelievable) and eventually abseiled off in despair.

Wednesday - rest day from climbing, canoed a 10km route down the Tarn. My first time canoeing and I really enjoyed it.

Thursday - back at Le Boffi which I was growing to dislike as a venue. Dogged up another horrible 6b-something on top-rope. Then resigned myself to dropping as far as was possibly available down the grades and actually led something (4b). Tried a 5+ but got utterly panicky again and failed to redpoint it.

Friday - last day, went to Gorges du Tarn which I liked so much better. Successful RP of a 5+ that was surprisingly nice, then top-roped a really good 6a that I would have loved to try and RP if this hadn't been the last day of the trip (and it was just going out of the shade).

Saturday - nothing (except plenty of hauling of heavy bags around Paris and London!).

Sunday - nothing.

Short term (Jul)
  • do something to work on fear because this is driving me insane and ruining my fun, as per usual. Fall practice, static climbing drills, anything?
    • I guess none of this worked as I spent the France trip absolutely paralysed by panic
  • have fun on early July holiday (going somewhere in or near the south of France)
    • enjoyed the holiday but not most of the climbing, unfortunately. Just so scared that it ruined just about everything
  • find a new local project - maybe a Cheddar 6c?

Medium term (Jun, Jul, Aug)
  • maintain weight in 56-58kg range
    • no idea, probably well up after a week of croissant-eating
  • figure out what I want to focus on for cardio fitness now the Bristol 10k is over
    • erm, I did some canoeing on holiday, does that count?
  • have another play on Pearl Harbour
    • yes, I got it!!!
  • go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
    • varied from pretty good to Let's Not Talk About It on trip

Maybe someday
  • redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
  • redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
    • I did it! I assume Pearl Harbour is rather soft but whatever. It was a fun process and I would like to do another one sometime
  • lead a VS???
 Nick Russell 11 Jul 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Hi Dandan, thanks for the stats. I would prefer to think mine was an authorised absence! Double update for me since I was away last Sunday.

Week 485
M - Brean. Ticked Casino Royale (7b+) second tie in. Decent route at the top, but a bit dusty at the bottom, and the move off the sharp pocket is painful! Attempted the 'Storm Warning' start, but couldn't make any inroads on those crimps.
T - Bloc. Ticked the yellow that I'd been trying ages ago (yes, it was still there). Hot and busy.
W - 9km run
T - Rest
F - 5km run, core
S - Nothing (travel to France)
S - Le Boffi (day 1). Long routes! Highlight was Un horizon bouché (7a+), all the way. Attempt 1 I fell off above the last bolt! Still hard second time, but I was expecting it this time...

Week 486
M - Le Boffi (day 2). 2 7a+ onsights! Mac du Mal (7a+) on Damned was excellent, as was Chair de poule (6c) next to it.
T - Went to the nearby Gorges de la Jonte to attempt the multipitch L'arête ouest (6a+). Shut down by the slowest party in the world ahead of us. After at least 2 hours sat at the top of P1 we called it a day and abbed off.
W - Rest day. Canoeing on the Tarn
T - Le Boffi (day 3). I wanted to go back and try Sac à glue (P1) (7b+). Short version*: no tick here. Some consolation in climbing pitch one of Damned (P1) (6c) - probably the best route of the trip!
F - Gorges du Tarn. Did a couple of routes at a small sector (club house) before lunch then moved on to Tennessee. The route "Tenneessee" was in the sun, so I got on Nom de Mosuejouls! (7b+) instead. I'm going to blame end-of-trip fatigue but I just couldn't get past the last bolt. Clipsticked to the top.
S - Nothing (travel back from France)
S - Rest

STG
  • A few Cheddar N routes I've had my eyes on: Sing a Mean Toon, Kid (7b+), Circus, Circus (7c), Everyday Lives of Ordinary People (7c)
  • Anybody up for a weekend at Pentire Point or Lower Sharpnose Point this summer?

    MTG
  • Sub-90 in Bristol half in September. The running is ticking over ok.
  • Start working through my ticklist of E4s. Star Wars (E4 5c), Resurrection (E4 6a), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Right Wall (E5 6a), ...

    LTG
  • Snowdonia marathon 2017. I'll have to be very quick on the 1st January if I want to get a place
  • Get my act together and organise a trip to Orkney. Summer 2017?

    BHAG
  • The Long Hope Route
  • Black Bean

    * The longer version is that I'm not sure exactly what went wrong. Attempt 1 I got through the steep, burly start, but fell off at a hard move to a mono (well, stacked 2) but figured out what to do. The rest of the route didn't cause much of a problem and I thought the RP was going to be a formality. Maybe complacence, the next 2 goes were very scrappy up the steep stuff (every move felt desperate) and not surprisingly I didn't make it through the crux. Attempt 3, I regained some focus, climbed very smoothly through the start, but just dropped off setting up for the pocket move. Probably tired by this point? Last go was similar, and then it was time to leave. With hindsight, it was possibly a bad choice since it didn't come into the shade until 4pm, and it felt like the hottest day of the trip.

    Disappointing that I still haven't managed to climb anything harder than 7a+ away from home (despite onsighting a couple at this level now!) I thought I'd got a lot right this time: it was the day after a rest day, I set off with the intention to RP, worked out the crux somewhat systematically (for me), and took plenty of rest between attempts.
  •  Ian Bell 11 Jul 2016
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    STG = another 7a+ by end of July.
    MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
    BHAG = 8a by 40

    Hi all

    Fitclub seems to be diminishing in numbers if not effort Good work Dandan on fighting torque and Emily on Pearl Harbour - your first 7a?

    M - WW intending to do link up laps in the fridge but it was being re-set. Doh! Did sets in the circuit room. Played around a bit then did 6 mins on, 6 off, 5 on, 5 off etc down to 2 on / off and then started back up again. Got properly knackered!

    T - strength and conditioning c1 hour

    W-Sat - unidentified illness

    Sun - c1.5 hour boulder in Urban Ascent (Parsons Green). Flashed a load of their V3-V4 problems (much easier than Westway). Annoyingly seem to have tweaked my finger a bit ;-( stopped pretty soon after I did it and doesn't feel too bad today so hopefully not a bit deal.

    Annoying week, recover from illness and then tweak finger, wasn't even on any particularly hard move. Will do the rings / strength and conditioning first half of the week and hopefully it'll be OK second half.
     biscuit 11 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:
    Cheers Dan. Fingers crossed for your next visit.

    I had another good session on the bulge but pain in my left shoulder stopped anything else for the week. I won't bore people with the technicalities but I know what it is and am happy I can keep it in check during the project.

    I got new beta for the moves out of the knee bar. It takes a move out, is much less intense and higher percentage. Win win!

    Felt really good on the warm up go. The top moves felt easy, I even accidentally found a better way to hold the bowling ball. Bit of a rushed day and in a 3. So I went up 3 times in 3 hrs. Felt OK. That's progress.

    Whilst it all seems positive the route gets 8a to join it all together. I gave it a go from the knee bar through the crux and did that. Then realised I hadn't looked at feet from there to link into the next bit. Quick sort out of that and then made it to bowling ball. Totally goosed despite a 30s rest on rope.

    Got assessment back from foc tests. Just about ok at the start (aerobic and power) woefully lacking in an cap and short on aero pow. No shocks there and shows on the route.

    So plan is 1 day a week in route and 2x AnCap sessions. In a month I'll them start aero pow to top up.

    Just hope it stops raining!
     Emily 11 Jul 2016
    In reply to Ian Bell:
    > Fitclub seems to be diminishing in numbers if not effort Good work Dandan on fighting torque and Emily on Pearl Harbour - your first 7a?

    Yep - thanks
     Ian Bell 11 Jul 2016
    In reply to Emily:

    nice i finally did it this year after some failures in the past. I've certainly done easier ones in Portland.
     Climbthatpitch 11 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dandan
    Good luck on your next session
    Capillarisation? is this something to do with endurance training. I have been trying easier routes this week and am planing on sticking to the easier routes for a few weeks with just a bit of hard bouldering in at the end of the session to maintain strength. Hopefully will see a good result

    Last weeks goals
    Lose weight - drop from 85kg to 84kg - Tick now 84kg

    Next week STG
    Lose weight drop from 84kg to 83kg - No Alcohol
    Did better on the no alcohol last week but this week need to be tee total

    MTG Sept 2016
    Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
    Lead 1 VS route

    LTG winter 2016/2017
    Get experience in Scottish winter

    BHAG
    Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
    Orion Face Direct (V 5)

    Monday - Run up around Manmoel - 60 min slow pace 11:00 per mile, 550 ft acent
    Tuesday - Climbing. Spent time warming up on easy boulders and 10 min on the auto belay. Rest of the session was spent belayin my boy
    Wednesday - Rest.
    Thursday - Rest
    Friday - Rest
    Saturday - Went to LLangorse climbing centre. Unfortunately no auto belay so spent some time on warming up bouldering and then traversed for 10 min on 10 min off 3 times. Felt the routes were slightly undergraded as I managed to onsite a 6b+ boulder problem which is well above me. Run - 20 min slow pace 10 min per mile 170ft accent
    Sunday - 3 hour walk around forestry and mountain by me. Climbing - Easy warm up on bouldering wall then what I think are 4x4 on the auto belay. Climb up lowerer off and repeat 4 times

    Unfortunately didn't manage to get outside this week but have a trip planed now for the end of the month to north Wales which should be good.

    Happy training
    Lee
     Si dH 11 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:
    Thanks Dan. Think I've done a pretty good job of tendon recovery this week after last week's injury, ie continued to use it and explored the limits a bit but without pushing it beyond mild pain, and avoided trying the Mentalist again. I'd say it's now at 90%.

    2016 goals:

    - Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night

    - Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
    - Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
    - Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
    - The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
    - The Mentalist (f7C)
    - Paint it Black (f7C)
    - Tetris (f7C)

    - Arch Enemies (7c+)
    - 8a

    M: Went to the Climbing Unit to try out the new circuit board there with two objectives: (1) exercise and test out tendon on something super easy (aerocap style) and (2) if tendon was ok then do some aeropow. This went pretty well. I did a couple of laps of the grey 5+ circuit then gradually ramped it up until I had done a lap of the orange 6c circuit, without any significant ill effects. Rested for a bit, then did some aeropow. This involved 7 or 8 reps of the orange circuit, with resting time equal to climbing time (although on 2-3 occasions the resting time was more like 2x the climbing time as I was waiting for others to get off the wall.) As an indication of length, when moving very efficiently and fast, the circuit takes me about 1 minute 15-20 seconds. Difficulty-wise Fr6c felt about right. Tendon felt ok - I also tried the next circuit up (in difficulty) once, but that had some holds that immediately caused mild pain so I stopped. Fortunately none of the hard bits on the orange needed me to drop a finger with the right hand.
    T: Bouldering at Forest Rock after work - never been there before. Nice little venue. Did 5 problems in the 6C - 7A/+ range. On the second one of the day I felt my tendon hurt quite a bit and rested for a while before then sticking to problems where I could use all 4 fingers on the right hand. I had been purposefully avoiding pockets but this problem had involved pinches and finger jams on the ight hand, which also aggravated it a bit. After a rest an then warming up more on other problems, it improved markedly and I had a good session.
    W: rest
    T: Felt knackered & stressed after work, but needed a release and knew I still needed to avoid the Mentalist for tendon reasons, so went for another session on Eastwood. Had 4 attempts, the first 3 were all good goes coming off on the last couple of moves again, trying to get my feet across at the end. 4th go I had to cut my rest short due to approaching dark, and failed a move earlier.
    F: rest.
    S: Arch Enemies. Unfortunately conditions were terrible. We got there as the rain stopped about 11am and I dogged up to warm up and dry the holds - a few were damp but dried off well and I thought it was going to be fine. Then while I belayed my partner the day warmed up, and when I got back on it, it was clear the increasing temperature had caused the atmosphere to pass the dew point and dump all the air's moisture on to the rock. Literally as I was climbing it got wetter and wetter everywhere, and I found it a real challenge even with the draws all in to climb/frig to the top to the top so that I could strip it. Left and went home after that (obviously.)
    S: nothing

    Injury catalogue: left index finger has been gradually improving and now not far off back to normal (still no pain except under pressure - and swelling now reducing). Shoulder no real change this week, not too bad. Right middle finger progressing, needs lots of care on anything with right hand middle 2 or front 3 pockets.

    Weight last Sunday night was 11st 4lb! This was a bad one-off after a lot of over-eating that day (and a lot of it was a huge load of veg I ate on Sunday.)

    Reflecting today, I've realised that I am very capable of ticking my main 3 projects at the moment (Eastwood, Arch Enemies, Mentalist) but they are already very well-refined, so I just need to focus my training on them or awhile. Both Eastwood and Mentalist would benefit most from more core strength - my fingers are strong enough I think - while Arch would benefit from a bit more aerobic endurance to keep the pump away for an extra couple of moves at the top. Therefore, I need to make a resolution to focus on aeropow and core training for the next 3-4 weeks. Please hold me to this next week!

    Si
    Post edited at 18:04
    In reply to Dandan:
    Thanks Dan. I actually really enjoyed it and felt great on the 'sharp end' for once in my life. I rested up all week due to being ill and it just showed how much better I cope with stress when I'm not tired. Certainly something to think about.

    I've broken my one rule this week and done too much of one thing to the detriment of everything else. Feeling it today as I write this (Tuesday 11th) so I'll try and re-balance this week. I have a skiing day booked for Friday which will help balance things out. Note to self £ keep the balance and mix it up, you know you don't like it when you just ride and don't climb!

    Mon: Rest
    Tue: Rest
    Wed: 18 miles MTB
    Thu: 10 miles MTB
    Fri: 18 miles MTB
    Sat: Rest
    Sun: 17 miles MTB

    Aims For This Week:
    A balance of activities, focus on variety and fun
    Climbing: 2-3x 0/3 Fail!
    Bike: 2x 4/2 Fail! (too much!)
    Get an indoor V5/6 ticked.
    Get on Too Drunk.
    Get on a rope again
    Lead a trad route if it's dry enough

    STGs:
    Climb consistently (2-3 times per week)
    Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (reds) 2/?
    Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
    Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
    Attend skiing lesson July 15th
    Lead 1x Diff before July 18th
    Complete 1st row on indoor routes pyramid 1/8

    MTGs (before end 2016):
    Complete the Mids XC Series
    Race in the National at Cannock
    Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
    Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
    High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
    Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
    Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
    Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
    Get competent at skiing

    LTGs (before end 2017):
    Boulder 7B
    Lead a Severe
    Do a Scottish skiing trip
    Winter III
    Kili or Elbrus (and ski back down if Elbrus)

    BHAGs:
    Boulder 8A
    Winter V
    Cenotaph Corner
    Cemetery Gates
    Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
    Some classic Alpine routes
    Post edited at 19:14
    OP Dandan 11 Jul 2016
    In reply to leeboy1985:

    That 10 minutes on, 10 minutes off that you did is capillarisation, so you are doing the right thing. It's basically helping your muscles to stay within the aerobic threshold so you don't get pumped so easily, keep it up!
     Climbthatpitch 11 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Ah ok

    I Will keep it up

    Thanks for the explanation
     TonyB 12 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Sorry I haven't had much time for fitclub over the last few weeks. I haven't had much time for climbing either. I'm in Arizona at the moment at a field station. It's +42oC and I don't really have anything in the way of training facilities. I'll be back on FC soon.
     Cyan 12 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks for starting the thread Dan and apologies for a couple of weeks of absence... life has felt a bit chaotic since getting back from Scotland and I've been struggling to knuckle back down to training. Back on it this last week though.

    Mon: Fingerboard, core.
    Tues: Short boulder followed by a long night in A&E after Quiddity crashed his bike - he's basically fine but a bit of a mess.
    Wedns: Core.
    Thurs: Wall. 8 mins on 8 mins off x3, triple laps on short steep 6b+.
    Fri: Rest.
    Sat: Wall. Campus, rings.
    Sun: Double fingerboard, ugh. Pressups.
     Cyan 12 Jul 2016
    In reply to jas128:

    PS. Hi D1
     AJM 12 Jul 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    > AJM - I must try Saskatchewan Uranium Miner for the name alone! What is at Burren?

    Saskatchewan is very cool. Hoping to get back on it this weekend.

    Burren is a band of limestone seacliffs about an hour north of Shannon. Really top quality rock, single pitch trad, quite cracky, some classic HVSs but basically E2+. I'd never been before but it's really good.

    So my week pre-Burren was a couple of evenings of gardening, which got some good aches going but also led to a shoulder tweak from sawing at a bad angle so I took Wednesday and Thursday off to make sure I was healthy for the weekend.

    Weekend was Burren. Currently waiting to fly home at Shannon airport.
    - Friday we arrived after lunch (crag faces west anyway) and did an HVS, E1, E2 and my mate tried another E2 before it started drizzling and then raining all evening. The rain was a fairly constant feature of the weekend.
    - Saturday my mate tried the same E2 again, I seconded clean, just about (in those conditions, I had to fight more than on Break on Through to not fall off), we did another wet HVS and I did the crag classic E2 with a rest where a wet hold messed me up a bit. It was still hard. Grades are no giveaway.
    - Sunday it rained all day. We went for a short walk bit otherwise not much else. My mate went home so it was just mrsAJM and I for Monday and Tuesday.
    - Monday we started off on a VS, it started raining, by the time we finished the route and escaped back to the car I was soaked. Several hours of drying (us and the crag) later we returned. It was a nice afternoon and I did an E3 ground up second go and quite a physical E2 onsight. Sadly seepage streaks from cracks on other routes put a few other ambitions out of reach.
    - today again it was wet early but turned into a lovely afternoon as we left. Did a sandbag HVS 5b warmup, and the crag classic hvs corner which was pretty mega bit felt hard with tired feet.

    On paper not a massive amount done but a good trip and I'm keen to go back. I think for longer though as you need time to get stuff done despite the climate. There's loads of amazing looking E3-5 stuff to go at next time. Psyche high.
     Si dH 13 Jul 2016
    In reply to Curious Yellow:

    Sorry to hear about Nick, hope he's on the mend!
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dan. In my AWOL week I had to work on the Sat but got down to Cuttings boulderfield on Sunday and knocked out a few problems, some fish and chips and a very bad sunglasses tan.

    More recently a slow week training-wise but a positive weekend with a good session on Jerry's Traverse (f7A+) and some excellent planning for WCS. Getting fed up of crap

    M – fingerboard
    T –rest
    W – conditioning
    T – CapPow Brookes and conditioning.
    F – AM Body balance class
    PM Routes Big Rock
    S – Planning meeting for Women’s Climbing Symposium after qualifiers for BBCs – it’s pretty exciting this year! But no training but conditioning…
    S – A few goes on Jerry’s – now in three overlapping sections. It’s much better with a spotter and more mats, but is going to take several sessions as there are at least four big catches on the left that only feel like a 1 in 4 chance of success at the moment, so that’s a 1 in 16 of putting it all together?! Right ankle is standing up to the heelhooking at the time, though has been a bit creaky since so watch this space. Then went to do comp problems at Climbing Unit on the way home.
     Si dH 13 Jul 2016
    In reply to Just Tintin:

    Nice one persevering on Jerry's. Working hard stuff is how you get better - it'll do you a lot of good How were conditions elsewhere in Blackwell Dale eg Paint it Black - all still very wet?

    In reply to Si dH:

    Yeah that whole side was streaky. Paint it Black was close to being dry (a bit condensed) on Sunday, but then it rained again so not sure!

    It's the middle bit on Jerry's from the third heelhook catch to the match catch that's getting me. So many long left reaches and slippy feet. It's good for my sequence remembering anyway - in my harder traverses to date I've been able to freestyle a bit as long as I got the crux moves sequenced, but this is a long crux with a very singular sequence for my pathetic T-rex wingspan!
     Tyler 13 Jul 2016
    In reply to Just Tintin:

    > CapPow

    Oof!
     Si dH 13 Jul 2016
    In reply to Just Tintin:

    Being able to string several moves together at your limit, which have to be totally wired, will definitely stand you in good stead.
    I didn't use any heels on that section - just intricate toe movements and flags with both feet at various points - but might be a height/reach thing.
    In reply to Tyler:

    yes, definitely made that noise several times
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Apologies for the stalking Nick, but just wanted your views on how slabby Sacre Coeur (E2 5c) is and whether it might prove a bad idea for someone with largely inflexible recently broken ankle?
     AJM 14 Jul 2016
    In reply to Just Tintin:

    It's pretty slabby. I had sore feet by the end of it if I remember right. There may (although this is more hazy) be some sticking feet into cracks/constrictions stuff to do rather than it being a ladder of edges so that might require more ankle flexibility.
     Cyan 14 Jul 2016
    In reply to Si dH:
    Cheers, he's doing much better - trashed his bike but somehow managed not to do any real damage to himself
     Cyan 14 Jul 2016
    In reply to Tyler/Just Tintin:
    Re: CapPow, oh dear, I have my first session of this in a couple of weeks *gulp*


     Si dH 14 Jul 2016
    In reply to Curious Yellow:

    What is CapPow?
     AJM 14 Jul 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    Its one of Tom's sessions (assuming they mean the same thing - Capacity:Power transition). Its something like 6 sets of double laps on a route with about 10 minutes rest between sets, or something like that.

    I think for me it was supposed to be ~7b or something like that, so 6 sets of doubles on a 7b. Pretty tough by set 6!
     Si dH 15 Jul 2016
    In reply to AJM:

    Oof.
    I can just about cope with aeropow but that sounds like the sort of training I'll avoid in favour of getting stronger
     AJM 15 Jul 2016
    In reply to jas128:

    I hadnt noticed the finals results, well done
     AJM 15 Jul 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    I just read your post in more detail by the way - if you're doing 1on1off on 6c that's probably aerocap/aeropow borderlands depending on how you feel on the last reps (1on1off is one of Toms favourite high end aerocap sessions) - might mean you see a different move in the curve than my email yesterday suggested.
     Nick Russell 15 Jul 2016
    In reply to Just Tintin:

    Hi Tintin, if I keep a public logbook I can expect some stalking! From my memory AJM is pretty spot on: very slabby but a lot of the holds/feet are in thin cracks which probably doesn't suit recently-healed ankle. My toes were pretty sore from the top (see youtube.com/watch?v=5CS8NokZEr4& where I'm asked at the end for a comment: "my feet are fed up of being torqued in thin cracks!").
     Si dH 15 Jul 2016
    In reply to AJM:

    Ok thanks, seems a bit strange as the barrows PDF definitely says thats aeropow :s
     AJM 15 Jul 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    So it does. Id forgotten he says that. It's all a spectrum really so whichever side of the line you define it as it basically sits in the same place
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    Thanks! We'll see if I get weather in the next couple of days...
    In reply to AJM:

    Thanks Andy - might sidle up the Vs and have a look. Did a bit of torquing today and will also see what that feels like tomorrow!


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