In reply to Dandan:
Excellent week for me, put in some good effort. My left elbow has been a little achey most of the week but I have been pushing it quite hard and I feel like it is getting conditioned to a bit more abuse.
M: Bodyweight Antagonists; some good handstands and I managed the 45 degree manna hold again, very pleased.
T: Indoor routes; decided to check out the new routes, onsighted all of them at 6c+ 6c+ 7a+, all felt a little stiff for the grade and one of the 6c+'s was not particularly good. Had a couple of blasts at the 8a again but didn't have the power to complete it, I'm fine with this as I'm in the middle of a power training phase so I can expect to underperform a bit. I felt guilty having an unstructured session, but I think my elbow was happy not to be bouldering for once.
W: Cardio circuit and fingerboard; fingerboard felt solid, progress happening here I'm sure.
T: Indoor Boulders; warmed up to V7, got 1 move further on the V8 too which was very pleasing. Then did 30 move circuit, rest 1x work and repeat 8 times. Pitched it much better this time, upV3/4, down V3/4, up V4. Somehow managed 6 reps clean (with a lot of shouting), fell off rep 7 but pulled back on to finish, fell off rep 8, pulled back on and fell straight off. Really pleased with this, was super intense and really really hard work!
F: Re-did my 2 rep max chin up benchmark, it's been a couple of months and I'm a bit lighter. I did my previous best of +45kg no problem but then I ran out of weights, so I used Mrs Dandan instead. She's been training hard so is currently a slim 56kg, which is good as I only just managed 2 reps with her hanging around my waist!
So 2rm is now +56kg or 185% bodyweight, seems tantalisingly close to double my bodyweight...
S: CRUSH, KILL, DESTROY! Finally knocked my garage down to make way for a new, bigger one! It was a very sensible affair, more of a dismantling really, I was careful not to push myself too hard as I wanted to climb the next day, I think I found a good level, I was exhausted but not broken.
S: Portland, Cuttings; Back on
Fighting Torque (8a) for session number 3, massive progress made!
Before we left I found a folded up bit of paper in the guide that was old beta for the route from a friend from years ago. I read through it and he had a totally different sequence through the crux, using a different hold that I hadn't seen, having been blindly following the beta I had.
I got on the rock and immediately found the hold, a tiny, sharp, but somehow still slimy crimp that turns the dynamic, low percentage left reach into a static, heel hooked reach. I did the move first time, it's so much less effort! I adjusted the following move to account for the different hand position, now I was ready for full-on redpoint mode!
I had two good redpoint goes, the first time getting through the crux but peeling off on the next off-balance catch. A little foot beta tweak and it was much more stable.
The second go I got two moves further but the right hand has a lot of work to do with no shakeouts so it failed while I was taking my weight to do a foot swap.
I'm really pleased though, I realised that I'm only 3 moves from safety, and none of them are super hard, it's just a case of hanging on! This should go next session, although I've no idea when that will be, got a busy few weekends ahead.
Last weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions - TICK
10x10 second free handstands - 3/10 need to do more sessions
Repeat 45 degree manna progression - TICK
Next Weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
Repeat 45 degree manna progression x2 -
Tick V8 indoor problem
Got outside, Mrs Dandan wants to go anywhere but Cuttings! -
Don't spanner myself before Lattice assessment end of July -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 9/2
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Think of new MTG's for next week
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October - Going well...
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16* *56kg, 185% bodyweight 8/7/16*
*One arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between