UKC

Hello,

I've been climbing on and off for 20+ years, but now live in a climbing desert (East Anglia). I seldom get the opportunity to climb, but love every minute when I do. The biggest problem I face is forearm stamina - technique, upper body and core strength is ok, but my sessions are shorter than they would otherwise be, the main culprit being the forearm pump.

Can anyone suggest some good exercises 'at home' to help with this?

With thanks

In reply to The Marmot:

Find a door frame. Hang off it.

In reply to The Marmot:

Stamina is normally trained by traversing a few grades below your onsight limit, creating a gentle managable pump.

Best thing might be to build a small wall and traverse around on jugs replicating this. Additionally, this small wall would allow you to develop and maintain fitness.

If this isn't possible, I have not got a good idea. Maybe some exercises where you hang feet on, on a pull up bar for a long time, shaking out, creating a gentle manageable pump.

Generally for aerobic forearm training, you'd need to do it, around 3 times a week for a couple of months and then maintain.

In reply to The Marmot:

Check out some Eastern block forearm training, basically do fingertip curls with a heavy barbell, up to 150% own bodyweight ( with training!)
Think it was used by the Russian climbing team ages ago.

In reply to The Marmot:

Buy yourself the medium sized beastmaker campus rung and do repeaters off this. Try starting with 5 seconds in followed by 5 seconds off.

In reply to alx:



Even better get a couple of campus rungs above the door frame and do foot-on-campusing with feet on a chair set back laddering up and down with timed intervals. Boring as hell. Brutally pumpy. Highly effective.

Then build a systems board

In reply to The Marmot:

Crusher Holds - Forearm & Wrist Exerciser ...search on e#ay ...but basically make your own!

In reply to The Marmot:

Or even even better find somewhere to hang one of these and do everything on it...

http://crusherholds.co.uk/crusher-mission-portable-hangboard-fingerboard

In reply to shark:
This is a better option and less tedious than normal repeaters.

The wooden BM rungs are really good and discrete.

In reply to The Marmot:

Thanks all for the suggestions. Hanging Finger board looks the best bet.

M