UKC

Any good ideas for taking a novice climber on a good day out in the Bristol area? I'm looking for a steady V Diff, maybe up to HS depending on how things go. The gorge seems too polished and the routes not very straightforward, but there must be other areas without too much loose rock that will fit the bill. Thanks for your suggestions.

In reply to purple sue:

Balch's Slide FCQ

In reply to purple sue:
The corner routes at Wintours leap, and central rib routes if they get on with that. If they are not good with heights then Balches/the Socialist are good. There are also some at Goblin - the arkenstone has a pleasant Vdiff up the right hand side, and also the s/HS crack just to the left of that one. There also seem to have been a lot of VDiffs added there but I don't know these as I've not needed to try them out! Look in the logbooks here for details.

In reply to scott titt:

IIRC Balch's Slide is certainly HS, but nearer to VS if you stick right to the centre of the line - a bit more than "steady V.Diff". It's certainly a quality route but not sure I'd recommend it for a novice especially as it's also an abseil descent afterwards unless you want to walk some way. Definitely worth doing some time though!

In reply to SimonCRMC:

The socialist is the line to the left of Balches slide and is much more like severe. As for abseiling, it could also be a lower, and as such it is one of the steadiest lowers you'll find, being a massive easy angled slab with no trees or obstacles in the way.

In reply to purple sue:

Sand Point Middle Hope West Buttress area is good for loads of short pitches in the D - HS range. The climbing is short lived (8 - 10m) but decent, good for easy communication if your novice is of a nervous disposition. It is tidal though so you need to time your visit right to make the most of it (no abseil required). It is fairly recently developed, you'll find topos amongst the photos on the UKC crag page.
If you're confident in your novice's ability to handle exposure then as others have suggested some of the long routes at Wintour's Leap would be a memorable introduction to Trad.
If you go to Sand Point and your novice is getting confident try my route Sandweto (VS 4b) softish VS and good moves for all of its short length.
Hope you are keeping well, must catch up for a climb at some point this Summer (I've finished term now, so have some flexibility over the next few weeks).

In reply to beardy mike:

I agree the socialist is around hvd/severe, balchs slide is bold hs if you take the direct line.

If we are talking VD lines at FCQ then "back to basics" is very good fun. Only problem is that the belay is miles away from the top of the route.

In reply to davidbeynon:
Minute Waltz (VD) is another decent FCQ offering and also on the Glacis Real Men Do Eat Quiche (S 4a) is enjoyable. Quite a few of the HS/VS routes on the slabs there mostly get their grades from the sparse protection and feel no more than S for a second (if that is what your novice is doing).
I rate Halfway to Kansas (HS 4a) and Summer Daze (HS 4b) and would expect a confident novice to cope with these on second.
If it is not too far then Symonds Yat has plenty of decent things in the requested grade range too, with a little wandering you can find quite a few VDiffs with stars and finish by climbing out on Snoozin' Suzie.

In reply to SimonCRMC:


Definitely not one for a novice leader anyway - the climbing is barely Severe, but protection is, shall we say, sparse. I think I got my first bit of gear in at about 8m.

In reply to purple sue:
20+ years ago I was living in Bristol and starting to lead, the scale and polish of Avon Gorge was too much. The cosmetic protection of tiny wires and small diameter spectra cord for threads helped reduce the fear factor. There were one or two routes nearer the suspension bridge that worked for me. We headed to Goblin Coombe a few times with mates with cars; I think there may have been a tick outbreak there in recent years though.
My best early experiences were had at Trym Valley Gorge, it is a great place with a 'country park' feel to it and for me it was within walking distance of town. There are a couple of V Diffs; a couple of severes and half a dozen HS's. Its single pitch too and I have good memories of of being up on Gorams Chair. It's a bit of a hassle getting up to it and then back down to the start of the routes through the summer vegetation but the view up there was like we were looking out over a rainforest. A Pterodactyl would not have looked out of place flying beneath us - real Lost World stuff. V Diff Gorams Chimney is not really a chimney from to top bottom, it may start off as such but then it's more a series of cracks with ledges, like a mountain V Diff. You may also get ideas of the HVS Gorams Crack just to the left, with it's bomber in-situ engineering-nut thread. I did....... and failed on it! The other single pitch stuff is down in the valley near the river with far simpler access.
Not been back for nearly two decades so it may have all changed and turned into a landfill or a housing estate. I'd love to go back for a look were it not for the fact that I am now in Snowdonia. Good luck.

In reply to purple sue:

Symmonds Yat is good although quite steep / pumpy and polished for the lower grades.

Goblin Coomb is nice at that sort of grade although I keep hearing about lots of ticks there. Still I visited a couple of times in the last few years with none.

I think multi-pitch is probably best avoided as a first outing.

You could of course go to Dartmoor - Hay Tor / Low Man is good at that sort of grade.

In reply to JimmAwelon:

Goblin Combe has a tick outbreak in the same way as a few people broke out in spots during the black death.

It's a great crag in winter though.

In reply to davidbeynon:
When I lived in Brizzle 15 years or so back I never saw ticks at GC it was just large ants then. I think the last couple of times I was there was autumn / early winter.

In reply to CurlyStevo:
The ants are still there, but the worst they can do is nibble you a bit and apply a bit of chemical damage to your anchor slings.

14 ticks in one evening is my record. I was still finding them 3 days later.

In reply to UKC posters:

Thank you very much everyone for such a useful response to my question.
Plenty of options and suggestions to go at, which I will consider and look into before our outing.
Much appreciated.

In reply to purple sue:

Depends on the people. I used to know someone who regularly took folk up Central Rib Route III (VD) at Wintour's Leap as their first climb (not just their first multi pitch), and AFAIK there were never any epics. I was with him on one such occasion and everyone loved it.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Yeah that's true enough also. Its a good route, quite tricky in places though.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Lovely route isn't it Simon.
How are you doing now.
Ian.

In reply to beardy mike:

Good point Mike, although I guess we'd want to ensure people lower in a way which doesn't wear out the anchors! On my visits to Fairy Cave I've often wondered how long it will be before Balches does become a VS if it continues to be used as a descent, but that's probably a topic for another thread.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:


Another vote for this.

Sue, I assume you'll do all the leading so gear not an issue?

Central has nice roomy stances, a good size and harder/easier options around.

Otherwise drive a little and go to the Gower or Dartmoor.
Can't agree with the Fairy Cave suggestion.

J

In reply to SimonCRMC:

No need to wear the anchors if you belay at the top. The anchors are too far set back for top roping at any rate. The most direct line was always given VS.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:


I've done this twice, no epics so far! Clearly you need to be able to judge your partner. If they are going to freak out it will be on the first pitch and you can lower them straight down to the ground. There is a slightly awkward 10' scramble to the base of the route which usefully acts as a filter for the very timid.

It's a lovely, varied route with a great setting for a southern English inland crag and will give your novice a better taste of the real thing (tongue wavering around cheek) than somewhere like FCQ or Sand Point.

In reply to purple sue:

Hi Sue

If you get the timing right, then I reckon the Fort Crags at Brean Down have just about the best introductory climbs in the area, but you have to get the timing right as the friendly part of the crag (the Red Slab area) is tidal (2-3 hours either side of low tide). The current Avon guide only describes an abseil approach but there is a straightforward scramble down to the west (the right as you look out to sea). Watch out for slippery boulders at the bottom if they're still wet and take a rope bag to avoid getting your ropes covered in Severn silt. Don't be put off by that though - the rock itself is grippy, juggy, solid and totally unpolished.

Alternatively I'd go either to Wintour's as suggested above, or Symonds Yat if that's not too far - the latter has plenty of easy routes and they're not all polished horrors! (though some undoubtedly are).

Cheers

Rick

In reply to Rick Sewards:

Which good easy routes aren't polished in your view at the yat? I found they almost all were, although they are mostly steep and juggy so it doesn't matter so much

In reply to Rick Sewards:

Joyce's Route (S 4a) at Symond's yat was very clean/nice route - but no pushover at the grade either.

In reply to purple sue:

Acoustic (VD) looks nice from the description, and also Cry Wolf (VD) but after that you are into S at Shorn