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Dave Birkett: a name synonymous with hard Lakeland mountain trad climbs. A dark horse who has rarely sought media attention, but one whose ascents and commentary on the UK climbing scene have often piqued our interest. A stonemason by trade, frequent sheep-rescuer, motorbike fanatic, and new Dad since last year, Dave describes himself - perhaps contrary to popular belief - rather nondescriptly as a "weekend warrior."
Having heard little about his climbing for a few years, Natalie Berry gave him a call to find out what he's been up to...
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Great interview. Love the insinuation that Dave Mac doesn't know a good line. Perhaps UKC could fund some sort of live stream Gladiators-style battle-off between the Daves.
Great interview. Love the insinuation that Dave Mac doesn't know a good line. Perhaps UKC could fund some sort of live stream Gladiators-style battle-off between the Daves.
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Genuinely humorous and entertaining interview with a guy who has something to say and is willing to say it. Very refreshing. Good stuff Dave/UKC!
Genuinely humorous and entertaining interview with a guy who has something to say and is willing to say it. Very refreshing. Good stuff Dave/UKC!
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In reply to UKC Articles:
"Yeah it'd be good to see...who are those crack climbers...the offwidth fellas - the one who looks like Freddie Mercury, what's he called? (Ed:Tom Randall)"
Genuinely laughed out loud at that!
"Yeah it'd be good to see...who are those crack climbers...the offwidth fellas - the one who looks like Freddie Mercury, what's he called? (Ed:Tom Randall)"
Genuinely laughed out loud at that!
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In reply to UKC Articles:
I found it unsettling.
And how on earth does he get from Glasgow to Carlisle or wherever it was at 119mph without passing a single speed camera. I can't go five miles without crossing one!
I found it unsettling.
And how on earth does he get from Glasgow to Carlisle or wherever it was at 119mph without passing a single speed camera. I can't go five miles without crossing one!
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In reply to andi turner:
Yes that bit jumped out at me too; it seemed a bit of an unwise thing to admit to in 'print'. I suspect very few of us can say hand on heart we never speed, but doing 50 over the limit I would imagine could get you into big trouble. :-/
Yes that bit jumped out at me too; it seemed a bit of an unwise thing to admit to in 'print'. I suspect very few of us can say hand on heart we never speed, but doing 50 over the limit I would imagine could get you into big trouble. :-/
In reply to Michael Gordon:
A lot of it.
I've always had a huge amount of respect for the climbing Dave has done, but just found a lot of what he had to say in this piece a bit condescending. He's probably completely different in real life, but from reading the piece I didn't really warm to him. Not sure whether it was the speeding bit, the Freddie jibe or something else but reading it perhaps reminded me of someone I'd find it awkward to be around, that's all.
> Which bit?
A lot of it.
I've always had a huge amount of respect for the climbing Dave has done, but just found a lot of what he had to say in this piece a bit condescending. He's probably completely different in real life, but from reading the piece I didn't really warm to him. Not sure whether it was the speeding bit, the Freddie jibe or something else but reading it perhaps reminded me of someone I'd find it awkward to be around, that's all.
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In reply to andi turner:
The Freddie bit I took as genuinely not remembering Tom's name. Re the "Scottish/English thing", I think he may have been a bit hurt by Dave Mac's comments about his Scafell routes.
Nat certainly did a good job getting him to speak so freely; I'm sure he didn't expect so much of it to be used!
The Freddie bit I took as genuinely not remembering Tom's name. Re the "Scottish/English thing", I think he may have been a bit hurt by Dave Mac's comments about his Scafell routes.
Nat certainly did a good job getting him to speak so freely; I'm sure he didn't expect so much of it to be used!
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In reply to andi turner:
Yes, yes, but for heavens sake. Aren't we all climbers ..? You know, risk, life, history ..?
Yes, yes, but for heavens sake. Aren't we all climbers ..? You know, risk, life, history ..?
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In reply to Michael Gordon:
Indeed, it is more than likely just how it comes across.
But from someone (me) who only has knowledge of his routes rather than his persona, it's just how it came across. I've read it again and still feel the same, not that it matters, it's only an opinion. I could've lied and just said "wow, what a great interview. legend!" or something....
It's hard to put my finger on it.
It's almost like the bike race is a metaphor for how he sees his climbing. Beating the old school "Hell's Angels" and then keeping up with the modern, technologically advanced Porsche whether in Scotland or England. As for the Freddie jibe, well that's maybe one of those things you think or say between friends. Or maybe he's actually just good friends with Tom and I'm missing the joke.
No denying his phenomenal climbing ability.
Indeed, it is more than likely just how it comes across.
But from someone (me) who only has knowledge of his routes rather than his persona, it's just how it came across. I've read it again and still feel the same, not that it matters, it's only an opinion. I could've lied and just said "wow, what a great interview. legend!" or something....
It's hard to put my finger on it.
It's almost like the bike race is a metaphor for how he sees his climbing. Beating the old school "Hell's Angels" and then keeping up with the modern, technologically advanced Porsche whether in Scotland or England. As for the Freddie jibe, well that's maybe one of those things you think or say between friends. Or maybe he's actually just good friends with Tom and I'm missing the joke.
No denying his phenomenal climbing ability.
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In reply to Skyfall:
So, you're sat in the beer garden. This bloke rolls up on his Triumph Sprint and his ashen passenger steps off the back. He then starts gobbing off about driving at 120mph on a shared road and realy showing those Hell's Angels and that bloke in the Porsche what's what before describing that bloke over there as looking like Hugh Fernley Whittingstall then laughing about it and saying it again, you know your REALLY do look like him!
I then turn to my kids, smiling admiringly at him and say "ahhhh, you know, risk, life, history"
So, you're sat in the beer garden. This bloke rolls up on his Triumph Sprint and his ashen passenger steps off the back. He then starts gobbing off about driving at 120mph on a shared road and realy showing those Hell's Angels and that bloke in the Porsche what's what before describing that bloke over there as looking like Hugh Fernley Whittingstall then laughing about it and saying it again, you know your REALLY do look like him!
I then turn to my kids, smiling admiringly at him and say "ahhhh, you know, risk, life, history"
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In reply to andi turner:
He genuinely couldn't remember Tom's name and it took us both a good while to figure out who he was on about. There were obviously some pauses which don't come across in the same way in the text!
He genuinely couldn't remember Tom's name and it took us both a good while to figure out who he was on about. There were obviously some pauses which don't come across in the same way in the text!
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In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:
Finally something worth reading on UKC and then ..............the moaning starts! I don't know Dave but know people who do and all speak highly of him. I even know of two young lads from the southwest who were lent his guidebook by his wife who they bumped into out climbing. She said to return it to the address in the front. When they did so it they were fed and ended up staying the night. He pointed them to various things that they might enjoy and they came away a little richer for the experience.
Dave is the panacea for the boring grade chasing, training, robotic dullness often reported on here. I'm not advocating speed limit breaking but it is refreshing to read an interview that does contain an actual representation of character and personality, whether you like it or not. Climbing in Britain has always had its' share of larger than life, interesting characters. These people have made British climbing the rich and diverse canvas it is today and I for one (perhaps a lone voice) welcome them. Well done on a great article. More of this please!
James
Finally something worth reading on UKC and then ..............the moaning starts! I don't know Dave but know people who do and all speak highly of him. I even know of two young lads from the southwest who were lent his guidebook by his wife who they bumped into out climbing. She said to return it to the address in the front. When they did so it they were fed and ended up staying the night. He pointed them to various things that they might enjoy and they came away a little richer for the experience.
Dave is the panacea for the boring grade chasing, training, robotic dullness often reported on here. I'm not advocating speed limit breaking but it is refreshing to read an interview that does contain an actual representation of character and personality, whether you like it or not. Climbing in Britain has always had its' share of larger than life, interesting characters. These people have made British climbing the rich and diverse canvas it is today and I for one (perhaps a lone voice) welcome them. Well done on a great article. More of this please!
James
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In reply to Peter Walker:
I'm only trying to explain why it made me feel uneasy.
Like I said earlier: massive respect for his climbs and ability but can't really defend some of his statements. If someone went past me at 120, with a passenger, chasing a Porsche I wouldn't think "wow" I'd think something much more appropriate. It would only confirm my thoughts if I later heard them bragging about it.
I'd thrash him in a race anyway
I'm only trying to explain why it made me feel uneasy.
Like I said earlier: massive respect for his climbs and ability but can't really defend some of his statements. If someone went past me at 120, with a passenger, chasing a Porsche I wouldn't think "wow" I'd think something much more appropriate. It would only confirm my thoughts if I later heard them bragging about it.
I'd thrash him in a race anyway
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In reply to andi turner:
All I was commenting on was the speeding. It seems a little odd to heavily criticise it on a climbing website (to me at least) but I agree the interview comes across a little oddly although I think that's because it's trying to show something different to the normal fairly bland interviews.
All I was commenting on was the speeding. It seems a little odd to heavily criticise it on a climbing website (to me at least) but I agree the interview comes across a little oddly although I think that's because it's trying to show something different to the normal fairly bland interviews.
Post edited at 09:45
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In reply to james mann:
I'm not moaning, just not "all hail".
Do what you like when you're climbing, let that do the talking.
it's almost double the speed limit. Maybe if he'd said he flew past the school at 55 you'd have a different opinion. It's ok though, he's "larger than life".
I'm not moaning, just not "all hail".
Do what you like when you're climbing, let that do the talking.
it's almost double the speed limit. Maybe if he'd said he flew past the school at 55 you'd have a different opinion. It's ok though, he's "larger than life".
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In reply to andi turner:
>I could've lied and just said "wow, what a great interview. legend!" or something....
I think it's a great interview, how ever it comes across. Much more interesting than most which usually consist of facts and figures about the route they're being asked about (how long they spent on it, gear etc) plus a 'great day out' comment.
>I could've lied and just said "wow, what a great interview. legend!" or something....
>
I think it's a great interview, how ever it comes across. Much more interesting than most which usually consist of facts and figures about the route they're being asked about (how long they spent on it, gear etc) plus a 'great day out' comment.
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In reply to andi turner:
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That doesn't make for very interesting interviews!
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> Do what you like when you're climbing, let that do the talking.
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>
That doesn't make for very interesting interviews!
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In reply to andi turner:
I think you've missed the point. I did write this:
I'm not advocating speed limit breaking but it is refreshing to read an interview that does contain an actual representation of character and personality,
If you didn't enjoy it, didn't understand his viewpoint, disagreed with his words and actions, didn't understand why others enjoyed it, that's fine. I just enjoyed a break from the bland, formulaic; warmed up, didn't feel that strong, had a go anyway, some how did it, so happy, thanks to my sponsors for making it possible, dullness which pervades large elements of our climbing press.
Anyway, to each their own
James
I think you've missed the point. I did write this:
I'm not advocating speed limit breaking but it is refreshing to read an interview that does contain an actual representation of character and personality,
If you didn't enjoy it, didn't understand his viewpoint, disagreed with his words and actions, didn't understand why others enjoyed it, that's fine. I just enjoyed a break from the bland, formulaic; warmed up, didn't feel that strong, had a go anyway, some how did it, so happy, thanks to my sponsors for making it possible, dullness which pervades large elements of our climbing press.
Anyway, to each their own
James
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In reply to andi turner:
It obviously made quite a few take notice! (I'm not condoning the speeding)
It obviously made quite a few take notice! (I'm not condoning the speeding)
In reply to james mann:
I certainly don't understand his viewpoint.
I said it made me uneasy. Probably because I had a good deal of respect for him before reading it, but now I know him a little more, I've lost a lot of that respect.
I certainly don't understand his viewpoint.
I said it made me uneasy. Probably because I had a good deal of respect for him before reading it, but now I know him a little more, I've lost a lot of that respect.
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In reply to andi turner:
It might be best if you had a few pints with Dave or share an easy or hard session on the crags or boulders.
I have known Dave since he was 19 and climbing E5 before realising how to use his feet.
He is passionate about everything he with which he is involved, hyper, truthful but never disrespecting.
Before after or during alcohol intake he delights in extrapolating concepts.
His wife, Mary, is a master of controlling him, " Dave _____ you might have just taken things a bit too far now . "
Although the M74/ M6 speeding is indefensible, never heard a bad word about Dave from anybody who has met him.
> I certainly don't understand his viewpoint.
> I said it made me uneasy. Probably because I had a good deal of respect for him before reading it, but now I know him a little more, I've lost a lot of that respect.
It might be best if you had a few pints with Dave or share an easy or hard session on the crags or boulders.
I have known Dave since he was 19 and climbing E5 before realising how to use his feet.
He is passionate about everything he with which he is involved, hyper, truthful but never disrespecting.
Before after or during alcohol intake he delights in extrapolating concepts.
His wife, Mary, is a master of controlling him, " Dave _____ you might have just taken things a bit too far now . "
Although the M74/ M6 speeding is indefensible, never heard a bad word about Dave from anybody who has met him.
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In reply to Rick Graham: Didn't his missus mention his 'small brain syndrome' on the Set In Stone DVD?
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In reply to UKC Articles:
It's interesting how some have chosen to focus on the speeding aspect. Personally, I was more unsettled by his self-declared enthusiasm for 'rescuing' sheep at remote Lakeland crags.
It's interesting how some have chosen to focus on the speeding aspect. Personally, I was more unsettled by his self-declared enthusiasm for 'rescuing' sheep at remote Lakeland crags.
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In reply to Rick Graham:
Of course, and I'm sure that's the case. I'm positive he's a loving dad, a passionate and excellent climber and I bet he's really great on a motorbike.
It made me uneasy, nothing more.
Probably similar to if someone had been interviewed and said they'd knocked 4 or 5 pints back before driving home. No harm done though, eh...
Of course, and I'm sure that's the case. I'm positive he's a loving dad, a passionate and excellent climber and I bet he's really great on a motorbike.
It made me uneasy, nothing more.
Probably similar to if someone had been interviewed and said they'd knocked 4 or 5 pints back before driving home. No harm done though, eh...
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In reply to andi turner:
A few years ago I was belaying someone on an E2 at St Govans. I glanced across and saw that Dave Birkett was belaying his mate on another E2. We had a really enjoyable chat, he was as nice a bloke as you could meet.
A few years ago I was belaying someone on an E2 at St Govans. I glanced across and saw that Dave Birkett was belaying his mate on another E2. We had a really enjoyable chat, he was as nice a bloke as you could meet.
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In reply to Clauso:
When I lived in the Lakes, Dave was my hero (he really is a nice bloke btw). One day at a crag in Borrowdale, we came across a stranded sheep, and inspired by Mr. Birkett, decided to effect a rescue. I set up a redirected belay above the sheep, and took my mate tight as he pendulumed across to the sheep, which duly leaped from the ledge it was on. Luckily, the swing enabled my friend to catch the sheep in mid-air. At this point my friend started screaming and shouting, as the sheep began to forcefully piss all over him. Quickly I lowered them down, the sheep trotted off and my mate swore never to rescue any of the ungrateful little buggers ever again!
> Personally, I was more unsettled by his self-declared enthusiasm for 'rescuing' sheep at remote Lakeland crags.
When I lived in the Lakes, Dave was my hero (he really is a nice bloke btw). One day at a crag in Borrowdale, we came across a stranded sheep, and inspired by Mr. Birkett, decided to effect a rescue. I set up a redirected belay above the sheep, and took my mate tight as he pendulumed across to the sheep, which duly leaped from the ledge it was on. Luckily, the swing enabled my friend to catch the sheep in mid-air. At this point my friend started screaming and shouting, as the sheep began to forcefully piss all over him. Quickly I lowered them down, the sheep trotted off and my mate swore never to rescue any of the ungrateful little buggers ever again!
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In reply to UKC Articles:
What I really like about this interview is that it is with a stonemason who is a family man & proud father and happens to climb really hard climbs at 'weekends'. It is much more interesting than those bland interviews with a sponsored rock athlete who happens to have succeeded on an obscure boulder somewhere.
What I really like about this interview is that it is with a stonemason who is a family man & proud father and happens to climb really hard climbs at 'weekends'. It is much more interesting than those bland interviews with a sponsored rock athlete who happens to have succeeded on an obscure boulder somewhere.
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In reply to keith-ratcliffe:
He's never been exactly unsponsored, though, has he ? at least by UK standards (IE fleeces, rucksacs and climbing shoes)
> It is much more interesting than those bland interviews with a sponsored rock athlete ...
He's never been exactly unsponsored, though, has he ? at least by UK standards (IE fleeces, rucksacs and climbing shoes)
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Apart from the stuff that makes people uneasy in the interview, I did like the bit on grades.
Apart from the stuff that makes people uneasy in the interview, I did like the bit on grades.
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In reply to UKC Articles:
Has anyone got a link to what happened when he did Hold Fast at Glen Nevis. I don't remember the controversy.
Has anyone got a link to what happened when he did Hold Fast at Glen Nevis. I don't remember the controversy.
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In reply to andi turner:
But it wasn't passing a school was it! Probably the quietest motorway in the country, so whilst still not right, it's on a different level so unfair to compare. We all do things wrong from time to time, the refreshing thing about this interview is that Dave is quite happy to talk openly about it, I don't think it's bragging at all, just a tale about his day. And so much better being not just climbing focused, but about the whole experience.
Nice one Natalie and Dave
But it wasn't passing a school was it! Probably the quietest motorway in the country, so whilst still not right, it's on a different level so unfair to compare. We all do things wrong from time to time, the refreshing thing about this interview is that Dave is quite happy to talk openly about it, I don't think it's bragging at all, just a tale about his day. And so much better being not just climbing focused, but about the whole experience.
Nice one Natalie and Dave
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In reply to GrahamD:
Wasn't it him who invented climbing product placement by naming a new route after his sponsored boots?
> He's never been exactly unsponsored, though, has he ? at least by UK standards (IE fleeces, rucksacs and climbing shoes)
Wasn't it him who invented climbing product placement by naming a new route after his sponsored boots?
In reply to Glenn Sutcliffe:
Ah, yes, probably. It was back in the 80s I think.
I've met Dave a couple of times and he seems a nice enough guy to me. I knew Mary from our time in South Africa and she's a very good climber in her own right, of course.
Anyway, at least Asolo is climbing related, which seems fair enough considering the whole crag is named after a deodorant.
Ah, yes, probably. It was back in the 80s I think.
I've met Dave a couple of times and he seems a nice enough guy to me. I knew Mary from our time in South Africa and she's a very good climber in her own right, of course.
Anyway, at least Asolo is climbing related, which seems fair enough considering the whole crag is named after a deodorant.
Post edited at 12:53
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In reply to Dave Garnett:
Deodorant?
> Anyway, at least Asolo is climbing related, which seems fair enough considering the whole crag is named after a deodorant.
Deodorant?
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