UKC

Belay on Wings of Unreason

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 PaulTanton 18 Jul 2016
What do people belay atop of WingsTrack of the cat?
Assuming you get to the top.
I did see a wire slot on top of Track of the Cat, But that was it.
Post edited at 21:51

 MischaHY 18 Jul 2016
In reply to PaulTanton:

There's wire placements on either side, run parallel ropes and belay from an alpine butterfly.
4
 deacondeacon 18 Jul 2016
In reply to PaulTanton:
From memory There is a block you can go around a long, long way back from the edge. ( seem to remember it being about 30 metres away but it may be further).
If I was climbing it again I'd probably just hunker down with my bum on the path or even just start belaying ten metres from the edge and just keep walking backwards.
You Can always have an extra person up top on the rope too, but obviously most people climb in a two.

I'll probably get a load of dislikes for that lot but when there's no belay there's no belay
OP PaulTanton 18 Jul 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:
Thanks. I like

 UKC Forums 18 Jul 2016
This thread was started in the ROCKFAX forum and has now been moved.
Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

ROCKTALK
A general forum for topics relating to climbing. This is the place to debate things like specific routes, ethics, grading, styles of ascent, top roping, headpointing, bouldering, bolts, the latest news and anything else that you have an opinion on. The only caveat is that the topic shouldn't be too trivial, keep the really light-hearted climbing stuff in the Pub.

More Forum descriptions - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/info/forums.html
 jkarran 18 Jul 2016
In reply to PaulTanton:
To bring up a second you just sit in the hollow of the crag top path. There's some out of position gear up there though if you insist, my memory is hazy but I think you'd be sat a little off the line, I'm sure I remember being up there tied to something.
jk
Post edited at 23:21
 Michael Hood 19 Jul 2016
In reply to PaulTanton:

I've sat in the grass for Prelude... so I presume it's similar for Wings.

If you think about the friction then there's no way you're going to be pulled by someone seconding (unless they're very fit )
 andi turner 19 Jul 2016
In reply to PaulTanton:

Sit in the path, it works great.

If you place the runners at the edge of the buttress then you'd end up with your ropes running at about 160 degrees, which isn't cool.
 JamieSparkes Global Crag Moderator 19 Jul 2016
In reply to PaulTanton:

It's the classic 'two large friends in the heather' belay! I've only ever Abbed for the gear after everyone has led it. Much easier - just equalise your mates and make them promise not to stand up!
 deacondeacon 19 Jul 2016
In reply to MischaHY:

F**k that.
1
 MeMeMe 19 Jul 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

Yeah, I think youre right, I'm pretty sure there's a boulder miles and miles back from the edge, just across the other side of the path (I seem to remember feeling a bit guilty about putting a rope across the path but on the other hand I couldn't find ought else!)

 Dave Garnett 19 Jul 2016
In reply to PaulTanton:

As everyone has said, it's perfectly safe for belaying from the top - as long as you don't sit right on the edge, obviously!

It's very well designed because what you can't easily do is arrange a bottom rope, which discourages excessive toproping...
In reply to deacondeacon:

> From memory There is a block you can go around a long, long way back from the edge. ( seem to remember it being about 30 metres away but it may be further).

That's what I did. I remember looking at those parallel wire placements and thinking, as per Andi, that 160 degrees was probably not the optimal angle.

> If I was climbing it again I'd probably just hunker down with my bum on the path or even just start belaying ten metres from the edge and just keep walking backwards.

I leave this sort of behaviour for winter climbing



 ChrisBrooke 19 Jul 2016
 The Grist 19 Jul 2016
In reply to PaulTanton:

Like others I also just sat on the path well back from the crag. I put a sling round a largish rock that moved around. That was all I could find. it worked fine. My mate did fall off and the weight was not an issue.
incidentally Tom did a similarly rubbish belay on top of Warpath. He just jumped over a wall and stood behind it belaying not attached to anything. .
 galpinos 19 Jul 2016
In reply to PaulTanton:

As others have said, it's the quickest belay you'll ever set up. Top out, walk to the path, turn round, sit down, take in.

Not only easy and simple, it has a lovely traditional feel.
 MischaHY 19 Jul 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

Eh, worked fine every time I've been up there.
 Graham Hoey 21 Jul 2016
In reply to MischaHY:
I know there used to be Wallabys and a Yak, but I've never seen an alpine butterfly up there, and I doubt their holding power!

Yep, good wire slots either end of the buttress.

cheers

Graham
Post edited at 10:53
 galpinos 21 Jul 2016
In reply to MischaHY:

The wires work, but it's a lot more faff than just sitting down!

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