UKC

The description for Gull Rock contains a vague warning that hints at either dodgy ab anchors or loose rock.

Gull Rock - Marsland

"Intermediate Warning: A serious accident occurred on this crag in May 2015. The reasons have not been established so until the cause is known please take care on route selection and when abseiling."

Does anyone know if this is still in force, and if so what I should be specifically avoiding?

In reply to davidbeynon:

Climbed there in April. Abseil anchors are absolutely fine and the rock is solid (for the Culm Coast!). However the E1's now look like solos as the pegs that once protected them have either rusted away or are in such a bad state they're barely worth clipping.

Argonaught Direct (HVS 4c) is basically a solo, can imagine falling off that being petty serious. Aside from that the other sub E1 routes are really well protected and solid.

In reply to JackM92:

Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks!

In reply to davidbeynon:


This is the culm coast. Gull Rock is well towards the cuddly end of the spectrum hereabouts but this would seem to be pretty good advice generally.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

There is that, but putting an extra warning in the crag page does imply that there is something specific beyond the usual sea cliff entertainment.

In reply to davidbeynon:

As co-author of the forthcoming CC North Devon and Cornwall guide I have been out to Gull Rock on two or three occasions since that accident, especially as it occurred soon after another fatal accident at Compass Point , the latter due to a major rock fall that destroyed most of Caravanserai HVS.

As far as I am aware and I have not seen a coroner's report, the climber fell from near the top of one of the VS routes at the LH end of the main slab, and his runners failed. There are some perched blocks at the top of Solid Air etc. but when I was there I did not see any obvious signs of recent rock fall or loss of holds.In my opinion the routes have not been affected in any significant way.

As has been pointed out above, generally speaking the rock on the main slab is sound, but the peg on Crazy Streak has gone and will not be replaced as there are micro placements available. Walking On The Moon still has a reasonable peg at the halfway foot ledge but again there is adequate alternative protection available. The belay and abs station has been recently renewed with 11mm rope and a plan to replace this with a s/s cable is currently under discussion.
It is worth repeating that any fixed pegs on any sea cliffs should be treated with the utmost caution.

In reply to Iain Peters:


I take great care of old culm coast pegs - I keep them on my office mantelpiece.