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Actually, quite a lot depressed! I have a distant memory of my Mojo leaving the building whilst muttering something about 'being gone for some time'.
I've lost my way a little over the whole year, banged a knee and had a nerve issue in my left arm last year but got past both and trucked on. I've had a 'niggle' in my right shoulder that I've just laughed at up to now but generally nothing serious has gone wrong. Everything has stayed a bit level, although I feel like I understand better what I'm doing right or wrong.
Training wise I've always been a bit chaotic and decided to buckle down and actually start some basic strength training - only it just made my shoulder worse! (Which I still ignored). I stopped doing fit club here after a chest infection but I did restart running and wasn't climbing less, maybe less hard though?
I've also had loads of chances to go outdoors, and bar 2 occasions have taken them all. It hasn't gone well though, I'm still unbelievably scared, still hugely/destructively disappointed in myself both in climbing and in dealing with being scared. I've wanted to quit, except I don't want to quit, I want to get better. I want to get better because I adore being outside, I've loved climbing, loved learning and my daughter is totally in love with outdoor climbing!
The people I've been climbing with have been awesome, weirdly the kinder and more supportive they are the more my head argues with everything encouraging said and just goes on an all out onslaught. I only want to be an ok climber, not Hazel Findlay - just ok, but I suck. I also suck at sucking with any dignity.
Indoors I've just struggled but nothing I can put my finger on, my comp scores are low - so low I haven't even waited to see what others got and still haven't looked! I'm not enjoying the comps as much but that just makes me think I'm being mardi due to not doing so well.
I did realise something last week, I realised I was climbing around using my right shoulder and just how painful it is to use fully - on the upside that has motivated me to actually do the exercises I should have been doing all along. I hope improving that gives my indoor climbing a bit of a boost.
I guess if you just read all of that you're either very bored or maybe had a bit the same at some point? Climbing has been a real salvation for me, stopped me smoking, got me running and has given me incredible pleasure and I really miss that. Any idea of how to locate a missing mojo?
I've lost my way a little over the whole year, banged a knee and had a nerve issue in my left arm last year but got past both and trucked on. I've had a 'niggle' in my right shoulder that I've just laughed at up to now but generally nothing serious has gone wrong. Everything has stayed a bit level, although I feel like I understand better what I'm doing right or wrong.
Training wise I've always been a bit chaotic and decided to buckle down and actually start some basic strength training - only it just made my shoulder worse! (Which I still ignored). I stopped doing fit club here after a chest infection but I did restart running and wasn't climbing less, maybe less hard though?
I've also had loads of chances to go outdoors, and bar 2 occasions have taken them all. It hasn't gone well though, I'm still unbelievably scared, still hugely/destructively disappointed in myself both in climbing and in dealing with being scared. I've wanted to quit, except I don't want to quit, I want to get better. I want to get better because I adore being outside, I've loved climbing, loved learning and my daughter is totally in love with outdoor climbing!
The people I've been climbing with have been awesome, weirdly the kinder and more supportive they are the more my head argues with everything encouraging said and just goes on an all out onslaught. I only want to be an ok climber, not Hazel Findlay - just ok, but I suck. I also suck at sucking with any dignity.
Indoors I've just struggled but nothing I can put my finger on, my comp scores are low - so low I haven't even waited to see what others got and still haven't looked! I'm not enjoying the comps as much but that just makes me think I'm being mardi due to not doing so well.
I did realise something last week, I realised I was climbing around using my right shoulder and just how painful it is to use fully - on the upside that has motivated me to actually do the exercises I should have been doing all along. I hope improving that gives my indoor climbing a bit of a boost.
I guess if you just read all of that you're either very bored or maybe had a bit the same at some point? Climbing has been a real salvation for me, stopped me smoking, got me running and has given me incredible pleasure and I really miss that. Any idea of how to locate a missing mojo?
11
In reply to flopsicle:
I sympathise with your predicament about being scared outside. What started my climbing was being on great low grade trad routes outside. But I was a rubbish climber and i always felt the fear. So I trained hard indoors to get better and i thought that that would solve the problem. I am now a keen indoor boulderer and i still go outside. I am a much much better climber than before but i still feel the fear. I have realised that being a better climber does not stop you being scared outside. I think that the key here is probably mileage. Like most people I have very little time for outside trad and so instead of spending quality relaxing enjoyable time on low grade routes within my comfort zone to build confidence the temptation is always to try and keep up with my partner or try something that little bit harder. This is probably a mistake as it is easy to set up a cycle of demotivation like the one you are in. For me now I crank hard inside and go outside to enjoy the scenery and i enjoy the experience a lot better. Cant help you with the injuries. I intentionally limit my bouldering to ensure that i remain injury free. hope some of that helps.
I sympathise with your predicament about being scared outside. What started my climbing was being on great low grade trad routes outside. But I was a rubbish climber and i always felt the fear. So I trained hard indoors to get better and i thought that that would solve the problem. I am now a keen indoor boulderer and i still go outside. I am a much much better climber than before but i still feel the fear. I have realised that being a better climber does not stop you being scared outside. I think that the key here is probably mileage. Like most people I have very little time for outside trad and so instead of spending quality relaxing enjoyable time on low grade routes within my comfort zone to build confidence the temptation is always to try and keep up with my partner or try something that little bit harder. This is probably a mistake as it is easy to set up a cycle of demotivation like the one you are in. For me now I crank hard inside and go outside to enjoy the scenery and i enjoy the experience a lot better. Cant help you with the injuries. I intentionally limit my bouldering to ensure that i remain injury free. hope some of that helps.
4
In reply to flopsicle:
How was climbing outside for your shoulder? Indoor climbing is generally a lot harder on the body, because it's usually steeper and you do more volume in shorter time compared to climbing outdoors. So maybe keep getting out, but do less indoor climbing (or stop completely) while your shoulder is still healing.
How was climbing outside for your shoulder? Indoor climbing is generally a lot harder on the body, because it's usually steeper and you do more volume in shorter time compared to climbing outdoors. So maybe keep getting out, but do less indoor climbing (or stop completely) while your shoulder is still healing.
3
In reply to flopsicle:
Being frightened is normal, I am frightened most of the time. I enjoy it. Go and see a hypotheripist that should help. It helped me improve at the age of 46. Chin up.
Being frightened is normal, I am frightened most of the time. I enjoy it. Go and see a hypotheripist that should help. It helped me improve at the age of 46. Chin up.
5
In reply to david100:
Time is a huge issue. Until very recently it's been either:
a) Travel to climb and therefore not have time to actually climb
b) Whip down the road and climb indoors = being able to climb solidly for 2 or 3 hours
I also sometimes have an 8 yr old tagging along, not always planned either. On days when I have enough time to travel and actually do something she isn't in school so plans need to either be flexible or include her if her Dad lets her down. The group I'm climbing with now are all pretty good, or at least confident. I have a couple of friends who've started and we're having a day re top roping but they won't go regularly - I'm hopeful it could lead to some really comfy chilled days ahead though. I'd top rope bloody scrambles if it got me to relax!
Mileage is a massive issue. Indoors I can slog away at something that scares me - leading scared me but every weds night an old boy kindly turns up and belays me for 2 hrs so I could slog away at it. My indoor leading isn't going to set the world alight but it's vastly improved from where I was. If I'm disappointed with myself on an indoor route I have the option of repeating it till I get it right - if I can get up once that is! All that said, I fully realise that everyone faces the problem that bulk is harder to achieve outdoors, it doesn't really excuse my being a big girls blouse pansy bum!
I don't think the injury thing is a real biggy, if anything I'm kind of hopeful that if I actually mend my ways and work to sort it, then there may be a bit of a boost in store - I have been climbing round it for a long while.
Time is a huge issue. Until very recently it's been either:
a) Travel to climb and therefore not have time to actually climb
b) Whip down the road and climb indoors = being able to climb solidly for 2 or 3 hours
I also sometimes have an 8 yr old tagging along, not always planned either. On days when I have enough time to travel and actually do something she isn't in school so plans need to either be flexible or include her if her Dad lets her down. The group I'm climbing with now are all pretty good, or at least confident. I have a couple of friends who've started and we're having a day re top roping but they won't go regularly - I'm hopeful it could lead to some really comfy chilled days ahead though. I'd top rope bloody scrambles if it got me to relax!
Mileage is a massive issue. Indoors I can slog away at something that scares me - leading scared me but every weds night an old boy kindly turns up and belays me for 2 hrs so I could slog away at it. My indoor leading isn't going to set the world alight but it's vastly improved from where I was. If I'm disappointed with myself on an indoor route I have the option of repeating it till I get it right - if I can get up once that is! All that said, I fully realise that everyone faces the problem that bulk is harder to achieve outdoors, it doesn't really excuse my being a big girls blouse pansy bum!
I don't think the injury thing is a real biggy, if anything I'm kind of hopeful that if I actually mend my ways and work to sort it, then there may be a bit of a boost in store - I have been climbing round it for a long while.
In reply to Kirill:
If my arms fell off I would climb feet only! I suspect I may be a teensy weensy bit of an addict. One session a week I have an indoor/outdoor choice (weather and life pending), the other 2 (or 3...) it's indoors or nowt and nowt is not an option.
FWIW - yup no problem with shoulder outdoors, but then I haven't been since my epiphany that I just figure ways not to brace off my shoulders or lift my arm up behind me.
If my arms fell off I would climb feet only! I suspect I may be a teensy weensy bit of an addict. One session a week I have an indoor/outdoor choice (weather and life pending), the other 2 (or 3...) it's indoors or nowt and nowt is not an option.
FWIW - yup no problem with shoulder outdoors, but then I haven't been since my epiphany that I just figure ways not to brace off my shoulders or lift my arm up behind me.
In reply to JimHolmes69:
My cartoon brain imagines a Wowcher special offer back firing and my ending up believing I'm a chicken at the foot of a crag! Hypnotism is well scary!
My cartoon brain imagines a Wowcher special offer back firing and my ending up believing I'm a chicken at the foot of a crag! Hypnotism is well scary!
Post edited at 16:02
In reply to flopsicle:
It's a vicious circle when you heap pressure on yourself to do well, and that pressure prevents you from doing well, so I'd say the first steps to recovering mojo are:
1) try to focus less on performance and more on having fun - climb easy stuff, spend a bit of time just seconding, or even spend a couple of days at the crag just hanging out having a laugh, jugging up fixed ropes to take photographs of your mates, etc... whatever it takes to be in a nice place with nice people and avoid the pressure to perform.
2) practice self-compassion. It's OK to be scared, and it's OK to not be climbing as hard as you may have been in the past. Imagine what you would say and how you would feel towards a friend in the same situation, and try to say and feel the same way towards yourself. It's not an easy thing to do, but it does get easier with practice.
If you're genuinely depressed and/or the above doesn't help, speak to a counsellor... talking things through with someone you don't have a prior relationship with, and in a safe place where the conversation won't leave the room, can really help make connections as to why you react in certain ways.
At some point, if you want to get over the fear you'll have to start doing outdoor falling practice, but all that can just become counter-productive if you don't fall in love with climbing again first, and get your head in a place where it's OK to "fail" at falling practice too.
It's a vicious circle when you heap pressure on yourself to do well, and that pressure prevents you from doing well, so I'd say the first steps to recovering mojo are:
1) try to focus less on performance and more on having fun - climb easy stuff, spend a bit of time just seconding, or even spend a couple of days at the crag just hanging out having a laugh, jugging up fixed ropes to take photographs of your mates, etc... whatever it takes to be in a nice place with nice people and avoid the pressure to perform.
2) practice self-compassion. It's OK to be scared, and it's OK to not be climbing as hard as you may have been in the past. Imagine what you would say and how you would feel towards a friend in the same situation, and try to say and feel the same way towards yourself. It's not an easy thing to do, but it does get easier with practice.
If you're genuinely depressed and/or the above doesn't help, speak to a counsellor... talking things through with someone you don't have a prior relationship with, and in a safe place where the conversation won't leave the room, can really help make connections as to why you react in certain ways.
At some point, if you want to get over the fear you'll have to start doing outdoor falling practice, but all that can just become counter-productive if you don't fall in love with climbing again first, and get your head in a place where it's OK to "fail" at falling practice too.
10
In reply to flopsicle:
Everyone seems so confident on here when you're feeling frustrated with your climbing, but we all go through patches of self-doubt and feel the fear at some point.
I've found getting into yoga has helped my head out loads. You get strong and flexible, but also, crucially, you hold the poses for a long time. This makes you do strenuous things but you make yourself relax at the same time. This helped me 'zone out' the fear and just concentrate on moving my body.
If you can find the time, I definitely recommend trying it for a month and see how you go. Of course, it might not be the best thing for your shoulder at this point. Any long-term injury is going to hit your confidence and should be sorted out first.
Everyone seems so confident on here when you're feeling frustrated with your climbing, but we all go through patches of self-doubt and feel the fear at some point.
I've found getting into yoga has helped my head out loads. You get strong and flexible, but also, crucially, you hold the poses for a long time. This makes you do strenuous things but you make yourself relax at the same time. This helped me 'zone out' the fear and just concentrate on moving my body.
If you can find the time, I definitely recommend trying it for a month and see how you go. Of course, it might not be the best thing for your shoulder at this point. Any long-term injury is going to hit your confidence and should be sorted out first.
In reply to flopsicle:
How to find a missing mojo...
Stop fussing, stop stressing. It'll come back when it's ready. In the meantime, do other things. Go for walks, go to the hills, go running, scrambling, whatever you feel like doing. When climbing feels like a duty, when it stresses you, when you do it because you think you should be enjoying it but finally realise you aren't, then it's time to walk away for a while.
Go back to basics. Do what you don't do because you go climbing. Please yourself, and take pleasure in that. We all get out of balance once in a while so take the time to get back on the level.
The drive will come back but it has to find you; you can't find it. So have a bit of downtime. You'll be upwardly mobile soon enough.
T.
How to find a missing mojo...
Stop fussing, stop stressing. It'll come back when it's ready. In the meantime, do other things. Go for walks, go to the hills, go running, scrambling, whatever you feel like doing. When climbing feels like a duty, when it stresses you, when you do it because you think you should be enjoying it but finally realise you aren't, then it's time to walk away for a while.
Go back to basics. Do what you don't do because you go climbing. Please yourself, and take pleasure in that. We all get out of balance once in a while so take the time to get back on the level.
The drive will come back but it has to find you; you can't find it. So have a bit of downtime. You'll be upwardly mobile soon enough.
T.
4
In reply to flopsicle:
My 2p - set some goals. Write a list of 50 routes you need to lead before you turn 50. I don't know what your previous best lead grade was, or whether you believe you can improve on that - but I'd set the bar high. Spread the 50 routes over the grades (starting with a few D/VD you've always wanted to do) and the country. Then set yourself a realistic roadmap of when you should be able to lead each grade, and get to work!
Get yourself psyched for these routes (for me it's Cenotaph corner, Dream of White Horses, The Sloth, etc) - and keep them in mind while you're training, and more importantly - when you're not training. Try to always remind yourself during your down periods of what you're training for. Try to remember when it all feels futile that a dripping tap can still fill a bucket.
Hope some of that helps
My 2p - set some goals. Write a list of 50 routes you need to lead before you turn 50. I don't know what your previous best lead grade was, or whether you believe you can improve on that - but I'd set the bar high. Spread the 50 routes over the grades (starting with a few D/VD you've always wanted to do) and the country. Then set yourself a realistic roadmap of when you should be able to lead each grade, and get to work!
Get yourself psyched for these routes (for me it's Cenotaph corner, Dream of White Horses, The Sloth, etc) - and keep them in mind while you're training, and more importantly - when you're not training. Try to always remind yourself during your down periods of what you're training for. Try to remember when it all feels futile that a dripping tap can still fill a bucket.
Hope some of that helps
1
In reply to flopsicle:
Don't enter competitions then? I don't think I have ever entered one - I know precisely how crap I am at climbing indoors, without putting it up for public delectation. If the game upsets you, don't play - do the problems you like the look of but don't keep score.
For me, climbing is the major obsession in my life - all my holidays and every weekend. But it is still only the most important unimportant thing. I spend the entire horrible working week looking forward to the weekend I get to spend at the crag (or at the wall in winter).... and more often than not come away having gained nothing but sore fingertips
An example, the weekend before last, after months of effort I fell off the last hard move of my project 4 times - I was elated by the progress, devastated by the lost opportunity. Last weekend, I went backwards - well short of that high-point! Hey ho... I was very annoyed at the time but the thing with climbing is that the failures are trivial and it's not as though success gets you anywhere. If I had ticked my project, I would likely only have started work on a very similar route a metre to the left. I tell myself that and it seems less of a bad thing.... although hopefully it will spur me to pull myself together and get back on my currently cobwebbed fingerboard.
What I am trying to say, is keep a sense of perspective - climbing is just a means of filling in the empty hours. Do not try to use it as a panacea for genuine problem, but equally do not take its vagaries to heart. Accept that there are good times and bad with climbing - but the bad is trivial (barring serious injury). So, keep at it and the mojo should return as there is rarely anything concrete or serious about the whole affair - a nice day in conditions, an unexpected success pulling on some plastic blobs, can be all it takes.
> Indoors I've just struggled but nothing I can put my finger on, my comp scores are low - so low I haven't even waited to see what others got and still haven't looked! I'm not enjoying the comps as much but that just makes me think I'm being mardi due to not doing so well.
Don't enter competitions then? I don't think I have ever entered one - I know precisely how crap I am at climbing indoors, without putting it up for public delectation. If the game upsets you, don't play - do the problems you like the look of but don't keep score.
For me, climbing is the major obsession in my life - all my holidays and every weekend. But it is still only the most important unimportant thing. I spend the entire horrible working week looking forward to the weekend I get to spend at the crag (or at the wall in winter).... and more often than not come away having gained nothing but sore fingertips
An example, the weekend before last, after months of effort I fell off the last hard move of my project 4 times - I was elated by the progress, devastated by the lost opportunity. Last weekend, I went backwards - well short of that high-point! Hey ho... I was very annoyed at the time but the thing with climbing is that the failures are trivial and it's not as though success gets you anywhere. If I had ticked my project, I would likely only have started work on a very similar route a metre to the left. I tell myself that and it seems less of a bad thing.... although hopefully it will spur me to pull myself together and get back on my currently cobwebbed fingerboard.
What I am trying to say, is keep a sense of perspective - climbing is just a means of filling in the empty hours. Do not try to use it as a panacea for genuine problem, but equally do not take its vagaries to heart. Accept that there are good times and bad with climbing - but the bad is trivial (barring serious injury). So, keep at it and the mojo should return as there is rarely anything concrete or serious about the whole affair - a nice day in conditions, an unexpected success pulling on some plastic blobs, can be all it takes.
Post edited at 19:32
10
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
I hear you. There's just one small problem, I was scared of moves at the top of the bouldering wall (still am sometimes but more rationally), in fact when I started I wouldn't make a dodgy move indoors on a top rope! And from where I was at to where I'm now indoor leading is huge but came with loads of hard work.
If I knew it would stay feeling like it does at the moment I'd stop. I want to push through this to come out 'over there', a climber, a real one, not an awesome one, not a legend, maybe even just a good fun second - don't care, just not where I am now.
I hear you. There's just one small problem, I was scared of moves at the top of the bouldering wall (still am sometimes but more rationally), in fact when I started I wouldn't make a dodgy move indoors on a top rope! And from where I was at to where I'm now indoor leading is huge but came with loads of hard work.
If I knew it would stay feeling like it does at the moment I'd stop. I want to push through this to come out 'over there', a climber, a real one, not an awesome one, not a legend, maybe even just a good fun second - don't care, just not where I am now.
In reply to SenzuBean:
It would help if it wasn't in a different stratosphere to where I'm at. If I led a brisk outdoor walk I'd be bloody chuffed!
It would help if it wasn't in a different stratosphere to where I'm at. If I led a brisk outdoor walk I'd be bloody chuffed!
In reply to flopsicle:
Sometimes, you have to take one step back in order to take two steps forward. This is one of those times.
And rest is an important part of exercise; in climbing it's important not just for the body, but for the head too. Take a break; you'll be ripping up trees when you get back.
T.
Sometimes, you have to take one step back in order to take two steps forward. This is one of those times.
And rest is an important part of exercise; in climbing it's important not just for the body, but for the head too. Take a break; you'll be ripping up trees when you get back.
T.
1
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
I need some of this. When I started climbing I swore I wasn't going to get hooked - I have previous form in terms of sporting obsession.
I have kept some balance. When climbing outside would have meant not seeing my brother, I picked my brother. I always pick my daughter first which, because she's climbing mad, has meant I've never 'farmed her out' to climb. I work hard at my job etc. House is a bloody mess though!
The coping with failure bit is a mare. There's who I want to be, this chilled, happy go lucky, dust off and have a giggle paradigm. Then there's what I actually achieve, just a random tenacity mixed with bitter disappointment that I was scared again, that I didn't hide it, but most of all that I'm not a chilled, happy go lucky....
The comp thing is just plain bonkers - I feel like a sulky brat taking their bat home if I just give up because my scores suck, see above for fading hopes of happy go lucky, failing in a style I could be proud of!
Outside of my daughter climbing is (despite all the above) the best thing inn my life, hands down and it's done me lots of good. But it was easier with my mojo!
I need some of this. When I started climbing I swore I wasn't going to get hooked - I have previous form in terms of sporting obsession.
I have kept some balance. When climbing outside would have meant not seeing my brother, I picked my brother. I always pick my daughter first which, because she's climbing mad, has meant I've never 'farmed her out' to climb. I work hard at my job etc. House is a bloody mess though!
The coping with failure bit is a mare. There's who I want to be, this chilled, happy go lucky, dust off and have a giggle paradigm. Then there's what I actually achieve, just a random tenacity mixed with bitter disappointment that I was scared again, that I didn't hide it, but most of all that I'm not a chilled, happy go lucky....
The comp thing is just plain bonkers - I feel like a sulky brat taking their bat home if I just give up because my scores suck, see above for fading hopes of happy go lucky, failing in a style I could be proud of!
Outside of my daughter climbing is (despite all the above) the best thing inn my life, hands down and it's done me lots of good. But it was easier with my mojo!
In reply to flopsicle:
I don't think that's true (that goals aren't applicable at lower grades), for example take some routes such as:
Symphony Crack (VD)
Amphitheatre Buttress (VD)
Hope (VD)
or even this ticklist: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=182
Those routes are all achievable in terms of physical effort. That leaves the other variables being exposure, and trusting trad gear. In my experience there does seem to be a barrier at about Diff/VDiff where climbers who are reluctant to trust their gear can become stopped. I don't know if that's what applies to you? (it sounds like it, I'm way too crap and nervous to try indoor comps, but am happy trusting my placements - which imples you can climb well, but are not trusting the gear).
I'd suggest if that is your fear, just confronting it in a step by step manner as a long term goal. Making a concerted effort to do falling practice at the wall, go to single-pitch crags and fall off on top-rope, put in placements at the bottom and progressively weight them until you're comfortable standing on them. Get a good friend to rate your placements out of 5.
No idea if any of that is useful, but if you want to succeed you have to believe in yourself (which is usually a type of white lying!).
> It would help if it wasn't in a different stratosphere to where I'm at. If I led a brisk outdoor walk I'd be bloody chuffed!
I don't think that's true (that goals aren't applicable at lower grades), for example take some routes such as:
Symphony Crack (VD)
Amphitheatre Buttress (VD)
Hope (VD)
or even this ticklist: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=182
Those routes are all achievable in terms of physical effort. That leaves the other variables being exposure, and trusting trad gear. In my experience there does seem to be a barrier at about Diff/VDiff where climbers who are reluctant to trust their gear can become stopped. I don't know if that's what applies to you? (it sounds like it, I'm way too crap and nervous to try indoor comps, but am happy trusting my placements - which imples you can climb well, but are not trusting the gear).
I'd suggest if that is your fear, just confronting it in a step by step manner as a long term goal. Making a concerted effort to do falling practice at the wall, go to single-pitch crags and fall off on top-rope, put in placements at the bottom and progressively weight them until you're comfortable standing on them. Get a good friend to rate your placements out of 5.
No idea if any of that is useful, but if you want to succeed you have to believe in yourself (which is usually a type of white lying!).
In reply to flopsicle:
It sounds like you need to remember why you climb - you do it for kicks. You don't do it to get fit, you don't do it to be better than anyone, you don't do it to get the "ticks", you do it because you enjoy it.
I have had similar issues in the past. First I loved climbing - I didn't do anything else for 3-4 years. I started getting good(ish) indoors and out, my climbing partner and I would push and encourage each other to new achievements, we entered a few indoor bouldering comps for a laugh and did middling to ok to start with, and then crept up the ranks a bit. Then I hit a plateau, picked up injuries, tried to strap up fingers and carry on etc. a strange niggle started when on lead, especially on limestone, then it spread to grit and somewhere along the lines my partner and I had a massive row in font (she missed a hold on marie rose that I had just cleaned - fell, and although spotted chipped a tooth) the following day we both kind of realised we'd taken the fun out of climbing by making it all about getting ticks, the next grade, a bit of a competition.
After a while we learned to just enjoy climbing again and back walked in my mojo. However I did too much damage to my hands pushing myself when injured so now I just go and enjoy doing a few severes on a sunny (or at least dry)day in the peak or snowdonia every few months
It sounds like you need to remember why you climb - you do it for kicks. You don't do it to get fit, you don't do it to be better than anyone, you don't do it to get the "ticks", you do it because you enjoy it.
I have had similar issues in the past. First I loved climbing - I didn't do anything else for 3-4 years. I started getting good(ish) indoors and out, my climbing partner and I would push and encourage each other to new achievements, we entered a few indoor bouldering comps for a laugh and did middling to ok to start with, and then crept up the ranks a bit. Then I hit a plateau, picked up injuries, tried to strap up fingers and carry on etc. a strange niggle started when on lead, especially on limestone, then it spread to grit and somewhere along the lines my partner and I had a massive row in font (she missed a hold on marie rose that I had just cleaned - fell, and although spotted chipped a tooth) the following day we both kind of realised we'd taken the fun out of climbing by making it all about getting ticks, the next grade, a bit of a competition.
After a while we learned to just enjoy climbing again and back walked in my mojo. However I did too much damage to my hands pushing myself when injured so now I just go and enjoy doing a few severes on a sunny (or at least dry)day in the peak or snowdonia every few months
Post edited at 21:27
In reply to flopsicle:
I would agree with others that if you're not motivated a break - or a change of type of climbing - can help. But you're motivated but having head issues - quite normal, climbing is a physical and mental thing. I learned to climb on gritstone and it became ingrained that falling off was not a good idea, and it still scares me and stops me getting to the top of boulder problems or to scary clips on sport routes. Can't tell you the solution yet but have just bought a promising looking book after hearing the authors on a podcast. It's called Vertical Mind - psychological approaches for optimal rock climbing by McGrath and Elison. There are other books on the subject too - and podcasts including on Trainingbeta.com and Brave Monkey Speaks.
Hope some of this may help, don't give up on climbing, its hard to replace (I've tried) so better - as you already know - to find that mojo!
I would agree with others that if you're not motivated a break - or a change of type of climbing - can help. But you're motivated but having head issues - quite normal, climbing is a physical and mental thing. I learned to climb on gritstone and it became ingrained that falling off was not a good idea, and it still scares me and stops me getting to the top of boulder problems or to scary clips on sport routes. Can't tell you the solution yet but have just bought a promising looking book after hearing the authors on a podcast. It's called Vertical Mind - psychological approaches for optimal rock climbing by McGrath and Elison. There are other books on the subject too - and podcasts including on Trainingbeta.com and Brave Monkey Speaks.
Hope some of this may help, don't give up on climbing, its hard to replace (I've tried) so better - as you already know - to find that mojo!
In reply to flopsicle:
Hello Flopsicle.Firstly...climbing did not stop you smoking.You stopped you smoking.You should be thankful you had the resolve to kick what is a highly addictive and a fairly disgusting habit.Lots of people can't or will not.Also a ridiculous example to your daughter when you did smoke.Secondly forget competitons.If you are in a difficult or unhappy place with your climbing competiions will only make things worse.Competiions work for your climbing when you care an incredible amount or don't really care in the right way.
Your climbing...I am no expert but in my anything but humble opinion the basis for climbing is technique and strength.Technique comes with experience,time and learning from others.Strength comes from you.A stronger fitter body will make you more confident and stronger muscles will give you support to train harder and perfect technique.Firstly get a strong core and go from there with the rest.
The problem however is not your body but your mind.Also at this moment in your climbing career you have a choice which is either to carry on in the doldrums or wake up and smell the coffee.The good thing is that the doldrums are depressing but the coffee smells good.You need to reset yourself.You need to feel like tomorrow somenbody is going to take climbing away from you for good and there is nothing you can do about it.You need to feel like a small child who is going to have their favourite toy taken away from them and then you have to imagine that child holding onto that toy fighting to keep hold of it with every single ounce of energy he/she has not to let that toy be taken from them.
Climbing is amazing and full of surprises but you have to apply yourself.
Buy or at least read The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ligner.Probably the most important piece of training litreture available.
Hang on in there.Climbing is not scary.Not being able to climb might be scary.Not applying your ability is probably scarier.Best of luck.
Hello Flopsicle.Firstly...climbing did not stop you smoking.You stopped you smoking.You should be thankful you had the resolve to kick what is a highly addictive and a fairly disgusting habit.Lots of people can't or will not.Also a ridiculous example to your daughter when you did smoke.Secondly forget competitons.If you are in a difficult or unhappy place with your climbing competiions will only make things worse.Competiions work for your climbing when you care an incredible amount or don't really care in the right way.
Your climbing...I am no expert but in my anything but humble opinion the basis for climbing is technique and strength.Technique comes with experience,time and learning from others.Strength comes from you.A stronger fitter body will make you more confident and stronger muscles will give you support to train harder and perfect technique.Firstly get a strong core and go from there with the rest.
The problem however is not your body but your mind.Also at this moment in your climbing career you have a choice which is either to carry on in the doldrums or wake up and smell the coffee.The good thing is that the doldrums are depressing but the coffee smells good.You need to reset yourself.You need to feel like tomorrow somenbody is going to take climbing away from you for good and there is nothing you can do about it.You need to feel like a small child who is going to have their favourite toy taken away from them and then you have to imagine that child holding onto that toy fighting to keep hold of it with every single ounce of energy he/she has not to let that toy be taken from them.
Climbing is amazing and full of surprises but you have to apply yourself.
Buy or at least read The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ligner.Probably the most important piece of training litreture available.
Hang on in there.Climbing is not scary.Not being able to climb might be scary.Not applying your ability is probably scarier.Best of luck.
In reply to flopsicle:
cliche but go buy 9 out of 10 climbers. It touches directly and indirectly on alot of the issues you mention and I think could be helpful (as well as with the rest of your climbing).
You do realise it is okay to feel down about something (especially climbing) ? Even for that length of time. Plenty of people on here have had breaks of varying lengths and come back recharged, refreshed (and more importantly, healed their injuries, or gotten the motivation to heal them).
Good luck friend
cliche but go buy 9 out of 10 climbers. It touches directly and indirectly on alot of the issues you mention and I think could be helpful (as well as with the rest of your climbing).
You do realise it is okay to feel down about something (especially climbing) ? Even for that length of time. Plenty of people on here have had breaks of varying lengths and come back recharged, refreshed (and more importantly, healed their injuries, or gotten the motivation to heal them).
Good luck friend
3
In reply to Speed Reed:
"Firstly...climbing did not stop you smoking.You stopped you smoking.You should be thankful you had the resolve to kick what is a highly addictive and a fairly disgusting habit.Lots of people can't or will not.Also a ridiculous example to your daughter when you did smoke."
Actually, it's easier to replace a habit or addiction than just remove it. Smoking and climbing were not compatible for me as I realised early on being fitter was going to be the most reliable of quick gains. As for example to my kid, yeah, that was a huge element, but essentially to be the good example I wanted to be took a little substitution.
I may well stop the comps - just not really sure it isn't more of an effect than cause (enjoying them less). They've done my climbing lots of good till now, added incentive to push and gained me a lovely Rab jacket and a year of free climbing! That I'm out the prizes now isn't a big issue as I got hooked on the boulder comps before I even entered where they had prizes. I had a good bite of the cherry, better than my climbing really warranted TBH. Not feeling like I'm doing well against what I was doing is what hurts and that does hurt.
I'm having considerable issues strength training, I don't like it but more importantly it seems to aggravate niggles and set me back more than bring me on. Fitness I work hard at and have been ok with keeping up well over the last 3 years.
"Firstly...climbing did not stop you smoking.You stopped you smoking.You should be thankful you had the resolve to kick what is a highly addictive and a fairly disgusting habit.Lots of people can't or will not.Also a ridiculous example to your daughter when you did smoke."
Actually, it's easier to replace a habit or addiction than just remove it. Smoking and climbing were not compatible for me as I realised early on being fitter was going to be the most reliable of quick gains. As for example to my kid, yeah, that was a huge element, but essentially to be the good example I wanted to be took a little substitution.
I may well stop the comps - just not really sure it isn't more of an effect than cause (enjoying them less). They've done my climbing lots of good till now, added incentive to push and gained me a lovely Rab jacket and a year of free climbing! That I'm out the prizes now isn't a big issue as I got hooked on the boulder comps before I even entered where they had prizes. I had a good bite of the cherry, better than my climbing really warranted TBH. Not feeling like I'm doing well against what I was doing is what hurts and that does hurt.
I'm having considerable issues strength training, I don't like it but more importantly it seems to aggravate niggles and set me back more than bring me on. Fitness I work hard at and have been ok with keeping up well over the last 3 years.
In reply to jsmcfarland:
Hehehe... I stopped reading 9 out of 10 when it got to the bit about falls practice. I don't even like being around when someone else is practising falls! I know eventually it will be the only thing left in order to get better, but whilst footwork could improve, route reading needs experience and actually learn how to think in a less self abusive manner, is still on the to do list, I'm not bloody letting go! *I fully realise I'm wrong about this BTW*.
Cheers for the good luck. Maybe I'll make peace with my miserable soditis.
Hehehe... I stopped reading 9 out of 10 when it got to the bit about falls practice. I don't even like being around when someone else is practising falls! I know eventually it will be the only thing left in order to get better, but whilst footwork could improve, route reading needs experience and actually learn how to think in a less self abusive manner, is still on the to do list, I'm not bloody letting go! *I fully realise I'm wrong about this BTW*.
Cheers for the good luck. Maybe I'll make peace with my miserable soditis.
In reply to flopsicle:
It sounds to me like you perhaps need to visit a climbing physio to get to the root of your niggles, and to give you the feeling that you've a solid/safe base to build on physically, so you're not mentally thinking about whether you should go for a certain move, or if you need to approach something in a different way, and so you won't keep feeling held back them when you're training too. Perhaps it's possible a lack of 'faith in your physicality' is hampering your 'trad head'?
My climbing has never been quite the same since chronic elbow injuries, in stopping it from being the ever expanding journey of exploration it once was, in terms of trying harder things, and climbing new things outdoors, which is what used to be my motivator, so it's with that in mind that I'm thinking addressing your niggles wouldn't be a bad idea. Good luck.
It sounds to me like you perhaps need to visit a climbing physio to get to the root of your niggles, and to give you the feeling that you've a solid/safe base to build on physically, so you're not mentally thinking about whether you should go for a certain move, or if you need to approach something in a different way, and so you won't keep feeling held back them when you're training too. Perhaps it's possible a lack of 'faith in your physicality' is hampering your 'trad head'?
My climbing has never been quite the same since chronic elbow injuries, in stopping it from being the ever expanding journey of exploration it once was, in terms of trying harder things, and climbing new things outdoors, which is what used to be my motivator, so it's with that in mind that I'm thinking addressing your niggles wouldn't be a bad idea. Good luck.
Post edited at 14:00
2
In reply to flopsicle:
Hi flopsicle,
I think you are describing an issue we all feel from time to time.
I think one of the things is that improvement in climbing is not easy at all and it takes careful look at many components to make it work.
Well done for working on those. I think the idea of working at your weaknesses can prove a huge amount of satisfaction. For instance trying something a little bit beyond your level now can be both liberating as you have no expectations to succeed but in the meantime your comfort zone gets expanded.
For instance a 6b climber playing on a 7a can be of huge benefit if done once a week and going for mileage for the rest of the time. No expectations, just fun working out the moves on something hard.
I'd also have an antagonistoc routine for your shoulders and grab a copy of Make or Break.
In the end, we all climb because we love climbing and occassionally we suck at it, but as long as we have enjoyable session inside or out that's ok. ☺
Just enjoy your journey through climbing and don't let your self worth depend on perceived number expectations.
Hi flopsicle,
I think you are describing an issue we all feel from time to time.
I think one of the things is that improvement in climbing is not easy at all and it takes careful look at many components to make it work.
Well done for working on those. I think the idea of working at your weaknesses can prove a huge amount of satisfaction. For instance trying something a little bit beyond your level now can be both liberating as you have no expectations to succeed but in the meantime your comfort zone gets expanded.
For instance a 6b climber playing on a 7a can be of huge benefit if done once a week and going for mileage for the rest of the time. No expectations, just fun working out the moves on something hard.
I'd also have an antagonistoc routine for your shoulders and grab a copy of Make or Break.
In the end, we all climb because we love climbing and occassionally we suck at it, but as long as we have enjoyable session inside or out that's ok. ☺
Just enjoy your journey through climbing and don't let your self worth depend on perceived number expectations.
1
Honest post that I think many on here empathise with - I certainly do - and has also garnered a lot of great replies. I've been roughly where you are a fair bit, I think, and have regularly taken substantial breaks from climbing as a result.
For me the solution to where you are has been taking time off, genuinely forgetting about climbing goals, then starting climbing again after 1-6 months with no expectations and just happy to meet up with friends and do the easiest routes on the wall (indoors or out). There's definitely a yoga connection here for me ... when coming back to it I just enjoy the feeling of movement, the body positions, etc, no grade worries or objectives ... mindfulness in other words. At the moment I'm 4 months into such a layoff
This initial toe-dipping usually leads to me wanting to get back into climbing shape, and gets me thinking about past climbing issues from a distance. At this point I often think about goal setting, mostly specific routes. I choose a few novel things below my old bests that I'd like to get done (enjoying the journey so to speak); a few equal to old bests that will make me feel I'm back where I was, and a few "new highs" that are one notch above. I also put in a few dream things that are usually only likely way in the future (shoot for the stars ...).
With 20:20 hindsight and less emotional investment I can usually see (or think I can) what I can do differently this time to get better results. And more importantly I have the mental/emotional energy to commit to a positive course of action. Examples of things I've girded my mental loins for at these points include: 4 months of shoulder physio to overcome stability issues; clip drop fall practise; training twice a week 6am-8am before work; finger boarding twice a week at home. I honestly don't think I'd have had the oomph to get each of these done without a decent break beforehand. Together those things I mention have probably added a large proportion of the gains in climbing level I've achieved over the last 6 or 7 years.
I do often wish I could maintain a semblance of casual climbing in the interim periods. But I accept that I'm an off or on kind of person. Either way, I think an "off season" is invaluable for the perspective and motivation it provides. You don't have to just eat cake and watch TV ... It's a good chance to do a different sport (currently a half marathon in my case); or pursue other interests/friends/vacations (or failing that even spruce your house and admin!).
Oh, one last thing about being scared ... For many years my pre-climb thoughts used to be about trying not to be scared. Nowadays I look up and think about where I'll be scared, and set off expecting to be so - works a lot better! I'm definitely a +1 for rock warriors way on this subject, made a big difference to me (after many years of choosing the blunt end whenever the grades went up).
Good luck, and whatever you do, remember it's only a rock!
Post edited at 12:39
In reply to flopsicle:
I had the same about 3 years after starting climbing. I was in my mid 30’s and knew I was no sports hero but wanted to do my best.
Then I blew my elbow out. Up to that point I had had the perfect cocktail of getting nowhere with this sport. I’d been believing all the nonsense on ukc news about E8’s, reading rock warriors way and visualising success and countless other bollocks. In short I’d been pressuring myself to succeed. And frankly this was mainly centered round pulling like f*ck all the time, and if I was just a bit stronger I could pull like f*ck even more!
Then with a blown out elbow i went on a long well planned rehab through a good sports physio and ………. Decided to learn how to climb instead!
A systemic shift!
It started with me going to the crags and just playing. See how my feet felt. What did it feel like to move. Guide books lived at home. I was not there to do any “problems” Just me and bouldering mat playing about. Couldn’t really use my arm much either so I’d instead learnt how not to.
If I met anyone out I told them I was “nah I’m just pissing around. Having a play”. Amazing how many of the really hardcore climbers understood this and started pointing out the fun ones to try. Anyway confidence and fun on the rock slowly started to come. Even if I was never more than a foot off the floor
Bouldering wall was just using all the colours. Again no problems. Just playing about. Tying to traverse at the top. Getting used to height whilst i got my arm better. Lots of movement.
I started to take a lot more enjoyment out of it. No pressure.
A major observation for me was the difference in how different climbers talked about climbing.
The shirts off brigade at climbing walls used words like “pysch” and “visualisations” and only talking numbers and letters of climbing grades. I was never going to be as good as them so that was pointless. It was very competitive alpha dog situation.
On the other hand, all the terrifying looking old trad climbers wondering around Yorkshire permanently talked about how scared they’d been on a climb, regardless of the grade. Polishing V diff chimneys, thrutchy VS jamming cracks, naughty E3’s, pokey for E4. They all seemed to be battles. That’s because they all are! For all of us. All the time. So it didn’t matter if I was scared. They had been when they’d done that one too. Pretending you weren’t going to have a fight up there was folly. So don’t worry about it and embrace it.
I started playing, took the pressure off and slowly improved. It was fun.
Anyway, stick at it and i hope you enjoy it.
I had the same about 3 years after starting climbing. I was in my mid 30’s and knew I was no sports hero but wanted to do my best.
Then I blew my elbow out. Up to that point I had had the perfect cocktail of getting nowhere with this sport. I’d been believing all the nonsense on ukc news about E8’s, reading rock warriors way and visualising success and countless other bollocks. In short I’d been pressuring myself to succeed. And frankly this was mainly centered round pulling like f*ck all the time, and if I was just a bit stronger I could pull like f*ck even more!
Then with a blown out elbow i went on a long well planned rehab through a good sports physio and ………. Decided to learn how to climb instead!
A systemic shift!
It started with me going to the crags and just playing. See how my feet felt. What did it feel like to move. Guide books lived at home. I was not there to do any “problems” Just me and bouldering mat playing about. Couldn’t really use my arm much either so I’d instead learnt how not to.
If I met anyone out I told them I was “nah I’m just pissing around. Having a play”. Amazing how many of the really hardcore climbers understood this and started pointing out the fun ones to try. Anyway confidence and fun on the rock slowly started to come. Even if I was never more than a foot off the floor
Bouldering wall was just using all the colours. Again no problems. Just playing about. Tying to traverse at the top. Getting used to height whilst i got my arm better. Lots of movement.
I started to take a lot more enjoyment out of it. No pressure.
A major observation for me was the difference in how different climbers talked about climbing.
The shirts off brigade at climbing walls used words like “pysch” and “visualisations” and only talking numbers and letters of climbing grades. I was never going to be as good as them so that was pointless. It was very competitive alpha dog situation.
On the other hand, all the terrifying looking old trad climbers wondering around Yorkshire permanently talked about how scared they’d been on a climb, regardless of the grade. Polishing V diff chimneys, thrutchy VS jamming cracks, naughty E3’s, pokey for E4. They all seemed to be battles. That’s because they all are! For all of us. All the time. So it didn’t matter if I was scared. They had been when they’d done that one too. Pretending you weren’t going to have a fight up there was folly. So don’t worry about it and embrace it.
I started playing, took the pressure off and slowly improved. It was fun.
Anyway, stick at it and i hope you enjoy it.
6
In reply to flopsicle:
Your post struck a chord with me and I suspect periods of dissatisfaction/disillusionment are part of the process of learning to climb/the journey of climbing.
#1 Be careful with your shoulder. I think you can climb around injuries (if I didn't I wouldn't climb at all) but you have to adjust your expectations, decide to back off even stuff you find easy if it aggravates the injury, and most of all, see a physio and do the right exercises. If it doesn't improve, see a different physio and do different exercises. Repeat until you start to notice improvements. When your shoulder feels OK again, keep doing the exercises but make them harder.
#2 Be patient. This is the biggest lesson climbing has taught me. I have had the experience of fastish early progression in climbing but everyone reaches a point where it is not as easy to keep progressing any more. I went quickly to about F6b+, had a little period of consolidation, then went quickly again to 7a. This is a sort of base level for me from which I make occasional sallies into higher grades and sometimes depressing retrenchments. I think everyone reaches a level like this after a number of years climbing (for some it's VS, other talented people shoot right up into the F8s and beyond). You can only climb so much in any timetable, you have to choose at different periods in your life how important a priority climbing is vs other things. If climbing really is your priority at any time you will fit your life around it - if it's not it has to fit around life. Your performance will usually reflect your prioritisation.
My view is that it's best to keep your hand in, even if you can only climb once a week, take the improvement pressure off yourself (this is difficult if you're a competitive person), and remember what it is you enjoy about climbing. Focus on that. It's great to work your weaknesses, but it's also OK just to focus on stuff you like doing or find easy and do that. When you have more time in the future, you can pick up the training, work your weaknesses, focus on improvement for a while. I also think having breaks from different types of climbing works well - at some times focus on bouldering, sometimes doing routes, sometimes training for climbing or just generally getting fit.
#3 Mileage outside. Agree 100% with what people have said above about this helping with being scared. In my experience it has to be regular and at the same venues for it to be effective at those venues - i.e. I can do a lot of sport climbing on limestone and still freak out on grit, and vice versa. Or be fine climbing 25m sport routes at my local crags and get scared climbing 40m sport routes on holiday. Best way of dealing with this for me is to do easy routes with no pressure. For sport climbing, I find it also works to try routes right at my top redpoint grade with no pressure. Just focusing on climbing the moves, having to take falls, getting used to the rock and the position I'm in.
Hope some of this helps, climbing is a funny old game and sometimes seems very hard work!
Your post struck a chord with me and I suspect periods of dissatisfaction/disillusionment are part of the process of learning to climb/the journey of climbing.
#1 Be careful with your shoulder. I think you can climb around injuries (if I didn't I wouldn't climb at all) but you have to adjust your expectations, decide to back off even stuff you find easy if it aggravates the injury, and most of all, see a physio and do the right exercises. If it doesn't improve, see a different physio and do different exercises. Repeat until you start to notice improvements. When your shoulder feels OK again, keep doing the exercises but make them harder.
#2 Be patient. This is the biggest lesson climbing has taught me. I have had the experience of fastish early progression in climbing but everyone reaches a point where it is not as easy to keep progressing any more. I went quickly to about F6b+, had a little period of consolidation, then went quickly again to 7a. This is a sort of base level for me from which I make occasional sallies into higher grades and sometimes depressing retrenchments. I think everyone reaches a level like this after a number of years climbing (for some it's VS, other talented people shoot right up into the F8s and beyond). You can only climb so much in any timetable, you have to choose at different periods in your life how important a priority climbing is vs other things. If climbing really is your priority at any time you will fit your life around it - if it's not it has to fit around life. Your performance will usually reflect your prioritisation.
My view is that it's best to keep your hand in, even if you can only climb once a week, take the improvement pressure off yourself (this is difficult if you're a competitive person), and remember what it is you enjoy about climbing. Focus on that. It's great to work your weaknesses, but it's also OK just to focus on stuff you like doing or find easy and do that. When you have more time in the future, you can pick up the training, work your weaknesses, focus on improvement for a while. I also think having breaks from different types of climbing works well - at some times focus on bouldering, sometimes doing routes, sometimes training for climbing or just generally getting fit.
#3 Mileage outside. Agree 100% with what people have said above about this helping with being scared. In my experience it has to be regular and at the same venues for it to be effective at those venues - i.e. I can do a lot of sport climbing on limestone and still freak out on grit, and vice versa. Or be fine climbing 25m sport routes at my local crags and get scared climbing 40m sport routes on holiday. Best way of dealing with this for me is to do easy routes with no pressure. For sport climbing, I find it also works to try routes right at my top redpoint grade with no pressure. Just focusing on climbing the moves, having to take falls, getting used to the rock and the position I'm in.
Hope some of this helps, climbing is a funny old game and sometimes seems very hard work!
1
In reply to RockSteady: Thanks, and thanks to zmv and Timmd.
I think I need to be allowed to learn slower than seems expected, that's how I improved indoors, I threw hours of time at it. I think I actually want to be a 'Steady Eddy' in the end, someone regarded as an excellent belayer, safe knotwork and anchors, supportive and if I'm lucky - decently competent climbing and I think that stuff matters more to me than if I end up leading. There just seems to be lots more pressure to be brave than any of that!
I think I need to be allowed to learn slower than seems expected, that's how I improved indoors, I threw hours of time at it. I think I actually want to be a 'Steady Eddy' in the end, someone regarded as an excellent belayer, safe knotwork and anchors, supportive and if I'm lucky - decently competent climbing and I think that stuff matters more to me than if I end up leading. There just seems to be lots more pressure to be brave than any of that!
In reply to flopsicle:
Hi. My other half suffers from the same lack of confidence as you and there a couple of things we do -
1. Realise that the only person who has expectations around climbing ability, fearlessness, etc is you. Realise where you are with your climbing (physically and mentally) and work from that point. Be honest about it and you'll find a lot of the pressure will evaporate because you're the one applying it in the first place!
2. Don't be tempted to climb "easy" stuff - whatever you consider easy. If it's too straight forward then your brain isn't fully engaged with the climbing, and has time to come up with falling off scenarios. You need to be challanged by the climbing - that's where the fun is anyway! It doesn't have to be techincally hard to the point where you will fall, but enough that you have to work out moves and sequences rather than climb a ladder.
3. There's no shame in down climbing a route if it gets a bit much. We all do it and as long as you learn from it then it's all training After all, you did get on it in the first place.
Finally, realise that all those climbers you look at and think "wow, they are fearless" aren't! Every climber has the fear, it's just at different points for each of us. The more you face it, the further it will receed. Which is easy to say but go back to point 1 and work from there.
Keep climbing and I hope you find your mojo!
Hi. My other half suffers from the same lack of confidence as you and there a couple of things we do -
1. Realise that the only person who has expectations around climbing ability, fearlessness, etc is you. Realise where you are with your climbing (physically and mentally) and work from that point. Be honest about it and you'll find a lot of the pressure will evaporate because you're the one applying it in the first place!
2. Don't be tempted to climb "easy" stuff - whatever you consider easy. If it's too straight forward then your brain isn't fully engaged with the climbing, and has time to come up with falling off scenarios. You need to be challanged by the climbing - that's where the fun is anyway! It doesn't have to be techincally hard to the point where you will fall, but enough that you have to work out moves and sequences rather than climb a ladder.
3. There's no shame in down climbing a route if it gets a bit much. We all do it and as long as you learn from it then it's all training After all, you did get on it in the first place.
Finally, realise that all those climbers you look at and think "wow, they are fearless" aren't! Every climber has the fear, it's just at different points for each of us. The more you face it, the further it will receed. Which is easy to say but go back to point 1 and work from there.
Keep climbing and I hope you find your mojo!
4
In reply to flopsicle:
I started a thread with similar title to this one about a year ago.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=624936
Maybe you get some useful ideas from peoples responses on that thread. It helped me personally when I was feeling low.
I started a thread with similar title to this one about a year ago.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=624936
Maybe you get some useful ideas from peoples responses on that thread. It helped me personally when I was feeling low.
In reply to flopsicle
Interesting thread with a lot of considered replies. I just wanted to throw a thought out there that might make you feel better. About ten years ago I was lucky enough to watch a second ascent of an E7 route in Pembroke. Pretty ground breaking stuff at the time. But the relevant bit was speaking to the climber afterwards.
He was really humble about it and made the point that anyone pushing their boundaries was going through the same mental process as him on that route. There was no greater victory for him or me leading my first vs, for example, we still had to control the same fear. Which makes all climbing achievements equal if you think of them in those terms. Any progress no matter where you start is good progress and has value.
Interesting thread with a lot of considered replies. I just wanted to throw a thought out there that might make you feel better. About ten years ago I was lucky enough to watch a second ascent of an E7 route in Pembroke. Pretty ground breaking stuff at the time. But the relevant bit was speaking to the climber afterwards.
He was really humble about it and made the point that anyone pushing their boundaries was going through the same mental process as him on that route. There was no greater victory for him or me leading my first vs, for example, we still had to control the same fear. Which makes all climbing achievements equal if you think of them in those terms. Any progress no matter where you start is good progress and has value.
1
In reply to flopsicle:
1. Sort your shoulder out
This will allow you to
2. strength train effectively
3. Progression will get you psyched.
Headwise just keep pushing but in small ways YOU feel comfortable with. Over time you improve a bit. But climbing is scary, even top climbers like Sharma admit being scared. Falling from the top of the bouldering wall is definitely different from falling off the bottom. Always will be though it's possible to get more comfortable with it with intentional practice.
1. Sort your shoulder out
This will allow you to
2. strength train effectively
3. Progression will get you psyched.
Headwise just keep pushing but in small ways YOU feel comfortable with. Over time you improve a bit. But climbing is scary, even top climbers like Sharma admit being scared. Falling from the top of the bouldering wall is definitely different from falling off the bottom. Always will be though it's possible to get more comfortable with it with intentional practice.
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