UKC

Pulley or a krab, ascending with grigri

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 zimpara 31 Jul 2016
If you are on an ab line on a grigri, with a ropeman/handed ascender higher up, and the brake strand running from the grigri, through the krab of the ascender back down to you, how much difference is pulley VS no pulley going to make?
Cheers
1
 wbo 31 Jul 2016
In reply to zimpara: I'm going to need a picture for this . How can this be so complex? Last time I climbed a slab with a grigri I huffed and puffed and pretty simply just pulled up the rope.

 jezb1 31 Jul 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Quite a bit, saves my elbows when I'm doing lots of it for work.

It's all in the hips though..
 routrax 31 Jul 2016
In reply to zimpara:

There has to be some benefit, probably depends on how far you're ascending as to whether is worth it.

Possible job for a DMM revolver?
OP zimpara 31 Jul 2016
In reply to jezb1:

You aren't that tall tanned mother fo who jugs up tryfan bach all the time on learn to lead are you? No pulley I could see
1
 jezb1 31 Jul 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Tall, currently tanned and use Tryfan Bach a bit, but nearly always use a small pulley.
OP zimpara 31 Jul 2016
In reply to jezb1:

Nice one
1
 Mark Stevenson 01 Aug 2016
In reply to routrax:
> Possible job for a DMM revolver?

Yes. I always use a Revolver wiregate on my own ascender which reduces friction a bit but still allows you to quickly change the setup.
I'll be using the system later today, although this time it is work kit so it will just be using a krab.
Post edited at 09:19
 scott titt 01 Aug 2016
In reply to zimpara:
I always use a pulley, it is a lot easier.
 petegunn 01 Aug 2016
In reply to zimpara:

I use a foot loop in the ascender rather than a pulley, seems easy enough, though haven't tried the pulley method to compare it with.
 jimtitt 01 Aug 2016
In reply to zimpara:

10mm static rope through GriGri Mk 1 and ascender.
Force required to lift weight:-
12mm HMS karabiner +39%
Revolver +37%
CT RollnLock +15%
Petzl Oscillante Pulley +8%
OP zimpara 01 Aug 2016
In reply to jimtitt:

Perfect! Thank you
 Phil Anderson 01 Aug 2016
In reply to jimtitt:
Any thoughts on why the revolver performed so poorly? I'm assuming it's the sharp angle caused by the small roller but would be interested to hear your thoughts.

I was about to say that in its defense it's not really what it's for, but then I noticed that their website states "Innovative lightweight rescue hauling and rigging applications." I guess that'd be using it with the rope not going a full 180 degrees.
Post edited at 13:24
 jimtitt 01 Aug 2016
In reply to Phil Anderson:

That´ s the problem, the roller diameter is too small really for 180° applications. It´ s better than a 10mm karabiner though by about 12% and miles better than some of the real thin karabiners which go down to near enough 8mm.
The other problem is under high load thicker ropes tend to ride up onto the spine and rub, there´ s some photos of a worn one on one of the US websites somewhere which was used for top-roping. For reducing drag on wandering lines with only rope weight it´ s fine but for hauling not a replacement for a larger diameter pulley.
For jumaring the ease of putting the rope in and out is great but I use a conventional pulley instead, I´ ve usually plenty of time and not enough strength!
 humptydumpty 02 Aug 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Turns out this is actually really useful - thanks zimpara.
OP zimpara 02 Aug 2016
In reply to humptydumpty:
It's even better if you put a prussik and a foot loop on the rope exiting the pulley.

I tried a 6:1 version today, from another forum post about prussiking up a rope with a partner clipped to you. , but it was VERY slow! And wants atleast two ropemen, and three pulleys.
Post edited at 22:56

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