UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 490

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 Si dH 06 Aug 2016
Hi everyone!
I'm posting this a day early as I'm off out climbing all Sunday.

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=646788&v=1#x8358733

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

And we haven't had a psyche video of the week for a while...I decided it was only right to inflict some limestone on you. If you want to get strong, go bouldering...I came across this earlier in the week, it's got some good problems in it around the country in it (I can speak for the quality of the Blackwell Dale ones.)
vimeo.com/144595852

Last week’s posters:
Nick Russell: Good effort on Central Wall. Ramshaw will eat your skin at the best of times and now is a ridiculous time of year to go!
Hms - Nice one onsighting 7a+! No mean feat especially on a techie route in the UK.
Si dH - Boom boom, now I've got to keep it up.
Jas128 - are the psyche problems coming from failures on your route, or feeling tired? It's difficult to know for sure how to help but I'd recommend (a) taking a step back after a tough attempt and thinking about the medium term progress it's helping you to make, rather than the fact you are finding it hard (failure is usually good training!) (b) if it's always later in the session, make sure you are eating enough proper food while at the crag.
AJM - Peak Rock is great and I want to go to a chilli festival! 5/6 months to go, best get training.
Biscuit - Take it easy on the bicep. I always take lots of pasta with me on climbing days, my diet is much more carb heavy than in the week. I like pasta or rice as they are easy to eat just a bit at a time after each go on the route to stay fuelled.
Bobling - Good luck with your leg. Would definitely agree you need to decide what you want to focus on if you are so short of time. And be willing to grab a quick session whenever you can.
Ian Bell - Looks like you had a good weekend last week, ticking 7s both days. Any joy on the 7b?
Dandan82 - Crushing the greek supplies of syrupy dough balls and Mythos (that's all there is to do on Kalymnos, right?)
Emily - Sounds like a good day on the 6c despite not doing it. And don't be down about Ramshaw, you are adding 3 grades to everything by going in July. Plus it's hard. Hope the coaching was useful?
Hokkyokusei - Good consistency in doing something every day and seems to be helping your 5k fitness?
Ally Smith - how's the back / hip? Good weekend crushing down south?
SteveM - welcome! There's nothing to screw up, just do lots of climbing /training and post what you've managed each week Is the HVS goal a new level for you? Lots of trad mileage combined with the odd indoor boulder is probably not a bad way to get there so looks like a good first week.
Leeboy1985 - sometimes helping others learn can be really rewarding helpful long term - especially if they get keen and become a regular partner for you! Looks like some goals, I know Scavenger is a great route.
Just Tintin - well done on Sacre Coeur, what was the Dovedale E1? Any plans to try Jerry's again?
JayK - A typically understated 7C+ ascent, good effort!
Heelhookofglory - Climbing is better than running...but I would say that that
Jamming Dodger trying to help biscuit out - maybe you should take jammy dodgers instead of cakes.
I assume Tyler was resting the shoulder?

Happy climbing all!

Si
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si. Mountain biking not running

Rubbish week due to being ill again. I need to sort my diet out if I'm going to keep this training up.

Mon: 1hr easy on the MTB, spinning the race out of my legs.
Tue: 1hr MTB including 3 x 2 mins race pace.
Wed: Ill
Thu: Ill
Fri: Ill
Sat: Ill -- missed nationals but did go to Windgather and manage to lead one route in the evening.
Sun: Still laid up so I'll do a leg spinner on the bike and go watch the Elites race at Cannock.

STGs:
Climb or strength train 2/3x per week
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Lead at least 1x trad route before 18 August TICK!

MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series TICK!
Boulder V5/6
Get competent at skiing part 1: Levels 1-3 TICK!
Get competent at skiing part 2: Levels 4-6 at Chill Factore
 JayK 07 Aug 2016
In reply to heelhookofglory:
M- Flying visit to Dinbren on the drive home from Wales. Had a couple of burns at Extreme Ways but fell off at the end (again - I did this last time I was on it).
T-Rest
W-Rest
T-Portland. Finally managed to climb Hall of Mirrors (first tried it in 2011!) Stupidly I fell off after the crux on my second ever go all that time ago. Not this time though. Warmed up on the bottom and put the draws in. Went up and had a play on the crux on the second go. Fired it off 3rd go (first proper RP attempt of the day.) Who needs crisp conditions?
F-Wallsend. Buoyed by AJM's recent ascent of Saskwatch I went for a look (Tried it in 2013 but it was wet). Well it was absolutely soaked. So I moved over to have a look at Realm of Chaos instead which was also soaked... Pressed on and put the draws in, with the hope that when the sun came onto the wall it would dry it out. It did and wow - what a route. Probably the best route I've done in England. If anyone is down there looking for a 7b+ - this has everything.
S-6ish mile run. Probably a little quick for my current fitness and I'm trying to ease the knees in. Although I keep having small migraines/dizzy spells after my runs at the moment. Heat? Not eating enough? I used to get it a bit when I was a teenager but not had it for over 10 years. Weird. Any advice would be appreciated.
S-Rest (On a day as good as today? Yeah, well 6 weeks holiday makes you lazy and I'm going climbing tomorrow instead. )
Post edited at 12:21
OP Si dH 07 Aug 2016
In reply to Si dH:

2016 goals:

- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night

- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
- Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

- Arch Enemies (7c+ - done)
- 8a (Free Monster?)

M: Rest
T: Max hang session on fingerboard. Warm up then 4x 10 second one arm hangs with (-13.6kg) on either side (half crimp on 20mm edge). Then 4 x 10 second one arm hangs with (-6.8 kg) on either side (front 3 in good BM2000 pockets). Then 4 x 10 second hangs two-handed pinching my ceiling beams with +6.8kg. Finally a couple of 10 second hangs off the back 2 pockets (two arms) with bodyweight. Also did some core work (trying to progress towards a front level while warming up my fingers for the max hang session.)
W: Rest
T: As per Tuesday exactly.
F: Rest
S: Mostly a rest day but I had an hour free in the Roaches area early on so went to look at the moves on Tetris. Conditions were really poor (and it was really midgey). I didn't actually manage any of the harder moves that make it 7C but at least I know more accurately what it involves now.
S: Session on The Free Monster (8a). Had 3 goes up in total. By the end I had done all the moves and made all the clips although there's a lot of refinement left to do. It's pretty brutal on the shoulders and core as well as arms. I'm confident that I could link from the ground to just post crux at just over half height now (I didn't today, but it's not far off). The question is whether over a few sessions I could get it wired enough to carry on from there to the top. My mate needed to be home by 5 so I've also just done a short FoC session at home. Performance was terrible, I kept greasing off.

Injury catalogue: no significant change in left shoulder or right middle finger this week. Both gave me minor grumbles towards the end of the Free Monseter session but nothing major. Left index finger is gradually becoming more normal but still slightly swollen with no pain, weird. The ring finger tweak from last Sunday has proven to be a one-off as I thought.

Weight last Sunday night was 10st 12lb. (I was super light for doing Arch Enemies, but I think I've put a couple of lb back on this week -not been eating quite so well.)

Really like Free Monster, not sure it's really my ideal style but I'm definitely going to give it some time, partners permitting. If I manage to put some decent links together or refine the crux such that it feels much easier next session, then psyche will definitely be high. If anyone is up for coming to try it with me, please shout up.

Si
 biscuit 07 Aug 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si. Looks like you've been sucked in by monsters Just enjoy whatever it brings you.

Not a bad week: 1 session on the bulge and 2 training sessions.

Trying out new beta to miss out the knee bar and different sequence to get to the flake. Missing out knee bar feels ok. Getting out of knee bar was always a bit of an issue so this may be a goer. Now thinking left hand to vertical slot (makes getting to the big flatty easier for me) and going up to the intermediate after twin pockets to get to flake. Made it work well and it felt easy but couldn't get it to work again next go.

Spent a lot of time in the crux this time so no links made but tried the foot in pocket instead of way out left for the last big move and it worked well again.

Did a foc session but afterwards realised I'd used a slightly different protocol so comparisons were a bit useless. Good training though I guess.

Finally found a way to make an an cap session work and did 3 sets of 4 reps of a steep 10 move problem. Rest 2xclimb time.

Failed on last 2 reps. Probably due to cutting set rest down as kids wanted to go home.

Back on it tomorrow. I'm doing what I can and I feel it may not be enough but I'm enjoying myself on this prolonged siege so I don't mind. Never thought I would enjoy the same route over and over.

After getting some sugar in me last Monday I climbed better, but then felt really carby all week. Not weighed myself but I feel heavier. Need more discipline as I caved in quite often.
 Tyler 07 Aug 2016
In reply to Si dH:
> I assume Tyler was resting the shoulder?
I prefer rehabbing, it sounds much more professional!

Two weeks with little to report, I've been diligently doing my excercises and if anything things seem worse (I can constantly 'feel' my shoulder whereas originally I was barely aware of it apart form when climbing). Been to yoga and that doesn't seem to aggravate it. On the physio's advice I went to the wall after yoga on Thursday, big easy pulls really hurt so definitely no improvement. Went again today same result, did a couple of easy circuits and couldn't really pull. Discovered I could dead hang without too much discomfort so decided I may as well circuit the harder stuff as the easy stuff and had a couple of plays on the 7a+ circuit, didn't do it but shoulder feels no worse now. I'm bored of being injured now.

Last weekend did Kirkus's Route (VS 5a) it was brilliant, Ogwen was packed but we barely saw another person all day. The route itself is amazing, I had a friend 4 & 5 and so was comfortable but even with them the VS grade is a farce. Recommended.
Post edited at 23:25
 Cyan 08 Aug 2016
In reply to Si dH:

Slightly chaotic couple of weeks, posting now to make sure I do it!

Mon: Fingerboard, pullups.
Tues: Wall. Min on min off x10 at 7a. Pressups.
Wedns: Wall. Fun boulder, did some good problems. Rings x2, urgh.
Thurs: Wall. 6x Doubles on 7a.
Fri: Core.
Sat: Wallsend. Flashed Vin Chaud (7a) on a toprope. Felt really solid. Oops. Dogged up Halfway to Heaven (7b) then had a decent RP.
Sun: Cuttings. TR on Sign of the Vulcan. Two moves I can't do i.e. the crux. Core.
 Ian Bell 08 Aug 2016
In reply to Curious Yellow:

Hi all, looks like some solid efforts last week from everyone already

STG - keep ticking over the next few weeks while busy at work. Stay in shape till Kalymnos start of October.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 5x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b
BHAG = 8a by 40

Mon - 30 mins press ups & theraband

Tues - 90 min mix session with a bit of campus, a bit of bouldering and a few laps on the auto belay

Thurs - another quick session with some bouldering, a bit more campus and then 22 mins up and down solid on the autobelay

Sat - back at Llanymynech. Very hot but got back on Strawberry Tubin (7b) and sent it first go. The little beta tweak I found last time made a massive difference. First UK 7b and only my 2nd overall so very pleased, 6 tie ins in total. Then tried Jack the Smuggler (7a) next to it and got that 2nd go. Most successful day climbing ever grade wise celebrated with a very large sticky toffee pudding!

Sun - relaxed day at Trevor rocks. Did half a dozen routes all 6b or less and got a bit sunburnt.

Very successful week and happy to get Strawberry Tubin done, nice to see a benefit from the training. Pretty hectic at work at present so won't get much done in the week but might get out Sunday. 7b+ pyramid is starting to get there, will aim for some more 7a+ in the UK in Sep if I can and then hopefully finish it off in Kalymnos in October.
 Emily 08 Aug 2016
In reply to Si dH:
> Emily - Sounds like a good day on the 6c despite not doing it. And don't be down about Ramshaw, you are adding 3 grades to everything by going in July. Plus it's hard. Hope the coaching was useful?
Thanks Si. Yes, the coaching provided lots of food for thought. The input was a good mixture of stuff I kind of knew (or should have known) already, stuff that made excellent sense but I hadn't really thought of in that way before, and stuff that never would have occurred to me in a blue moon. No silver bullet for my scaredyness, obviously, but some positive steps to work on and just general encouragement that I think should really help. Really good value for money as well, I thought.

Mon Bouldering at TCA, went with a beginner so wasn't so much focused on my own stuff but did enough to wonder what was wrong with me on the greens last time: flashed a bunch of them no problem.
Tue Coaching at UCR. Got put on a 7b, haha. Absolutely knackered by the end and definitely learnt some useful stuff.
Wed Nothing.
Thu Climbing at Brean, tried Bikini Atoll (6c? 6b+?). Actually got surprisingly close to completing this in the evening's session, I think it might go next time at Brean? Took a proper, long fall off on my last go which is good.
Fri Nothing.
Sat Climbing at Pembroke, some nice routes. Mostly seconded but I did manage to lead half of an HS pitch quite confidently before getting lost and scared.
Sun Climbing at Pembroke, didn't fancy any leading but seconded a couple more excellent E1s. Apparently seconding E1 is a thing I can do somewhat competently these days.

Goals:

Short term (Aug)
  • work on fear
    • coaching input was useful and I didn't do too badly on the terrification front this week
  • work on Rustler (6c) some more
    • no Cheddar this week
  • finish Bikini Atoll

Medium term (Aug, Sep, Oct)
  • maintain weight in 56-58kg range
    • up again a bit at 59.6kg, need to get this under control
  • go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
    • did pretty well this week, enjoyed all three outdoor climbing days

Maybe someday
  • redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
  • redpoint another something beginning with 7 outdoors??
  • lead a VS???
 Nick Russell 08 Aug 2016
In reply to Si dH:
> Nick Russell: Good effort on Central Wall. Ramshaw will eat your skin at the best of times and now is a ridiculous time of year to go!

Yes, it is! But we were in the area Thanks for doing the stats this week. I felt like I took it a bit easy this week, compared to the previous two at least.

M - Rest
T - 10.5km run with 4x[1km hard/1km easy] intervals
W - Rained off at Avon. On the positive side, I stripped the jungle off the first 5m of Hocus Pocus.
T - Brean. Got back on Prisoner of Bullworker (7c+). Figured out slightly better beta for the horrid start, felt much stronger on the crimpy middle section than last year, and I know the bullworker crux is just knacky. Feels like it should go...
F - Rest
S - Pembroke, lovely morning on some classic routes I'd previously missed. Then it started raining.
S - Pembroke. Got up the courage to have a go at Get Some In (E5 6a), dispatched with no real issues! Get in! First 'proper' E5 I think, and it didn't even feel that hard (it never does when it goes well). I must be fit at the moment or something

STG
  • A few Cheddar N routes I've had my eyes on. Tick Sing a Mean Toon, Kid (7b+); Other candidates: Human Zoo (7c), Everyday Lives of Ordinary People (7c)
  • Progress on a sport project. I have Right-Hand Man (8a) and Prisoner of Bullworker (7c+) sort of on the go, so it depends where I end up
  • Running: over 100km in August, including 1 week with 50km. Going for the big week this week. Expect injury complaints next Sunday

    MTG
  • Sub-90 in Bristol half in September
  • A tick of Right-Hand Man (8a) doesn't seem completely out of the question...

    LTG
  • Snowdonia marathon 2017
  • All the Avon Gorge routes in the West Country Climbs Rockfax. Rained off Hocus Pocus this week

    BHAG
  • The Long Hope Route
  • Black Bean
  •  Emily 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    > S - Pembroke. Got up the courage to have a go at Get Some In (E5 6a), dispatched with no real issues! Get in! First 'proper' E5 I think, and it didn't even feel that hard (it never does when it goes well). I must be fit at the moment or something

    Didn't want to steal his thunder by posting about it first but the highlight of the Pembroke weekend was definitely belaying Nick's absolute cruising of this. Seriously impressive!
     JayK 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Great tick in St Govans! That's been on my ticklish for some time!
     hms 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    totally knackered after a busy weekend. The week itself has turned into a bit of a blur, so this is best guess as to what I did:

    M - cycsle commute, cycle on to UCR, circuits with D1. Many many goes on the 7a & 6c+ circuits, which are both small holds and no rest possibilities. Sure they are very good for me, but can't actually get to the end on either. the 7a goes reliably in 2.
    T - cycle commute, shoulder rehab.
    W - cycle commute, TCA in evening trying the new v2-v4 set, plus playing on the mothership. Think there were 9 I couldn't do out of 30, but several of those are possible when less tired. Good session but far too hot and busy by the end.
    T - cycle commute, UCR in evening. 12 routes inc a good go on a new 7b which feels possible.
    F - shoulder rehab
    S - The Gap with Ally. Got on Encore Magnifique. Took some working, then on my redpoint got right to the top then foolishly went 1 hold higher than necessary to clip the chains and pinged off. May not be purist but I'm counting it, and it is a brilliant route.
    S - Cheddar. We had hoped that Sweet Tufa might be dry but it most definitely wasn't. Went down to The Wave. Sorted Islands in the City fairly easily. Got just as stuck on Insatiable (yes Nick, long arms really help!!). Hated Raw Deal - can't think of anything much more my anti-style than 8m of steep thugging followed by a dyno!

    Excellent weekend. Weather looks ok this week too so hoping to get out a couple of times.
     SteveM 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:
    Thanks for the welcome - my best previous on-sights were years ago on short slabby grit routes at E3. My ambitions have moved on a bit since then so HVS is just the next rung to climb back to my previous highpoint - "We do not rise to the level of our expectations. We fall to the level of our training." - Tao Te Ching

    STG (end of August)
    Re-establish fitness habits; get back climbing, running, biking and some antagonistics/core work
    Focus on trad outdoors
    Have a fun long bank holiday weekend at Pembroke - orange spot tick list printed out!

    MTG (end of 2016)
    Solid at UK HVS
    Regular exercise schedule

    LTG (2017 and beyond)
    Orange alpine circuit at Font
    Multi-day ski tours
    Denali
    Yosemite big walling again

    BHAG
    Big wall solo

    Last week was
    Mon Lunchtime run, 34 mins trails
    Tue Bouldering at Depot, 2 circuits (white & black). Finger pads too sore for extras on the bar at the end, just 3 sets of 10 push-ups
    Wed Lunchtime run, 45 mins road
    Thu Leading at Harrogate, climbing for volume F6a to F6a+. Plus 3 sets of 5 pull-ups, 10 push-ups and 5 leg raises
    Fri Bike to work and back, 1h+ each way 35 miles total
    Sat Run up Snowdon, 2h30 car to car followed by an all day breakfast at Pete's
    Sun Trad at Tremadog: Shadrach with Brothers Start (VS), Merlin Direct (HVS) and Grim Wall (VS) and an all day breakfast at Eric's - an excellent day out with my best mate, need to do days like this more often.

    Lessons learnt this last fortnight: I need to get with the flow more and engage with the climbing itself rather than viewing the route as a progression from one piece of gear to another; a successful climb is not necessarily the one which has been laced with as many pieces as possible. And I like feeling slightly sore like I "did something" yesterday.



     Nick Russell 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to JayK:

    Thanks JayK. You should get down there, I'm sure you'd crush it!
     Ally Smith 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Ha - i doubt it - JayK isn't renowned for his stamina...
     Ally Smith 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    Thanks Si - Free Monster sounds promising to me - doing all the moves and some links in your first session is a very good sign.

    Q3 functional goals:
    - Benchmark finger strength % - Done. Now aiming for 2% point increase
    - Benchmark an-cap – Done. Now aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
    - Aim to increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions. (The reality might be some way off as all core training is cancelled until back is better)

    August route goals:
    - Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
    - Clean and do Gorge projects:
    o Link-up heaven; stamina f8a+/b?
    o Devil’s Haircut extension; bouldery f8a+/b?
    - Bolt, clean and try rest of Kilnsey project – probably a 2017 RP aim now?
    - Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b

    End of year route goals:
    Continue with RP’ing projects (listed from stamina to boulder intensity):
    - Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
    - Bolt and clean rest of Kilnsey project
    - Gorge projects, both f8a+/b
    - Well Done Finish, f8b
    - Waddage, f8b
    - Cider Soak, f8a
    - Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
    - Tor link-up, f8a+/b

    Week 32:
    M - The back had eased off enough during the day to consider a fingerboard session. Built up very slowly and worked out that 10s static hang should replicate the previous double pull-up “max hang” session without aggravating elbows (which are otherwise fine, but I can feel a grumble after a heavy weighted pull-up).
    Worked out some current benchmark values for various grips – mostly well down on Oct 2015 PBs, except 35 degree sloper, back-2 and middle-2 which were surprisingly close or exceeded previous best efforts.
    Then did some other an-cap benchmarks (also well down on PBs) so now I have all the data I need and have an embryonic plan of action to get stronger and more an-cap’d in the next 6 weeks.
    T - Rest. Rolling about on a tennis ball & stretching
    W - 10:3 @ 70%. Short hard session, but back coped. Values down ~20% on last year for drag. Some gains to be had here for sure. Had planned to test back-3 drag @ 70% and do some aero-cap, but ran out of time and had to travel to the midlands for work.
    T - Nothing – away – gluttonous dinner.
    F - Nothing – work and then travel to Bristol.
    S - The Gap – fiddly vert decided to be best for back. 6b & 7a OS for warm-ups. Encore! Magnifique! (7b+) OS was a fight. A Momentary Lapse of Reason (7b+) 7b+/c was too hard for the OS, so worked it. Fluffed it, RP’d it and continued through the roof for the FA of the project extension. It’s about 7c+. i will write something in the blog soon - got some photos and video to edit together. Naming rights have been passed to the lady - but she hasn’t come up with anything yet…
    S - Cheddar. 6c+ (sandbag) & very pleasant Joyride (7a) warm-ups, then on to the wave and several goes to work out then RP Utility Cock (7c+). 7a+ & 7a retro-flash warm-downs.
     Tyler 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Good effort on Get Some In, first E5 OS is a good milestone
     hokkyokusei 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    > Hi everyone!

    > Hokkyokusei - Good consistency in doing something every day and seems to be helping your 5k fitness?

    I think the benefit might have been more due to weight loss, but I'm sure it all helps

    m - 10 k cycling
    t - 7 k trail run ~36 min, 4 k warm up run then 4 x 500 m with 200 m recovery
    w - 10 k cycling
    t - 15 k trail run
    f - rest
    s - rest
    s - 21 k running, 2:27, Cross Bay Challenge - my worst half marathon time ever! In my defense I was running into brutal wind for most of the way and wading through several knee high water channels. I don't think I'll be going back next year!

    Wanted to do more reps on Tuesday but, I was a bit tired after the run at lunch time.

    7 day average weight: 79.1kg, body fat 18.3%.

    Both bad! Although I ate healthily, I think I just ate and drank far too much last week. Need to be harder on myself next week.

    STG - parkrun PBs at Bradford or Halifax.
    MTG - Complete the Yorkshireman Marathon (September) in 5hr30min
     jas128 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    Thanks for the stats. The lack of psyche seems to generally be a combination of everything, I often just mentally switch off from actually wanting to get the climb done, despite the fact I do want to do it! I don't think its fear of failure - both the things of trying currently are at the top end of my grade and I know I can do them, just after a go or two I can't be bothered to keep trying.

    Not much done this week. Mix of feeling a bit off and a first aid course at the weekend which meant I couldn't get out. Hopefully getting back to woodcroft quarry and/or cheddar this week.

    M: circuits. Flashed 6a and 6b circuit no problem. play on 6c+ and 7a which need work. Mainly lacking stamina currently which isn't helping.
    T: Nothing
    W: fingerboard session
    Th: Nothing
    Fri: Nothing
    Sat: first aid course
    Sun: first aid course
     AJM 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to JayK:

    > F-Wallsend. Buoyed by AJM's recent ascent of Saskwatch I went for a look (Tried it in 2013 but it was wet). Well it was absolutely soaked. So I moved over to have a look at Realm of Chaos instead which was also soaked... Pressed on and put the draws in, with the hope that when the sun came onto the wall it would dry it out. It did and wow - what a route. Probably the best route I've done in England. If anyone is down there looking for a 7b+ - this has everything.

    Yeah wallsend is rubbish until the sun comes on it - a crag which rewards a lie in!
     AJM 08 Aug 2016
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    > S - Pembroke. Got up the courage to have a go at Get Some In (E5 6a), dispatched with no real issues! Get in! First 'proper' E5 I think, and it didn't even feel that hard (it never does when it goes well). I must be fit at the moment or something

    Good effort Nick, nice one.
     Climbthatpitch 10 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    Thanks Si dH

    Yeah it is always good to get new people out climbing. I been debating which climb to try first scavenger or Arch slab but I think it will be scavenger now if you think it is a good route.

    This weeks STG
    Get back to training and drop to 82kg - Fail still 83kg

    Next weeks goals
    Drop to 82kg

    MTG Sept 2016
    Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
    Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b)
    Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) Scavenger (VS 4c)The Druid (VS 4c) by end of Sept

    LTG winter 2016/2017
    Get experience in Scottish winter

    BHAG
    Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
    Orion Face Direct (V 5)

    Monday - Run 60 minuites
    Tuesday - Rest.
    Wednesday - Rest.
    Thursday - Took the kids bouldering at LLangorse. I managed to get on quite a few problems as well upto 6b
    Friday - Climbed Left Hand Route (HS 4b) - Top pitch had one really dodgy peg, the peg at the top seamed a lot better though
    Saturday - Rest
    Sunday - 4 hour walk around the brecon beacons.

    Not as high a volume as I wanted this week but will have to increase this next week now

    Happy Training
    Lee
     Nick Russell 11 Aug 2016
    I know a few people on here frequent Malham and Kilnsey... anybody going out this weekend? Emily and I are going to be in Leeds and thinking of going one of the days. It would be good if somebody was there to point out the classics/sandbags!
    In reply to Si dH:

    Left-hand Route (E1 5b) - pretty straightforward, just required some power (which was lacking by that point in the week) so made it look ugly. Ben had been keen for Brown's Blunder (VS 4c) but it was so green and nettly we couldn't be bothered. I want to do something on Ilam Rock as I'm really into climbing pointy things at the moment. Definitely have plans for Jerry's - just need to be in the Peak!!! (weekend of 19-21 here I come!)
    OP Si dH 11 Aug 2016
    In reply to Just Tintin:

    Cool. If you go back, the best E1 there is George, absolutely brilliant
     Tyler 11 Aug 2016
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    Not me this weekend as I'm injured and also heading to Edinbrugh.

    Are you sure you want go, it may spoil the Avon Gorge for you forever
     Nick Russell 11 Aug 2016
    In reply to Tyler:

    Ha, I'll take the risk!
     Dandan 12 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    I'm back! I'll do a write up next week as my holiday bridged across two weeks, nothing hugely exciting to report though, it was definitely a summer holiday with a bit of climbing thrown in, and not the other way around, good fun though!
     Ally Smith 12 Aug 2016
    In reply to Si dH:

    http://allysmithblog.blogspot.com/2016/08/another-newbie-enter-sandman-7c-g...

    Last weekend's new route write-up.

    Video of Sunday's climbing is taking much longer than anticipated to edit into something cohesive (Ski and safari video's even longer!!)
    In reply to Si dH:
    Yes definitely on the list! Found Brutus ridiculously easy so slightly perplexed by the Dovedale E1 at the moment!
    OP Si dH 13 Aug 2016
    In reply to Dandan:

    Are you ok to start the thread again tomorrow?
    OP Si dH 13 Aug 2016
    In reply to Just Tintin:

    I remember Brutus being ok at the grade, whereas left hand route (I've not done it) I thought was a known awkward sandbag, so that would explain one feeling harder!
    George is harder than Brutus but not much, the crux just feels a bit intimidating.

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