UKC

I am currently 15 and very interested in entering the gb youth bouldering team. (I would be in youth A). I can flash V7/V8 and i have projected up to V10 indoors. I am also working on a V15 outdoors(however I havent got very far yet!!). Am I good enough to get in the team? If so, how can I go about getting in to the team. I am aware of the ycs however my lead climbing lacks ability to the level of my bouldering. Is there a comp I can enter to get in or should I send past results to the BMC? I really need to get in by next Summer or not at all because then I either have to go to college or pursue my climbing career. Many thanks,

Tom Slater

In reply to Tom Slater:

info is all on the BMC website, check it out

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/gb-climbing-teams-overview?s=1

In reply to Tom Slater:

As Simon says, it's all on the bmc website, but one thing you must do is enter the bmc youth open comps , and the Youth Climbing Series - again, dates on website. In the meantime, find a local wall with a coach experienced in comps so you can learn the mental aspects too.
But most of all, climb as much as possible, practice reading 4 outer and on sighting, and enjoy it!
Ian Walton
Chair , BMC comps committee.

In reply to Ian W:

Surely not the YCS as he is a boulderer.

Also the selection process has changed this year & there will be a selection weekend I think this December.

In reply to Tom Slater:

The BMC site is a bit of a train crash, very difficult to navigate but if you want a link this is probably the best:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/junior-british-bouldering-championships

Sometimes using the calendar is a quicker way of navigating, but there are no youth comps in the calendar ATM.

There is an announcement due this month (August) it says in that link, to reveal exciting new possibilities for youth comps, so watch that space, probably December is the first one to look forwards to.

V8 is the benchmark for the YCS finals so you're nearly there but you'd have to do very well at both the YCS and the new comps to leapfrog into the team if you don't have comp experience and a record of success.

Generally, I think the feeling is that if you can't add leading success to your bow you won't get into the bouldering team, as it demonstrates mental toughness and desire.

Depending on where you are, do some good local comps to gain experience and show you can win.

In reply to Richard Wilson:

The YCS includes bouldering and leading. I suggest this as it's a good introduction to national comps. If he's purely a boulderer, then yes, the youth open at the end of the year is a given, but he would do well to get as much comp experience as possible. There are a lot of very strong, competition savvy climbers out there!
And Tom, as I said before, train hard, and give it a go!

In reply to Tom Slater:

Hey guys, thanks for the replys - what grade would i need to be able to lead flash and boulder flash to do well in the final of the youth climbing series? Would V9 and 7c be good enough? Thanks!

In reply to Tom Slater

You would need to do those grades on the day, so if your best onsight is 7c, you would struggle. If you have regularly on sighted 7c, you'd be okay. In order to win youth b, your going to have to do better than 7c.
Which area do you live in?

In reply to Richard Wilson:



Yes, you are right. I should really know, I'm the jury president / chief judge!

In reply to Ian W:

Im from up in the lakes, however i think that i will be in youth A next year. What grades do you think i would have to regulary climb to win?

In reply to Tom Slater:

Hi tom,
If you are in the lakes and dead keen, you have loads of possible help. There's A Iden Roberts, who last year was European Champion. Also much good coaching and climbing help can be got front Neil Gresham, will Jackson, Ali Cornforth, amongst others. Rich and Ellie Cox also attend most comps, I'll ask if he minds me passing you his email address.
Regarding walls, there's a good youth squad at keswick (kong adventure) or eden rock in Carlisle. Not sure about kendal yet.

In reply to Ian W:

Many thanks! Do you have any idea of the grades which i would have to climb to succeed in the ycs in youth A? Just as a guideline that I can work towards?

In reply to Tom Slater:
Youth A is the most competitive category for the GB bouldering and GB lead team with several very good climbers. The YCS is a fun competition and good for getting competition experience but will not get you on the GB team especially not in Youth A. GB climbers are ineligible for the YCS.
Look for some of the Boulder comps at walls in the Autumn. If you are Lakes based then the Depot Youth Cup at Manchester Depot and Rockfest at Rockover, Manchester might be good to get you going.
To test yourself against the lead climbers , come along to the BLCCs in September in Sheffield. This is one of the events that counts towards selection for the Lead team.
Then keep an eye on the BMC website for information on the new GB development squad. The try out weekend should be at the first weekend of December.
In the new year, you will be able to enter the YCS and there should be news regarding the first Open Youth events of the year. The Open Youth comps are absolutely key to gaining and retaining GB places.
For additional Boulder practice on world class setting, look out for the CWIF competition in Sheffield at the Climbing Works usually in March time. If you are prepared to travel further afield, then enter some rounds of Blockfest (London and South East based). Then next July, there will be the British Bouldering Championships.
The best way not to miss any comps or events is to follow the BMC on Twitter together with a range of climbing walls.
With regards to training, the grade range for YCS is on the BMC website but most areas will push the grades harder. The key thing is to get experience on a range of walls with a variety of different route setters. Push yourself to practise using holds and moves that are out of your comfort zone on lots of different angles. You mention a moonboard on another post and while that will make you stronger and impact on your climbing long term, short term you need to work on training on the sort of walls and climbs you will experience in competition.
Good luck in all your climbing endeavours. Keep enjoying it whatever else you do.

In reply to Tom Slater:


Please don't give up your education at 16 to pursue the youth bouldering team.

I'd very much hope the BMC will advise the same

In reply to Tom Slater:

Ian Dunn http://coachingclimbing.com/ coaches at Kendal Wall from time to time. Book half a days coaching from him and ask him outright if he thinks you have a chance. I am sure he would be in a pretty good position to tell you the honest truth about your abilities and what you might need to work on. Then as above, its a case of finding out how you handle competitions.

Job jobbed

In reply to Tom Slater:

Hi Tom,
Grades this year were; Boulders - V5 - V*, routes 7a+ to 8A.