UKC

Genius or solution?

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Tom Slater 11 Aug 2016
Hey, im climbing at about onsight V8/V9 indoors and I need some smaller shoes. Which one do you think the best would be? Solution or genius? (Im primarily a boulderer however i lead climb often and are planning at spending some time at malham cove over the next year! Thanks,
 Ban1 11 Aug 2016
In reply to Tom Slater:

Genius are great for sticking holds when your feet aren't always perfect. I think they are comfortable shoes. They do stretch a little. I always seen solutions as a roof/overhang shoe
 alx 11 Aug 2016
In reply to Tom Slater:

As a user of both and the Miura VS and Scarpa VS instincts, both shoes are excellent. The Solution toe hook is possibly the best on any shoe but the heel lets it down. The Genius heel and toe box are excellent but on technical face climbs or slabs the no edge really lets it down.

In truth, climbing indoors your not going to be pushing the limits of these shoes in which differentiation other than fit is possible, you could climb these grades in a pair of cliff 5's or hush puppies the above mentioned shoes excel on technical rock.

3
 galpinos 11 Aug 2016
In reply to Tom Slater:

Watch the final of a bouldering world cup round. How many of them are are in Genius' and how many in Solutions.......
 bouldery bits 11 Aug 2016
In reply to Tom Slater:

Solutions mate. If you're bouldering you can whip em on and off quicker.
 1poundSOCKS 11 Aug 2016
In reply to Tom Slater:

The Skwama seem to be getting popular, maybe try some of those on too.

BTW, I prefer stiff shoes at Malham, Vibram Edge rather than Vibram Grip. Sometimes I notice soft rubber can feel like it's rolling off the little edges. But indoors I tend to favour Grip (or other softer rubber).
 slab_happy 12 Aug 2016
In reply to Tom Slater:

Either would probably be great for what you have in mind -- asssuming they suit your foot shape.

If you've not tried them on yet, it's possible that neither will suit you, in which case, there are plenty of other down-turned technical shoes that would fit the bill and be worth a try.

Because you've mentioned in another thread that you're 15, I'd say watch out for downsizing *too* aggressively while your feet are still growing (actually, it's not a good idea at any age, but especially not while you're young). Messing up your feet for life will not help your climbing.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2658987/
 jkarran 12 Aug 2016
In reply to Tom Slater:

Which fit you the best?

Buy those and in a size that fits or you'll end up hobbling like me.
jk
Post edited at 12:48
 humptydumpty 12 Aug 2016
In reply to galpinos:

What's the answer?

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