UKC

In your opinion for the Costa blanca :
1. What's the best crag for a collection of routes of this grade ?
2. What are best routes in this grade range ( route + crag please ) ?
3. Any 7a /b s you think of with a good 6a/b to the same lower off or near enough to put the clips in/ take the clips out ?
4. If you were asked to choose the 3 best 7a s in the Costa blanca what would they be ?
5. In your opinion are kalymnos 7a s not really 7a ? ( 😡)

In reply to mike123:

If I was looking for those grades around there i'd aim for Pinos: Pinos
You will get some shared lower offs with easier (6b) routes.
But i'm not a 7a/b climber so could well be talking nonsense!

In reply to Mark Eddy:

Thanks Mark . Near to Calpe is a bonus .

In reply to Mark Eddy:



Pinos or Alcalali should fit the bill.

Alternatively, you can get up or across to most routes with a clipstick.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Thanks Rick, any routes you'd recommend ?

In reply to mike123:

Hey Mike

Pena Roja has a fab selection and La Bella is ***** see links .

Have a good one

Pena Roja (Lliber)
La bella (7b)

In reply to mike123:

All of them! Cannot remember any "bad" routes at Lliber Pinos or Alcalali.

In reply to sollyf:

A second for Pena Roja, brilliant routes

In reply to mike123:

If it's blazing sunshine and too hot for the likes of Alcalali then Castallet de Calp is worth a look. North facing and shady, with a good collection of generally soft-touch routes in the 7s. Of the ones I've done, I thought FHM (F7a) was good, as was Suero (F7b).

Another option is Sector Superheroes at Forada. Steep, generally juggy routes in the 7s and 8s. You can't go wrong with Starman (F7a), Spiderman (F7a) or Muscleman (F7b). The crag is north facing and at altitude, so good on hot days, but can be baltic if it's cool or if there's a wind blowing.

In reply to mike123:

Castellet de Calp is worth a visit. FHM (7a) and Ant Invasion (7a) are two good 7a's. Plenty of other stuff too. Not much in the 6's though.

In reply to mike123:

Hi Mike,

Second shout for Los Pinos - fab for 7a to 7b range. Stormbringer is fab (7a+) Poca Lizard is fab (7b)

Second shout for Pena Roja - fab for 7a to 7b range. La Bella 7b is outstanding as is Sulacco 7a+.

Alcalali a lovely crag. Great for 7a. Not good for 7b though. Most of the 7bs listed on ukc are actually in a fenced off area and not to be climbed. If memory serves there's only one route at alcalali above 7a+ that's accessible and that's an alternative start to 40 Thieves at 7b+.

Also look at Echo Valley - the crag very near road with Waka Plaka on it has if memory serves about 4 routes of 7a and 7a+ next to each other in a row. They are all stiff for their grade except the left hand one La Saga... which is benchmark 7a. All 4 are fab.

Best 3 7as in Costa Blanca IMHO? Akram the Terrible (Alcalali possibly softer end 7a), Espresso (Pinos hard 7a maybe deserves 7a+), Stolen fruit (Alcalali - given 7a but hard more like 7a+), Sulacco (Pena Roja - I know that makes 4 and sulacco gets 7a+ but its fab so I'm throwing it in!)

As for Kalymnos 7as being soft I'd say that times and grades are changing and Kaly grades are not all the soft touches they reputedly used to be. E.g I'm in Kaly now and just done Kastor at 7a and it felt benchmark 7a. I've done a lot of 7a in Costa Blanca and some (admitredly less) in Kaly and I don't feel there's that big a gap between them.

Whatever you choose, enjoy them. Good luck!

Christy

In reply to mike123:

Cannot believe nobody has mentioned The Magic Flute (7b) The Magic Flute (7b) up at Bernia. This is far and away the best sport route I've ever been on, it is simply stunning, totally worth the trip up there. Sadly didn't tick it that trip but I will one day!

A 7a I really enjoyed was up at Olta, called Lyenga which also has some classic 6b+, great crag.

In reply to spidermonkey09:

thanks all. putting a list together.

In reply to mike123: there is a ticklist on here made by biggo Fifteen 15 3* sport 7a/a+'s in Costa Blanca ticklist

In reply to mike123:

The routes at Pinos and Echo I think are a little short and crimpy, but if that's what you're after.

Acalali and Pena Rojo are great routes but perhaps showing their popularity.

Wildside is totally awesome starting from 7b really, so maybe warm up on the way at Sella.

Forada is polished. Mr James suggested that Ellios was worth the air fare alone.

Bernia, Magic flute is awesome, every time I climb it, I climb it differently, pumpy onsighting heaven! Not much else up there at that grade.

Sella. La Cosa is probably the easiest 7a around, Golpe 7a+ just has one hard reachy move. Acrabata 7a has lost part of the last hold so is slightly harder now, The new routes myself and Tony have bolted at Doggy and Bear sectors are not polished at all. Free topos on line for these.

Rincon Bello has everything from 6a to low 8's, looong routes 40m. Best grades 6c to 7c.

You didn't mention multi pitch, El Navagante, Puto Paseo and Sin Permiso on the Penon are some of the best routes I've ever done.

Toix, Pirates has two pitch routes in those grades.

There are some very exciting new crags being developed at the moment so keep an eye on the new routes. https://web.facebook.com/theorangehousespain/

Have fun Rich Orange House

In reply to Rich Mayfield: hi Rich, I don't suppose you know where I could get a topo for Sombra del Leon? All my attempts have failed so far. Cheers Neil

In reply to Neil Morrison:

Think I've got something on my hard drive, not in the office at the mo. Post you a link when I find it.

In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Hi Rich

Do you have any of the info on the routes in the montgo cave was out there with a guide called Sergi in Feb routes just been bolted were amazing but cant find any details?

Hope your well

Cheers

Macca

In reply to mike123:

'Sector Potent' at Gandia has quite a few really decent routes in the grade band you're after. Can't remember if they have easier quick-ups adjacent though, sorry.

Gandia

In reply to Macca_7:

Rich is rubbish at checking on here and today he is off climbing in the most gobsmacking cave here in BG!

I will nudge him later but you can find him on facebook and he is more likely to reply on there.

regards Sam Orange

In reply to mike123:

I'm not sure you can get yellow trousers in XXXL fatty

In reply to mike123:

Just to add something less known, but which many of the locals call 'the best of Costa Blanca' in the cold season: Cocentaina, Mas de la Pena. 3 routes under 7a to warm up, the rest is paradise: long (40m), sustained, mix of overhangs, tuffas and 'placa'. 35 min drive from Alicante.
Some sectors mentioned above like Forada are indeed superb for the ranges you are looking for, but make sure you know in what season you go. In July, 10am, I still wore goosedown. Rincon Bello is just a tad warmer.

In reply to Lucian:
Thanks Lucian. Will definitly check it out.

In reply to mike123:

I don't find kalymnos 7a or any other 7s soft there. They are friggin steep and long and peak limestone isn't!

I'm sure if there was 7m crimpy, slightly loose route with broken holds and sika everywhere at 7c in kaly, I'd find it soft but 45m of overhanging pinches? haha, spanked by the 4th bolt everytime. I just go for the food really.

In reply to mike123:

Anything else?

In reply to Bulls Crack:

I m thinking of replacing my mazzer mini doser with something grind on demand but the mini electronic is a bit spendy. any thoughts ?
oh yes, any recommendations for getting my pink triangle anni serviced ?
and er....is the hotel imperial in delhi still any good ?

In reply to mike123:

I'd look at a K10's and Kony's as an upgrade fro the Mazzer and True-Point (UK) offer servicing on the pta.

Not sure about the hotel - I usually camp

In reply to Bulls Crack:
not sure the konys are that much better than mazzers really ?
used to stay at the tourist camp in the middle of delhi but they built an office block over it, much prefer home comforts now.
have you used true point ?
edit : the imperial is posher than our house. not by much mind.
edit 2: any thoughts on the op ?

In reply to mike123:

Orihuela: Plenty of sectors with lots of 7's (raiguero, Valle, SA sector, Pyramid). Sun and shade.
Lots os secret spots yet.

David Mora
Mountain Guide

In reply to mike123:

Forada. Superheroes sector. Bring a coat though.

In reply to mike123:

Not quite on topic to your question - but I am also in the 7a range and getting to Calpe in a month for 2mo of climbing. Would love to find some ppl to climb bolts with. Will be traveling with my non-climber wife.