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Morning all!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=647290
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s posters:
Heelhookofglory - Ill again? Rubbish! Hope you are feeling better now?
JayK - Well done on Mirrors, I did it on a sweaty May day too!
Si dH - Sounds like a promising start on the Free Monster
Biscuit - You are really getting stuck into the bulge! I enjoy focussing on a single route for a period but I know some people get bored easily, not you I guess?
Tyler - Sorry to hear there is no progress on the shoulder, been there. Maybe a few weeks of easy trad to let it recover?
Curious Yellow - Good job on the flash, the Vulcan crux is tough, V6-7? It’s still on my to do list…
Ian Bell - Congrats on the 7b and the bonus 7a! What’s next on the list?
Emily - Glad there is some progress on the mind games, what’s so funny about being put on a 7b? Go for it!
Nick Russell - It’s great when you re-visit a route and you feel a lot stronger, were you surprised or was it expected due to your training/climbing since last year?
Hms - 5 climbing days?! Blimey!
SteveM - Tao Te Ching sounds like a smart man. I’m also a fan of the ‘did something’ soreness!
Ally Smith - Glad the back is easing up, although it doesn’t seem to be holding you back all that much, good ticks!
Hokkyokusei - Have you managed to rein in your eating this week?!
D1 - The psyche drain does kind of sound like its energy related, keep feeding yourself when you are on the rock! That sad I only usually managed 2 or 3 goes on a hard route in a session, we can’t all be Alex Megos and get the tick on the 8th go that day!
Leeboy1985 - Get that volume up and the weight loss will surely follow…
Dandan82 - Mmmm, Mythos
AJM - Athough you posted some comments you didn’t actually post a fit club entry?
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=647290
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s posters:
Heelhookofglory - Ill again? Rubbish! Hope you are feeling better now?
JayK - Well done on Mirrors, I did it on a sweaty May day too!
Si dH - Sounds like a promising start on the Free Monster
Biscuit - You are really getting stuck into the bulge! I enjoy focussing on a single route for a period but I know some people get bored easily, not you I guess?
Tyler - Sorry to hear there is no progress on the shoulder, been there. Maybe a few weeks of easy trad to let it recover?
Curious Yellow - Good job on the flash, the Vulcan crux is tough, V6-7? It’s still on my to do list…
Ian Bell - Congrats on the 7b and the bonus 7a! What’s next on the list?
Emily - Glad there is some progress on the mind games, what’s so funny about being put on a 7b? Go for it!
Nick Russell - It’s great when you re-visit a route and you feel a lot stronger, were you surprised or was it expected due to your training/climbing since last year?
Hms - 5 climbing days?! Blimey!
SteveM - Tao Te Ching sounds like a smart man. I’m also a fan of the ‘did something’ soreness!
Ally Smith - Glad the back is easing up, although it doesn’t seem to be holding you back all that much, good ticks!
Hokkyokusei - Have you managed to rein in your eating this week?!
D1 - The psyche drain does kind of sound like its energy related, keep feeding yourself when you are on the rock! That sad I only usually managed 2 or 3 goes on a hard route in a session, we can’t all be Alex Megos and get the tick on the 8th go that day!
Leeboy1985 - Get that volume up and the weight loss will surely follow…
Dandan82 - Mmmm, Mythos
AJM - Athough you posted some comments you didn’t actually post a fit club entry?
In reply to Dandan:
I didn't do much in the week before Switzerland (I think digging out a tree stump and other gardening was about it?), and I figured that I might as well do Switzerland in one hit rather than break it up.
I'm flying back tonight so will probably try to post more fully either from the airport or from tomorrow's train home about the trip itself.
> AJM - Athough you posted some comments you didn’t actually post a fit club entry?
I didn't do much in the week before Switzerland (I think digging out a tree stump and other gardening was about it?), and I figured that I might as well do Switzerland in one hit rather than break it up.
I'm flying back tonight so will probably try to post more fully either from the airport or from tomorrow's train home about the trip itself.
1
In reply to Dandan:
I've been AWOL for a little while due to illness. Still on the recovery end of things, so no climbing (or any strenuous activity of any kind) hence my absence for the past few weeks. Many thanks to Tintin for emailing me to see how I was, it was very nice of her. Hope to be back in a couple of weeks time.
I've been AWOL for a little while due to illness. Still on the recovery end of things, so no climbing (or any strenuous activity of any kind) hence my absence for the past few weeks. Many thanks to Tintin for emailing me to see how I was, it was very nice of her. Hope to be back in a couple of weeks time.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan, yep, I think Free Monster is going pretty well so far. Definitely psyched to stick with it after the first two sessions now.
2016 goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B) (done)
- moffatrocity (f7B+) (done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
- Arch Enemies (7c+) (done)
- The Free Monster (8a)
M: Rest
T: Despite having previously made a conscious decision to leave it until autumn, the conditions early morning looked really good so I took a half day off work and went to try Eastwood Traverse again. After warming up I had one good attempt where I felt strong and think I might have done it but my right hand just slipped a bit on the crimp near the end and I then couldn't get my feet across to drop in to the drop in to the rail. After that it basically went downhill, I think I had about 5 more attempts but it was a disappointing session. I'm spending too long thinking about failing while actually climbing! Also possibly partly due to lack of sleep and only 1 days' rest.
In the evening I did a max hang session on the fingerboard. Warm up then 4x 10 second one arm hangs with (-13.6kg) on either side (half crimp on 20mm edge). Then 4 x 10 second one arm hangs with (-6.8 kg) on either side (front 3 in good BM2000 pockets). Then 4 x 10 second hangs two-handed pinching my ceiling beams with +6.8kg. Finally a couple of 10 second hangs off the back 2 pockets (two arms) with bodyweight. Also did some core work (trying to progress towards a front lever while warming up my fingers for the max hang session.)
W: Core session in the morning, and some rehab work.
T: Max hang session on fingerboard. As per Tuesday evening but reduced the weight off to (-12.4kg) on the first set of hangs (either hand) and managed this just about ok.
F: Just shoulder rehab work
S: Rest
S: Second session on Free Monster. Pretty good, I have now got sequences I'm pretty happy with for all the moves, and have done 3 good links:
- from ground to mid-crux (about half height)
- from a couple of moves below the crux where it starts getting properly steep, to a couple of moves from the top
- from immediately post-crux to the top
I think the crux is harder than that on Arch Enemies (so probably about Ft 6C/+ as a sequence), but is lower down. After that you've mostly just got to keep going on good holds and have decent footwork. The problems are (a) there is a hard move on the initial starting wall which is very droppable - I only get it 50% of the time, (b) I need to hit all the holds just right to do the crux so again it's only about 50%, (c) there's a lot of physical climbing left above that so I'm pretty tired after 3 goes up the route.
Injury catalogue: no significant change in left shoulder this week. No right middle finger grumbles which is good, hoping things stay that way. Felt both my elbows a little after two ahrd days last Sunday and on Tuesday, so been doing some elbow rehab as well as shoulder rehab on Wednesday/Thursday/Friday. No pain from them today so that's good. Left index finger no change although it (painlessly) crunches slightly when I full crimp over it on the crux of Free Monster...
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 1lb.
Good week, training went well, managed injuries and some more good progress today. I'm keeping a positive mindset about Tuesday...that traverse will go eventually but I need to take a break from it.
Finding the max one arm hang training to be slightly less finger intensive than max 2 arm hangs but more elbow and shoulder intensive.
Si
Cheers Dan, yep, I think Free Monster is going pretty well so far. Definitely psyched to stick with it after the first two sessions now.
2016 goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B) (done)
- moffatrocity (f7B+) (done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
- Arch Enemies (7c+) (done)
- The Free Monster (8a)
M: Rest
T: Despite having previously made a conscious decision to leave it until autumn, the conditions early morning looked really good so I took a half day off work and went to try Eastwood Traverse again. After warming up I had one good attempt where I felt strong and think I might have done it but my right hand just slipped a bit on the crimp near the end and I then couldn't get my feet across to drop in to the drop in to the rail. After that it basically went downhill, I think I had about 5 more attempts but it was a disappointing session. I'm spending too long thinking about failing while actually climbing! Also possibly partly due to lack of sleep and only 1 days' rest.
In the evening I did a max hang session on the fingerboard. Warm up then 4x 10 second one arm hangs with (-13.6kg) on either side (half crimp on 20mm edge). Then 4 x 10 second one arm hangs with (-6.8 kg) on either side (front 3 in good BM2000 pockets). Then 4 x 10 second hangs two-handed pinching my ceiling beams with +6.8kg. Finally a couple of 10 second hangs off the back 2 pockets (two arms) with bodyweight. Also did some core work (trying to progress towards a front lever while warming up my fingers for the max hang session.)
W: Core session in the morning, and some rehab work.
T: Max hang session on fingerboard. As per Tuesday evening but reduced the weight off to (-12.4kg) on the first set of hangs (either hand) and managed this just about ok.
F: Just shoulder rehab work
S: Rest
S: Second session on Free Monster. Pretty good, I have now got sequences I'm pretty happy with for all the moves, and have done 3 good links:
- from ground to mid-crux (about half height)
- from a couple of moves below the crux where it starts getting properly steep, to a couple of moves from the top
- from immediately post-crux to the top
I think the crux is harder than that on Arch Enemies (so probably about Ft 6C/+ as a sequence), but is lower down. After that you've mostly just got to keep going on good holds and have decent footwork. The problems are (a) there is a hard move on the initial starting wall which is very droppable - I only get it 50% of the time, (b) I need to hit all the holds just right to do the crux so again it's only about 50%, (c) there's a lot of physical climbing left above that so I'm pretty tired after 3 goes up the route.
Injury catalogue: no significant change in left shoulder this week. No right middle finger grumbles which is good, hoping things stay that way. Felt both my elbows a little after two ahrd days last Sunday and on Tuesday, so been doing some elbow rehab as well as shoulder rehab on Wednesday/Thursday/Friday. No pain from them today so that's good. Left index finger no change although it (painlessly) crunches slightly when I full crimp over it on the crux of Free Monster...
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 1lb.
Good week, training went well, managed injuries and some more good progress today. I'm keeping a positive mindset about Tuesday...that traverse will go eventually but I need to take a break from it.
Finding the max one arm hang training to be slightly less finger intensive than max 2 arm hangs but more elbow and shoulder intensive.
Si
Post edited at 19:20
1
In reply to Dandan:
thanks Dan. Bit of a mixed bag this week:
M - cycle commute.
T - cyce commute. evening at Woodcroft, trying the grotty little 7b+ again. Still a move I just can't work out, getting frustrating. Suprisingly cold evning too, D1 & I were caught out as the routes were in the shade and a nasty cold gusty wind was blasting round the quarry.
W - cycle commute. 2 mile walk.
T - cycle commute. Evening session at Armistice. Oh so nearly got Remembrance but some foot swap spat me off. Second lead attempt was disasterous. Because I wasn't pumped (and because my belayer was getting twitchy cos her mobile phone battery was dying) I only waited 20 mins. Then found that I just could not hold the little holds, my fingers had zero strength. A lesson learned - fingers need time to recover too!
F - travel to visit parents
S - travel back from parents
S - waited in as the MiL was supposed to be calling in in passing on her way back home. She never turned up, so all the morning was wasted. Afternoon hit on UCR, dozen routes inc onsight of a new 7a, 2 goes of a 7b (came off getting hold before the top jug so really close). Felt really strong.
The visit to the parents was a bit distressing. My previously extremely fit and active father, now in his early 80s, has in the last 6 or so months suffered from massive loss of balance and can now only walk at a shuffle. Made me all the more keen to get out and enjoy climbing as much as I can whilst I'm still (relatively) young and fit.
thanks Dan. Bit of a mixed bag this week:
M - cycle commute.
T - cyce commute. evening at Woodcroft, trying the grotty little 7b+ again. Still a move I just can't work out, getting frustrating. Suprisingly cold evning too, D1 & I were caught out as the routes were in the shade and a nasty cold gusty wind was blasting round the quarry.
W - cycle commute. 2 mile walk.
T - cycle commute. Evening session at Armistice. Oh so nearly got Remembrance but some foot swap spat me off. Second lead attempt was disasterous. Because I wasn't pumped (and because my belayer was getting twitchy cos her mobile phone battery was dying) I only waited 20 mins. Then found that I just could not hold the little holds, my fingers had zero strength. A lesson learned - fingers need time to recover too!
F - travel to visit parents
S - travel back from parents
S - waited in as the MiL was supposed to be calling in in passing on her way back home. She never turned up, so all the morning was wasted. Afternoon hit on UCR, dozen routes inc onsight of a new 7a, 2 goes of a 7b (came off getting hold before the top jug so really close). Felt really strong.
The visit to the parents was a bit distressing. My previously extremely fit and active father, now in his early 80s, has in the last 6 or so months suffered from massive loss of balance and can now only walk at a shuffle. Made me all the more keen to get out and enjoy climbing as much as I can whilst I'm still (relatively) young and fit.
1
In reply to hms:
Sad news
Switzerland then (waiting to board plane).....
A fun trip.
Had a weekend with mrsAJM at the start, we tried a route on Engelhorner but were thwarted by sore feet after 8 pitches or so. However, mrsAJM was disappointed not to have been able to do more which is a big positive because it's going to be important next year that she's as psyched as possible to get stuck back into climbing, will make it easier to make things happen.
Swapped Ali for Duncan Tuesday evening. Did some sport climbing at lehn, which is still a good crag which I still usually go to in poor conditions. Anyway, did a 7a second go and got bored of falling off a 7b+ trying to find a sequence and/or some holds which weren't slopey crimps.
Also went up to grimselpass and did a quick trip up Fair Hands Line in an afternoon, I'd done it so long ago I had no real memories of it and really enjoyed going up it at a decent pace.
Big event was wendenstock yesterday to try Excalibur. Apparently the third easiest route on the cliff and we had already done 1&2. We got 7 pitches done of 10 before retreating off p8. I pulled on a bolt on the second pitch (super techy blind slopey pockets) and my foot slipped on my first go seconding the crux. It's nominally 6b, but to put it into context my friends received beta was "it's harder than Flaky Wall", there were no pitches easier than E2 (one might have been but it was running with water) and the crux was every bit of E4. A sensible rack is definitely needed to place in between the spaced fixed gear. It's a funny place, I spent half my time terrified but it draws me back - immaculate rock in a superb position and so many quality lines to go at. Whilst my performance wasn't amazing this year I was definitely in a far better place than last year and managed the head games a bit better so I'm pleased with things overall.
Got some trad plans the next few weekends I hope so maybe see if it translates. Then hopefully a mix of infinite gravity and cider soak after that.
> The visit to the parents was a bit distressing. My previously extremely fit and active father, now in his early 80s, has in the last 6 or so months suffered from massive loss of balance and can now only walk at a shuffle. Made me all the more keen to get out and enjoy climbing as much as I can whilst I'm still (relatively) young and fit.
Sad news
Switzerland then (waiting to board plane).....
A fun trip.
Had a weekend with mrsAJM at the start, we tried a route on Engelhorner but were thwarted by sore feet after 8 pitches or so. However, mrsAJM was disappointed not to have been able to do more which is a big positive because it's going to be important next year that she's as psyched as possible to get stuck back into climbing, will make it easier to make things happen.
Swapped Ali for Duncan Tuesday evening. Did some sport climbing at lehn, which is still a good crag which I still usually go to in poor conditions. Anyway, did a 7a second go and got bored of falling off a 7b+ trying to find a sequence and/or some holds which weren't slopey crimps.
Also went up to grimselpass and did a quick trip up Fair Hands Line in an afternoon, I'd done it so long ago I had no real memories of it and really enjoyed going up it at a decent pace.
Big event was wendenstock yesterday to try Excalibur. Apparently the third easiest route on the cliff and we had already done 1&2. We got 7 pitches done of 10 before retreating off p8. I pulled on a bolt on the second pitch (super techy blind slopey pockets) and my foot slipped on my first go seconding the crux. It's nominally 6b, but to put it into context my friends received beta was "it's harder than Flaky Wall", there were no pitches easier than E2 (one might have been but it was running with water) and the crux was every bit of E4. A sensible rack is definitely needed to place in between the spaced fixed gear. It's a funny place, I spent half my time terrified but it draws me back - immaculate rock in a superb position and so many quality lines to go at. Whilst my performance wasn't amazing this year I was definitely in a far better place than last year and managed the head games a bit better so I'm pleased with things overall.
Got some trad plans the next few weekends I hope so maybe see if it translates. Then hopefully a mix of infinite gravity and cider soak after that.
Post edited at 20:10
1
In reply to Dandan:
MTGs (end of August):
* get fit for the alps [DONE?!]
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (6c+) (aid allowed) [DONE!]
BHAG
* F8a in 2017 (Kalymnos, obvs)
Haven't posted in a couple of months, but thanks to Dan, Si and the rest of you for the motivation when I was regular. Ticked off one of my LTGs last week though, so wanted to check back in. I've been getting into Medium-Sized Wall aid climbing recently and off to the Alps next week, but I don't feel these break down to specific goals and clear progress as well as sport climbing does. I'll be back once I get the sport psyche again and I'm on the road to 8a. Hope everyone's enjoying the Summer!
And for the record: no shoulder problems for a good while, possibly down to daily yoga on work days, but it was aching a bit last week and then I pulled (or ripped) something by the shoulder blade while gastoning at the wall yesterday. Fingers crossed it clears up while I'm plodding around Mont Blanc.
MTGs (end of August):
* get fit for the alps [DONE?!]
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (6c+) (aid allowed) [DONE!]
BHAG
* F8a in 2017 (Kalymnos, obvs)
Haven't posted in a couple of months, but thanks to Dan, Si and the rest of you for the motivation when I was regular. Ticked off one of my LTGs last week though, so wanted to check back in. I've been getting into Medium-Sized Wall aid climbing recently and off to the Alps next week, but I don't feel these break down to specific goals and clear progress as well as sport climbing does. I'll be back once I get the sport psyche again and I'm on the road to 8a. Hope everyone's enjoying the Summer!
And for the record: no shoulder problems for a good while, possibly down to daily yoga on work days, but it was aching a bit last week and then I pulled (or ripped) something by the shoulder blade while gastoning at the wall yesterday. Fingers crossed it clears up while I'm plodding around Mont Blanc.
Post edited at 20:55
3
In reply to Si dH:
Good choice of route. I jotted the beta down though it doesnt mean too much now but maybe of help:
1. RH break LH sidehold LF square cut hold RF pod in break drop knee (L.ARM LOW HALF LOCK) RH pocket (fore and index finger mainly) LH higher sidepull RF in along break LF up- Rock on to left foot hold (R.ARM 90 deg LOCKING) LH tit gripping hard (R.ARM 90 deg LOCKING again ) LH again gripping hard to turn sloper to full crimp with thumb RF up to edge RH up to tit then (L.ARM FULLISH LOCK) slight push off LF crux reach for flake with RH LF thru to blackish foothold RF in pocket LH higher incut edge above adjust RH to use thumb CLIP
2. LF on polished lump LH to slot by bolt RF on tit (L.ARM FULL LOCK) RF off RH to clamshell LF on tiered ledge RF toe/heel high on flake (R.ARM FULL LOCK) LH with +ve lurch for scooped edge just below break LF off RH for better greasy slot LF into left of 3 black holds RF to middle one LF aggressive toe/heel in break CLIP
3. RF up slightly and braced perpendicularly Roll/body shoulder (R.ARM FULL LOCK) LH +ve lurch to slot RF up on large hold by clamshell RH up to intermediate undercut pinch (work LH in) (L.ARM LOCK) RH snatch to gaston final flake RF in break LF up and braced against notch in bulge (R.ARM PUSHING HARD) LH +ve lurch/snatch up to edge LF down to break CLIP belay
It is really important to be at one with your inner grunt on the crux. For Stone this meant barking like a small dog, disconcertingly.
> S: Second session on Free Monster. Pretty good, I have now got sequences I'm pretty happy with for all the moves, and have done 3 good links:
> - from ground to mid-crux (about half height)
> - from a couple of moves below the crux where it starts getting properly steep, to a couple of moves from the top
> - from immediately post-crux to the top
> I think the crux is harder than that on Arch Enemies (so probably about Ft 6C/+ as a sequence), but is lower down. After that you've mostly just got to keep going on good holds and have decent footwork. The problems are (a) there is a hard move on the initial starting wall which is very droppable - I only get it 50% of the time, (b) I need to hit all the holds just right to do the crux so again it's only about 50%, (c) there's a lot of physical climbing left above that so I'm pretty tired after 3 goes up the route.
Good choice of route. I jotted the beta down though it doesnt mean too much now but maybe of help:
1. RH break LH sidehold LF square cut hold RF pod in break drop knee (L.ARM LOW HALF LOCK) RH pocket (fore and index finger mainly) LH higher sidepull RF in along break LF up- Rock on to left foot hold (R.ARM 90 deg LOCKING) LH tit gripping hard (R.ARM 90 deg LOCKING again ) LH again gripping hard to turn sloper to full crimp with thumb RF up to edge RH up to tit then (L.ARM FULLISH LOCK) slight push off LF crux reach for flake with RH LF thru to blackish foothold RF in pocket LH higher incut edge above adjust RH to use thumb CLIP
2. LF on polished lump LH to slot by bolt RF on tit (L.ARM FULL LOCK) RF off RH to clamshell LF on tiered ledge RF toe/heel high on flake (R.ARM FULL LOCK) LH with +ve lurch for scooped edge just below break LF off RH for better greasy slot LF into left of 3 black holds RF to middle one LF aggressive toe/heel in break CLIP
3. RF up slightly and braced perpendicularly Roll/body shoulder (R.ARM FULL LOCK) LH +ve lurch to slot RF up on large hold by clamshell RH up to intermediate undercut pinch (work LH in) (L.ARM LOCK) RH snatch to gaston final flake RF in break LF up and braced against notch in bulge (R.ARM PUSHING HARD) LH +ve lurch/snatch up to edge LF down to break CLIP belay
It is really important to be at one with your inner grunt on the crux. For Stone this meant barking like a small dog, disconcertingly.
1
In reply to ukb shark:
Cheers Simon. My beta for the crux is identical to yours; higher it's different but I'm ok with that anyway. One thing I'd missed though is the opportunity to use a
Lh hold you mention immediately post crux, to adjust my rh on the big flake and bring the thumb in to play. That clip is quite draining so that's good knowledge!
Stone was there today but said nothing about barking like a small dog
Cheers Simon. My beta for the crux is identical to yours; higher it's different but I'm ok with that anyway. One thing I'd missed though is the opportunity to use a
Lh hold you mention immediately post crux, to adjust my rh on the big flake and bring the thumb in to play. That clip is quite draining so that's good knowledge!
Stone was there today but said nothing about barking like a small dog
In reply to Dandan:
Back from family holidays to Cornwall, so last week was mostly just running around with kids and body-boarding but I did manage to wangle a family trip to Helman Tor where I managed to udge my way precariously up a couple of the easiest problems at the crag. A great spot this - especially when you've spent all morning on a packed steam train with the loathsome waste of oxygen across whining on about how rude the (volunteer) staff are.
The week before that disappeared in a blur of packing/work, the only notable event being getting an opinion on my leg from the Osteo who has given me various exercises and hopes to get me running on it again in a couple of weeks (!).
Weight 73.5 (gain of a kilo on last week). Two weeks of not much exercise and a week of holiday diet showing there! Hopefully will report better progress next week.
Back from family holidays to Cornwall, so last week was mostly just running around with kids and body-boarding but I did manage to wangle a family trip to Helman Tor where I managed to udge my way precariously up a couple of the easiest problems at the crag. A great spot this - especially when you've spent all morning on a packed steam train with the loathsome waste of oxygen across whining on about how rude the (volunteer) staff are.
The week before that disappeared in a blur of packing/work, the only notable event being getting an opinion on my leg from the Osteo who has given me various exercises and hopes to get me running on it again in a couple of weeks (!).
Weight 73.5 (gain of a kilo on last week). Two weeks of not much exercise and a week of holiday diet showing there! Hopefully will report better progress next week.
In reply to Si dH:
Hi all
STG - keep ticking over the next few weeks while busy at work. Stay in shape till Kalymnos start of October.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 5x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b
BHAG = 8a by 40
Weds - 2 sets of TRX rings
Thurs - bouldering at WW, ticked off last couple of the V2-V3 and almost did a couple of V4.
Fri - routes at WW. Should have flashed (i.e. I fell off) a 7a and a 6c+. Feeling a bit knackered and low on motivation
Sun - bouldering at Parsons Green. Did a load of problems in the V3-V5 range. I think the difference from Thursday was the location rather than me being stronger!
Quiet week climbing wise as a busy week work wise, 1 of my 3 work projects completed at least. Off to Indonesia for 10 days on Friday which will be great but no climbing, will try and do some sit ups or something to keep ticking over.
Hi all
STG - keep ticking over the next few weeks while busy at work. Stay in shape till Kalymnos start of October.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 5x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b
BHAG = 8a by 40
Weds - 2 sets of TRX rings
Thurs - bouldering at WW, ticked off last couple of the V2-V3 and almost did a couple of V4.
Fri - routes at WW. Should have flashed (i.e. I fell off) a 7a and a 6c+. Feeling a bit knackered and low on motivation
Sun - bouldering at Parsons Green. Did a load of problems in the V3-V5 range. I think the difference from Thursday was the location rather than me being stronger!
Quiet week climbing wise as a busy week work wise, 1 of my 3 work projects completed at least. Off to Indonesia for 10 days on Friday which will be great but no climbing, will try and do some sit ups or something to keep ticking over.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan. I think the purpose of the 7b was to force me to fall off, and it was quite effective at that, but that's ok! Scaredyness was back to fairly disastrous levels this week. I managed to get it under control ish at familiar Brean but was pretty crippled by it on a visit to Kilnsey.
Mon Nothing.
Tue Running, 6.1km in 31:44.
Wed Climbing at Brean, got Bikini Atoll. Glad to do so but not entirely sure this route was worth the abuse to my RH middle finger, between the sharp pocket and the shiny little crimp. There's better stuff at Brean.
Thu Nothing, travel north for family visit.
Fri Went to my mum's yoga class with her. Quite a bit less brutal than the classes I'm used to, but it's ages since I've done any yoga at all so it probably felt just as hard.
Sat Running, 8.7km in 48:48. Then 6mile-ish walk around some Wharfedale countryside.
Sun Climbing at Kilnsey. Impressive place, I'd definitely like to go back if I'm ever actually up to the climbing there. Got scared to bits on the first half of a sparsely-bolted, awkward-feeling 6c and then mucked around on the start of a steep 7a+ that was a lot more fun. Didn't go any higher because scared. Thanks local(ish) people for showing us around! Very friendly crowd at the crag.
Goals:
Short term (Aug)
Medium term (Aug, Sep, Oct)
Maybe someday
Thanks Dandan. I think the purpose of the 7b was to force me to fall off, and it was quite effective at that, but that's ok! Scaredyness was back to fairly disastrous levels this week. I managed to get it under control ish at familiar Brean but was pretty crippled by it on a visit to Kilnsey.
Mon Nothing.
Tue Running, 6.1km in 31:44.
Wed Climbing at Brean, got Bikini Atoll. Glad to do so but not entirely sure this route was worth the abuse to my RH middle finger, between the sharp pocket and the shiny little crimp. There's better stuff at Brean.
Thu Nothing, travel north for family visit.
Fri Went to my mum's yoga class with her. Quite a bit less brutal than the classes I'm used to, but it's ages since I've done any yoga at all so it probably felt just as hard.
Sat Running, 8.7km in 48:48. Then 6mile-ish walk around some Wharfedale countryside.
Sun Climbing at Kilnsey. Impressive place, I'd definitely like to go back if I'm ever actually up to the climbing there. Got scared to bits on the first half of a sparsely-bolted, awkward-feeling 6c and then mucked around on the start of a steep 7a+ that was a lot more fun. Didn't go any higher because scared. Thanks local(ish) people for showing us around! Very friendly crowd at the crag.
Goals:
Short term (Aug)
- work on fear
- felt like two steps backwards after one forwards last week try harder?
- work on Rustler (6c) some more
- didn't get to Cheddar for this
- finish Bikini Atoll
- yes, managed this!
Medium term (Aug, Sep, Oct)
- maintain weight in 56-58kg range
- 59.kg, down 0.1
- go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
- could have been better at Kilnsey
Maybe someday
- redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
- redpoint another something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS???
In reply to Si dH:
It's a big day out. It's a good steep 90-120min walk-in straight up the hill to get there - steep slopes, poor paths, risk of rocks from goats/parties above, all that. Then the climbing is starting from an exposed position, it's runout and its fairly intricate and mentally taxing - quite footsy and hard to read. Then of course once you've dealt with all that and abseiled back down again you have to reverse the walk-in to get back to the car!
It's a good crossover for me between enjoying getting out in the mountains and enjoying technical rock climbing - I've realised I'll never have the time to put into becoming good at "proper" alpinism (mixed ground, snowy ridges, etc) these days and this sort of thing is probably the best all round compromise
It's a big day out. It's a good steep 90-120min walk-in straight up the hill to get there - steep slopes, poor paths, risk of rocks from goats/parties above, all that. Then the climbing is starting from an exposed position, it's runout and its fairly intricate and mentally taxing - quite footsy and hard to read. Then of course once you've dealt with all that and abseiled back down again you have to reverse the walk-in to get back to the car!
It's a good crossover for me between enjoying getting out in the mountains and enjoying technical rock climbing - I've realised I'll never have the time to put into becoming good at "proper" alpinism (mixed ground, snowy ridges, etc) these days and this sort of thing is probably the best all round compromise
In reply to Dandan:
STG (end of August)
Re-establish fitness habits; get back climbing, running, biking and some antagonistics/core work
Focus on trad outdoors
Have a fun long bank holiday weekend at Pembroke - orange spot tick list printed out!
MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule
LTG (2017 and beyond)
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again
BHAG
Big wall solo
Last week was
Mon Bike to work and back, 1h+ each way 35 miles total
Tue Climbing at Almscliff, easy solo circuit cut short by rain
Wed Lunchtime run, 35 mins road - much faster than the same loop last week plus bouldering at Depot. Warmed up then did the first 20 competition problems and a couple of reds.
Thu Tried a 30 min skifit program. Walked up the Chevin in the evening.
Fri Morning run up the Chevin steps, 35 min trails
Sat Driving round the Dales looking at wet rock
Sun Climbing at Pot Scar, including a couple of VS
Lessons learnt: I am a long way off previous benchmarks and need to stretch more
STG (end of August)
Re-establish fitness habits; get back climbing, running, biking and some antagonistics/core work
Focus on trad outdoors
Have a fun long bank holiday weekend at Pembroke - orange spot tick list printed out!
MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule
LTG (2017 and beyond)
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again
BHAG
Big wall solo
Last week was
Mon Bike to work and back, 1h+ each way 35 miles total
Tue Climbing at Almscliff, easy solo circuit cut short by rain
Wed Lunchtime run, 35 mins road - much faster than the same loop last week plus bouldering at Depot. Warmed up then did the first 20 competition problems and a couple of reds.
Thu Tried a 30 min skifit program. Walked up the Chevin in the evening.
Fri Morning run up the Chevin steps, 35 min trails
Sat Driving round the Dales looking at wet rock
Sun Climbing at Pot Scar, including a couple of VS
Lessons learnt: I am a long way off previous benchmarks and need to stretch more
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the stats Dan! I think it makes sense, given the amount/type of climbing I've done since last summer, though I wouldn't say I went into it with expectations. It's funny, this week I was falling off those moves again having figured out the rest! Looking forward to hearing about your Kaly trip.
A good week this week. I was focussed on the running, but managed to get a respectable amount of climbing in and (most importantly) didn't get injured!
M - Long run, just over 21km. Lovely route along the towpath.
T - Hotwells traverse. First time there, about an hour on and off. I expect it's good for me.
W - 13km run before lunch. Evening at Brean. Back on PoB, got the 'knack' for the Bullworker crux again, it's starting to come together.
T - 11km morning run.
F - Rest.
S - 8km morning run. 13km walk in the afternoon.
S - Kilnsey, met Ally Smith and The Fox. Attempts on Comedy (7c). Didn't get it, despite plenty of beta, but I know that 7c in a day would be ambitious (never done it before), especially on a new crag. It was worth a try!
STG
Trad: More E4, another E5? I have this weekend pencilled in for trad, maybe N Cornwall?
Sport: progress on one of the projects. Prisoner of Bullworker (7c+) coming together, but tides not so good for Brean evenings this week. Over to Cheddar!
Running: over 100km in August, including 1 week with 50km. Tick on the 50km week (54). Well on track for the 100, gives me some space for shorter, more intense runs.
MTG
Sub-90 in Bristol half in September
A tick of Right-Hand Man (8a) or Prisoner of Bullworker (7c+) could be on the cards.
LTG
Snowdonia marathon 2017
All the Avon Gorge routes in the West Country Climbs Rockfax.
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
Black Bean
> Nick Russell - It’s great when you re-visit a route and you feel a lot stronger, were you surprised or was it expected due to your training/climbing since last year?
Thanks for the stats Dan! I think it makes sense, given the amount/type of climbing I've done since last summer, though I wouldn't say I went into it with expectations. It's funny, this week I was falling off those moves again having figured out the rest! Looking forward to hearing about your Kaly trip.
A good week this week. I was focussed on the running, but managed to get a respectable amount of climbing in and (most importantly) didn't get injured!
M - Long run, just over 21km. Lovely route along the towpath.
T - Hotwells traverse. First time there, about an hour on and off. I expect it's good for me.
W - 13km run before lunch. Evening at Brean. Back on PoB, got the 'knack' for the Bullworker crux again, it's starting to come together.
T - 11km morning run.
F - Rest.
S - 8km morning run. 13km walk in the afternoon.
S - Kilnsey, met Ally Smith and The Fox. Attempts on Comedy (7c). Didn't get it, despite plenty of beta, but I know that 7c in a day would be ambitious (never done it before), especially on a new crag. It was worth a try!
STG
MTG
LTG
BHAG
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, so, Kalymnos.
First off, it was a fantastic holiday, we had a really nice, chilled out time and did a lot of more traditional summer holiday things like spending time on the beach and snorkelling, stuff like that.
The conditions however weren't ideal for climbing hard, it was pretty warm, which was expected, but it was also unusually humid, making a lot of the rock really sweaty. The humidity was really energy sapping too, even in the shade we were sweating almost all the time.
My tapering for the holiday didn't really go to plan either, I pushed the DIY really hard the weekend before we left, two full days of foundation digging was way more effort than I should have done in a taper week.
Ok I think that's enough excuses...
M: Indoor boulder; Short, taper style session
T: Nothing
W: Travel to Kalymnos
T: 6am start, straight to Spartacus. Warmed up on 6's then onsighted Kerveros (7a). I should have known something was up because it was a serious fight, felt really hard, but undeterred, I moved on to the aim for the holiday, Daniboy (8a). I honestly felt confident for a decent flash attempt in the run up to the holiday, even with a slightly iffy finger I felt like it could go well, I'd watched lots of videos, it even had the draws in!
Well, I was very wrong. I didn't even get close to a flash, I didn't even get to the to,p but I definitely wasn't on form, I could tell the holds I was on should have been fine to hold and yet I was really struggling on them, I think a combination of the heat, humidity and trying it the day after a day of travelling was a bad idea. The flipping massive bright red hornets sitting on the holds didn't help either, turns out they are quite sedate and aren't really a bother but I wasn't going to start waving them off halfway up a route, so I spent a few moments hanging around for longer than I intended waiting for them to get off the holds.
F: Kalydna; After yesterday's abject failure, I had to re-assess, I needed to accept that I wasn't going to get any big ticks so I should just enjoy the climbing. We were at Kalydna for Mrs Dandan to have another go at Nickel (7a+) but I think she felt the same as me and realised it probably wasn't a good time to push her grade. I onsighted Ixion (7a) and Sickle (7a+), both very good.
We went to a little cove in the late afternoon and I snorkelled for the first time, where has this been all my life, it's fantastic! Brings a whole new dimension to the sea for me, as a non-confident swimmer it makes the sea a lot more accessible.
S: Iliana; I had a go at Tufa King Pumped (7b+), blew the flash but felt it would go first redpoint, but I disturbed a massive bat in the top crack and had to back off the route! The tick wasn't worth getting rabies for...
S: Arginonta Valley; This was going to be a rest day but due to most of the climbing being relatively low difficulty, we decided to crack on. AV is a new crag that's great for summer afternoons, it's the only place we found with a decent breeze! It's only easy stuff but good quality so I got 8 ticks in the 6a-6b+ range.
M:Grotta/Panorama; Onsighted the amazing Lulu in the Sky (7b), although it's never 7b, 7a+ in the guide. Also onsighted Steps Ahead (7a+) and got Aphrodite (7a+) second go, it's a one-move wonder which I completed in appalling, snatchy style, but hey, I got up it.
I was waiting for DNA but some big group had put a rope on it, tied it off and wandered off to other routes, not particularly good etiquette if you ask me.
Then watched a Slovakian lady strip one of the full-height 7c+ routes in the cave, then use the chains for a massive ropeswing! I think it was a reward for her belayer who had been holding her rope for a good hour on the redpoint.
T: Arginonta Valley; Another mileage day, 7 ticks in the 6's and one cheeky 7a, Naughty Monkey Extension (7a) which was a cool little gym rat route, totally out of character with the other routes here.
W: Travel home
T-S: DIY-tastic.
It was a great holiday, more relaxing than most climbing holidays, despite climbing for 6 days in a row. We would generally be at the crag by 7.30 and finished by lunch so it felt like you had almost a whole day to relax after climbing, it worked really well. Finger fared ok, it's now no better or worse than before we went, so i'll try and heal that up now. Elbows were great, no issues at all.
I got something like 34 ticks (7 at 7a or above) which is great mileage, it makes this year my second highest for ticks and it's only August!
I've got my re-scheduled Lattice assessment on Wednesday, looking forward to that, aside from that I'm just going to do easy Aero climbing sessions for a week or two before I get back into a short training cycle for Margalef in October, its only 8 weeks away now.
Thanks me, so, Kalymnos.
First off, it was a fantastic holiday, we had a really nice, chilled out time and did a lot of more traditional summer holiday things like spending time on the beach and snorkelling, stuff like that.
The conditions however weren't ideal for climbing hard, it was pretty warm, which was expected, but it was also unusually humid, making a lot of the rock really sweaty. The humidity was really energy sapping too, even in the shade we were sweating almost all the time.
My tapering for the holiday didn't really go to plan either, I pushed the DIY really hard the weekend before we left, two full days of foundation digging was way more effort than I should have done in a taper week.
Ok I think that's enough excuses...
M: Indoor boulder; Short, taper style session
T: Nothing
W: Travel to Kalymnos
T: 6am start, straight to Spartacus. Warmed up on 6's then onsighted Kerveros (7a). I should have known something was up because it was a serious fight, felt really hard, but undeterred, I moved on to the aim for the holiday, Daniboy (8a). I honestly felt confident for a decent flash attempt in the run up to the holiday, even with a slightly iffy finger I felt like it could go well, I'd watched lots of videos, it even had the draws in!
Well, I was very wrong. I didn't even get close to a flash, I didn't even get to the to,p but I definitely wasn't on form, I could tell the holds I was on should have been fine to hold and yet I was really struggling on them, I think a combination of the heat, humidity and trying it the day after a day of travelling was a bad idea. The flipping massive bright red hornets sitting on the holds didn't help either, turns out they are quite sedate and aren't really a bother but I wasn't going to start waving them off halfway up a route, so I spent a few moments hanging around for longer than I intended waiting for them to get off the holds.
F: Kalydna; After yesterday's abject failure, I had to re-assess, I needed to accept that I wasn't going to get any big ticks so I should just enjoy the climbing. We were at Kalydna for Mrs Dandan to have another go at Nickel (7a+) but I think she felt the same as me and realised it probably wasn't a good time to push her grade. I onsighted Ixion (7a) and Sickle (7a+), both very good.
We went to a little cove in the late afternoon and I snorkelled for the first time, where has this been all my life, it's fantastic! Brings a whole new dimension to the sea for me, as a non-confident swimmer it makes the sea a lot more accessible.
S: Iliana; I had a go at Tufa King Pumped (7b+), blew the flash but felt it would go first redpoint, but I disturbed a massive bat in the top crack and had to back off the route! The tick wasn't worth getting rabies for...
S: Arginonta Valley; This was going to be a rest day but due to most of the climbing being relatively low difficulty, we decided to crack on. AV is a new crag that's great for summer afternoons, it's the only place we found with a decent breeze! It's only easy stuff but good quality so I got 8 ticks in the 6a-6b+ range.
M:Grotta/Panorama; Onsighted the amazing Lulu in the Sky (7b), although it's never 7b, 7a+ in the guide. Also onsighted Steps Ahead (7a+) and got Aphrodite (7a+) second go, it's a one-move wonder which I completed in appalling, snatchy style, but hey, I got up it.
I was waiting for DNA but some big group had put a rope on it, tied it off and wandered off to other routes, not particularly good etiquette if you ask me.
Then watched a Slovakian lady strip one of the full-height 7c+ routes in the cave, then use the chains for a massive ropeswing! I think it was a reward for her belayer who had been holding her rope for a good hour on the redpoint.
T: Arginonta Valley; Another mileage day, 7 ticks in the 6's and one cheeky 7a, Naughty Monkey Extension (7a) which was a cool little gym rat route, totally out of character with the other routes here.
W: Travel home
T-S: DIY-tastic.
It was a great holiday, more relaxing than most climbing holidays, despite climbing for 6 days in a row. We would generally be at the crag by 7.30 and finished by lunch so it felt like you had almost a whole day to relax after climbing, it worked really well. Finger fared ok, it's now no better or worse than before we went, so i'll try and heal that up now. Elbows were great, no issues at all.
I got something like 34 ticks (7 at 7a or above) which is great mileage, it makes this year my second highest for ticks and it's only August!
I've got my re-scheduled Lattice assessment on Wednesday, looking forward to that, aside from that I'm just going to do easy Aero climbing sessions for a week or two before I get back into a short training cycle for Margalef in October, its only 8 weeks away now.
2
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan - Kalymnos sounds like a good holiday in August, but not like a "trip" if that makes sense?
Week 33:
M - Pretty knackered – watched Olympics and stretched
T - Good max hang session; improvements in all grips, including PBs for some of the rehab’d finger combos. Ran out of time to do any aero-cap.
W - Gorge after work. Good connies. Repeated Devil’s Haircut and worked all the moves on the headwall extension. Has a funky heel to take you into the GC ext and should be about 8a+ when done. Heading back this week.
T - Rest. Mild rehab and mobility stuff.
F - Very damp CyL – shouldn’t have bothered. Middle Third 2nd go – good fight as had to miss a couple of holds and the rest in the middle of Mr Skin. Immediately went over and did Lowlife with damp holds to replicate the feel of doing it at the end of TOTG. 45min of moss raking too as cross-training.
S - 10mile walk on Sandstone Trail. First walk in prep of 5 days trekking in Jordan in early November.
S - Kilnsey with The Fox, Emily and Nick. 6c warm-up. 7a+ dog and cleaning effort on break-line project. Much loose rock removed – 50kg? (1x2’ flake, 3-4” deep). Comedy, 7c retro-flash 7a+ RP, and extra/final bolt in. Now need to do some more cleaning and work all the moves. Think I need a 100m rope!
Q3 functional goals:
- Benchmark finger strength % - Done. Now aiming for 2% point increase
- Benchmark an-cap – Done. Now aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
- Aim to increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions. (The reality might be some way off as all core training is cancelled until back is better)
August route goals:
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Clean and do Gorge projects:
o Link-up heaven; stamina f8a+/b?
o Devil’s Haircut extension; bouldery f8a+? Funky kneebar rest by the belay of DH.
- Bolt, clean and try rest of Kilnsey project – probably a 2017 RP aim now?
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
Thanks Dan - Kalymnos sounds like a good holiday in August, but not like a "trip" if that makes sense?
Week 33:
M - Pretty knackered – watched Olympics and stretched
T - Good max hang session; improvements in all grips, including PBs for some of the rehab’d finger combos. Ran out of time to do any aero-cap.
W - Gorge after work. Good connies. Repeated Devil’s Haircut and worked all the moves on the headwall extension. Has a funky heel to take you into the GC ext and should be about 8a+ when done. Heading back this week.
T - Rest. Mild rehab and mobility stuff.
F - Very damp CyL – shouldn’t have bothered. Middle Third 2nd go – good fight as had to miss a couple of holds and the rest in the middle of Mr Skin. Immediately went over and did Lowlife with damp holds to replicate the feel of doing it at the end of TOTG. 45min of moss raking too as cross-training.
S - 10mile walk on Sandstone Trail. First walk in prep of 5 days trekking in Jordan in early November.
S - Kilnsey with The Fox, Emily and Nick. 6c warm-up. 7a+ dog and cleaning effort on break-line project. Much loose rock removed – 50kg? (1x2’ flake, 3-4” deep). Comedy, 7c retro-flash 7a+ RP, and extra/final bolt in. Now need to do some more cleaning and work all the moves. Think I need a 100m rope!
Q3 functional goals:
- Benchmark finger strength % - Done. Now aiming for 2% point increase
- Benchmark an-cap – Done. Now aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
- Aim to increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions. (The reality might be some way off as all core training is cancelled until back is better)
August route goals:
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Clean and do Gorge projects:
o Link-up heaven; stamina f8a+/b?
o Devil’s Haircut extension; bouldery f8a+? Funky kneebar rest by the belay of DH.
- Bolt, clean and try rest of Kilnsey project – probably a 2017 RP aim now?
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
In reply to Ally Smith:
Absolutely, it was definitely a holiday with some climbing rather than a 'climbing holiday', once I accepted that I wasn't going to tick any big numbers I thoroughly enjoyed it.
> Thanks Dan - Kalymnos sounds like a good holiday in August, but not like a "trip" if that makes sense?
Absolutely, it was definitely a holiday with some climbing rather than a 'climbing holiday', once I accepted that I wasn't going to tick any big numbers I thoroughly enjoyed it.
In reply to AJM:
Yer I totally get that desire and feeling of a lack of time to do any proper alpine stuff. I've had lots of similar feelings myself although to date dealt with it by taking Ruth walking / easy mountaineering in the alps rather than by rock climbing there. Am definitely keen to try the Dolomites one day though, and maybe more big Swiss rock.
> It's a good crossover for me between enjoying getting out in the mountains and enjoying technical rock climbing - I've realised I'll never have the time to put into becoming good at "proper" alpinism (mixed ground, snowy ridges, etc) these days and this sort of thing is probably the best all round compromise
Yer I totally get that desire and feeling of a lack of time to do any proper alpine stuff. I've had lots of similar feelings myself although to date dealt with it by taking Ruth walking / easy mountaineering in the alps rather than by rock climbing there. Am definitely keen to try the Dolomites one day though, and maybe more big Swiss rock.
Post edited at 19:34
In reply to Dandan:
The number of 7a ish onsights you seem to have done is still pretty impressive, especially given how hot it must have been. I don't think you should be too disappointed with the performance regardless of the type of holiday! Plus, Kaly is an awesome place to just chill out
The number of 7a ish onsights you seem to have done is still pretty impressive, especially given how hot it must have been. I don't think you should be too disappointed with the performance regardless of the type of holiday! Plus, Kaly is an awesome place to just chill out
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan
It is slowly coming down so im keeping positive
This weeks goals
Drop to 82kg - tick
Next weeks goals
Drop to 81kg
Run at least twice
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp
Climb at least twice
MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b)
Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) Scavenger (VS 4c)The Druid (VS 4c) by end of Sept
LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter
BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Monday - 3 hour walk in the becons
Tuesday - Rest.
Wednesday - 3 hour walk in the becons.
Thursday - Climbed Ambler (S 4a) and Etna (HS 4a) felt a bit tough for 4a
Friday - rest
Saturday - 2 hour walk around he becons
Sunday - Drove up to north wales from south wales to do Grooved Arête (HVD 4a) and then drove home again. Was one hell of a long day but well worth it .
Happy Training
Lee
Thanks Dandan
It is slowly coming down so im keeping positive
This weeks goals
Drop to 82kg - tick
Next weeks goals
Drop to 81kg
Run at least twice
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp
Climb at least twice
MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b)
Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) Scavenger (VS 4c)The Druid (VS 4c) by end of Sept
LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter
BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Monday - 3 hour walk in the becons
Tuesday - Rest.
Wednesday - 3 hour walk in the becons.
Thursday - Climbed Ambler (S 4a) and Etna (HS 4a) felt a bit tough for 4a
Friday - rest
Saturday - 2 hour walk around he becons
Sunday - Drove up to north wales from south wales to do Grooved Arête (HVD 4a) and then drove home again. Was one hell of a long day but well worth it .
Happy Training
Lee
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Huge congrats on the E5!
Where's the Hotwells Traverse? I thought I had most of the bouldering spots round here worked out. Is it an option for a punter like me?
Huge congrats on the E5!
Where's the Hotwells Traverse? I thought I had most of the bouldering spots round here worked out. Is it an option for a punter like me?
In reply to Bobling:
Thanks
Hotwells traverse is this bit of wall
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.450934,-2.6252197,3a,75y,61.68h,93.81t/da...
between the two signposts.
More 'buildering' than bouldering. It's an option for anyone: although the hardest sections are hard (and crimpy evil), there's easier sections and it's step on/step off the whole way along.
Thanks
Hotwells traverse is this bit of wall
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.450934,-2.6252197,3a,75y,61.68h,93.81t/da...
between the two signposts.
More 'buildering' than bouldering. It's an option for anyone: although the hardest sections are hard (and crimpy evil), there's easier sections and it's step on/step off the whole way along.
In reply to Dandan:
I'm thinking some easy headpointing might be in order, I've never headpointed anything so there must be some things I'll never on-sight which are physically within my grasp....
This week I've kept to the rehab plan pretty well but didn't return to the wall until today, realised I can probably do some of the circuits with a straight left arm, that said I failed to do both the 7a and 7a+ but did manage to do enough to get pumped so maybe I can arrest the decline.
Went for my first fell 'run' for nearly two years (stopped because of injury, natch). Mostly fast walking in the Pentlands and hobbled back to the car after two hours, the good news was my hip held up although I don't think it had many Kms left in it, the bad news is I've got DOMs like ever before.
This week I'm going to try and do circuits at the Depot three days and will consider bending my arm.
> Tyler - Sorry to hear there is no progress on the shoulder, been there. Maybe a few weeks of easy trad to let it recover?
I'm thinking some easy headpointing might be in order, I've never headpointed anything so there must be some things I'll never on-sight which are physically within my grasp....
This week I've kept to the rehab plan pretty well but didn't return to the wall until today, realised I can probably do some of the circuits with a straight left arm, that said I failed to do both the 7a and 7a+ but did manage to do enough to get pumped so maybe I can arrest the decline.
Went for my first fell 'run' for nearly two years (stopped because of injury, natch). Mostly fast walking in the Pentlands and hobbled back to the car after two hours, the good news was my hip held up although I don't think it had many Kms left in it, the bad news is I've got DOMs like ever before.
This week I'm going to try and do circuits at the Depot three days and will consider bending my arm.
2
In reply to Si dH:
Yeah I still have Dolomites stuff on my list (and endless amounts in switzerland and a load of Piola style rock round Cham etc too), but I suspect that the next year or two I'll actually be drifting closer to the walking option to get my mountain fix in
Edit: Duncan has been enthusing about the Picos as well so that's on the list as well
> Yer I totally get that desire and feeling of a lack of time to do any proper alpine stuff. I've had lots of similar feelings myself although to date dealt with it by taking Ruth walking / easy mountaineering in the alps rather than by rock climbing there. Am definitely keen to try the Dolomites one day though, and maybe more big Swiss rock.
Yeah I still have Dolomites stuff on my list (and endless amounts in switzerland and a load of Piola style rock round Cham etc too), but I suspect that the next year or two I'll actually be drifting closer to the walking option to get my mountain fix in
Edit: Duncan has been enthusing about the Picos as well so that's on the list as well
Post edited at 07:11
1
In reply to Dandan:
Hello!
Sadly not :/
7 day average weight: 79.7kg, body fat 18.6%.
The rise since I got back from Peru has been inexorable.
m - 10k cycling
t - 10k cycling
w - 10k cycling, YVAA Grand Prix 6 mile off road race, 47:41. Pretty good for me, if the race had been a bit longer I'd have got a 10k PB. I should probably enter a 10k road race before I put too much weight back on.
t - rest
f - idleness
s - Weekend at the in-law's
s - Weekend at the in-law's
STG - parkrun PB at Bradford or Halifax.
MTG - Complete the Yorkshireman Marathon (September) in 5hr30min.
LTG - Climb a big mountain next year.
> Morning all!
Hello!
> Hokkyokusei - Have you managed to rein in your eating this week?!
Sadly not :/
7 day average weight: 79.7kg, body fat 18.6%.
The rise since I got back from Peru has been inexorable.
m - 10k cycling
t - 10k cycling
w - 10k cycling, YVAA Grand Prix 6 mile off road race, 47:41. Pretty good for me, if the race had been a bit longer I'd have got a 10k PB. I should probably enter a 10k road race before I put too much weight back on.
t - rest
f - idleness
s - Weekend at the in-law's
s - Weekend at the in-law's
STG - parkrun PB at Bradford or Halifax.
MTG - Complete the Yorkshireman Marathon (September) in 5hr30min.
LTG - Climb a big mountain next year.
In reply to Dandan:
Can't exactly remember what I did on which day, it involved several walks of several miles, a fingerboard session, and a trip to woodcroft quarry. Woodcroft was really cold from the wind which was not anticipated. Got Saudi Air (6b) 2nd go after working out the correct sequence for short people, not what someone had tried to help with. Got too cold to have a proper go on Rippled and Toned.
I'll make sure that any time I go out this week I bring lots of layers, and plenty of snacks and water to keep my energy up. And make sure to eat, drink, layer up before I think I need to.
I'm now working at TCA and UCR so hopefully I might be able to get some climbing in then!
Can't exactly remember what I did on which day, it involved several walks of several miles, a fingerboard session, and a trip to woodcroft quarry. Woodcroft was really cold from the wind which was not anticipated. Got Saudi Air (6b) 2nd go after working out the correct sequence for short people, not what someone had tried to help with. Got too cold to have a proper go on Rippled and Toned.
I'll make sure that any time I go out this week I bring lots of layers, and plenty of snacks and water to keep my energy up. And make sure to eat, drink, layer up before I think I need to.
I'm now working at TCA and UCR so hopefully I might be able to get some climbing in then!
In reply to Dandan:
M-Ended up at WCJ cornice. Managed to link Free Monster (had a play on it last year) all the way to the last bolt but was a bit dead and didn't really have the drive to hold on at the top as I hadn't worked out the top. Sliced a big flapper stripping the draws next go.
T-Nothing
W-Nothing
T-Nothing
F-10mile fell run up High Spy along to Cat Bells and back down to Grange.
S-An attempt at starting the Borrowdale Fell run (the race had been a week earlier) although my dodgey knee came on with vengeance and poor weather made us bail. Ended up being a 7ish mile slow jog/walk. Spent the afternoon in the Jacuzzi/sauna and then tried doing some research on my knee as it's been a problem for around 3 years now. Came up with that it might be caused by hamstring tendonitis, which recommended ibuprofen and taping the hamstring.
S-Taped up and doped up on ibuprofen. Wouldn't you know it? It worked! Knee (well hamstring! felt great all the way round.) We ran from Threkeld to Grasmere along the Helvellyn ridge. About 14 miles. Even managed to open up the legs in the last 400m into Grasmere. Time to get myself to the physio to find a long term solution.
M-Ended up at WCJ cornice. Managed to link Free Monster (had a play on it last year) all the way to the last bolt but was a bit dead and didn't really have the drive to hold on at the top as I hadn't worked out the top. Sliced a big flapper stripping the draws next go.
T-Nothing
W-Nothing
T-Nothing
F-10mile fell run up High Spy along to Cat Bells and back down to Grange.
S-An attempt at starting the Borrowdale Fell run (the race had been a week earlier) although my dodgey knee came on with vengeance and poor weather made us bail. Ended up being a 7ish mile slow jog/walk. Spent the afternoon in the Jacuzzi/sauna and then tried doing some research on my knee as it's been a problem for around 3 years now. Came up with that it might be caused by hamstring tendonitis, which recommended ibuprofen and taping the hamstring.
S-Taped up and doped up on ibuprofen. Wouldn't you know it? It worked! Knee (well hamstring! felt great all the way round.) We ran from Threkeld to Grasmere along the Helvellyn ridge. About 14 miles. Even managed to open up the legs in the last 400m into Grasmere. Time to get myself to the physio to find a long term solution.
Post edited at 17:39
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Sounds like a lovely trip despite the weather. I did 'proper' (not like when i was ten on family holidays) snorkelling for the first time last year in Thailand, wow! It's amazing isn't it?
Yes I've got properly stuck into The Bulge. I knew it was going to be a long term thing as I was nowhere near fit enough at the start and i'm still not. But I've got this opportunity to get an 8a before I get mad busy at uni for 3 years so i'm giving it my best shot. I'm enjoying the process more than I thought as it's the first time I've ever spent more than 3 sessions on something.
Not a bad week. Session on The Bulge has ended up with us both realising it's now at the point where we're going to actually have to try and do it. Went from crimp rail to toppish. I totally fluffed up the sequence right at the top and spent at least 30 secs dangling by my arms before dropping off. Obviously enough in the tank to do that link. Tied from flake to top but just missed the big move at the end. Lesson learned is don't have 15 practice pulls before doing the move. It tires you out. Happy enough I could do it from the flake. I've done the crux to the flake so I just need to see how far I get next go out.
Managed 2 training sessions in amongst a very busy working week. 4 12 hr + days on the bounce have meant I didn't go back yesterday as I wouldn't have been good for anything.
AnCap session was good. Completed 4 sets of 4 on the boulder problem that I failed at the end of set 3 last week. Happy days.
Had an hrs quick climb whilst at work on Sunday. Managed 6 x V1, 6 x V2-3, 6 x V3-4 and 3 of the 6 V5-6's. All given one go. The others will go i'm sure next time. Main aim was to find a problem to AnCap on and I think I have.
Train as much as I can this week is the aim and keep the healthy diet I have for the last few days.
Cheers Dan. Sounds like a lovely trip despite the weather. I did 'proper' (not like when i was ten on family holidays) snorkelling for the first time last year in Thailand, wow! It's amazing isn't it?
Yes I've got properly stuck into The Bulge. I knew it was going to be a long term thing as I was nowhere near fit enough at the start and i'm still not. But I've got this opportunity to get an 8a before I get mad busy at uni for 3 years so i'm giving it my best shot. I'm enjoying the process more than I thought as it's the first time I've ever spent more than 3 sessions on something.
Not a bad week. Session on The Bulge has ended up with us both realising it's now at the point where we're going to actually have to try and do it. Went from crimp rail to toppish. I totally fluffed up the sequence right at the top and spent at least 30 secs dangling by my arms before dropping off. Obviously enough in the tank to do that link. Tied from flake to top but just missed the big move at the end. Lesson learned is don't have 15 practice pulls before doing the move. It tires you out. Happy enough I could do it from the flake. I've done the crux to the flake so I just need to see how far I get next go out.
Managed 2 training sessions in amongst a very busy working week. 4 12 hr + days on the bounce have meant I didn't go back yesterday as I wouldn't have been good for anything.
AnCap session was good. Completed 4 sets of 4 on the boulder problem that I failed at the end of set 3 last week. Happy days.
Had an hrs quick climb whilst at work on Sunday. Managed 6 x V1, 6 x V2-3, 6 x V3-4 and 3 of the 6 V5-6's. All given one go. The others will go i'm sure next time. Main aim was to find a problem to AnCap on and I think I have.
Train as much as I can this week is the aim and keep the healthy diet I have for the last few days.
2
In reply to Dandan:
So I have made my pilgrimage to the holy land of Sheffield and prayed at the altar of the Lattice.
Should have my report by the end of the week, the results were very interesting indeed, highlighting a clear weakness that I didn't expect...
It's also good to hear that the lattice boards are rolling out around the country, and people are being trained to assess on them. There should be one down my way at The Project in Poole by the end of the year which is awesome news.
So I have made my pilgrimage to the holy land of Sheffield and prayed at the altar of the Lattice.
Should have my report by the end of the week, the results were very interesting indeed, highlighting a clear weakness that I didn't expect...
It's also good to hear that the lattice boards are rolling out around the country, and people are being trained to assess on them. There should be one down my way at The Project in Poole by the end of the year which is awesome news.
In reply to Dandan:
You can't leave us in suspense like that!
That is good news indeed! I won't get too excited until I see it in the flesh though
> Should have my report by the end of the week, the results were very interesting indeed, highlighting a clear weakness that I didn't expect...
You can't leave us in suspense like that!
> It's also good to hear that the lattice boards are rolling out around the country, and people are being trained to assess on them. There should be one down my way at The Project in Poole by the end of the year which is awesome news.
That is good news indeed! I won't get too excited until I see it in the flesh though
1
In reply to Dandan:
I'd be curious to use one but I fear the results would be so terrible that they would be used to justify a blanket down-grade of every route I have somehow dragged my decrepit, shaking carcass up. Maybe best to refrain for the greater good of everyones ticklist!
> It's also good to hear that the lattice boards are rolling out around the country, and people are being trained to assess on them. There should be one down my way at The Project in Poole by the end of the year which is awesome news.
I'd be curious to use one but I fear the results would be so terrible that they would be used to justify a blanket down-grade of every route I have somehow dragged my decrepit, shaking carcass up. Maybe best to refrain for the greater good of everyones ticklist!
3
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
No, what would happen is that the grade boundaries would change - instead of being, say, 50 moves for 7b it would be "well, moose can do it and can only do 12, best reassess what's really required"!
No, what would happen is that the grade boundaries would change - instead of being, say, 50 moves for 7b it would be "well, moose can do it and can only do 12, best reassess what's really required"!
In reply to AJM:
I can and I will.
Obviously I know roughly what the issues were but I'd like the numbers and Tom's explanation to hand before I butcher the facts and confuse everyone.
Basically I'm incredibly strong and incredibly unfit, kind of like a chain-smoking gorilla...
> You can't leave us in suspense like that!
I can and I will.
Obviously I know roughly what the issues were but I'd like the numbers and Tom's explanation to hand before I butcher the facts and confuse everyone.
Basically I'm incredibly strong and incredibly unfit, kind of like a chain-smoking gorilla...
In reply to jas128:
I have been known to hassle hms about eating & drinking at the crag - looks like it's a family trait!
I have been known to hassle hms about eating & drinking at the crag - looks like it's a family trait!
In reply to AJM:
I'm intrigued as to whether the board will be out of bounds to anyone but assessed clients...
> That is good news indeed! I won't get too excited until I see it in the flesh though
I'm intrigued as to whether the board will be out of bounds to anyone but assessed clients...
In reply to Dandan:
D'urr - like no one has tried telling you that before....
> Basically I'm incredibly strong and incredibly unfit, kind of like a chain-smoking gorilla...
D'urr - like no one has tried telling you that before....
In reply to Ally Smith:
But there's the thing, I did listen to you lot, for example from April to August I trained for Kaly and did no out-and-out strength work, it was almost entirely based around endurance.
The problem is I was focussing on power endurance when actually it's my aerobic side of things that is letting me down, it's apparently really, really below where I should be.
I think I'd assumed that 10 years of climbing just gave you the base aerobic fitness but I was very wrong! The good thing is it can be trained quite effectively, albeit in a very boring manner (volume).
> D'urr - like no one has tried telling you that before....
But there's the thing, I did listen to you lot, for example from April to August I trained for Kaly and did no out-and-out strength work, it was almost entirely based around endurance.
The problem is I was focussing on power endurance when actually it's my aerobic side of things that is letting me down, it's apparently really, really below where I should be.
I think I'd assumed that 10 years of climbing just gave you the base aerobic fitness but I was very wrong! The good thing is it can be trained quite effectively, albeit in a very boring manner (volume).
In reply to Dandan:
The fact you missed out on the aerobic base training doesn't make an over strong diagnosis a surprise or mean Ally was wrong!
> But there's the thing, I did listen to you lot, for example from April to August I trained for Kaly and did no out-and-out strength work, it was almost entirely based around endurance.
> The problem is I was focussing on power endurance when actually it's my aerobic side of things that is letting me down, it's apparently really, really below where I should be.
The fact you missed out on the aerobic base training doesn't make an over strong diagnosis a surprise or mean Ally was wrong!
Post edited at 12:20
In reply to Ally Smith:
Be interesting to see how it pans out. I can't see what making it out of bounds gains you really - the benefit is in the knowledge/data not the board itself given that you can replicate the whole thing with a foot on campus board....
Be interesting to see how it pans out. I can't see what making it out of bounds gains you really - the benefit is in the knowledge/data not the board itself given that you can replicate the whole thing with a foot on campus board....
> I'm intrigued as to whether the board will be out of bounds to anyone but assessed clients...
In reply to Dandan:
Sounds like me - the last couple of seasons, when I have been thwarted by a project, I have resorted to blocks of max-hangs on a finger-board to push me through.... regardless of my own weaknesses (power-stamina, power), or the characteristics of the route I am trying.
My shaky justification is that working my actual weaknesses is so tedious I would never keep up the effort (and it would also likely aggravate my elbow and shoulder problems more), so I am better off re-inforcing my strengths (fingery stuff) than doing nothing at all!
> I think I'd assumed that 10 years of climbing just gave you the base aerobic fitness but I was very wrong! The good thing is it can be trained quite effectively, albeit in a very boring manner (volume).
Sounds like me - the last couple of seasons, when I have been thwarted by a project, I have resorted to blocks of max-hangs on a finger-board to push me through.... regardless of my own weaknesses (power-stamina, power), or the characteristics of the route I am trying.
My shaky justification is that working my actual weaknesses is so tedious I would never keep up the effort (and it would also likely aggravate my elbow and shoulder problems more), so I am better off re-inforcing my strengths (fingery stuff) than doing nothing at all!
In reply to AJM:
Ally is definitely right, as was a lot of the advice I've had through FitClub, and I didn't miss out the aerobic base training entirely, it seems I just gave it a lot less attention than it really needed!
I think through the last 4/5 month training phase I've managed to put the balance of the energy systems way out, focussed far too much on the anaerobic side of things. I'm sure there have been times in the recent past that my aerobic fitness was better than right now, but probably still not as good as it could be. (When I ticked the indoor 8a in May/June things must have been better, I don't think I could tick that today)
Hopefully now armed with the knowledge to be able to assess myself, I can alter the balance and keep it there.
It's nice to have a clear indicator of where a problem lies, being told by Tom that my scores in some areas were 'way, way below average' was never going to be fun, but knowing precisely what I can do about it is actually really motivating
> The fact you missed out on the aerobic base training doesn't make an over strong diagnosis a surprise or mean Ally was wrong!
Ally is definitely right, as was a lot of the advice I've had through FitClub, and I didn't miss out the aerobic base training entirely, it seems I just gave it a lot less attention than it really needed!
I think through the last 4/5 month training phase I've managed to put the balance of the energy systems way out, focussed far too much on the anaerobic side of things. I'm sure there have been times in the recent past that my aerobic fitness was better than right now, but probably still not as good as it could be. (When I ticked the indoor 8a in May/June things must have been better, I don't think I could tick that today)
Hopefully now armed with the knowledge to be able to assess myself, I can alter the balance and keep it there.
It's nice to have a clear indicator of where a problem lies, being told by Tom that my scores in some areas were 'way, way below average' was never going to be fun, but knowing precisely what I can do about it is actually really motivating
In reply to Dandan:
Trad. Gets rid of the boredom factor, generally in the right spot (most trad is low intensity aerobic when compared against sport standards, even if at the time it feels desperate), does the trick nicely
> The good thing is it can be trained quite effectively, albeit in a very boring manner (volume).
Trad. Gets rid of the boredom factor, generally in the right spot (most trad is low intensity aerobic when compared against sport standards, even if at the time it feels desperate), does the trick nicely
In reply to Dandan:
It'd be dreadful to be perfectly in balance because that means there would be no quick wins, only hard work!
> It's nice to have a clear indicator of where a problem lies, being told by Tom that my scores in some areas were 'way, way below average' was never going to be fun, but knowing precisely what I can do about it is actually really motivating
It'd be dreadful to be perfectly in balance because that means there would be no quick wins, only hard work!
4
In reply to Dandan:
I have never really dabbled with any of this rigourous assessment of strengths and weaknesses. Nor ever bothered with any proper periodised training, beyond messing around indoor bouldering over winter, and blindly hoping that fitness will build naturally when the crags stop seeping in Spring.
So I am curious, have you, or anyone else partial to such exercises, found such analysis and deliberation of any concrete benefit? Any gains beyond what might reasonably have occurred through just getting out there on chosen routes, whenever you can, with maybe the odd midweek fingerboard session?
I would be interested in making more efficient use my resources, but do not really fancy paying to be told to compromise my precious weekends doing stuff that I would find relatively unfulfilling (I think I would prefer to fall off hard stuff for longer, than have sessions lapping warm-ups).
I have never really dabbled with any of this rigourous assessment of strengths and weaknesses. Nor ever bothered with any proper periodised training, beyond messing around indoor bouldering over winter, and blindly hoping that fitness will build naturally when the crags stop seeping in Spring.
So I am curious, have you, or anyone else partial to such exercises, found such analysis and deliberation of any concrete benefit? Any gains beyond what might reasonably have occurred through just getting out there on chosen routes, whenever you can, with maybe the odd midweek fingerboard session?
I would be interested in making more efficient use my resources, but do not really fancy paying to be told to compromise my precious weekends doing stuff that I would find relatively unfulfilling (I think I would prefer to fall off hard stuff for longer, than have sessions lapping warm-ups).
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
For me, I can't really give a concrete view based on real routes ticked - a finger pulley scuppered a large part of last summer and this summer has been thrown off track by house moving/improving and other things.
However, my weakness that Tom identified was a different one from that which I'd self identified so to that extent it has been valuable in helping me focus my time better, and I've also found having a plan of that detail has (over the winter at least) made me train an awful lot harder.
I don't know but I think one of the other things this sort of structure might help with is more distant projects - I've tried The Cider Soak (8a) this year (a route which I think previously I'd have been unable to progress on at the speed I did, although I recognise that's anecdotal since I've not ticked it yet) and that's 2 hours from home so actually the option to just grind it into submission isn't as available to me. Having a relatively quantitative view on what areas to work in between trips can act as a good backup to the impressions I get from actually being on the route..
EDIT: one other thing which makes it hard to assess for me is that during 2012-2013 my work was patchy so I spent large amounts of time out of work (hence a siege of The Ashes from my base in Cheltenham seemed perfectly reasonable) and I then spent most of 2014 in a van in Europe. As a result I have to keep reminding myself that actually now with a fairly involved and demanding full time job a comparison of grades/progress against the days when I was climbing 5+ days per week isn't necessarily the best comparison. It's very difficult to tell whether the training isn't working that well because I'm improving quite slowly or whether actually I need to be fairly focused in training because I'm blessed with little natural talent and far more restricted time on projects these days so need to train smarter to reach the levels which full time climbing previously afforded me.
For me, I can't really give a concrete view based on real routes ticked - a finger pulley scuppered a large part of last summer and this summer has been thrown off track by house moving/improving and other things.
However, my weakness that Tom identified was a different one from that which I'd self identified so to that extent it has been valuable in helping me focus my time better, and I've also found having a plan of that detail has (over the winter at least) made me train an awful lot harder.
I don't know but I think one of the other things this sort of structure might help with is more distant projects - I've tried The Cider Soak (8a) this year (a route which I think previously I'd have been unable to progress on at the speed I did, although I recognise that's anecdotal since I've not ticked it yet) and that's 2 hours from home so actually the option to just grind it into submission isn't as available to me. Having a relatively quantitative view on what areas to work in between trips can act as a good backup to the impressions I get from actually being on the route..
EDIT: one other thing which makes it hard to assess for me is that during 2012-2013 my work was patchy so I spent large amounts of time out of work (hence a siege of The Ashes from my base in Cheltenham seemed perfectly reasonable) and I then spent most of 2014 in a van in Europe. As a result I have to keep reminding myself that actually now with a fairly involved and demanding full time job a comparison of grades/progress against the days when I was climbing 5+ days per week isn't necessarily the best comparison. It's very difficult to tell whether the training isn't working that well because I'm improving quite slowly or whether actually I need to be fairly focused in training because I'm blessed with little natural talent and far more restricted time on projects these days so need to train smarter to reach the levels which full time climbing previously afforded me.
Post edited at 14:10
1
In reply to Dandan:
Hi Sorry that I've been absent. I've just been involved with work and travel that I haven't really had much time for climbing. Anyway, I'll be down South at the weekend. Is anyone interested in climbing (Portland or Swanage) on Saturday, Sunday or both? Cheers, Tony
Hi Sorry that I've been absent. I've just been involved with work and travel that I haven't really had much time for climbing. Anyway, I'll be down South at the weekend. Is anyone interested in climbing (Portland or Swanage) on Saturday, Sunday or both? Cheers, Tony
In reply to AJM:
No chance! Aside from my complete lack of interest in trad, most of my training is done weekday evenings which means its exclusively indoor based. I say it's boring but I can focus on the end goal to get through it, I definitely enjoy training more than the average person.
> Trad.
No chance! Aside from my complete lack of interest in trad, most of my training is done weekday evenings which means its exclusively indoor based. I say it's boring but I can focus on the end goal to get through it, I definitely enjoy training more than the average person.
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
I'm the same as AJM, I've never had a long enough, uninterrupted spell of training or climbing to make a real distinction, but you can't really deny the universal results of training for any sport.
Of course the more weekends you sacrifice to specific drills instead of trying your latest project will give you benefits, but I, like most people I guess, find a balance so I can still do what I want at certain times and fit training around it.
I personally enjoy following a set plan, it's part of the fun of climbing for me, I enjoy the training so it's not a compromise.
I'm the same as AJM, I've never had a long enough, uninterrupted spell of training or climbing to make a real distinction, but you can't really deny the universal results of training for any sport.
Of course the more weekends you sacrifice to specific drills instead of trying your latest project will give you benefits, but I, like most people I guess, find a balance so I can still do what I want at certain times and fit training around it.
I personally enjoy following a set plan, it's part of the fun of climbing for me, I enjoy the training so it's not a compromise.
In reply to TonyB:
Weather looks a bit iffy for Saturday, I'll speak to Mrs Dandan and see if Sunday might be a possibility...
> Anyway, I'll be down South at the weekend. Is anyone interested in climbing (Portland or Swanage) on Saturday, Sunday or both? Cheers, Tony
Weather looks a bit iffy for Saturday, I'll speak to Mrs Dandan and see if Sunday might be a possibility...
In reply to Dandan:
That I do not doubt, but how much of an increase in the rapidity of gains is there compared to just going to the crag? Personally, it would have to be pretty profound to outweigh the more fun option of "getting strong on the route" and just trying damn hard when the opportunity presents itself.
Aside from my annual festival of "use up holiday days before they expire", I really only climb at weekends. Using up the precious little time I have away from work, doing something that resmembles work might be a bit much of a deferred gratification. I suspect a lot of these periodised regimes are more suited to folk who are climbing 4-5 times a week, rather than people for whom climbing is their sadly too infrequent distraction from the grind of a salaried existance
> Of course the more weekends you sacrifice to specific drills instead of trying your latest project will give you benefits,
That I do not doubt, but how much of an increase in the rapidity of gains is there compared to just going to the crag? Personally, it would have to be pretty profound to outweigh the more fun option of "getting strong on the route" and just trying damn hard when the opportunity presents itself.
Aside from my annual festival of "use up holiday days before they expire", I really only climb at weekends. Using up the precious little time I have away from work, doing something that resmembles work might be a bit much of a deferred gratification. I suspect a lot of these periodised regimes are more suited to folk who are climbing 4-5 times a week, rather than people for whom climbing is their sadly too infrequent distraction from the grind of a salaried existance
In reply to TonyB:
Hoping to be out Sunday (hopefully tradding) and whilst ive got a lot to squeeze in on Saturday there's a chance I could pop to the wall or for a drink or something (although I know Poole and the project arent that near for you). Let me know.
Hoping to be out Sunday (hopefully tradding) and whilst ive got a lot to squeeze in on Saturday there's a chance I could pop to the wall or for a drink or something (although I know Poole and the project arent that near for you). Let me know.
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
My experience would be the opposite - it was fairly easy to improve by just getting on projects and is now far harder with reduced rock time which leads to a need for more structured non rock time. I don't, to be fair, sacrifice outdoor fun days to train in - the choice you're setting up in your posts isn't one I recognise myself.
> I suspect a lot of these periodised regimes are more suited to folk who are climbing 4-5 times a week, rather than people for whom climbing is their sadly too infrequent distraction from the grind of a salaried existance
My experience would be the opposite - it was fairly easy to improve by just getting on projects and is now far harder with reduced rock time which leads to a need for more structured non rock time. I don't, to be fair, sacrifice outdoor fun days to train in - the choice you're setting up in your posts isn't one I recognise myself.
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Yep - there are always going to be compromises for time on route v. specific training.
If the objective is sufficiently beyond your current standard, or you have an obvious weakness (hint) then some sacrifice to do some specific training to resolve it, will be time well spent.
Hitting the right balance to keep it all fun is going to be a very personal thing - for you - it sounds like you're unwilling/unable to do anything mid-week beyond some finger-boarding. Nothing wrong with this, but i would question a more holistic approach and looking more deeply at what might be holding you back.
Personally, I've been through the high volume training that Tom prescribes to:
- Does it fit with my current injuries and available time - no.
- Does it limit the fun you have - no - it's delayed fun - you're putting money in the bank to cash in when you tick a nemesis (How was the post Stolen Bourbon?)
- Does it work - yes
- Would it break Moose - probably...
As an aside - I really don't know how you'd do on the lattice test - you've done routes on North Buttress, so can't be that weak on steep climbing, and have OS'd 7c/+ at Chulilla, so i'd take a punt and say 45 moves with a steep decline and woefully low (sub 20%) an-cap.
Yep - there are always going to be compromises for time on route v. specific training.
If the objective is sufficiently beyond your current standard, or you have an obvious weakness (hint) then some sacrifice to do some specific training to resolve it, will be time well spent.
Hitting the right balance to keep it all fun is going to be a very personal thing - for you - it sounds like you're unwilling/unable to do anything mid-week beyond some finger-boarding. Nothing wrong with this, but i would question a more holistic approach and looking more deeply at what might be holding you back.
Personally, I've been through the high volume training that Tom prescribes to:
- Does it fit with my current injuries and available time - no.
- Does it limit the fun you have - no - it's delayed fun - you're putting money in the bank to cash in when you tick a nemesis (How was the post Stolen Bourbon?)
- Does it work - yes
- Would it break Moose - probably...
As an aside - I really don't know how you'd do on the lattice test - you've done routes on North Buttress, so can't be that weak on steep climbing, and have OS'd 7c/+ at Chulilla, so i'd take a punt and say 45 moves with a steep decline and woefully low (sub 20%) an-cap.
In reply to Dandan:
Following up on my prediction for Moose:
- finger strength >95% on Tom's test edge (i.e. you're strong enough for 8b)
- Top end; <45 moves
- STEEP decline - high-lighting underlying lack of aero-cap
- Leveling off at <10 moves/20-25% an-cap
Anyone else gonna take a guess?
Following up on my prediction for Moose:
- finger strength >95% on Tom's test edge (i.e. you're strong enough for 8b)
- Top end; <45 moves
- STEEP decline - high-lighting underlying lack of aero-cap
- Leveling off at <10 moves/20-25% an-cap
Anyone else gonna take a guess?
In reply to Ally Smith:
Place your bets!
EDIT: I'm also now really pleased that I understand what all of those figures mean
> Following up on my prediction for Moose:
> - finger strength >95% on Tom's test edge (i.e. you're strong enough for 8b)
> - Top end; - STEEP decline - high-lighting underlying lack of aero-cap
> - Leveling off at Anyone else gonna take a guess?
Place your bets!
EDIT: I'm also now really pleased that I understand what all of those figures mean
Post edited at 16:26
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers for that Ally (I think.... cruel to be kind).
It's not so much that I am unwilling to try, I just think the gain efficiency would have to be pretty high to justify the opportunity cost versus two days at Kilnsey / Malham - actually trying routes hasn't failed yet......that said, if I ever really got the yen to climb Grooved Arete I think such a systemic approach would be required.
I recognise that I have weaknesses... mainly being weak! Also, poor power-stamina - is that an-cap (basically the Raindogs-esque 70 second countdown to do as many moves as possible at 70-80% max end of things!). I did try a program of repeaters to address this but just ended up with knackered elbows - the sheer number of hangs did for me - a max hangs regime fits in better with my aged decrepitude (as well as being mentally easier to handle).
Indoor bouldering 4x4s etc might be a more enjoyable way of approaching it but I am wary of becoming one of these Kilnsey / Malham cliches who spend all of their time talking, planning, and being injured through over-training, rather than actually climbing and just really going for it when required.
I didn't have any post-Stolen booze I am afraid.... 40 days dry and counting - very Biblical, I am expecting Satan to appear and point me to a nice special offer on Elijah Craig Barrel Strength..... Almost afraid to resume my toping ways as I suspect the hangover would be apocalyptic (that's the main reason I gave up in the first place - not really for climbing - my weight is the same as it ever was - ticking Stolen was just suitably distant end-point).
> Yep - there are always going to be compromises for time on route v. specific training.
> Hitting the right balance to keep it all fun is going to be a very personal thing - for you - it sounds like you're unwilling/unable to do anything mid-week beyond some finger-boarding.
> Hitting the right balance to keep it all fun is going to be a very personal thing - for you - it sounds like you're unwilling/unable to do anything mid-week beyond some finger-boarding.
> - Does it fit with my current injuries and available time - no.
> - Does it limit the fun you have - no - it's delayed fun - you're putting money in the bank to cash in when you tick a nemesis (How was the post Stolen Bourbon?)
> - Does it work - yes
> - Would it break Moose - probably...
> - Does it limit the fun you have - no - it's delayed fun - you're putting money in the bank to cash in when you tick a nemesis (How was the post Stolen Bourbon?)
> - Does it work - yes
> - Would it break Moose - probably...
> As an aside - I really don't know how you'd do on the lattice test - you've done routes on North Buttress, so can't be that weak on steep climbing, and have OS'd 7c/+ at Chulilla, so i'd take a punt and say 45 moves with a steep decline and woefully low (sub 20%) an-cap.
Cheers for that Ally (I think.... cruel to be kind).
It's not so much that I am unwilling to try, I just think the gain efficiency would have to be pretty high to justify the opportunity cost versus two days at Kilnsey / Malham - actually trying routes hasn't failed yet......that said, if I ever really got the yen to climb Grooved Arete I think such a systemic approach would be required.
I recognise that I have weaknesses... mainly being weak! Also, poor power-stamina - is that an-cap (basically the Raindogs-esque 70 second countdown to do as many moves as possible at 70-80% max end of things!). I did try a program of repeaters to address this but just ended up with knackered elbows - the sheer number of hangs did for me - a max hangs regime fits in better with my aged decrepitude (as well as being mentally easier to handle).
Indoor bouldering 4x4s etc might be a more enjoyable way of approaching it but I am wary of becoming one of these Kilnsey / Malham cliches who spend all of their time talking, planning, and being injured through over-training, rather than actually climbing and just really going for it when required.
I didn't have any post-Stolen booze I am afraid.... 40 days dry and counting - very Biblical, I am expecting Satan to appear and point me to a nice special offer on Elijah Craig Barrel Strength..... Almost afraid to resume my toping ways as I suspect the hangover would be apocalyptic (that's the main reason I gave up in the first place - not really for climbing - my weight is the same as it ever was - ticking Stolen was just suitably distant end-point).
1
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Is that the bourbon you recommended?
> I didn't have any post-Stolen booze I am afraid.... 40 days dry and counting - very Biblical, I am expecting Satan to appear and point me to a nice special offer on Elijah Craig Barrel Strength..... Almost afraid to resume my toping ways as I suspect the hangover would be apocalyptic (that's the main reason I gave up in the first place - not really for climbing - my weight is the same as it ever was - ticking Stolen was just suitably distant end-point).
Is that the bourbon you recommended?
In reply to Ally Smith:
Aye.... just checked and found that is is no longer readily available - the remaining bottles are now £95 (mine was around £55). Premium alternatives I love are Bookers
https://www.masterofmalt.com/whiskies/jim-beam/bookers-7-year-old-true-barr...
and Blanton's Gold (or even better, Straight from the Barrel):
https://www.masterofmalt.com/whiskies/blantons-gold-edition-whiskey/
Very good cheaper options, just to see if you like bourbons are the standard Elijah Craig 12 y.o and Evan Williams Single Barrel, both of which I have seen in Waitrose for around £35.
https://www.masterofmalt.com/whiskies/heaven-hill/evan-williams-single-barr...
Knob Creek and the 50% abv "100" version of Wild Turkey are pretty good too. My own taste is for bourbons with a lot of rye in the mash bill, so you might find them to your taste if you like rye whiskies. The likes of Jack Daniels and Makers Mark are almost entirely corn, but a bourbon can have up to 49% rye (or any other grain).
Aye.... just checked and found that is is no longer readily available - the remaining bottles are now £95 (mine was around £55). Premium alternatives I love are Bookers
https://www.masterofmalt.com/whiskies/jim-beam/bookers-7-year-old-true-barr...
and Blanton's Gold (or even better, Straight from the Barrel):
https://www.masterofmalt.com/whiskies/blantons-gold-edition-whiskey/
Very good cheaper options, just to see if you like bourbons are the standard Elijah Craig 12 y.o and Evan Williams Single Barrel, both of which I have seen in Waitrose for around £35.
https://www.masterofmalt.com/whiskies/heaven-hill/evan-williams-single-barr...
Knob Creek and the 50% abv "100" version of Wild Turkey are pretty good too. My own taste is for bourbons with a lot of rye in the mash bill, so you might find them to your taste if you like rye whiskies. The likes of Jack Daniels and Makers Mark are almost entirely corn, but a bourbon can have up to 49% rye (or any other grain).
and for a good rye, I like the High West stuff - made using the same 95% rye juice distillate as the Bulleit rye but the aging / barrel selection seems to result in a slightly nicer taste (though possibly not worth the extra cost - the Bulleit rye is one of the best value whiskies around imho):
https://www.thewhiskyexchange.com/p/13408/high-west-rendezvous-rye
the High West "Double Rye" is even beter iirc but is no longer available.
One of the most surprisingly good US craft whiskies I have had of late is a quinoa whiskey, nice but odd earthy taste... the bottle went all too quick:
https://www.thewhiskyexchange.com/p/31741/corsair-quinoa-whiskey
my training regimen was to drink those, and if I wanted a grade boost, book a holiday!
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Totally anecdotal bit I'm convinced this approach was what got me up Arch Enemies recently.
I haven't done an assessment with Tom but from doing some specific benchmarks on a beastmaker, and from discussing the types of failure I had been seeing on my recent projects with some knowledgeable friends, I identified that rather than more ancap or anpow training, what I really needed was an aerobic boost. My projects were relatively short (15m?) and I've done a lot of aerocap work in the past, so I decided that focussing on aeropow was at least worth a shot. From Barrows' well known training article I deduced also that you can see some pretty quick gains from aeropow training (3-4 weeks) and that it can be done on a fingerboard (foot on campusing.)
So basically what I did was spend 3-4 weeks focussing all of my training (2-3 short evening sessions on a fingerboard at home per week) doing FoC to get as boxed as I could lots of times, rather than doing longer sessions of max hangs or repeaters as I'd have otherwise done. This didn't compromise my time outside at all - I was still climbing at weekends (although the weather didn't play ball very in that period anyway.)
Prior to that 3 weeks, I had had 3 proper redpoint sessions and about 8-9 serious redpoint attempts on the route, ending in the same couple of moves near the top. After the 3 weeks, at my first session there on my first attempt I suddenly found myself through the moves still feeling good, did the next move as well and then was so excited I basically jumped right off the wall when doing the slap for the finishing jug. I ticked it next go and it didn't feel like my limit.
I've always been a bit sceptical of some of this stuff - generally i think the best method is just to try hard whenever you are training, but not do it too often - but in this case I'm convinced that it made a really big difference, and not only that, but in only a 3-4 week period and without taking away from my outside climbing. (The only downside is that it did temporarily knock my strength for bouldering slightly I think, I'm now working that back up.)
Si
Totally anecdotal bit I'm convinced this approach was what got me up Arch Enemies recently.
I haven't done an assessment with Tom but from doing some specific benchmarks on a beastmaker, and from discussing the types of failure I had been seeing on my recent projects with some knowledgeable friends, I identified that rather than more ancap or anpow training, what I really needed was an aerobic boost. My projects were relatively short (15m?) and I've done a lot of aerocap work in the past, so I decided that focussing on aeropow was at least worth a shot. From Barrows' well known training article I deduced also that you can see some pretty quick gains from aeropow training (3-4 weeks) and that it can be done on a fingerboard (foot on campusing.)
So basically what I did was spend 3-4 weeks focussing all of my training (2-3 short evening sessions on a fingerboard at home per week) doing FoC to get as boxed as I could lots of times, rather than doing longer sessions of max hangs or repeaters as I'd have otherwise done. This didn't compromise my time outside at all - I was still climbing at weekends (although the weather didn't play ball very in that period anyway.)
Prior to that 3 weeks, I had had 3 proper redpoint sessions and about 8-9 serious redpoint attempts on the route, ending in the same couple of moves near the top. After the 3 weeks, at my first session there on my first attempt I suddenly found myself through the moves still feeling good, did the next move as well and then was so excited I basically jumped right off the wall when doing the slap for the finishing jug. I ticked it next go and it didn't feel like my limit.
I've always been a bit sceptical of some of this stuff - generally i think the best method is just to try hard whenever you are training, but not do it too often - but in this case I'm convinced that it made a really big difference, and not only that, but in only a 3-4 week period and without taking away from my outside climbing. (The only downside is that it did temporarily knock my strength for bouldering slightly I think, I'm now working that back up.)
Si
Post edited at 18:23
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Can I ask what your last result was on the Lattice board Ally? Not got my report yet but i'll post up the results when I do.
Can I ask what your last result was on the Lattice board Ally? Not got my report yet but i'll post up the results when I do.
1
In reply to Dandan:
My last true lattice test was done a couple of weaks after getting back from Kalymnos in Nov 2014; on that trip I'd OS'd my first 8a and 3x 7c+ OS.
Fingerstrength 93% (It'd be 95% at pre-Kalymnos "fighting weight")
Moves on the board: 68, 51, 42, 32, 26, 20, 16, 15, i.e. leveling off at 23% an-cap.
Time on board: 129s, 104s, 84s, 64s, 50s, 38s, 32s, 34s.
Since then, similar FoC test regimes have given me an-cap readings in the 25-30% range, which is more suitable for my UK route aims. e.g. Pre-Chulilla Nov 2015 (another 8a OS trip, with quick 8a+/b RP too)
311s, 211s, 152s, 130s, 106s, 89s, 78s, 79s = 25% an-cap
Evidently we don't know the correlation between lattice and FoC data from my specific board, but the profiles/methodology compare well.
My last true lattice test was done a couple of weaks after getting back from Kalymnos in Nov 2014; on that trip I'd OS'd my first 8a and 3x 7c+ OS.
Fingerstrength 93% (It'd be 95% at pre-Kalymnos "fighting weight")
Moves on the board: 68, 51, 42, 32, 26, 20, 16, 15, i.e. leveling off at 23% an-cap.
Time on board: 129s, 104s, 84s, 64s, 50s, 38s, 32s, 34s.
Since then, similar FoC test regimes have given me an-cap readings in the 25-30% range, which is more suitable for my UK route aims. e.g. Pre-Chulilla Nov 2015 (another 8a OS trip, with quick 8a+/b RP too)
311s, 211s, 152s, 130s, 106s, 89s, 78s, 79s = 25% an-cap
Evidently we don't know the correlation between lattice and FoC data from my specific board, but the profiles/methodology compare well.
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
For those of us interested in such assessments, could you explain the numbers?
Finger-strength: 93% - of what - the normal for your max RP grade?
The moves on the board / time on the board, is that successive stints of foot-on-campusing after a rest (how long?)? How is the an-cap% calculated from that - what does it mean - % of what - is 100% the score achieved by a mythical an-cap monster (Stakhanov with a rope)?
For those of us interested in such assessments, could you explain the numbers?
Finger-strength: 93% - of what - the normal for your max RP grade?
The moves on the board / time on the board, is that successive stints of foot-on-campusing after a rest (how long?)? How is the an-cap% calculated from that - what does it mean - % of what - is 100% the score achieved by a mythical an-cap monster (Stakhanov with a rope)?
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Hopefully it all made sense to Dan, but otherwise:
Finger-strength - on Tom's test edge in his torture chamber/basement:
% of bodyweight held on this edge 1-handed for minimum 5s hang. i.e. 72.5 kg of 77.7 kg (lardy) mass
Aero-power/lactate tolerance test on the lattice board. Go round and round on the lattice board with Tom pointing at holds as you go. Not sure if the Lattice protocol has evolved since I last went to Sheffield...
1st go - max number of moves before you pump out and fall off in a sweaty and pumped heap. This headline figure gives an indication of your likely max Euro OS grade - the correlation/thresholds have definitely changed since Tom last tested me, but at the time, 70 moves was the threshold for f8a OS (110 for 8a+ OS if i remember correctly).
Wait 20min, then do another go at 75% of max - Tom records time.
Rest is half work time (180s on the board, rest 90s and go again to failure), repeat ad nauseum
The rest intervals offer little respite from accumulated lactate and you get more and more pumped until you can't recover and you are working purely an-aerobically. Thus, the point at which you level off tells you about your an-cap; the bigger the an-aerobic contribution to your output, the higher this number is.
Too high and you'll get monster pumps, too low and you wont have a high enough energy output to do hard/sustained sections on a route i.e. the crux!
Balancing it all out is where the coaching and plans from Tom and the Lattice Team comes in...
Edit: The FoC test is done in a similar way to the protocol mentioned above, recording time on the board, not number of moves (1-3-5-5-3-2-1 repeat) but not waiting 20min between max and 2nd go, just your 50% work/rest interval.
Hopefully it all made sense to Dan, but otherwise:
Finger-strength - on Tom's test edge in his torture chamber/basement:
% of bodyweight held on this edge 1-handed for minimum 5s hang. i.e. 72.5 kg of 77.7 kg (lardy) mass
Aero-power/lactate tolerance test on the lattice board. Go round and round on the lattice board with Tom pointing at holds as you go. Not sure if the Lattice protocol has evolved since I last went to Sheffield...
1st go - max number of moves before you pump out and fall off in a sweaty and pumped heap. This headline figure gives an indication of your likely max Euro OS grade - the correlation/thresholds have definitely changed since Tom last tested me, but at the time, 70 moves was the threshold for f8a OS (110 for 8a+ OS if i remember correctly).
Wait 20min, then do another go at 75% of max - Tom records time.
Rest is half work time (180s on the board, rest 90s and go again to failure), repeat ad nauseum
The rest intervals offer little respite from accumulated lactate and you get more and more pumped until you can't recover and you are working purely an-aerobically. Thus, the point at which you level off tells you about your an-cap; the bigger the an-aerobic contribution to your output, the higher this number is.
Too high and you'll get monster pumps, too low and you wont have a high enough energy output to do hard/sustained sections on a route i.e. the crux!
Balancing it all out is where the coaching and plans from Tom and the Lattice Team comes in...
Edit: The FoC test is done in a similar way to the protocol mentioned above, recording time on the board, not number of moves (1-3-5-5-3-2-1 repeat) but not waiting 20min between max and 2nd go, just your 50% work/rest interval.
Post edited at 12:02
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers for that - well explained. I suspect your assesssment of my finger-strength was pretty reasonable then (last night I was doing 6s hangs at around 92% of bodyweight from the 18mm rung of my board - its a slick plastic rung and I had already done a session of two-arm weighted 5/5x5 repeaters so I was already bit tired).
I reckon I would be very poor at the other tests - even the aero-power, max moves one - unless there are rest jugs every 20 moves and you can tell Tom to sod off if he starts pointing at holds before you are good and recovered!
Cheers for that - well explained. I suspect your assesssment of my finger-strength was pretty reasonable then (last night I was doing 6s hangs at around 92% of bodyweight from the 18mm rung of my board - its a slick plastic rung and I had already done a session of two-arm weighted 5/5x5 repeaters so I was already bit tired).
I reckon I would be very poor at the other tests - even the aero-power, max moves one - unless there are rest jugs every 20 moves and you can tell Tom to sod off if he starts pointing at holds before you are good and recovered!
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
You must have caught tom in a bad mood - I'm sure I've always been 1:1 not 1:0.5.........
You must have caught tom in a bad mood - I'm sure I've always been 1:1 not 1:0.5.........
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I was using rest time = 'climbing' time, rather than rest time = 50% of climbing time, when doing FoC on the fingerboard. Oops!
EDIT: I see Andy was the same - good!
Maybe 50% is for wads who can do it for over twice as long as me on their first go...Ally (over 6 minutes!)
I was using rest time = 'climbing' time, rather than rest time = 50% of climbing time, when doing FoC on the fingerboard. Oops!
EDIT: I see Andy was the same - good!
Maybe 50% is for wads who can do it for over twice as long as me on their first go...Ally (over 6 minutes!)
Post edited at 12:35
In reply to Ally Smith:
Based on how long (or not) I was on the board each time, I'm guessing I had rest time equal to climb time too, but I couldn't be sure.
Aside from that it seems the lattice protocol hasn't changed at all, it was exactly as you describe, which is kind of the point I suppose!
The 18mm edge is now a standardised machined edge ( I think it's a strip of the new lattice board rungs mounted horizontally, there's a smaller hold below the main part of the hold) but I guess it's identical in difficulty to the old one.
The one arm hang was my strong point by quite some margin
Based on how long (or not) I was on the board each time, I'm guessing I had rest time equal to climb time too, but I couldn't be sure.
Aside from that it seems the lattice protocol hasn't changed at all, it was exactly as you describe, which is kind of the point I suppose!
The 18mm edge is now a standardised machined edge ( I think it's a strip of the new lattice board rungs mounted horizontally, there's a smaller hold below the main part of the hold) but I guess it's identical in difficulty to the old one.
The one arm hang was my strong point by quite some margin
Post edited at 17:41
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Dan! Slightly odd training and climbing as the Dordogne is not an ideal situation for either, though excellent for food and sun. Found a new local crag which I have now added to UKC and was most pleased with my trampolining performance. I think I could go for ever, but got bored... Definitely felt it the next day!
M - fingerboard
T - sport Rocher des Corbeaux
W - fingerboard
T/F - rest
S - sea swimming Devon.
1533 trampoline sit drops
S - led a couple of routes on Sheepstor so a friend could second, but spent most of the day running bottom roping for some kids. Think they enjoyed it.
Morning Dan! Slightly odd training and climbing as the Dordogne is not an ideal situation for either, though excellent for food and sun. Found a new local crag which I have now added to UKC and was most pleased with my trampolining performance. I think I could go for ever, but got bored... Definitely felt it the next day!
M - fingerboard
T - sport Rocher des Corbeaux
W - fingerboard
T/F - rest
S - sea swimming Devon.
1533 trampoline sit drops
S - led a couple of routes on Sheepstor so a friend could second, but spent most of the day running bottom roping for some kids. Think they enjoyed it.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Quick update as I am super late with it.
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Shipwreck. Quite chilly. Flashed a nice 6c, had a terrible battle with Marine Layer (7a/+) which ended at, um, about the second bolt. Round 2 went pretty much the same way. Just totally failing to grasp how to deal with it!
Wedns: Shipwreck. Damp and chilly again. Some of the easier routes up to 6b+, fell off the top of a 6c+.
Thurs: Foxhole. Goose In Lucy 2nd go, did the moves on The Hooker (7a) but no time for a RP.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Godnor Far North with friends, their small baby and even smaller dog! Set up some topropes and had a very pleasant day.
Sun: Battleship. Had a look at Shapeshifter - got a cool sequence for the boulder problem but struggling to link it. 7c seems beyond generous though.
Quick update as I am super late with it.
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Shipwreck. Quite chilly. Flashed a nice 6c, had a terrible battle with Marine Layer (7a/+) which ended at, um, about the second bolt. Round 2 went pretty much the same way. Just totally failing to grasp how to deal with it!
Wedns: Shipwreck. Damp and chilly again. Some of the easier routes up to 6b+, fell off the top of a 6c+.
Thurs: Foxhole. Goose In Lucy 2nd go, did the moves on The Hooker (7a) but no time for a RP.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Godnor Far North with friends, their small baby and even smaller dog! Set up some topropes and had a very pleasant day.
Sun: Battleship. Had a look at Shapeshifter - got a cool sequence for the boulder problem but struggling to link it. 7c seems beyond generous though.
In reply to Just Tintin:
? Is there an extra 3 on there? No wonder you got bored!
> 1533 trampoline sit drops
? Is there an extra 3 on there? No wonder you got bored!
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Yep it sucks! Sick of getting ill now. I've introduced more fruit and water to my diet and started getting a bit more sleep to aid recovery. We'll see how it goes.
Mon: Rest
Tue: 1.5hr MTB steady
Wed: 1hr 15 min MTB sweet spots
Thu: Rest
Fri: 1hr MTB race pace
Sat: 1hr MTB trail skills
Sun: 2hrs MTB Cannock social ride
STGs:
Follow bike plan
Climb or strength train 2x per week
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
MTGs (before end 2016):
Boulder V5/6
Get competent at skiing part 1: Levels 1-3 TICK!
Get competent at skiing part 2: Levels 4-6 at Chill Factore
Cheers Dan. Yep it sucks! Sick of getting ill now. I've introduced more fruit and water to my diet and started getting a bit more sleep to aid recovery. We'll see how it goes.
Mon: Rest
Tue: 1.5hr MTB steady
Wed: 1hr 15 min MTB sweet spots
Thu: Rest
Fri: 1hr MTB race pace
Sat: 1hr MTB trail skills
Sun: 2hrs MTB Cannock social ride
STGs:
Follow bike plan
Climb or strength train 2x per week
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
MTGs (before end 2016):
Boulder V5/6
Get competent at skiing part 1: Levels 1-3 TICK!
Get competent at skiing part 2: Levels 4-6 at Chill Factore
In reply to Nick Russell:
No typos - some friends are moving and I had to make sure the house record on their trampoline (me with 1001) survived an 11-year old gymnast visiting the weekend after me... thankfully it did...
No typos - some friends are moving and I had to make sure the house record on their trampoline (me with 1001) survived an 11-year old gymnast visiting the weekend after me... thankfully it did...
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