UKC

High 6s or low 7s, either steep and continuous or with big roofs. Would love to try something like this.

Have read about filey brigg, how are the bolts and conditions currently?

Any other recommendations preferably in the north would be great

In reply to Liamhutch89:
Kilnsey, though the really steep stuff kicks off at 7b+

In reply to Misha:

Thanks I will surely check Kilnsey out but I don't know if I'd even dog my way up 7b+ yet as 7a+ is about my 'redpoint' limit

In reply to Liamhutch89:

Taking the Mick and Smooth Torquer at Kilnsey are both 7a+; both are very steep and both are very good.

Taking the Mick (7a+)
Smooth Torquer (7a+)

In reply to Liamhutch89: This, and the routes around it should fit the bill.
Rubicon (7a)

Andy F

In reply to Liamhutch89:

Depends on whether you're referring to the north of the UK, or the north of England, or if you're prepared to travel, but there are loads of steep, juggy routes at those sorts of grades on the NE Scotland coast, south of Aberdeen. Have a look at crags such as Boltsheugh, Clashfarquhar, Portlethen, The Keel and The Fin.

It's a case of quantity making up for quality, mind! I'm not sure I'd recommend travelling far for just one of those routes/crags, but you'll certainly not be short of things to go at if you do make the trip!

In reply to Liamhutch89:

Not world class, but some steep climbing at panorama crag and maughton nab might wet your appetite?

In reply to Liamhutch89:
Raw Deal (7a) is very steep.

Fats Waller (6c+) is impossibly steep

In reply to Liamhutch89:

Loup Scar has some good ones - I enjoyed this:

Slap Happy (7a+)

In reply to tmawer:
Was going to recommend Panorama Crag (Austwick) myself. Went for the first time recently, can't wait to go back!

Also Pulp Friction (6c+) at Giggleswick North has a pretty steep lower section. Definitely going to give it a crack on my next visit.

And the Hollywood Bowl section is mega steep, but most of the routes exceed the grades you've requested.

In reply to zimpara:


You really need to recalibrate what you think is steep - Raw Deal is only about 20-25 degrees overhanging at the top.

To the OP - Filey is excellent fun, and the bolts are absolutely massive! 20cm long bits of threaded rod glued in - probably one of the most rugged bolting methods i've ever seen.

In reply to Liamhutch89:

Not the north but steep as u like and brilliant is The Raven (7a+)

In reply to luke glaister:

Would have thought a lot of routes at Foxhole (Gower) would fit the bill.

In reply to Ian Bell:

I've never been there Ian. But have been told it's worth a look. Steep and juggy.

In reply to Liamhutch89:
Far right end of Kilnsey has a few
Rubicon (7a)
Filey has a real gem in watkins ale (6b+) if it's still there (ignore the grade, it fits your requirements)
jk

In reply to Liamhutch89:

Under the boardwalk 6c at LPT. The Refrain 7a+/7b just to the left of it. Nightglue 7a+, juggy start, technical afterwards.

In reply to luke glaister:

yep your sources are correct, steep and juggy. non tidal but nicely close to the sea as well and best of all has a nice cafe / ice cream shop at the parking. perfect Gower combo!

In reply to zmv:


Can't comment on nightglue having not been on it, but the others really don't fit the requirement, surely?! They're technical and nearly vertical bar a few bits which I wouldn't really describe as juggy.

The boardwalk had some slopers and a mantle near the top whilstthe refrain had an awkward top move to a little crimp followed by a mantle...

In reply to James Malloch:

Foxhole on the Gower has plenty. Did a 6c and a 7a there last week which were the steepest things I've ever climbed.

In reply to James Malloch:

Boardwalk and nightglue are basically vertical aren't they? Night glue has a bulge but it's not continuously overhanging?

Promenade and some bits of dancing ledge at swanage (Mexican wave etc) fit the bill aside from very definitely not being in the north. Lulworth too if dws is your bag.

In reply to AJM:

True gently overhanging, however generally on good holds. This was the closest I could think of in this grade range in the UK.

I imagine there would be some stuff in the Cornice as well but I am yet to venture there.

In reply to Liamhutch89:

Probably in the wrong part of the country.
Mexican wave, dancing ledge, swanage. 7a+
Some of the promonade, swanage
Brean down has a more gentle continuous overhang, 7a and up.
Chee dale?

In reply to Liamhutch89:

Yosemite Wall at Malham...big holds all the way!

In reply to Liamhutch89:

Awesome Wal!s Sheffield and The Foundry. Best steep climbing, particularly in the lower grades is all indoors in this country.

Then go to Kalymnos.