UKC

Verdon Gorge ... with novices..

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 Braintax 16 Aug 2016
Hi... so, last minute trip to learn how to parasail with a couple of friends and we chose Saint-André-les-Alpes as our base.

We are staying on to climb for a week, at my insistence ....

They have climbed a little bit really are still wall/ beginners and I suspect would enjoy seconding a 6b (to start with!).

My questions is - are there actually any crag like spots in the area, driving isn't an issue. The goal would be to get them up to scratch and finish with a straightforward multi pitch in Verdon style.

Help much appreciated, even if you say it's a stupid idea !!

Dan

 1poundSOCKS 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

> They have climbed a little bit really are still wall/ beginners and I suspect would enjoy seconding a 6b (to start with!).

I went to Verdon as a beginner, and found F6a pretty desperate. I'd lead F6a+ back home. Although maybe they've got talent.

> are there actually any crag like spots in the area, driving isn't an issue.

This is a good crag...

Les Hauts Vernis

And you're only 1 hour from Chateau Vert, a brilliant crag for beginners, but I think there are some access issues so check if you plan to go.

 Goucho 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

I'm trying to think of a worse place than the Verdon Gorge to take wall/beginners on their first multi-pitch, but I can't
Gone for good 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:
I went to Gorge de Verdon and climbed this!
http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/178373/fr/verdon-malines-arete-du-belveder...

Graded 5+ with an interesting descent to get to the base of the climb. It's a fairly broken up but good fun none the less and the only easy climb in the Gorge.
Post edited at 20:54
 earlsdonwhu 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

Plenty of smaller crags on the Aiguines side of the gorge which might be more suitable for beginners. Obviously the gorge itself is bloody committing.
 Tyler 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Goucho:

> I'm trying to think of a worse place than the Verdon Gorge to take wall/beginners on their first multi-pitch, but I can't

All depends on your perspective, it would make cracking viewing.
 Tyler 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

> My questions is - are there actually any crag like spots in the area, driving isn't an issue. The goal would be to get them up to scratch and finish with a straightforward multi pitch in Verdon style.
Would you be climbing in pairs, most of the multi pitch actually start half way up the walls where you need to do multiple abseiled to hanging stances. If you are doing a route from the bottom they are very long. I did one once, I was going well so agreed to do La Demande on a rest day. We managed a reasonable pace (didn't take a rack for reasons that are too complicated to go into) and emerged at the top in the pitch black very dehydrated. I needed several rest days afterwards. That said its an amazing place and if you can get on Reve de Fer with a competent mate you'll have the time of your life.

> Help much appreciated, even if you say it's a stupid idea !!
It's a stupid idea

 alpinist63 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:
free tibet (6a+)is approached by foot, descent by foot, so no rappels. 5 or 6 pitches long and except the first pitch, nice route.
voie des dalles (5c/5c+) also nice route, easier climbing but overall more comitting. approach involves easy downclimbing, the route is longer and the climbing is more 'old school', so might feel harder for less experienced climbers.
there are a couple of easier ( 5c , 6a , 3 pitches, well protected and not too steep) routes under the belvedere du dent d aire but these are approached from above by rappel.
derobee /rasoir : 6a, with 2pts of aid on the last pitch. excellent route in a nice part of the gorge. you can approach the route through the tunnels from the couloir samson, then after climbing the route, rappel back down.
this would be possible programm for people climbing ( folowing) 6a
Post edited at 06:23
 snoop6060 17 Aug 2016
In reply to alpinist63:

Throw them off the top to do wide is love on a top rope. see how they enjoy the fresh air.

I'm sure you could get them up something at a push but I'd really want to be with someone who could actually deal with an accident or epic. It's a very quiet, lonely place. Not the place to get stuck with a novice. Not sure you even get phone signal.
 Peter Milner 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

I'd recommend La Valaute ( La Valaute (Verdon)) as an easy access, non-scary venue with easy grades. It's a sort of subsidiary ravine to the main gorge that you can walk to from one of the belvederes.
 minty1984 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

I am in the verdon area at the moment and have found the grades stiff?.... Pretty comfortable on 6A/6A+ and have not finished a single route of that grade here!....

I have climbed at Le galatas which is a crag outside the gorge. This has a lower wall of extremely easy over bolted routes and an upper wall of longer harder stuff. The grades felt stiff on the upper sections and the bolting was spaced on some routes

Also climbed at les hauts vernis. I found the grades here to be wildy off! Maybe just not used to the area? I climbed 4 5C routes that all felt very desperate. I have climbed easier 6A+ at other crags in france?

I would second the La Valaute crag. This is a nice place with some good, but polished routes. Grades feel more realistic and the bolting is reasonable to very good. A few multi-pitches too and simple walk in.

 Hephaestus 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

Terrible idea if you chuck them down a multi-abseil descent to sample their first Verdon 6b, but an amazing trip if you choose the right areas and routes.
OP Braintax 17 Aug 2016
Everyone... fantastic feedback, really helpful - appreciate it.

By the looks of it i'll need to play it by ear, see how we get on with cragging (also love the idea of a top rope off the off the gorge). Good suggestions for me to get stuck into


.... now to find a guide book !
 silhouette 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Goucho:

> I'm trying to think of a worse place than the Verdon Gorge to take wall/beginners on their first multi-pitch, but I can't

I'll second that comment.
 Sayon 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

Last time we climbed at l'escales there were plenty of people toproping the final pitches of some of the easier routes- I cant recall the grades but i think in the 5-6a range. Easy to lower down to, and a spectacular place to climb. Clearly committing to multi-pitch is a different story.
 1poundSOCKS 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

I first got hooked on climbing, as a beginner, in the gorge back in 2011, and I responded to a UKC thread. On that thread were a lot of negative voices. We were all beginners. I'm very glad we didn't take their advice. We did exactly what you were planning, cragging and a multi-pitch at the end. One of the best weeks ever I reckon.

So don't be too put off doing a multi-pitch, just be aware of the pros and cons of doing it in the gorge. The low grade, i.e. 5/5+ routes around Dalles Grises abseil should be busy, so plenty of people around, and there's free rescue (I think, worth checking) in the gorge if you need it. The downside is the commitment, you abseil in, and not to the bottom, so you can't just walk out if you abseil into the wrong place, or can't do the route. If you can climb with a few grades in hand, and the beginners just want to second, maybe not a problem. Be sure to wear helmets obviously, a lot of loose stuff is knocking around the top of routes, and on belay ledges. But climbing should be about making your own risk assessment, so listen to everyone and make a call based on what you and your friends are comfortable with.

 Peter Milner 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:
There's also Felines (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10182) on the way to Moustiers - mainly 2-pitch crag with easy walk-in.
Post edited at 12:31
 minty1984 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Braintax:

Just sent you an email about guidebook stuff

If you are close to Castellane you can come and take a look at mine?

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