UKC

Chalk Climbing

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 WaterMonkey 17 Aug 2016
Having read the thread about climbing classic gritstone routes and damaging them what is the general consensus on chalk climbing?

I understand you have to use ice axes and crampons which clearly damages the chalk. Is it illegal? should it be?

2
 RyanOsborne 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Steve-J-E:

> Having read the thread about climbing classic gritstone routes and damaging them what is the general consensus on chalk climbing?

> I understand you have to use ice axes and crampons which clearly damages the chalk. Is it illegal? should it be?

It'll probably fall down next week, so don't see what the problem is.
 Cheese Monkey 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Steve-J-E:

Considering there's probably only a very very small handful of regular chalk climbers compared with gritstone hordes I don't really think it's much of an issue.
abseil 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Steve-J-E:

I use powdered gritstone on my hands when I climb chalk. It seems only fair.
 Goucho 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Steve-J-E:

> Having read the thread about climbing classic gritstone routes and damaging them what is the general consensus on chalk climbing?

> I understand you have to use ice axes and crampons which clearly damages the chalk. Is it illegal? should it be?

The fact you need balls as a big as a dump truck - think Mick Fowler & Phil Thornhill - it is not a branch of the sport with that many advocates, and therefore unlikely to become an environmental issue
 David Staples 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Steve-J-E:
Well we did Skeleton Ridge, The Needles, IoW a couple of weeks ago and it was impossible to prevent the rock (Or cheese) from breaking off in your hand. Leading the final pitch I must have reduced the ridge by a few kilos with the amount of loose rock that fell off while bum shuffling my way along it. And that was without axes and crampons so on vertical stuff I doubt there would be anyone mad enough to try it in rock shoes without axes and crampons. So from a climbers point of view I don't see much of a problem, if it left nasty horrible scars on the cliff that detracted from the beauty then maybe it should be stopped.

Who the hell knows though.
Post edited at 13:25
 Bob M 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Goucho:

Skeleton Ridge is probably the only chalk route that sees regular ascents, and its climbed with ordinary rock climbing gear. You don't need ice axes or crampons. Nor do you need balls as big as a dump truck - in fact they would be a serious handicap on the à cheval sections.
 Yanis Nayu 17 Aug 2016
In reply to Steve-J-E:

> Having read the thread about climbing classic gritstone routes and damaging them what is the general consensus on chalk climbing?

> I understand you have to use ice axes and crampons which clearly damages the chalk. Is it illegal? should it be?

Climbing chalk is ok as long as you dry your hands in bags of powdered gritstone.
1
 Yanis Nayu 17 Aug 2016
In reply to abseil:

> I use powdered gritstone on my hands when I climb chalk. It seems only fair.

Shit, beat me to it. Thought I was being a right funny f*cker!

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