UKC

Im looking at going climbing over the bank holiday and fancy visiting a new area, ideally trad in the VS-E2 range, but struggling to decide by just looking at the topos online....deer-in-the-headlights-with-too-many-options-syndrome.

London based and climb a fair bit in N.wales, peak and Portland so these are not on the hitlist, so where would you recommend I go for super fun routes (ideally, techy, slabby stuff rather than overhanging-jug hauling is my thing but Im open to suggestions) that are reasonably easy to get to and preferably have a good pub nearby!

Cheers!
Luke

In reply to Birks:

Parbold Quarry, Adel Crag or Stannington Ruffs. Can't go wrong.

In reply to Birks:

Pembrokeshire

In reply to Kid Spatula:

Can you even get a guidebook covering stannington ruffs these days?

I have been tempted to go and look upon it for ages.

In reply to Birks:

West Cornwall is amazing, but probably not the best choice in the height of the summer holidays.

In reply to Birks:

Lundy, but I doubt you'll be able to book it at this late stage.

In reply to Birks:

Can't go wrong with Pembroke. North for slabs (sandstone), south for jugs.

In reply to Birks:

Pembroke is like a better swanage. Tends to be reasonable weather.

I've just returned from the culm coast, loads of slabs and some face climbs. Was there for 3 days and didn't see another climber.

Shorn cliff for slabs, but mostly upto hvs, probably only a day or two tho. The wye valley is lovely though, and if you want bigger then Wintours will supply. If you go up stream, a canoe trip down the river on a hot day is ideal.

In reply to stevieb:

I've just got back from a trip to West Penwith - there was one other party on Chair Ladder (that we saw), and only six people on Bosigran on Monday. I've climbed there on August bank holidays a couple of times in recent years, and generally venues have been pretty quiet.

In reply to Kevster:


Actually a reasonable selection of (soft) slabby E1 and E2s there as well

In reply to Birks:

head to the lakes if forecast is good langdale is very special particularly I'd you can stay at the Nat trust campsite though you may struggle to book at such short notice. much quieter on the other side around Duddon valley. the new lakes guidebook is a cracker if rather heavy.

In reply to Birks:

Stay away from the Lakes.

It's all mine...

In reply to bouldery bits:

Thanks for all the replies and advice, very much appreciated.

Apologies in advance to bouldery bits as after 7 years in London, I'm moving back to live in Kendal next month...

In reply to Birks:

Feel free to look us up when you get up here like.

Cheers

In reply to Birks:

Baggy point. But check the bird bans

In reply to Birks:

Ynys Lochtyn

In reply to Birks:

Overnight train to Scotland, towards Glencoe/Fort William and see what takes your fancy.

In reply to Birks:
That place down in kent. Dunno what its called

In reply to RyanOsborne:


Seriously, is it worth a visit?

In reply to davidbeynon:


A bit short on slabs? And as for the Swanage suggestion......

In reply to Postmanpat:

Pembrokeshire Short on slabs? Really?

There are literally miles of slabby crags on the south coast, and the north isn't exactly short of them either.

If you only had the Rockfax guide you might be forgiven for thinking there weren't any slabs, but then you would probably think there were only about 4 routes in the county below E2 as well.

In reply to Birks:

Fairy cave quarry near Glastonbury. Only 2-2.5 hours from London

In reply to Steve-J-E:

It's a good crag but hardly a bank holiday weekend destination!

In reply to davidbeynon:



I guess so, but never really seem like the main event.

In reply to spenser:

I think that's up to the OP!

We did it the last weekend whilst also visiting Avon Gorge and Wye valley.

In reply to Postmanpat:

They would be if you went there for slab climbing.

In reply to Steve-J-E:

VS-E2 for a bank holiday from London screams Pembroke (1 day north, 2 days south I would recommend) or West Penwith in my experience (yes, I am aware that I have given the same grade range in another post and am trying to head to Scotland, that's a geographical thing).

In reply to Postmanpat:


Your own little island for the day in the middle of Cardigan bay, with no-one else around and great climbing at a range of grades? Yeah it's worth a visit.

In reply to RyanOsborne:

I used to go there for my childhood holidays. A beautiful place so I've long wondered how the climbing is.

In reply to Postmanpat:

It's great, there are some lovely routes. Menace from the Deep is excellent. Dying to do Beaj Iskis, but it was awash when we last went. Saw an orca there once.

In reply to RyanOsborne:


Sssh! It's a secret .....

Seriously though, it's an excellent venue (although I could be accused of being a little biased!) Composed of hard sandstone (same as in North Pembroke, but much blockier), it offers slabs, corners, walls and overhangs in an unique location as it's a tidal island. Just under 100 climbs from D - E4. Also there's a major dolphin feeding site about 60m offshore of the north end of the island. Ynys Lochtyn

There's also a lot of really good climbing on 2 separate buttresses on the nearby headland with just under 60 climbs from D - E3. Same solid sandstone rock in the main apart from a very few shale Culmesque XS adventure routes. There's also a 1000m long VS sea-level traverse (although there are easier ways to get to either of the pubs in nearby Llangrannog!) Pen Bilis/Lochtyn

The guide's been written is currently being page-set prior to printing - so now's the time to go if you want to be sure of peace and quiet.