UKC

Megos flashes "The Path" 8b+ (R) trad route

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 Knut R. 18 Aug 2016
That kid is mutant.

While I know that 8b+ is miles below his limit, "The Path" at Lake Louise is quite run out, on small fiddly gear. Flashing that is no small feat.
 kwoods 18 Aug 2016
In reply to shouldbebetter:

Mental. First thought: "get him on Rhapsody"...
In reply to shouldbebetter:

Yeesh. I'll be interested to see to what extent this impresses people who are harder to impress than me, i.e. actually know what they're talking about.

jcm
 sheppy 18 Aug 2016
In reply to shouldbebetter:

He has moved to a new level in terms of world climbing performance over last two years... Mind blowing!!
Anyone who claims not to be impressed by his recent feats is more than likely someone feeling threatened
 Xharlie 18 Aug 2016
In reply to sheppy:

What's his best time on the Speed route? I'm sorry, but your performance on some silly stone out in the sticks is completely irrelevant if you're like 4 seconds slower than par!
silo 18 Aug 2016
In reply to shouldbebetter:

Is that the hardest trad flash in the world?
 Dan Arkle 18 Aug 2016
In reply to silo:

What has he done on the grit?
3
OP Knut R. 18 Aug 2016
In reply to silo:

Silo,

I do not know for certain, but I'm unaware of anything which equals or betters this achievement.

I wonder if in a few months, Megos is holding a Golden Piton as a result of this.
 zv 18 Aug 2016
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Actually Bradd Pitt F7C and a bunch of other problems in the plantation, after a gazzilion days of climbing with no rest beforehand a comp a couple of years back if memory serves me right.
 zv 18 Aug 2016
In reply to shouldbebetter:

I really like this video of him spending a week in the UK and trying a bunch of stuff:

vimeo.com/93236289
OP Knut R. 18 Aug 2016
In reply to zmv:

Tragically, there hasn't been much video footage taken of him while he's been here. I'm not feeling we are likely to have a similar video of the stunning rampage he's inflicted on our meager little crags.
 zimpara 18 Aug 2016
In reply to shouldbebetter:

How is 8b+ a trad grade?
28
 1poundSOCKS 18 Aug 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> How is 8b+ a trad grade?

Not sure if that's a joke? But anyway...it's a French grade, applies to sport and trad. But over here we only use it for sport.
 aln 19 Aug 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> How is 8b+ a trad grade?

It isn't.
9
 HeMa 19 Aug 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> How is 8b+ a trad grade?

It's a grade.. tells you how hard the climb is.
Andy Gamisou 19 Aug 2016
In reply to aln:

> It isn't.

It is.
 galpinos 19 Aug 2016
In reply to zimpara:

The grade is 8b+ (R) which is a trad grade.

(It's obviously actually 5.14a (R) but same difference)
 galpinos 19 Aug 2016
In reply to aln:

In this case it is. If you told someone in North America the route was 5.14a (R) (8b+ (R)) they would know it's a trad route. Just because we don't use it as a trad grade in the UK doesn't meant it isn't one.
In reply to zimpara:

as everyone is posting, it tells you how hard it is. Also given the ubiquitous understanding of the french grade world-wide (including UK) it works really well.
 1poundSOCKS 19 Aug 2016
In reply to galpinos:

> In this case it is. If you told someone in North America the route was 5.14a (R) (8b+ (R)) they would know it's a trad route. Just because we don't use it as a trad grade in the UK doesn't meant it isn't one.

They would assume it's trad I suppose, it's more usual, and in this case it is trad, but mixed/run-out bolted routes are more common in the US, so it might just be a run-out sport route with bad fall potential. But I don't have any examples to back that up. It would just make sense if that was the case.
 galpinos 19 Aug 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Do they stick and descriptive letter on sport routes in the US then, I've never seen that?
 1poundSOCKS 19 Aug 2016
In reply to galpinos:

> Do they stick and descriptive letter on sport routes in the US then, I've never seen that?

I don't know.
 Lemony 19 Aug 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

> but mixed/run-out bolted routes are more common in the US, so it might just be a run-out sport route with bad fall potential.

The sort of thing we give trad grades to then?
 1poundSOCKS 19 Aug 2016
In reply to Lemony:

> The sort of thing we give trad grades to then?

Sometimes. There's a few routes in Horseshoe with bad clips and dangerous bolting, given a french grade. An R might be useful. I can sense an argument brewing.
OP Knut R. 19 Aug 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

The most famous example would be something like the "Bachar Yerian" route in Tuolumne. It's bolts, drilled on lead, and there are very few bolts on a long route.

Graded 11c (R).
OP Knut R. 19 Aug 2016
In reply to galpinos:

Yes. Yes they do.
 JR 19 Aug 2016
In reply to zimpara:

8b+ R tells you more than E10 7a does.
 Bulls Crack 19 Aug 2016
In reply to JR:

or it tells you it in a different way
8
 JR 19 Aug 2016
In reply to Bulls Crack:

E10 7a is like aiming for the dart board
8b+ R is like aiming for the bulls eye

In both, you're aiming for the dart board, in one, you've accurately described the difficulty of hitting the target.
Post edited at 23:37
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 Andy Farnell 20 Aug 2016
In reply to JR:

> 8b+ R tells you more than E10 7a does.

But not as much as E10 7a (8b+).

Andy F
1
 JR 20 Aug 2016
In reply to andy farnell:

> But not as much as E10 7a (8b+).

And maybe not as much as E10 8b+ R
Post edited at 08:57
In reply to JR:

maybe add a font grade if there's a crux and a Yorkshire Grit guide "P rating" for chance of being paralysed by the landing.
 Robert Durran 20 Aug 2016
In reply to JR:

> And maybe not as much as E10 8b+ R

And maybe not as much as E10 7a 8b+ R

The more components, the more information (as long as the YDS is steered well clear of.......)
 JR 20 Aug 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

Quite. 8b+ R is plenty.
 Fraser 20 Aug 2016
In reply to JR:

Only 4 letters are required: h a r d
 zimpara 20 Aug 2016
In reply to Fraser:

Only 4 letters are required t a k e
1
 Andy Farnell 20 Aug 2016
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

> maybe add a font grade if there's a crux and a Yorkshire Grit guide "P rating" for chance of being paralysed by the landing.

Actually, give a V grade and Font grade for the crux, incase people can't translate. Then give it Northumberland VS.

Andy F
 stp 21 Aug 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I suspect some of the old Edlinger routes might warrant an R rating. Sometimes described in French guides as expose.
OP Knut R. 22 Aug 2016
In reply to shouldbebetter:

Adding to his list, he just onsighted a multi-pitch 8b on Mt. Louis. "The Shining" was originally put up by Trotter and Caldwell, and is pretty close to dead vert, and well technical. Impressive onsight for certain.
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