UKC

I'm in the tian shan mountains in a few years climbing khan tengri and was looking into the possibility of climbing a previously unclimbed peak.. Any ideas or help/info on what's unclimbed within a days trek from khan tengri would be appreciated.

In reply to Pj84:

http://kac.centralasia.kg/mountaineering-regions-of-kyrgyzstan/

This is a link to a guidebook for that area.

Searching for 'Kyrgyz Alpine Club' should enable you to start a search for suitable objectives and/or give you contacts for relvant information.

There have been many trips from Britain to that area so contacting the BMC might be productive.

In reply to Pj84:

Hi Adam,

Last summer, three friends and I did exactly this. We flew into Khan Tengri base camp on the North Inylchek glacier, and from there trekked about 10km down the glacier (to the West), where we set up a camp. There are a number of unclimbed peaks there, we climbed Peak 5023m on the southern side of the glacier. If you're interested here's a video: youtube.com/watch?v=pywFt321Ut4&

There were a number of unclimbed peaks of similar height on the north side which looked potentially climbable, but we ran out of time to do these, so they could be good objectives for you. Razor Peak at the very bottom end of the glacier is also unclimbed, but would take a few days to walk to from the base camp.

Hope that's of some use,
Cameron

In reply to Pj84:

Just back from a month long expedition to the Kaindy glacier in the Tien Shan (just south of the Inylchek/Engilchek glaciers). Would be more than a day treking from anywhere on a Khan Tengri schedule though. We climbed a few new peaks and explored some new glaciers. Had good weather but not particularly good snow conditions.

We arranged our transport through the ITMC. This involved a minibus to Karakol, Gaz66 to the Maydaadyr air base, flying in to our basecamp on a Mil-8 helicopter and back.

Will be posting the trip report as soon as I write it.