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French Style Harness Personal Anchor

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GarethZA 23 Aug 2016
Just been climbing in France and I rather like their dynamic anchor setup made from a piece of dynamic rope. Does anyone know how to tie one with places for two carabiners? Can't seem to find any info online and obviously don't want to stuff it up.

( Its like this except with two crab instead of one - https://www.mountainproject.com/images/78/25/107277825_large_3ab67f.jpg )


Cheers

1
 danm 23 Aug 2016
In reply to GarethZA:
Take a length of dynamic rope, and tie whatever termination knots you prefer to use on the ends. Then thread one end through the usual tie-in point on your harness. Align ropes so parallel then tie both together in a figure of 8. You should now have a 2 arm lanyard securely tied into your harness. You can fine tune the lengths to suit.

The knots are a bit bulky and prone to wear, if you're going to use the lanyard a lot or on longer/harder routes then better off buying a purpose built one e.g http://www.beal-planet.com/en/35-longes
Post edited at 17:12
 jkarran 23 Aug 2016
In reply to GarethZA:
For permanent attachment I'd tie a length of rope into the harness with a rethreaded 8 or overhand so you have 2 tails. Attach krabs to the tails with barrel knots and trim the remaining tails for neatness. Clean, simple, pointless IMO.

To make them removable don't tie the cord to the harness, use a locking krab, clove hitch the cord midpoint into it.

Jk
Post edited at 17:16
 SenzuBean 23 Aug 2016
In reply to GarethZA:

> ( Its like this except with two crab instead of one - https://www.mountainproject.com/images/78/25/107277825_large_3ab67f.jpg )

To add a second attachment point, you can tie exactly what you have in your photo, but allow enough rope to tie a small alpine butterfly in the centre of the rope - and then clip into that. Also you can use a barrel knot to attach the carabiner, so that it's held in place and is easier to clip.

 JamesSA 02 Sep 2016
In reply to GarethZA:

I tried one last summer in the Alps and found it really useful for multipitch sport routes. Figure of 8 knots seem to be the way the French tie them. This video has a really good analysis, and the strength testing is pretty sobering. If ENSA recommend something, it's good enough for me!...

youtube.com/watch?v=DpWKrghSLao&
 99ster 02 Sep 2016
In reply to GarethZA:

> Just been climbing in France and I rather like their dynamic anchor setup made from a piece of dynamic rope. Does anyone know how to tie one with places for two carabiners? Can't seem to find any info online and obviously don't want to stuff it up.

> ( Its like this except with two crab instead of one - https://www.mountainproject.com/images/78/25/107277825_large_3ab67f.jpg )


Petzl make exactly what you want - it's excellent. Called 'dual connect adjust' lanyard:
https://www.petzl.com/GB/en/Sport/Lanyards/DUAL-CONNECT-ADJUST


 Morgan Woods 02 Sep 2016
In reply to JamesSA:

Thanks for posting.
 EdS 02 Sep 2016
In reply to GarethZA:

just look up caving cows tails.

And you want barrel knots on the ends
 Jim 1003 02 Sep 2016
In reply to GarethZA:

Decathlon have them for about £8....

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