UKC

We're heading to Ailefroide very soon after a break of almost 10 years. I'm quite excited but think I may have forgotten how to climb granite slabs! Anyway, I have a few logistics questions which I hope the great UKC collective and maybe Martin H of this parish (if he is around) can help me with.

I seem to recall the last time I went that we took a set of half ropes for multi pitch but that a long'ish single rope came in handy for the single pitch stuff. The pamphlet style guide of 2007 vintage in my possession suggests that the longest single pitch stuff is around 35m so a 70m lightweight single rope should do the job for the longer single pitch stuff. Have things moved on at all to the extent that an 80m rope would be useful?

By the way, I don't really want to buy a 100m single to cover all bases as I have numerous sub-100m ropes already and I like the halves for long routes. For all that this might make sense....

If we decide that we need a break from slabs, is there is any good steeper sports climbing not far away? I think the answer to this is probably yes but would appreciate any guidance as to where and which guide is best.

Slab climbing heaven and alpine meadows here we come!

Cheers

Jon

In reply to Skyfall:

Bump..

In reply to Skyfall:


We are out at the moment. There has been a lot of limestone sport development in the area in the last 10 years well covered by the recent guides which also covers the granite climbing at Ailefroide.

We have the previous edition (Escalade Haut Val Durance Queyras) but that has been updated and is now called "Briancon Climbs" available at BMC store: http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=6592

Both guides have French and English text

In reply to Skyfall:

Hi Jon,
From my recent visits I would say although there may be new routes, the route lengths have stayed similar. I climbed all multi-pitch stuff on 60m halves (which were more than enough, all abs seemed to be for 50m halves or 100m single (the guides choice). I single pitched on a 70m rope, but from memory the single pitch stuff wasn't that long.

There are a lot of good crags if you go down the valley including a good variety of rock types, I have this guide http://www.montagne-librairie.com/Escalade-en-Brianconnais-Haut-Val-Durance... which is good, but there seems to be a new version http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/Briancon-Climbs-Guidebook.html so perhaps try and get that one, I am sure one of the many local climbing shops will have a copy. If similar it was pretty good in giving an indication of rock/crag quality. Hope you have a good trip, if a little cooler, the bouldering around Ailefroide is also steep (and very good).

In reply to ukb shark:
Thanks to you and Sidewinder - v helpful. I will see if I can get hold of a copy of the guide quickly but, if not, I assume I can get it at the local gear shop over there.

In reply to Skyfall:



There are a few adventure sports shops in Vallouise. You should be able to buy a copy there.

In reply to ukb shark:

Is the gear shop still open in Ailefroide? I seem to recall it was very good.

I've actually managed to source a copy of the guide from climb europe who happen to be based just up the road from me but i will no doubt be spending my tourist dollars in the local gearshops...

In reply to Skyfall:


I don't know. We aren't based up there

In reply to Skyfall:

You can buy the guidebooks in Ailefroide.
2 x 60m half ropes and a 70m single is all you will need.
The slabs are slightly steeper than they were 10 years ago!

In reply to Martin Haworth:


That's what I was worrying about !

In reply to Skyfall:

We enjoyed some fantastic climbing in the L'Argentiere la Besse / Vallouise area earlier this year. There are crags at all altitudes and orientations to suit the conditions. Among our favourites for steeper single-pitch sport climbing were Les Traverses et la Vignette, Le Canyon (Le Rif d'Oriol) and No match for crag id:21167.

We also liked the shady conglomerate climbing at Mont Dauphin, though it would be quite a long drive from Ailefroide.

Like others have posted, the slabs at Ailefroide felt much harder than they did in our youth ... too much climbing on steep limestone ruins your slab technique!

In reply to Skyfall:

Hi

I live 20 mins from Ailefroide, as many have pointed out the briancon climbs is the new guidebook and covers all the sports climbing in the area, there are a few venues/routes where a 80m rope would be of use check in the book or some say at the bottom if they are very long, but you can get by on most with a 70, at some of the venues they have added half way lower so you can do a shorter route or use it as a second lower with a shorter rope.

I am always happy to help people with info about venues etc if people would like it, feel free to drop me a line rob@dream-trails.com

Cheers

In reply to Skyfall:

One 70 m rope is all you need unless your doing some of newer really desperate routes where an 80 is needed.

Really appreciate the responses today at short notice. Thanks all.