UKC

Dungeon of Buchan

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 Hay 01 Sep 2016
What is the access situation for this crag?
Lowland describes a 1.5hr bike - is that actually do-able? Is there not some sort of Tolkeinesque swamp to navigate?
Seems it'll need to be an in and out venue these days ... always thought I'd use the bothy but it seems to be a disaster area now.

Climbing looks great from the pics on here.

Bruce
 climb41 01 Sep 2016
In reply to Hay:

Hi Hay, can't help much, but you have jogged my memory. Did Traitors Gate in 2011. It was a long walk in, on a very very hot day! I got a nasty blister walking in, which I then squeezed into my rock shoes! The walk out was hard, as we had run out of water. Thankfully there was a huge water container in the boot of my car which I was taking to the campsite we were staying on, so we glugged gratefully from that when we got back.

Climbing was great. I reckon you can cycle in a fair way, but defo a bit of walk over the boggy bit. Worth a visit, always, to a not frequented crag....

 climb41 01 Sep 2016
In reply to Hay:

Btw, did it with Jonka, who used to be on here......anyone know where he is? Ta.
In reply to Hay:

It's as per the Lowland's Outcrops guide except that the walk in is slightly easier due to a short new forestry track. Drive along the single track lane just west of Clatteringshaws dam to Craigencallie and park. Bike along forest track taking first right over the Dee then left, keeping left on the main track until just shy of the Backhill of Bush bothy. Turn left onto the old track and left again and follow this short new track almost to the edge of the Silverflowe (a floating bog). Hide your bikes, cross the Cooran Lane (a burn) and walk to an obvious lone rock. The crag lies slightly right of straight ahead but it is better to make a wide arc to the left (south) to avoid a bewildering maze of pools that you can't see until you are up on the crag. After turning the pools on their left, a few more isolated rocks will be seen and when these are reached, the Long Loch of the Dungeon. Turn right (north) before this until you encounter a path (or paths) and follow it/them to steep scree and so the crag. If you are young and fit it takes 1.5 hrs. Take a double rack of cams up to Friend 3.5 size. Boots and walking poles are recommended for the approach.

I've always thought that a good alternative if you've a few days to spare and a good forecast would be to take a tent etc and park in Glen Trool and walk up to Loch Neldricken at the north end of which is a lovely sandy beach to camp on. From here you could spend a day at the Dungeon (1hr), a day at the Point of the Snibe (1hr) and a day at Memorial Crag (30 mins). The latter two aren't in the guide but full descriptions are available here:

http://www.needlesports.com/content/craignaw.aspx
OP Hay 02 Sep 2016
In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:
Thanks, that's much appreciated.
Bruce
 Jim 1003 02 Sep 2016
In reply to Hay:

Great place to go if you like dreadful walk ins and poor climbing compared to the many good mountain crags on offer which are much easier to access....
3
In reply to Jim 1003:

I can only say I totally disagree, but it obviously depends what sort of climbing you like. The granite is clean and solid on the whole, the protection excellent, the setting magnificent. Many of the climbs call for a lot of jamming so if this isn't one of your greatest accomplishments you may struggle with the grades a bit. The Dungeon is the biggest inland crag of worth in southern Scotland and has four pitch routes with terraces in between, but these don't really detract much from the climbing in my view. The descent is a doddle. It also has some very good single pitch climbs. It's a wild and remote spot and you are likely to have the crag to yourselves even on a weekend, but the downside is that you're on your own pretty much if you have an accident, or at least you will be for a considerable time.

I notice you list your main activity as sport climbing - sport climbing it definitely ain't. But if you love getting off the beaten track in remote wilderness then there's something special about the Dungeon.

The other crags I mentioned are also very good. Memorial Crag is set right on the summit of Craignaw with fabulous views of the Merrick and the Awful Hand. It's best described as a sort of granite Reecastle, short but steep with some brilliant routes. The Snibe is mainly single pitch stuff too, though there are good two pitch routes as well. It faces due south and dries quickly and is notable for have a considerable number of lower grade climbs which is not so common in Galloway, but also has plenty for the harder climber including the magnificent Beltie.
 CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2016
In reply to Hay:

not been but I've heard its pretty midgie
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Ah, where isn't in Scotland this time of year? However, if the windspeed forecast in New Galloway is 10mph plus then you should be OK, but in addition to a double rack of cams, wellies and walking poles, a midge net and industrial quantities of Smidge will always be part of any self-respecting Galloway climber's rack!
 Dave Ferguson 02 Sep 2016
In reply to Hay:
well worth a visit, went for the first time in May, yes its a bit of a long approach but no more than 2 hours in total with the bike and walk in. The bog is fine with walking boots. It gets the sun for most of the day if you start early. Here's a link to some pictures of our jaunt. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.1086761114700519&type=3
Post edited at 23:01
 k.shark 03 Sep 2016
In reply to Hay:

I was up at Neldricken yesterday midges were not bad even when breeze stopped it was wet underfoot and ferns are high just now . I was not as wet as forecast you could see crags above drying out . Backhill of Bush both is in better condition than it has been in years , I had a good couple of nights in it as a base to climb on Dungeon earlier on this year (march/april) there is a path from both to edge of silver flow then a path goes up to the right and crosses above both loch it is fairly dry boots suffice . I have cycled in (long time ago) it is ok . I usually park car at bothy as I have a key for forestry gates ( I know a man who works there ) . Well worth a visit some really nice routes .
In reply to Dave Ferguson:

Climbing in a team of three and doing four route, two of them four pitches, that was one hell of a good day! I particularly liked the wells at the bothy!
 Jim 1003 03 Sep 2016
In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:

Not convinced.....but good try...
2
In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:

wells damned spelling correction, wellies of course!
In reply to Jim 1003:

What have you climbed there that was so awful?
 jonnie3430 04 Sep 2016
In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:

I found it loose, overgrown and dirty enough to question the stars for quite a few routes.
 k.shark 04 Sep 2016
In reply to jonnie3430:

I like to climb there early on in the year when the vegetation is not as bad, don't usually have much bother with loose stuff . It is not everyones taste but on a blue bird day its pretty good .
1
In reply to jonnie3430:
Ah yes, I can see you are referring to Scots' Wha Hae in particular, and in view of your comments on the logbooks I went and repeated the route in 2011. The blocks rattle it is true but I spent some time trying to remove them prior to the first ascent and they seem well jammed. Even with the aid of an ice axe I could't get them out. A bit of bilberry also, but only low down and easily pulled out in passing if it was in your way - the lower bit is easy anyway, and overall the route seemed very good albeit tough for HVS. This starring and grading routes for a guide is very tricky and so much depends on the type of climbing one enjoys. Personally I like jamming cracks and am happy jamming so I may tend to overstar hand cracks compared with what people who don't like jamming might give them. It's notable that on UKC, there are 4 votes for 2 stars, one for one star and one dustbin (yours I take it!). And also that the consensus is that it is hard HVS. So what grade and stars does it deserve? Do you go with the majority? That's what I'd do - although that would also include people who don't bother logging stuff on UKC. Nearer the time for the next guide I'll have another look at UKC and take into account what people have voted for in terms of grade and stars on the routes - but it's always going to be subjective.
Post edited at 18:30
 Dave Ferguson 05 Sep 2016
In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:

I agree, I thought Scots' Wha Hae a good route, yes the block moves but the route is very solid otherwise and can hardly be described as inherently loose. Yes the grade is a bit stiff but probably fair, its very safe. I'm not a fan of stars, if the routes good just say so in the description but I thought all the routes we did were of good quality and we had a really good day out. I also don't take too much notice of UKC log book voting. Like all voting those who have a strong opinion either way will vote, the vast majority who are ambivalent won't bother. I think its a great crag and I applaud Stephen and friends for developing and publicising it. I'll certainly be going back.
 Lloydfletch 05 Sep 2016
In reply to Dave Ferguson:

I've not been yet, but those photos were certainly an extra motivation to go!
 Simon Caldwell 06 Sep 2016
In reply to Dave Ferguson:

> Like all voting those who have a strong opinion either way will vote, the vast majority who are ambivalent won't bother.

That's true however you gauge opinions. UKC voting is no worse an indicator than the guidebook author asking his friends

Anyway, regardless of all that, this thread has boosted the Galloway crags up to the top of my "must visit" list
In reply to Lloydfletch:

I've put a few more photos of the area on here now: http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=74003

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