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Morning FitClubbers!
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=648680
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week's posters:
Si dH - Massive congratulations! Have a well deserved rest!
Mrchewy - Wow, sounds like there is some repair work to be done on your muscle balance!
Emily - Nice varied week, well done on the 6b flash.
AJM - Good week, even if you can’t remember it! Really blasting through those trad routes.
Nick Russell - Excellent set of ticks, hope there is good climbing wherever you are this week.
D1 - A job doesn’t have to mean the end of climbing, just keep yourself motivated and join the rest of us weekend warriors!
Biscuit - Some good sessions there, sounds like you are training hard, are you training for any specific routes/holidays?
Hms - I’ve been on RHM but it was so long ago I have zero beta for you! It’s good but sharp!
Leeboy1985 - Well done getting the photo published, do you have a link?
Ally Smith - Good news on back improvement, are you going to give your August goals another month?
Dandan - I think bricklaying might be antagonist…
Tyler - Good luck with the house move, ideal time to take a back seat on the climbing and fix the niggles?
Ian Bell - “A bit of yoga / ab exercise / surfing but basically very little for almost 2 weeks” you poor thing!
Curious Yellow - I assume this wasn’t the rest week…?! Road rage is fab isn’t it?
Bobling - Surprised you could get a climbing shoe on with a broken toe! Loving the injury report.
SteveM - Liking the traffic light system, things are looking promising.
Hokkyokusei - Off-road marathon? Yikes!
Just Tintin - I take it this is a Lattice training plan? Sounds very similar to mine so far.
Heelhookofglory - Well done on the skiing, thats quite some improvement
JayK - Sound like the training plans I make for myself, always heavily weighted one way or another!
*FitClub 500 Goals*
It’s the 500th FitClub on the 16th of October and Tyler suggested coming up with a goal to achieve by then, possibly something you don’t usually do, or a goal aimed at a weakness of yours. Feel free to suggest your own goals or goals for other people based on what you know about them, anyone who completes their goal will be rewarded with a huge sense of self-satisfaction and a cheque for £2000.*
Tyler: Physio every day for a week with perfect form/ touch your toes
hms - do some steep bouldering with dynamic moves/get back on RHM
AJM - Get on 2x E5/ tick Cider Soak/ dog to top a Montserrat 8a+
Si dH - Do some offwidths/ boulder 7C
Ally Smith - do ToTG, do some deadlifts/bench bodyweight, cycle to work everyday for a week,
Luke Owens - do a 10 sessions of low end aero-cap before week 500
Dandan - Climb >7b slabby/technical/arete (struggling to find one local)
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=648680
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week's posters:
Si dH - Massive congratulations! Have a well deserved rest!
Mrchewy - Wow, sounds like there is some repair work to be done on your muscle balance!
Emily - Nice varied week, well done on the 6b flash.
AJM - Good week, even if you can’t remember it! Really blasting through those trad routes.
Nick Russell - Excellent set of ticks, hope there is good climbing wherever you are this week.
D1 - A job doesn’t have to mean the end of climbing, just keep yourself motivated and join the rest of us weekend warriors!
Biscuit - Some good sessions there, sounds like you are training hard, are you training for any specific routes/holidays?
Hms - I’ve been on RHM but it was so long ago I have zero beta for you! It’s good but sharp!
Leeboy1985 - Well done getting the photo published, do you have a link?
Ally Smith - Good news on back improvement, are you going to give your August goals another month?
Dandan - I think bricklaying might be antagonist…
Tyler - Good luck with the house move, ideal time to take a back seat on the climbing and fix the niggles?
Ian Bell - “A bit of yoga / ab exercise / surfing but basically very little for almost 2 weeks” you poor thing!
Curious Yellow - I assume this wasn’t the rest week…?! Road rage is fab isn’t it?
Bobling - Surprised you could get a climbing shoe on with a broken toe! Loving the injury report.
SteveM - Liking the traffic light system, things are looking promising.
Hokkyokusei - Off-road marathon? Yikes!
Just Tintin - I take it this is a Lattice training plan? Sounds very similar to mine so far.
Heelhookofglory - Well done on the skiing, thats quite some improvement
JayK - Sound like the training plans I make for myself, always heavily weighted one way or another!
*FitClub 500 Goals*
It’s the 500th FitClub on the 16th of October and Tyler suggested coming up with a goal to achieve by then, possibly something you don’t usually do, or a goal aimed at a weakness of yours. Feel free to suggest your own goals or goals for other people based on what you know about them, anyone who completes their goal will be rewarded with a huge sense of self-satisfaction and a cheque for £2000.*
Tyler: Physio every day for a week with perfect form/ touch your toes
hms - do some steep bouldering with dynamic moves/get back on RHM
AJM - Get on 2x E5/ tick Cider Soak/ dog to top a Montserrat 8a+
Si dH - Do some offwidths/ boulder 7C
Ally Smith - do ToTG, do some deadlifts/bench bodyweight, cycle to work everyday for a week,
Luke Owens - do a 10 sessions of low end aero-cap before week 500
Dandan - Climb >7b slabby/technical/arete (struggling to find one local)
1
In reply to Dandan:
M- 8 mile run after some pottering around on the easy but fun sport routes at Empire Crag.
T-Rest
W-Parisellas. Wasn't feeling it but warmed up and then ended up having a good session. Repeated Cave Life short and then tried Cave Life Short High. Managed to get to the crux of LWH 3 times (a hand/foot move further each time) before sending it 4th go. Looking good for the Hatch Life High winter (might end up being autumn) project. Not bad going for a boulderer right?
T-Intervals with long WU/WD. Finger board session.
F-Rest
S-Parkrun (19:00). My week 2 target was 19:50 (19 flat was week 7) so I guess I better change the goals a little. 18:30 for week 7?
S-4mile off-road run.
Back to school tomorrow.
M- 8 mile run after some pottering around on the easy but fun sport routes at Empire Crag.
T-Rest
W-Parisellas. Wasn't feeling it but warmed up and then ended up having a good session. Repeated Cave Life short and then tried Cave Life Short High. Managed to get to the crux of LWH 3 times (a hand/foot move further each time) before sending it 4th go. Looking good for the Hatch Life High winter (might end up being autumn) project. Not bad going for a boulderer right?
T-Intervals with long WU/WD. Finger board session.
F-Rest
S-Parkrun (19:00). My week 2 target was 19:50 (19 flat was week 7) so I guess I better change the goals a little. 18:30 for week 7?
S-4mile off-road run.
Back to school tomorrow.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Not resting so much, but definitely been splurging/indulging this last week.
2016 goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night (generally kept to this pretty well over the year to date. During September it'll rise a bit as (a) I've got a big stag do and my brother's 30th to attend which will both involve copious booze, (b) we don't have a kitchen for 4-5 weeks so am having to live off ready meals and sandwiches for lunch. The plan is to keep training 'heavy' and then lose the weight again for bouldering season.)
- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B) (done)
- moffatrocity (f7B+) (done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
- Arch Enemies (7c+) (done)
- The Free Monster (8a) (done)
M: Did some core work in the morning, then a big max hang session in the evening. Re-baselined my max hang strength for 5s on each arm and then did a full session after that (4x 10 second hangs per arm on 3 hold types) following by a few extra two-armed hangs. On the face of it, my max hang baselines had improved quite a bit over the last month, but I'm not sure how accurate it is because I can't remember how strict I was previously about only allowing myself to count a success if I stayed in a full half crimp. By the end of the 5 seconds at these weights this time, I was definitely dropping in to a drag. Anyway, max hang benchmarks (5 seconds on 20mm edge) this time were bodyweight - 3 kg on right arm and bodyweight - 8 kg on left arm. Bodyweight (clothed) was 71.5kg. This is an improvement of 3.5 kg per arm. Weirdly, my left is just as strong as my right when dragging the better holds with fewer fingers, but notably weaker in a half crimp on the 20mm edge.
T: Core work in the morning.
W: Bouldering at the Climbing Unit in the evening (first time in a couple of months.) Just did 3-4 of the blue (V5-7) problems. Generally feeling statically strong but lacking power and explosiveness. More bouldering should hopefully sort this out.
T: Max hangs again. As per normal. For 10 second hangs, I'm now working with - 9 kg / 10.1 kg (RH/LH) on the 20mm edge (RH) and - 4.6 kg (either hand) on the good pocket with a front three drag. Third hold type was a two handed hang from the ceiling beam pinches with 14kg added to bodyweight.
F: Rest
S: Had a short morning session at Rubicon before the weather closed in. Repeated A Bigger Prize (f6C+) and A Bigger Splash Direct (f7B). Got spanked again by Kudos (f7B). It always tweaks my left elbow, so I need to stop trying!
S: Recovery from drinking and eating way too much the night before. My body doesn't do alcohol any more! Have also done some shoulder rehab work.
Injury catalogue: shoulder hasn't been brilliant again this week. Fingers all seemed ok.
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 3lb.
Si
P.S. I'll take the offwidth-related objective on the chin and try to do one at some point this year! However it might need to be after the 500th fit club unless the weather cools down a bit.
P.P.S. thanks to those of you who contributed to my other thread about specific core weakness too. I haven't fully concluded anything from it yet, but I'm going to aim to do some hanging leg raises and windscreen wipers, plus try to do some technique practice on that sort of move at the wall.
Cheers Dan. Not resting so much, but definitely been splurging/indulging this last week.
2016 goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night (generally kept to this pretty well over the year to date. During September it'll rise a bit as (a) I've got a big stag do and my brother's 30th to attend which will both involve copious booze, (b) we don't have a kitchen for 4-5 weeks so am having to live off ready meals and sandwiches for lunch. The plan is to keep training 'heavy' and then lose the weight again for bouldering season.)
- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B) (done)
- moffatrocity (f7B+) (done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
- Arch Enemies (7c+) (done)
- The Free Monster (8a) (done)
M: Did some core work in the morning, then a big max hang session in the evening. Re-baselined my max hang strength for 5s on each arm and then did a full session after that (4x 10 second hangs per arm on 3 hold types) following by a few extra two-armed hangs. On the face of it, my max hang baselines had improved quite a bit over the last month, but I'm not sure how accurate it is because I can't remember how strict I was previously about only allowing myself to count a success if I stayed in a full half crimp. By the end of the 5 seconds at these weights this time, I was definitely dropping in to a drag. Anyway, max hang benchmarks (5 seconds on 20mm edge) this time were bodyweight - 3 kg on right arm and bodyweight - 8 kg on left arm. Bodyweight (clothed) was 71.5kg. This is an improvement of 3.5 kg per arm. Weirdly, my left is just as strong as my right when dragging the better holds with fewer fingers, but notably weaker in a half crimp on the 20mm edge.
T: Core work in the morning.
W: Bouldering at the Climbing Unit in the evening (first time in a couple of months.) Just did 3-4 of the blue (V5-7) problems. Generally feeling statically strong but lacking power and explosiveness. More bouldering should hopefully sort this out.
T: Max hangs again. As per normal. For 10 second hangs, I'm now working with - 9 kg / 10.1 kg (RH/LH) on the 20mm edge (RH) and - 4.6 kg (either hand) on the good pocket with a front three drag. Third hold type was a two handed hang from the ceiling beam pinches with 14kg added to bodyweight.
F: Rest
S: Had a short morning session at Rubicon before the weather closed in. Repeated A Bigger Prize (f6C+) and A Bigger Splash Direct (f7B). Got spanked again by Kudos (f7B). It always tweaks my left elbow, so I need to stop trying!
S: Recovery from drinking and eating way too much the night before. My body doesn't do alcohol any more! Have also done some shoulder rehab work.
Injury catalogue: shoulder hasn't been brilliant again this week. Fingers all seemed ok.
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 3lb.
Si
P.S. I'll take the offwidth-related objective on the chin and try to do one at some point this year! However it might need to be after the 500th fit club unless the weather cools down a bit.
P.P.S. thanks to those of you who contributed to my other thread about specific core weakness too. I haven't fully concluded anything from it yet, but I'm going to aim to do some hanging leg raises and windscreen wipers, plus try to do some technique practice on that sort of move at the wall.
Post edited at 17:54
1
In reply to Si dH:
We hear you, an icy wind is best to numb the effect of all those grazes....
If I can source some large friends I'd be tempted to come with you
> PI'll take the offwidth-related objective on the chin and try to do one at some point this year! However it might need to be after the 500th fit club unless the weather cools down a bit
We hear you, an icy wind is best to numb the effect of all those grazes....
If I can source some large friends I'd be tempted to come with you
Post edited at 18:41
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. I'm still trying for The Bulge, but the weather is not playing ball. Still wet and I was nowhere near fit enough last time so i'm training and praying for it to dry off before 19th Sept when I start Uni.
OK week. Craig Y Longridge with The Fox on the Monday. First time there for years (it was all fields when I was a lad etc etc) and pleased to get a bit of the traverse sorted. My issue is I can remember the tricky bit but spent no time at all looking at the easy start. Turns out if you grab all the wrong holds and forget where the footholds are it becomes quite tricky. Happy that section would go next time if I work the easy bit. The hard bit felt easier?? Supposed to be 7b (+?) ish together so not bad for a first time back. Keen for more.
AnCap session at the wall and where I failed on rep 3 and 4 of the 3rd set last time I failed on rep 4 of the 4th set this time. All good.
This week I have the chance to train 4 times so will look at doing 2 aero pow and 2 an cap.
As for week 500 goal, i'll have a think. Techy slab head point would be my weakness. A visit to the peak may be in order.
Cheers Dan. I'm still trying for The Bulge, but the weather is not playing ball. Still wet and I was nowhere near fit enough last time so i'm training and praying for it to dry off before 19th Sept when I start Uni.
OK week. Craig Y Longridge with The Fox on the Monday. First time there for years (it was all fields when I was a lad etc etc) and pleased to get a bit of the traverse sorted. My issue is I can remember the tricky bit but spent no time at all looking at the easy start. Turns out if you grab all the wrong holds and forget where the footholds are it becomes quite tricky. Happy that section would go next time if I work the easy bit. The hard bit felt easier?? Supposed to be 7b (+?) ish together so not bad for a first time back. Keen for more.
AnCap session at the wall and where I failed on rep 3 and 4 of the 3rd set last time I failed on rep 4 of the 4th set this time. All good.
This week I have the chance to train 4 times so will look at doing 2 aero pow and 2 an cap.
As for week 500 goal, i'll have a think. Techy slab head point would be my weakness. A visit to the peak may be in order.
In reply to Si dH:
It wasn't so much technique I was meaning (though I suppose it is) just actively engaging different muscles each time you try a one leg cut loose. You may find you just haven't been recruiting some already strong muscles in that situation and you don't actually have a core weakness.
It wasn't so much technique I was meaning (though I suppose it is) just actively engaging different muscles each time you try a one leg cut loose. You may find you just haven't been recruiting some already strong muscles in that situation and you don't actually have a core weakness.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
- I did another Sufferfest this week, hard work but hopefully it will pay off. Should probably do 3 more in the next fortnight and maybe a test run out on the road too, then it's the day itself.
- I dug out 2 more stumps and I cut down the stump in the corner of the bed to ground level (right at the edge of the bed so figured I'd never get the roots out that are going under the path and not be able to get an angle to cut them). That leaves only 4 left now so hopefully get those cleared in the next few weeks whilst there's still light enough to do it after work (I don't want to have to sacrifice weekend days to it really). I also split the already-seasoned wood (what there is of it) left behind by the previous owner and also split a bunch of the logs I've been cutting to length so that they will dry a bit faster and so that they're a better size to eventually burn.
- I did 2 fingerboard sessions on the test edge. Well down on the scores I was getting post bishop on my own edge - combination of lack of recruitment compared with then and also a new smooth edge with a less defined lip than my one, which is probably a tiny bit smaller but with a better defined lip. Hope to see some progress over the next few weeks as I reckon that power endurance and recruitment are my best quick wins for Cider Soak.
- I went to UCR today with Hms and D1 and MrsAJM. A good session although I faded a bit sooner than I would have liked - perhaps tiredness, perhaps the indoor style and perhaps a lack of food. Either way, attempts on about 5 7s plus a load of 6s mileage both for warmups and installing ropes for MrsAJM. 7a and a 7b onsight, helen reckoned both were easy for the grade but I'm sure I'd probably only ever onsighted 7a max indoors before so either way I'm happy enough.
Tradding at Avon today just didn't seem like the right idea so probably unlikely to hit 2xE5 as many of following weekends are sport but determined to give Cider Soak full beans over the next 3 weekends - think I've got 4 days lined up on it in total which would take me to 7 total including the time I put in over the spring.
Weather looking good late this week so hopefully get outside after work one evening. Be good to get another tree stump out and I also need to do a foc benchmark test and hopefully another fingerboard session. Combined with some cycling and a weekend on rock that should mean a fairly decent week really...
> AJM - Get on 2x E5/ tick Cider Soak/ dog to top a Montserrat 8a+
Cheers Dan.
- I did another Sufferfest this week, hard work but hopefully it will pay off. Should probably do 3 more in the next fortnight and maybe a test run out on the road too, then it's the day itself.
- I dug out 2 more stumps and I cut down the stump in the corner of the bed to ground level (right at the edge of the bed so figured I'd never get the roots out that are going under the path and not be able to get an angle to cut them). That leaves only 4 left now so hopefully get those cleared in the next few weeks whilst there's still light enough to do it after work (I don't want to have to sacrifice weekend days to it really). I also split the already-seasoned wood (what there is of it) left behind by the previous owner and also split a bunch of the logs I've been cutting to length so that they will dry a bit faster and so that they're a better size to eventually burn.
- I did 2 fingerboard sessions on the test edge. Well down on the scores I was getting post bishop on my own edge - combination of lack of recruitment compared with then and also a new smooth edge with a less defined lip than my one, which is probably a tiny bit smaller but with a better defined lip. Hope to see some progress over the next few weeks as I reckon that power endurance and recruitment are my best quick wins for Cider Soak.
- I went to UCR today with Hms and D1 and MrsAJM. A good session although I faded a bit sooner than I would have liked - perhaps tiredness, perhaps the indoor style and perhaps a lack of food. Either way, attempts on about 5 7s plus a load of 6s mileage both for warmups and installing ropes for MrsAJM. 7a and a 7b onsight, helen reckoned both were easy for the grade but I'm sure I'd probably only ever onsighted 7a max indoors before so either way I'm happy enough.
Tradding at Avon today just didn't seem like the right idea so probably unlikely to hit 2xE5 as many of following weekends are sport but determined to give Cider Soak full beans over the next 3 weekends - think I've got 4 days lined up on it in total which would take me to 7 total including the time I put in over the spring.
Weather looking good late this week so hopefully get outside after work one evening. Be good to get another tree stump out and I also need to do a foc benchmark test and hopefully another fingerboard session. Combined with some cycling and a weekend on rock that should mean a fairly decent week really...
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan - physio has pushed on to strengthening now. happy times.
STG - Easy climbing once a week and start fingerboarding.
MTG - Spain for a couple of months, hopefully by xmas. Bouldering mostly.
LTG 7A
Mon - AM 1hr stretches and antags PM cycle 35min 11k/ boulder 2hrs/ cycle 35min 11k PM 1hr stretches and antags
Tue - AM 1hr stretches and antags PM Minimal stretches. Slightly achy from bouldering the day before.
Wed - AM 2hrs stretches and antags Cycle 8k 24min Offroad 13k 1hr PM Cycle 18.5k 1hr23min
Thu - AM 1hr stretches and antags
Fri - AM 1hr stretches and antags 1hr with physio (sore after) PM stretches
Sat - AM 1hr stretches and antags 12k 30min cycle
Sun - AM 1hr stretches and antags - Moat Buttress, pulled onto a 6c+ on a TR a couple of times.
Pleased with this week - saw the physio, she was chuffed with the flexibility progress but one vertabrae was still very stiff. 10 minutes later, it wasn't and I was sore! Tested my lats and nada, zilch, none. Strength that is or more precisely my ability to activate them in isolation. So exercises to do every other day for that, rotator cuff and core. Start properly on them tomorrow and see her again in four weeks. Feeling way better than just a month ago.
Cycled 75k total. Yesterday's ride a 15mph average, which felt pretty comfortable, so will try and get a longer ride in now the back's not so achy.
Climbing. Managed a session in the boulder room at Pinnacle. An Alex Fry set however, so shouldery and powerful - wasn't gonna go that well but felt good just to be trying. Pretty painful at times when trying to twist to reach behind myself, otherwise pretty pleased. Then today headed to Moat Buttress for the first time, nice crag. There was a few of us and I wasn't the only one lamenting lost skill and strength, Ruth Jenkins came out with us and had a climb for the first time in a while. Belayed Paul successfully on Coming up for Air - nice to see him progress this year and I seem to be a lucky charm of sorts manning the grigri. Had two goes at Afloat in the Moat, not much success but the middle two on the right hand had a good workout. As expected felt weak, heavy and rigid but proper tried, so happy. It'll be easier next time.
Best bit of the week? Waking up this morning with no pain in the thoracic spine - that's the first time since April.
Thanks Dan - physio has pushed on to strengthening now. happy times.
STG - Easy climbing once a week and start fingerboarding.
MTG - Spain for a couple of months, hopefully by xmas. Bouldering mostly.
LTG 7A
Mon - AM 1hr stretches and antags PM cycle 35min 11k/ boulder 2hrs/ cycle 35min 11k PM 1hr stretches and antags
Tue - AM 1hr stretches and antags PM Minimal stretches. Slightly achy from bouldering the day before.
Wed - AM 2hrs stretches and antags Cycle 8k 24min Offroad 13k 1hr PM Cycle 18.5k 1hr23min
Thu - AM 1hr stretches and antags
Fri - AM 1hr stretches and antags 1hr with physio (sore after) PM stretches
Sat - AM 1hr stretches and antags 12k 30min cycle
Sun - AM 1hr stretches and antags - Moat Buttress, pulled onto a 6c+ on a TR a couple of times.
Pleased with this week - saw the physio, she was chuffed with the flexibility progress but one vertabrae was still very stiff. 10 minutes later, it wasn't and I was sore! Tested my lats and nada, zilch, none. Strength that is or more precisely my ability to activate them in isolation. So exercises to do every other day for that, rotator cuff and core. Start properly on them tomorrow and see her again in four weeks. Feeling way better than just a month ago.
Cycled 75k total. Yesterday's ride a 15mph average, which felt pretty comfortable, so will try and get a longer ride in now the back's not so achy.
Climbing. Managed a session in the boulder room at Pinnacle. An Alex Fry set however, so shouldery and powerful - wasn't gonna go that well but felt good just to be trying. Pretty painful at times when trying to twist to reach behind myself, otherwise pretty pleased. Then today headed to Moat Buttress for the first time, nice crag. There was a few of us and I wasn't the only one lamenting lost skill and strength, Ruth Jenkins came out with us and had a climb for the first time in a while. Belayed Paul successfully on Coming up for Air - nice to see him progress this year and I seem to be a lucky charm of sorts manning the grigri. Had two goes at Afloat in the Moat, not much success but the middle two on the right hand had a good workout. As expected felt weak, heavy and rigid but proper tried, so happy. It'll be easier next time.
Best bit of the week? Waking up this morning with no pain in the thoracic spine - that's the first time since April.
In reply to biscuit:
Understood, that's exactly what I meant
> It wasn't so much technique I was meaning (though I suppose it is) just actively engaging different muscles each time you try a one leg cut loose. You may find you just haven't been recruiting some already strong muscles in that situation and you don't actually have a core weakness.
Understood, that's exactly what I meant
1
In reply to Dandan:
The traffic light scoring is definitely helping to define progress. Looking back at the past few weeks;
R A G
0 1 12 Week 494, including 4 x HVS!!!
0 3 10 Week 493
0 2 6 Week 492
0 1 3 Week 491
1 2 0 Week 490
1 2 4 Week 489
STG (end of Sept)
Get on at least one HVS per trad session (2 out of 4)
Base training for Abbey Dash 10K in October (2 runs, lots of steps)
Bike commuting at least once a week (no)
SkiFit once a week, includes core work (no)
MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule
LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again
BHAG
Big wall solo
Last week was
Mon Trad at Millstone, 1 x VS + 2 x HVS
Tue Trad at Simon's Seat, 2 x VS including one described as "bold". Plus 1h evening trail run up the chevin, first time I've run the whole of the steps without stopping/walking for a while.
Wed Nothing, out for dinner in evening
Thu Nothing again, full day at work and finished late - missed a mint evening at the cliff
Fri Lunchtime run 30m, on road with 6 sets of steps along Abbey Road. Trad at Almscliff after work, an hour of soloing to warm up then led VS and couldn’t follow E4.
Sat DIY and Depot, warmed up on blues then did most blacks and 3 or 4 purples
Sun Trad in the Peak; Stanage was minging so we bailed to Rivelin; highlights were 2 more HVS and 2 bold leads!
Progress!!! Can't believe I'm already getting back on HVS described as "bold"!
The traffic light scoring is definitely helping to define progress. Looking back at the past few weeks;
R A G
0 1 12 Week 494, including 4 x HVS!!!
0 3 10 Week 493
0 2 6 Week 492
0 1 3 Week 491
1 2 0 Week 490
1 2 4 Week 489
STG (end of Sept)
Get on at least one HVS per trad session (2 out of 4)
Base training for Abbey Dash 10K in October (2 runs, lots of steps)
Bike commuting at least once a week (no)
SkiFit once a week, includes core work (no)
MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule
LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again
BHAG
Big wall solo
Last week was
Mon Trad at Millstone, 1 x VS + 2 x HVS
Tue Trad at Simon's Seat, 2 x VS including one described as "bold". Plus 1h evening trail run up the chevin, first time I've run the whole of the steps without stopping/walking for a while.
Wed Nothing, out for dinner in evening
Thu Nothing again, full day at work and finished late - missed a mint evening at the cliff
Fri Lunchtime run 30m, on road with 6 sets of steps along Abbey Road. Trad at Almscliff after work, an hour of soloing to warm up then led VS and couldn’t follow E4.
Sat DIY and Depot, warmed up on blues then did most blacks and 3 or 4 purples
Sun Trad in the Peak; Stanage was minging so we bailed to Rivelin; highlights were 2 more HVS and 2 bold leads!
Progress!!! Can't believe I'm already getting back on HVS described as "bold"!
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan - my ack is functional again, but not 100% and needs some "pre-hab" work - the deadlifts might fit in nicely - Mr Foxes patented fire hydrant poses first though.
Q3 functional goals:
- Benchmark finger strength % - Done. Now aiming for 2% point increase
- Benchmark an-cap – Done. Now aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
- Aim to increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions.
September route goals: (same as August)
#1 - Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
Clean and do Gorge projects:
#2 - Devil’s Haircut extension; bouldery f8a+?
#3 - Link-up heaven; stamina f8b?
#4 - Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, easy f8b?
#5 - Clean new section and try all the moves on the Kilnsey project (probably a 2017 RP aim now)
Week 36:
M - Shoulders felt heavily worked (but not broken ) from previous 2 days climbing. Wintour’s Leap. King Kong - Classic E1 jamming corner with no cams bigger than a 2.5 and only a single Rock 9 was a faff but type 1 fun none the less. 7b+ thin slab RP for further entertainment.
T - Rest. Stretching – can get head to the floor convincingly in a hurdlers pose now
W - Devil’s gorge. Despite getting there 30min earlier than last week, daylight was in short supply! Dogged to get draws in, including good link of boulder problem headwall, but felt knackered from weekend exertions with sore shoulders. RP#1 rested at lowest jugs and then climbed quick (skipping undercut clip) into rest. Held sidepull, but heel rolled off. RP#2 got through to Canyonlands for the first time, but took ages settling my hand into good slot and had no oomph for the big rockover to the top of the crag. Massive progress, but disappointed not to seal the deal.
T - Rest - work meal gluttony
F - Fingerboard – progress on all grips and PBs on quite a few. +48kg on the 20mm edge. Confident I’ll hit my goals on all grips by the end of the 8 week fingerboard plan. Aero-power: 6x 120s on / 75s off FoC. Failed at ~105s in sets 5 & 6.
S - Awoke to bad news, so walking around a grey & very damp Coniston seemed appropriate for the sombre mood. Sending virtual hugs to those more directly affected than me.
S - Sunnier. Very lazy start due to wine and profiterole gluttony the night before. 8km afternoon walk up and down a steep sided hill.
Like AJM i'm getting closer to being up to date on the bloggage. This week's effort was reasonably quick to write, but the next couple require some video editing:
http://allysmithblog.blogspot.com/2016/09/a-blog-week-until-im-up-to-date-p...
Cheers Dan - my ack is functional again, but not 100% and needs some "pre-hab" work - the deadlifts might fit in nicely - Mr Foxes patented fire hydrant poses first though.
Q3 functional goals:
- Benchmark finger strength % - Done. Now aiming for 2% point increase
- Benchmark an-cap – Done. Now aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
- Aim to increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions.
September route goals: (same as August)
#1 - Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
Clean and do Gorge projects:
#2 - Devil’s Haircut extension; bouldery f8a+?
#3 - Link-up heaven; stamina f8b?
#4 - Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, easy f8b?
#5 - Clean new section and try all the moves on the Kilnsey project (probably a 2017 RP aim now)
Week 36:
M - Shoulders felt heavily worked (but not broken ) from previous 2 days climbing. Wintour’s Leap. King Kong - Classic E1 jamming corner with no cams bigger than a 2.5 and only a single Rock 9 was a faff but type 1 fun none the less. 7b+ thin slab RP for further entertainment.
T - Rest. Stretching – can get head to the floor convincingly in a hurdlers pose now
W - Devil’s gorge. Despite getting there 30min earlier than last week, daylight was in short supply! Dogged to get draws in, including good link of boulder problem headwall, but felt knackered from weekend exertions with sore shoulders. RP#1 rested at lowest jugs and then climbed quick (skipping undercut clip) into rest. Held sidepull, but heel rolled off. RP#2 got through to Canyonlands for the first time, but took ages settling my hand into good slot and had no oomph for the big rockover to the top of the crag. Massive progress, but disappointed not to seal the deal.
T - Rest - work meal gluttony
F - Fingerboard – progress on all grips and PBs on quite a few. +48kg on the 20mm edge. Confident I’ll hit my goals on all grips by the end of the 8 week fingerboard plan. Aero-power: 6x 120s on / 75s off FoC. Failed at ~105s in sets 5 & 6.
S - Awoke to bad news, so walking around a grey & very damp Coniston seemed appropriate for the sombre mood. Sending virtual hugs to those more directly affected than me.
S - Sunnier. Very lazy start due to wine and profiterole gluttony the night before. 8km afternoon walk up and down a steep sided hill.
Like AJM i'm getting closer to being up to date on the bloggage. This week's effort was reasonably quick to write, but the next couple require some video editing:
http://allysmithblog.blogspot.com/2016/09/a-blog-week-until-im-up-to-date-p...
In reply to SteveM:
STG - Good last few weeks pre Kalymnos, stay in shape and don't get injured!
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 5x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40
FITCLUB 500 goal - do MTG by week 500 which is the week I return from Kalymnos.
You're right Dandan, its a hard life!
Mon - end of the beach time in Bali, fly home overnight.
Tues - flew home. 1xstrength and conditioning set. 10 min max hangs fingerboard. Big sleep.
Weds - WW bouldering. Bunch of easy ones to warm up. Then 3xV3/4 & 1xV4/5.
Thurs - quick WW stamina. Laps on the V4 circuit. About 7 laps in total although max in a go was 1.3x ish. About 25 moves in a lap.
Sat - WW bouldering. Another V3/4, another V4/5 and a V5. Only the 2nd V5 I've ever done and only took 3 or 4 goes. Was my style, very crimpy. Close on a few more V3/4 & V4/5.
Sun - WW routes. 7 routes in total. Managed to OS a straight wall 7a. Chest infection and lost voice this weekend meant overhangs were tough as I couldn't breathe.
Decent week back, feeling fairly strong on things. Bouldering going well, even the V3/4 are usually tough for me at WW so happy to be ticking them, Next week will be slacker, other commitments so will only manage 2 days, hopefully 1 should be outside though.
STG - Good last few weeks pre Kalymnos, stay in shape and don't get injured!
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 5x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40
FITCLUB 500 goal - do MTG by week 500 which is the week I return from Kalymnos.
You're right Dandan, its a hard life!
Mon - end of the beach time in Bali, fly home overnight.
Tues - flew home. 1xstrength and conditioning set. 10 min max hangs fingerboard. Big sleep.
Weds - WW bouldering. Bunch of easy ones to warm up. Then 3xV3/4 & 1xV4/5.
Thurs - quick WW stamina. Laps on the V4 circuit. About 7 laps in total although max in a go was 1.3x ish. About 25 moves in a lap.
Sat - WW bouldering. Another V3/4, another V4/5 and a V5. Only the 2nd V5 I've ever done and only took 3 or 4 goes. Was my style, very crimpy. Close on a few more V3/4 & V4/5.
Sun - WW routes. 7 routes in total. Managed to OS a straight wall 7a. Chest infection and lost voice this weekend meant overhangs were tough as I couldn't breathe.
Decent week back, feeling fairly strong on things. Bouldering going well, even the V3/4 are usually tough for me at WW so happy to be ticking them, Next week will be slacker, other commitments so will only manage 2 days, hopefully 1 should be outside though.
In reply to Dandan:
M - already reported last week
T - cycle commute. Felt dire. Went to Armistice to garden - trying to get to the final 2 sport lines I haven't climbed, although 1 looks to be lost to nature.
W - cycle commute. Still felt grotty. Not very convincing core session then lots of shoulder work, press-ups etc.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Lapped 7a x3, break then 6c+ x3, break then 6c x3. 15 routes in total.
F - got half way to Cheddar with D1 but then couldn't convince ourselves it was just drizzle. TCA instead, good session.
S - as per Ally & AJM, received shocking news about a friend. Very sad, having trouble taking it in.
S - climbing outside just didn't seem appropriate so UCR with AJM & D1. Ticked another 7b, played on a 7c and a 7b+, both of which feel possible at least up to the final clip - worth more work. Bit of flexibility work in the evening.
M - already reported last week
T - cycle commute. Felt dire. Went to Armistice to garden - trying to get to the final 2 sport lines I haven't climbed, although 1 looks to be lost to nature.
W - cycle commute. Still felt grotty. Not very convincing core session then lots of shoulder work, press-ups etc.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Lapped 7a x3, break then 6c+ x3, break then 6c x3. 15 routes in total.
F - got half way to Cheddar with D1 but then couldn't convince ourselves it was just drizzle. TCA instead, good session.
S - as per Ally & AJM, received shocking news about a friend. Very sad, having trouble taking it in.
S - climbing outside just didn't seem appropriate so UCR with AJM & D1. Ticked another 7b, played on a 7c and a 7b+, both of which feel possible at least up to the final clip - worth more work. Bit of flexibility work in the evening.
In reply to Si dH:
For your delectation - no #5 & #6 cams required...
youtube.com/watch?v=wzeQoquZ7Yc&
For your delectation - no #5 & #6 cams required...
youtube.com/watch?v=wzeQoquZ7Yc&
1
In reply to Dandan:
day one of "proper" work under way.
M-Th: Nothing
F: TCA with hms after we got part of the way to cheddar then came to the conclusion it was too rainy. Got a handful more of the yellows done with useful beta from hms and a good brushing of some of the holds. Several left that I haven't done, a few I haven't even tried. Reckon I can get a few more if I have another session on them.
S: very much in a bit of a daze all day after bad news.
S: UCR with AJM, hms and MrsAJM. First time I have done a routes session in absolutely ages. Managed 10 routes 6a-6b+ without massive head or stamina issues. Next session I'll start pushing the grade a bit more whilst also getting used to doing more than a few moves at a time.
day one of "proper" work under way.
M-Th: Nothing
F: TCA with hms after we got part of the way to cheddar then came to the conclusion it was too rainy. Got a handful more of the yellows done with useful beta from hms and a good brushing of some of the holds. Several left that I haven't done, a few I haven't even tried. Reckon I can get a few more if I have another session on them.
S: very much in a bit of a daze all day after bad news.
S: UCR with AJM, hms and MrsAJM. First time I have done a routes session in absolutely ages. Managed 10 routes 6a-6b+ without massive head or stamina issues. Next session I'll start pushing the grade a bit more whilst also getting used to doing more than a few moves at a time.
In reply to Si dH:
I can lend you some big gear in exchange for a good story and preferably some photos of gurning.....
I can lend you some big gear in exchange for a good story and preferably some photos of gurning.....
In reply to Si dH:
Thank you! Monday at Millstone was Lyons Corner House (HVS 5a) (onsight) - had a mare on the traverse and put way too many pieces in. Then couldn't figure out the sequence to start the arête and put in even more! Then a repeat of Great Portland Street (HVS 5b) (repeat, 2007) - simply fab! Yesterday at Rivelin was a couple of repeats; Croton Oil (HVS 5a) (repeat, 2008) and Blizzard Ridge (HVS 5a) (led in 2008, seconded in 2013 but I have no memory of that!). I didn't read the bit about it being bold until I was about to start but committed to the climb anyway. Bottom section went very well, smooth climbing just putting in the gear that was needed but nearly had a wobble a long way above my gear after the central section. Held it together though, pulled hard to get into the break, disco legs started but I had a word with myself and put in some good pieces. It's been a long time since I had that sort of commitment - try hard or take a good long fall - with no easy escape available! I've also done a couple of bold VSs - Arête Direct (VS 4c) and Left Edge (VS 4c). I've been avoiding climbs described as "bold" for longer than I can remember...
Thank you! Monday at Millstone was Lyons Corner House (HVS 5a) (onsight) - had a mare on the traverse and put way too many pieces in. Then couldn't figure out the sequence to start the arête and put in even more! Then a repeat of Great Portland Street (HVS 5b) (repeat, 2007) - simply fab! Yesterday at Rivelin was a couple of repeats; Croton Oil (HVS 5a) (repeat, 2008) and Blizzard Ridge (HVS 5a) (led in 2008, seconded in 2013 but I have no memory of that!). I didn't read the bit about it being bold until I was about to start but committed to the climb anyway. Bottom section went very well, smooth climbing just putting in the gear that was needed but nearly had a wobble a long way above my gear after the central section. Held it together though, pulled hard to get into the break, disco legs started but I had a word with myself and put in some good pieces. It's been a long time since I had that sort of commitment - try hard or take a good long fall - with no easy escape available! I've also done a couple of bold VSs - Arête Direct (VS 4c) and Left Edge (VS 4c). I've been avoiding climbs described as "bold" for longer than I can remember...
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me,
First week of the Randall Plan this week, it starts off easy apparently but some of the sessions were still very intense, it seems he is a big fan of eliminating wasted miles, quality not quantity seems to be the watchword here.
M: Bricklaying I assume
T: Core; Low reps of some really hard exercises with short rests, I was feeling this all week. Also went for a little ride.
W: Climb; continuity, 3x 8min sets at or below 6b
T: Climb; Polarised continuity, 5 sets of 1 hard route with 4min of easy climbing immediately after, felt pretty reasonable which is good as it is supposed to be a low/medium intensity session.
F: Conditioning; Ring/trx exercises and chin up bar stuff, again, short but intense
S: Climb; Polarised continuity, felt harder than Thursday, but it was a different wall so not everything was equal, I think the easy climbing was a little too hard.
S: Bit of active recovery bricklaying...
Everything felt pretty do-able so far which is pleasing, I've no doubt that it will ramp up considerably but at least so far my elbows aren't complaining and the rest of my body seems to be keeping up, long may it continue.
I'm conscious that Tom has included some rest weeks and warned me not to take that as an excuse to do a load of other non-climbing related stuff, I'll surely be tempted to put loads of time in to building the garage so I have to be watchful of that.
If I'm going to do a slabby/technical/thin/arête climb for the FitClub 500, can anyone help with any suggestions? For logistical purposes it needs to be on Portland or Swanage really, getting further afield is by no means guaranteed.
Thanks me,
First week of the Randall Plan this week, it starts off easy apparently but some of the sessions were still very intense, it seems he is a big fan of eliminating wasted miles, quality not quantity seems to be the watchword here.
M: Bricklaying I assume
T: Core; Low reps of some really hard exercises with short rests, I was feeling this all week. Also went for a little ride.
W: Climb; continuity, 3x 8min sets at or below 6b
T: Climb; Polarised continuity, 5 sets of 1 hard route with 4min of easy climbing immediately after, felt pretty reasonable which is good as it is supposed to be a low/medium intensity session.
F: Conditioning; Ring/trx exercises and chin up bar stuff, again, short but intense
S: Climb; Polarised continuity, felt harder than Thursday, but it was a different wall so not everything was equal, I think the easy climbing was a little too hard.
S: Bit of active recovery bricklaying...
Everything felt pretty do-able so far which is pleasing, I've no doubt that it will ramp up considerably but at least so far my elbows aren't complaining and the rest of my body seems to be keeping up, long may it continue.
I'm conscious that Tom has included some rest weeks and warned me not to take that as an excuse to do a load of other non-climbing related stuff, I'll surely be tempted to put loads of time in to building the garage so I have to be watchful of that.
If I'm going to do a slabby/technical/thin/arête climb for the FitClub 500, can anyone help with any suggestions? For logistical purposes it needs to be on Portland or Swanage really, getting further afield is by no means guaranteed.
In reply to Dandan:
*FitClub 500 Goals* I like the idea of a goal with the number 500 included. I'm crap at getting any form of structured core/antagonistic exercise done; including press-ups, YITs, pull-ups, squats etc. Keeping a running tally... what about a target of 500 total exercises for the week (Oct 10-16)? I'd have to try and build up to that weekly volume between now and then...
*FitClub 500 Goals* I like the idea of a goal with the number 500 included. I'm crap at getting any form of structured core/antagonistic exercise done; including press-ups, YITs, pull-ups, squats etc. Keeping a running tally... what about a target of 500 total exercises for the week (Oct 10-16)? I'd have to try and build up to that weekly volume between now and then...
1
In reply to Dandan:
Yikes indeed. Might not be able to do it now, hurt myself training this week and not sure how long it will take to get over it. Shin hurts like hell. Had a case of shin splints earlier this year that took five weeks to get over. To say I'm a bit down in the dumps about this is an understatement
m - driving from Scotland to Northumbria
t - driving from Northumbria to home
w - 10k cycling
t - 10k cycling
f - 24k off road run. Another recce for The Yorkshireman - injured my shin.
s - getting soaked at Bingley Music Live
s - drying out in the sun at Bingley Music Live!
STG - Get over shin injury.
MTG - parkrun PB at Bradford or Halifax - didn't manage it this week
LTG - Climb a big mountain next year.
> Morning FitClubbers!
> Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=648680
> Hokkyokusei - Off-road marathon? Yikes!
Yikes indeed. Might not be able to do it now, hurt myself training this week and not sure how long it will take to get over it. Shin hurts like hell. Had a case of shin splints earlier this year that took five weeks to get over. To say I'm a bit down in the dumps about this is an understatement
m - driving from Scotland to Northumbria
t - driving from Northumbria to home
w - 10k cycling
t - 10k cycling
f - 24k off road run. Another recce for The Yorkshireman - injured my shin.
s - getting soaked at Bingley Music Live
s - drying out in the sun at Bingley Music Live!
STG - Get over shin injury.
MTG - parkrun PB at Bradford or Halifax - didn't manage it this week
LTG - Climb a big mountain next year.
In reply to SteveM:
Nice one, those 4 are all classic routes too And not soft touch.
Something like Blizzard is a good one to gradually develop your head game on I'd have said - a little run out but only in places where you can afford to take your time, and still with enough gear that you wouldn't actually deck out on anything.
I think your 500 exercises is a reasonable target. It's very achievable in a week but just make sure you don't compromise good form by going too fast. One of the sources of my bad shoulder injury earlier this year is years of dropping down to do 20 rushed pressups on a whim all the time.
Nice one, those 4 are all classic routes too And not soft touch.
Something like Blizzard is a good one to gradually develop your head game on I'd have said - a little run out but only in places where you can afford to take your time, and still with enough gear that you wouldn't actually deck out on anything.
I think your 500 exercises is a reasonable target. It's very achievable in a week but just make sure you don't compromise good form by going too fast. One of the sources of my bad shoulder injury earlier this year is years of dropping down to do 20 rushed pressups on a whim all the time.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Melvin Bragg looks pretty desperate but a good option if I find myself there bouldering. Do I succeed just for having tried it? Another possibility is that v5/6 John Allen thing at Gardoms (without laybacking.)
I did say to someone on Saturday night that it would be fun to try Right Eliminate. However we'd both had a few beers, so I consider it a'soft' commitment!
Melvin Bragg looks pretty desperate but a good option if I find myself there bouldering. Do I succeed just for having tried it? Another possibility is that v5/6 John Allen thing at Gardoms (without laybacking.)
I did say to someone on Saturday night that it would be fun to try Right Eliminate. However we'd both had a few beers, so I consider it a'soft' commitment!
1
In reply to AJM:
I was going to suggest The Sears Tower...
I was going to suggest The Sears Tower...
In reply to Dandan:
Achieved a couple of short term goals, pleasingly flashed a 6a+ at the wall.
Stats:
Mon - Nothing
Tues - P46, S43
Weds - Swimming, 1575m 38 mins. P50, S34
Thurs - Nothing
Fri - Redpoint then terrible news received. Beer and fags.
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Nothing
Weight: 73.40
Injury report: No change, still broken. Must keep doing exercises.
Goals:
Short Term (next four weeks)
Press -ups - 50 in 2 mins. Tick! Change to 60!
Sit-ups 50 in 2 mins
Flash 6a at the wall. Tick!
Medium Term (over course of next year)
Get up a 6c at the wall.
Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running.
Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Suspension Flake at Hound Tor, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi
Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.
Long Term
I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH
BHAG - Cenotaph Corner
Achieved a couple of short term goals, pleasingly flashed a 6a+ at the wall.
Stats:
Mon - Nothing
Tues - P46, S43
Weds - Swimming, 1575m 38 mins. P50, S34
Thurs - Nothing
Fri - Redpoint then terrible news received. Beer and fags.
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Nothing
Weight: 73.40
Injury report: No change, still broken. Must keep doing exercises.
Goals:
Short Term (next four weeks)
Press -ups - 50 in 2 mins. Tick! Change to 60!
Sit-ups 50 in 2 mins
Flash 6a at the wall. Tick!
Medium Term (over course of next year)
Get up a 6c at the wall.
Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running.
Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Suspension Flake at Hound Tor, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi
Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.
Long Term
I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH
BHAG - Cenotaph Corner
In reply to AJM:
Hurricane isn't thin it's non-existant! I'd need some serious beta to get on that again, mind terrorist is described as bouldery and powerful!
> Mind terrorist or hurricane on a millpond maybe?
Hurricane isn't thin it's non-existant! I'd need some serious beta to get on that again, mind terrorist is described as bouldery and powerful!
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan
Bit better last week on the training this week and another mid term goal ticked so quite pleased.
Link to my photo on this site. It got posted in the western mail. It does look slightly better on flicker as I had to scale the image size down to fit on here
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=280672
Last weeks goals
Drop to 82kg - Fail still at 83kg.
2 mountain walks - Tick
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp - Wild Camp tick
Climb at least twice - Tick
Next weeks goals
Drop to 82kg
2 mountain walks
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp. Don't know if I will be able to achieve this as I might have to work all next weekend but Im going to leave it on as a goal to try and push for it.
Climb at least twice
MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b)
Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) Scavenger (VS 4c)The Druid (VS 4c) by end of Sept
Scavenger now complete
LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter
BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - 3 hour walk around the beacons with camera
Wednesday - Climbed Uber Gruppen Fuhrer (4a), Ed More (5a)
Thursday - Wild camp in the beacons
Friday - Indoor bouldering up to 6b and another 3 hour walk around the becons
Saturday - Rest
Sunday - Climbing at three cliffs bay. Climbed Traverse of the Three Pinnacles (M), Joggled Wall Direct (HS 4a) and Scavenger (VS 4c)
Happy Training
Lee
Thanks Dandan
Bit better last week on the training this week and another mid term goal ticked so quite pleased.
Link to my photo on this site. It got posted in the western mail. It does look slightly better on flicker as I had to scale the image size down to fit on here
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=280672
Last weeks goals
Drop to 82kg - Fail still at 83kg.
2 mountain walks - Tick
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp - Wild Camp tick
Climb at least twice - Tick
Next weeks goals
Drop to 82kg
2 mountain walks
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp. Don't know if I will be able to achieve this as I might have to work all next weekend but Im going to leave it on as a goal to try and push for it.
Climb at least twice
MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b)
Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) Scavenger (VS 4c)The Druid (VS 4c) by end of Sept
Scavenger now complete
LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter
BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - 3 hour walk around the beacons with camera
Wednesday - Climbed Uber Gruppen Fuhrer (4a), Ed More (5a)
Thursday - Wild camp in the beacons
Friday - Indoor bouldering up to 6b and another 3 hour walk around the becons
Saturday - Rest
Sunday - Climbing at three cliffs bay. Climbed Traverse of the Three Pinnacles (M), Joggled Wall Direct (HS 4a) and Scavenger (VS 4c)
Happy Training
Lee
2
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan, the logistics of the house move shouldn't be too bad but there will be some other stuff around it which will be stressing me out for a while to come.
I cant remember last week too much now but I think it consisted of three trips to the Depot and rehab, although I've been slack on the latter. I've now done as many purples in this set as I do uninjured so I think they're easy.
Looking forward to getting involved in my week 500 goals.
Cheers Dan, the logistics of the house move shouldn't be too bad but there will be some other stuff around it which will be stressing me out for a while to come.
I cant remember last week too much now but I think it consisted of three trips to the Depot and rehab, although I've been slack on the latter. I've now done as many purples in this set as I do uninjured so I think they're easy.
Looking forward to getting involved in my week 500 goals.
In reply to leeboy1985:
Well done! I've been following this one with interest as I remember those two Three Cliffs Bay VSs fondly, particularly Arch Slab. I need to go back and redo Scavenger at some point as I only seconded it a good number of years ago. How was it?
Well done! I've been following this one with interest as I remember those two Three Cliffs Bay VSs fondly, particularly Arch Slab. I need to go back and redo Scavenger at some point as I only seconded it a good number of years ago. How was it?
In reply to Bobling:
Thank you
I really enjoyed it. The crux lay back was very wet which made it feel a bit sketchy pulling on some of the holds but I had more gear than u could shake a stick at below me and I could of placed more if I was not worrying about not having anything left for the belay 😀
I backed off arch slab but as I was at the top of scavenger I watched someone else do it and they traversed a lot lower than I did so I need to go back to have a look at that one again as I did have a really nice nut placed and could see the next placement just could not work the move out across (if I'm honest I was being a baby and didn't want to fall 😀
Thank you
I really enjoyed it. The crux lay back was very wet which made it feel a bit sketchy pulling on some of the holds but I had more gear than u could shake a stick at below me and I could of placed more if I was not worrying about not having anything left for the belay 😀
I backed off arch slab but as I was at the top of scavenger I watched someone else do it and they traversed a lot lower than I did so I need to go back to have a look at that one again as I did have a really nice nut placed and could see the next placement just could not work the move out across (if I'm honest I was being a baby and didn't want to fall 😀
In reply to Dandan:
Also I think my fit club 500 goal will be tout try and climb inverted v on stanage by then. Starting to think I can do these vs now
Also I think my fit club 500 goal will be tout try and climb inverted v on stanage by then. Starting to think I can do these vs now
In reply to leeboy1985:
Heh - yes I think I went too high on Arch Slab and made a couple of very thin feeling moves on crystals before reaching good gear again. Having redone it though the lower traverse right to the apex of the roof also involves a very forbidding move done to it. It's a great route whatever so get back on it!
Heh - yes I think I went too high on Arch Slab and made a couple of very thin feeling moves on crystals before reaching good gear again. Having redone it though the lower traverse right to the apex of the roof also involves a very forbidding move done to it. It's a great route whatever so get back on it!
In reply to Bobling:
Thanks Bobling
Sounds like u really enjoyed it. It is a really nice looking climbing. I'm hoping to get back down there before the end of this month to do it.
It does seem like a committing move
Thanks Bobling
Sounds like u really enjoyed it. It is a really nice looking climbing. I'm hoping to get back down there before the end of this month to do it.
It does seem like a committing move
In reply to Dandan:
For 500 challenge... I'm thinking either/or/both:
1. Put together Jerry's Traverse (f7A+)
2. E3 lead. Would appreciate some suggestions here, and realistically it would have to be either Wye Valley/Symonds Yat (Bristol crew?) or Peak limestone (Si?) for travel purposes.
Strengths: techy, fingery, strong lock-offs. Head quite good.
Weaknesses: Arms and legs very short. Shoulders apparently not as good as I thought (according to Tom!)
I've realistically got 7 days out of the 6 weekends (weather permitting) due to a work, christening, running Women's Climbing Symposium etc so it will be a steep ask to get in the zone in time so need to choose right!
For 500 challenge... I'm thinking either/or/both:
1. Put together Jerry's Traverse (f7A+)
2. E3 lead. Would appreciate some suggestions here, and realistically it would have to be either Wye Valley/Symonds Yat (Bristol crew?) or Peak limestone (Si?) for travel purposes.
Strengths: techy, fingery, strong lock-offs. Head quite good.
Weaknesses: Arms and legs very short. Shoulders apparently not as good as I thought (according to Tom!)
I've realistically got 7 days out of the 6 weekends (weather permitting) due to a work, christening, running Women's Climbing Symposium etc so it will be a steep ask to get in the zone in time so need to choose right!
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thoughts:
- There are a lot of things I've done at Avon or Wintours which are reliant on pegs, some to the extent of being clip-em-ups on insitu gear. I'm not currently in a place where I would want to recommend people routes excessively reliant on peg protection, which has therefore thinned my list a lot. I left comments on them when I did them though so if you go looking for them you'll probably find my comments.
- Strange little girl first pitch has hard moves by the bolt and is probably easy E3? Second pitch is a lot harder bit you can abb off I think.
- Fly in the eye I seem to remember being a nice fiddly wall, although I don't recall much else
- I remember flyover (I think - E3 corner on fly wall) being good - it does have a peg although my memory suggests there was some other gear too? Thin bridging basically.
- steppenwolf at Avon is an excellent route
- whilst think pink deservedly gets stars it is very tough to account for the several bolts which help protect it. Ditto Them and Mirage are both fairly tough.
> E3 lead. Would appreciate some suggestions here, and realistically it would have to be either Wye Valley/Symonds Yat (Bristol crew?) or Peak limestone (Si?) for travel purposes.
Thoughts:
- There are a lot of things I've done at Avon or Wintours which are reliant on pegs, some to the extent of being clip-em-ups on insitu gear. I'm not currently in a place where I would want to recommend people routes excessively reliant on peg protection, which has therefore thinned my list a lot. I left comments on them when I did them though so if you go looking for them you'll probably find my comments.
- Strange little girl first pitch has hard moves by the bolt and is probably easy E3? Second pitch is a lot harder bit you can abb off I think.
- Fly in the eye I seem to remember being a nice fiddly wall, although I don't recall much else
- I remember flyover (I think - E3 corner on fly wall) being good - it does have a peg although my memory suggests there was some other gear too? Thin bridging basically.
- steppenwolf at Avon is an excellent route
- whilst think pink deservedly gets stars it is very tough to account for the several bolts which help protect it. Ditto Them and Mirage are both fairly tough.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, I'll look into those and get stalking your logbook comments! I've heard lots of good things about Steppenwolf too.
Thanks Andy, I'll look into those and get stalking your logbook comments! I've heard lots of good things about Steppenwolf too.
Post edited at 12:51
In reply to Just Tintin:
If you want me to trawl memory banks any deeper on any of them then just shout.
If you want me to trawl memory banks any deeper on any of them then just shout.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks! Remember you and Ally did The Beest relatively recently. Was the crux techniquable or just go big? (and if so, what kind of go big?!) Have always done pretty well on Beeston so wondering about that and Black Grub too...
Thanks! Remember you and Ally did The Beest relatively recently. Was the crux techniquable or just go big? (and if so, what kind of go big?!) Have always done pretty well on Beeston so wondering about that and Black Grub too...
In reply to Just Tintin:
Like Andy - recent events mean I can't recommend any Avon peg protected routes with a clear conscience:
No peg Avon E3 options:
Them (E3 6a) - safe and hard, top end E3 though
Mirage (E3 6a) - cruxy, don't get on it in the drect sun...
One Rawl for All (E3 5c) - bolder option - fiddly crimpers
No Strange Delight (E3 5c) - might be almost fully bolted now, and hence a good intro to E3? (Probably means it's also fully polished too!?)
Steppenwolf (E3 5c) - I remember over gripping on the lower bit and hence being more pumped than expected on the upper bit
Others:
The Beest (E3 6a) - I lanked the crux and thought it was fine (Eng 5c), Andy struggled, but in retrospect was on the verge of dehydration. Top pitch is probably E3 5c too.
Black Grub (E3 5c) - loved this - doing fiddly vert trad after a winter of bouldering/sport climbing means my toes hated it though!
Like Andy - recent events mean I can't recommend any Avon peg protected routes with a clear conscience:
No peg Avon E3 options:
Them (E3 6a) - safe and hard, top end E3 though
Mirage (E3 6a) - cruxy, don't get on it in the drect sun...
One Rawl for All (E3 5c) - bolder option - fiddly crimpers
No Strange Delight (E3 5c) - might be almost fully bolted now, and hence a good intro to E3? (Probably means it's also fully polished too!?)
Steppenwolf (E3 5c) - I remember over gripping on the lower bit and hence being more pumped than expected on the upper bit
Others:
The Beest (E3 6a) - I lanked the crux and thought it was fine (Eng 5c), Andy struggled, but in retrospect was on the verge of dehydration. Top pitch is probably E3 5c too.
Black Grub (E3 5c) - loved this - doing fiddly vert trad after a winter of bouldering/sport climbing means my toes hated it though!
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
BIG: I'm 6'1" with a +3" ape index...
...there are technical solutions though, you just need little fingers
> Was the crux techniquable or just go big? (and if so, what kind of go big?!)
BIG: I'm 6'1" with a +3" ape index...
...there are technical solutions though, you just need little fingers
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
It felt like a fairly big move. I don't remember that much viable in the middle but I'm not 100%.
I don't think apart from those Beeston routes I've done any peak E3s apart from Robert Brown which is good - my memory is fairly limited save for remembering that the crux goes on a bit longer than you think it's going to.
It felt like a fairly big move. I don't remember that much viable in the middle but I'm not 100%.
I don't think apart from those Beeston routes I've done any peak E3s apart from Robert Brown which is good - my memory is fairly limited save for remembering that the crux goes on a bit longer than you think it's going to.
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
Wouldn't personally bother travelling for the few E3s I've done at Wintours, mostly pegs and poor rock. The Peak is much better.
Peak lime E3s (I've only listed really good ones!):
The Beest. P1 just one hard, well protected move. It's a reach, but if you are good at lock offs you'll be fine. P2 much more sustained though and I thought the harder pitch. The crux is also reachy (or was the way I did it.)
Rave on: pumpy/powerful but loads of gear and not technical. Move fast.
Absent Friends: crimpy, technical, enough gear but you have to work things out. My first E3.
42nd street: not too technical and supposedly low in the grade but I took a sizeable whipper from the crux, it gets awkward and pumpy for a couple of moves above the gear.
Lyme Cryme: hard and bold, avoid as a first of the grade.
Perseus: Long and with occasional run-outs but it's all there and never desperate. Physically easier than Darius. Probably a good option if you like High Tor.
Robert Brown: generally steady but the crux section from the overlap is bold and feels very committing.
Adjudicator Wall: brilliant, very safe but desperate; avoid for now. Also reachy.
Scoop Wall (now upgraded): brilliant route, pumpy then techy but well protected and nothing desperate. Slightly reachy at the top maybe, but there is probably a way around that. Only really E2.
Mad Dogs and Englishman: really good but reachy around the bulge, can't remember if this is avoidable with technique. I fell off as the guidebook line is wrong - you need to reach further left over the bulge than expected.
HTH
P.S you should try one of them AND Jerry's
Wouldn't personally bother travelling for the few E3s I've done at Wintours, mostly pegs and poor rock. The Peak is much better.
Peak lime E3s (I've only listed really good ones!):
The Beest. P1 just one hard, well protected move. It's a reach, but if you are good at lock offs you'll be fine. P2 much more sustained though and I thought the harder pitch. The crux is also reachy (or was the way I did it.)
Rave on: pumpy/powerful but loads of gear and not technical. Move fast.
Absent Friends: crimpy, technical, enough gear but you have to work things out. My first E3.
42nd street: not too technical and supposedly low in the grade but I took a sizeable whipper from the crux, it gets awkward and pumpy for a couple of moves above the gear.
Lyme Cryme: hard and bold, avoid as a first of the grade.
Perseus: Long and with occasional run-outs but it's all there and never desperate. Physically easier than Darius. Probably a good option if you like High Tor.
Robert Brown: generally steady but the crux section from the overlap is bold and feels very committing.
Adjudicator Wall: brilliant, very safe but desperate; avoid for now. Also reachy.
Scoop Wall (now upgraded): brilliant route, pumpy then techy but well protected and nothing desperate. Slightly reachy at the top maybe, but there is probably a way around that. Only really E2.
Mad Dogs and Englishman: really good but reachy around the bulge, can't remember if this is avoidable with technique. I fell off as the guidebook line is wrong - you need to reach further left over the bulge than expected.
HTH
P.S you should try one of them AND Jerry's
Post edited at 18:38
In reply to AJM:
I realised I left Tower Route off my suggestions earlier. I know nothing about the first pitch because we approached it up Big Brother (which a shorter member of our party seemed to find rather hard) but the second pitch is good.
I realised I left Tower Route off my suggestions earlier. I know nothing about the first pitch because we approached it up Big Brother (which a shorter member of our party seemed to find rather hard) but the second pitch is good.
In reply to Si dH:
Haven't you only done the peg-em-up that wasn't on my list, and big brother/tower route? (Ie have you climbed E3 at Wintours any day aside from that one?)
Did the latter have pegs on it? I have to confess my recollection of tower route was small wires and I don't recall anything much about big brother first pitch.
I don't remember where you're thinking of poor rock either, to be fair, unless it's on the peg route, white feather, about which I have very little other memory save for it being an end of day fight. My memory of tower route was quite compact rock, hence the small wires.
Haven't you only done the peg-em-up that wasn't on my list, and big brother/tower route? (Ie have you climbed E3 at Wintours any day aside from that one?)
Did the latter have pegs on it? I have to confess my recollection of tower route was small wires and I don't recall anything much about big brother first pitch.
I don't remember where you're thinking of poor rock either, to be fair, unless it's on the peg route, white feather, about which I have very little other memory save for it being an end of day fight. My memory of tower route was quite compact rock, hence the small wires.
In reply to AJM:
I did that one with you, and two over to the left hand side I think (white feather and something else - I think.) I'd agree that Tower Route /Big Brother were less chosslike than those on the left. I'm not saying they're terrible, but they're not anywhere near on a par with the routes I listed above. The rock quality at the whole crag simply isn't that great.
I did that one with you, and two over to the left hand side I think (white feather and something else - I think.) I'd agree that Tower Route /Big Brother were less chosslike than those on the left. I'm not saying they're terrible, but they're not anywhere near on a par with the routes I listed above. The rock quality at the whole crag simply isn't that great.
Post edited at 21:04
In reply to Dandan:
Quick post before I run out of week. Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
Mon: Battleship. Warmed up on a super-greasy Buoys will be Buoys. Jurassic Shift clean by the skin of my teeth using a terrible sequence. Pullups, pressups.
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Wall. Boulder projects. Rings.
Thurs: Rest.
Fri: Wall. Flashed an indoor 7a for the first time ever 3 laps on short steep 6c x4. 4 laps on short steep 6b+ x4.
Sat: Wall. 1 min on, 1 min off x10 at 7a. Pullups.
Sun: Fingerboard am. Pressups, pullups, core pm.
Quick post before I run out of week. Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
Mon: Battleship. Warmed up on a super-greasy Buoys will be Buoys. Jurassic Shift clean by the skin of my teeth using a terrible sequence. Pullups, pressups.
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Wall. Boulder projects. Rings.
Thurs: Rest.
Fri: Wall. Flashed an indoor 7a for the first time ever 3 laps on short steep 6c x4. 4 laps on short steep 6b+ x4.
Sat: Wall. 1 min on, 1 min off x10 at 7a. Pullups.
Sun: Fingerboard am. Pressups, pullups, core pm.
3
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Yep I love it! The only problem with skiing is that it is yet another hobby to try and fit in. Life is too short to do everything that I want to do!
A good week on the bike and I think I'm settling in to the training pretty well now. Recovery has massively improved after diet changes and getting more sleep and hydration. Small changes but huge improvements all-in-all. I'm going to start trying to squeeze in some more climbing now and see how my energy levels are.
Mon: 8hr walk in Peak.
Tue: 1hr MTB hill work.
Wed: 1hr MTB easy, spinning the legs out.
Thu: 1hr MTB sweetspots.
Fri: Rest day
Sat: Burghley International Horse trials with family
Sun: 3hr MTB at Cannock Chase (Dog, Monkey and the blue), 23 miles
STGs:
Follow bike plan TICK!
Get some routes done
Climb or strength train 2x per week 1/2
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
MTGs (before end 2016):
Boulder V5/6
Lead a Severe
Get competent at skiing part 1: Levels 1-3 at Chill Factore TICK!
Get competent at skiing part 2: Levels 4-6 at Chill Factore TICK!
Get competent at skiing part 3: Just got to get some mileage in now!
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder V7
Do a ski trip
Thanks Dan. Yep I love it! The only problem with skiing is that it is yet another hobby to try and fit in. Life is too short to do everything that I want to do!
A good week on the bike and I think I'm settling in to the training pretty well now. Recovery has massively improved after diet changes and getting more sleep and hydration. Small changes but huge improvements all-in-all. I'm going to start trying to squeeze in some more climbing now and see how my energy levels are.
Mon: 8hr walk in Peak.
Tue: 1hr MTB hill work.
Wed: 1hr MTB easy, spinning the legs out.
Thu: 1hr MTB sweetspots.
Fri: Rest day
Sat: Burghley International Horse trials with family
Sun: 3hr MTB at Cannock Chase (Dog, Monkey and the blue), 23 miles
STGs:
Follow bike plan TICK!
Get some routes done
Climb or strength train 2x per week 1/2
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
MTGs (before end 2016):
Boulder V5/6
Lead a Severe
Get competent at skiing part 1: Levels 1-3 at Chill Factore TICK!
Get competent at skiing part 2: Levels 4-6 at Chill Factore TICK!
Get competent at skiing part 3: Just got to get some mileage in now!
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder V7
Do a ski trip
In reply to Si dH, AJM and Ally Smith:
Thanks very much - I really appreciate it and it's great to have a bit of focus especially when it feels like there's not that much time. 5ft7 but -3 ape also very glad of the reachy warnings! Hoping to look at the Peak stuff this weekend, and then will have to be a day trip from Oxford next weekend as working, so might have to head west.
Si - will try to fit in Jerry's too!
Notes to self:
1. Need to also start considering the possibility for trad non-onsightage. Not really failed anything before so probably an indicator of a.) not pushing hard enough b.) not having seconded anything harder than I've led.
2. Pay attention to sleeping better. Might help performance.
Thanks very much - I really appreciate it and it's great to have a bit of focus especially when it feels like there's not that much time. 5ft7 but -3 ape also very glad of the reachy warnings! Hoping to look at the Peak stuff this weekend, and then will have to be a day trip from Oxford next weekend as working, so might have to head west.
Si - will try to fit in Jerry's too!
Notes to self:
1. Need to also start considering the possibility for trad non-onsightage. Not really failed anything before so probably an indicator of a.) not pushing hard enough b.) not having seconded anything harder than I've led.
2. Pay attention to sleeping better. Might help performance.
In reply to Just Tintin:
A suggestion from left field would be:
Manikins of Horror (E3 5c)
It's on my list as a potential first E3 in the area, sounds quite well protected and with numerous pegs. You could also do Digitron (E2 5c) as a warm up. I'd imagine that Craig Arthur is a similar distance from Oxford as the Peak.
A suggestion from left field would be:
Manikins of Horror (E3 5c)
It's on my list as a potential first E3 in the area, sounds quite well protected and with numerous pegs. You could also do Digitron (E2 5c) as a warm up. I'd imagine that Craig Arthur is a similar distance from Oxford as the Peak.
In reply to Dandan:
If I do the Oak by then I will deserve that cheque.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=238610
UKC Fit Club – training diary Week 5
ukb shark - on 22 Apr 2007
Goals: Redpoint Overnite at Malham. Run 1.35 in Sheff Half marathon.
M. Foundry bit of bouldering and campussing.
T. 6.5 mile course thru parks. P.B. Ecstatic.
W.
T. Malham cooler conditions. Redpointed Overnite ! Hardest route to date.
F. 43 today. Bouldered on Wave. First go font6c+ (good for me)
S. 10 mile run. Another PB !
S.
Great week. Have to choose new climbing goal - probably Austrian Oak.
> It’s the 500th FitClub on the 16th of October and Tyler suggested coming up with a goal to achieve by then, possibly something you don’t usually do, or a goal aimed at a weakness of yours. Feel free to suggest your own goals or goals for other people based on what you know about them, anyone who completes their goal will be rewarded with a huge sense of self-satisfaction and a cheque for £2000.*
If I do the Oak by then I will deserve that cheque.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=238610
UKC Fit Club – training diary Week 5
ukb shark - on 22 Apr 2007
Goals: Redpoint Overnite at Malham. Run 1.35 in Sheff Half marathon.
M. Foundry bit of bouldering and campussing.
T. 6.5 mile course thru parks. P.B. Ecstatic.
W.
T. Malham cooler conditions. Redpointed Overnite ! Hardest route to date.
F. 43 today. Bouldered on Wave. First go font6c+ (good for me)
S. 10 mile run. Another PB !
S.
Great week. Have to choose new climbing goal - probably Austrian Oak.
4
In reply to ukb shark:
I was waiting for an opportune moment to post that up! Mind you it's worse for me, I've been down hill since week 1. I set too high a bar!
I was waiting for an opportune moment to post that up! Mind you it's worse for me, I've been down hill since week 1. I set too high a bar!
In reply to ukb shark:
when I started sport climbing around 5 years ago, rookie routes at Malham etc, my audacious seeming goal was to one day do Obsession and Frankie..... the key to success is to have lowly ambitions.
when I started sport climbing around 5 years ago, rookie routes at Malham etc, my audacious seeming goal was to one day do Obsession and Frankie..... the key to success is to have lowly ambitions.
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Set some goals when you're 43 and see if your theory still holds true
Set some goals when you're 43 and see if your theory still holds true
Post edited at 14:08
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. It is indeed. How's your polariSed continuity feeling second time round? Mine was harder but I'm pretty wrecked at the moment due to crap sleep and doing too many volunteering things in my 'spare' (aka early hours) time. Think it's a matter of time before performance suffers so need to get a grip.
M - endurance laps on 7A limestone then Robin Hood's for some sunny grit - 6A max.
T - 1 on 2 off Brookes
W - core to keep Ben company. I need serious piles of books to do L sits as my arms are significantly shorter than my body.
T - 1 on 1 off. Then went home sleepy.
F - body balance, fingerboard, press ups
S - polarised continuity Climbing Unit followed by trying the new v5-7 circuit. Drove to Lakes.
S - support crew for Helvellyn Triathlon. Ben crushed 'the struggle' on the bike which was super cool - it's that 3k shortcut climb from Ambleside to the Kirkstone Pass via several sections of 1 in 4. Then headed over to Carrock Fell boulders which were midgy as, but it was worth taking about 20 bites to the face to consolidate 6C on a different rock type!
Thanks Dan. It is indeed. How's your polariSed continuity feeling second time round? Mine was harder but I'm pretty wrecked at the moment due to crap sleep and doing too many volunteering things in my 'spare' (aka early hours) time. Think it's a matter of time before performance suffers so need to get a grip.
M - endurance laps on 7A limestone then Robin Hood's for some sunny grit - 6A max.
T - 1 on 2 off Brookes
W - core to keep Ben company. I need serious piles of books to do L sits as my arms are significantly shorter than my body.
T - 1 on 1 off. Then went home sleepy.
F - body balance, fingerboard, press ups
S - polarised continuity Climbing Unit followed by trying the new v5-7 circuit. Drove to Lakes.
S - support crew for Helvellyn Triathlon. Ben crushed 'the struggle' on the bike which was super cool - it's that 3k shortcut climb from Ambleside to the Kirkstone Pass via several sections of 1 in 4. Then headed over to Carrock Fell boulders which were midgy as, but it was worth taking about 20 bites to the face to consolidate 6C on a different rock type!
1
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