UKC

Cala del Moraig

I'm going to be on the Costa Blanca next week and was thinking of trying some DWS at Cala del Moraig. Does anyone know what the notes on the crag are referring to when they say the access ladder has fallen down? Is that the one on Jellystone Buttress? Looks like that would take out all of Bruce Lee Buttress as well? Any other tips on exits etc, do I need an exit rope or are there any easy swims/ scrambles out?

In reply to beefy_legacy:
It is the Jellystone Buttress. The ladder fell off a couple of years ago, the down climb is not very hard Severeish (F4). It is above a ledge and feels scary the first time you do it. You could access Bruce Lee via the other end if you really didn't like it. A short rope or 8ft sling over some spikes onto the ledge where the down climb is would help, or it's only a short swim into the cave if it's calm or to the beach if it's not.

Are you alone?

Rich Orange House

In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Thanks mate, I didn't see your message till now. Was out there today and didn't fancy the down climb (couldn't see it clearly from the top) so swam out a bit and found I could climb out up to the far right end of the fisherman's ledge and do the routes on the jellystone buttress (awesome).

I might have done Bruce Lee too, but not really sure, traversed out a bit to a kind of hollow then went over the top. Hard to see where I was from the rockfax guide book and what route I was doing if any, the free orange house topo was much better (thanks) but it was on my phone and didn't trust the drybag that much.

I'm here with my wife ( non-climber). I think we'll hire a boat from the beach tomorrow even if it's bloody expensive and try the Cave of Pets and maybe Bruce Lee buttress again. Maybe Moraira later if I'm not too tired. This is such a great place.

In reply to beefy_legacy:

I was there in August, and there was an official looking laminated notice saying "BANDO" then an explanation in Spanish. Is it still there? Does anyone know why it was banned? I ended up going to Ambolo ledges instead.

Rich Mayfield, thanks for the topos.

Gary.

In reply to g1m147:

Really? Didn't see that. There was a sign up saying dangerous ground referring to the clifftop. The lifeguard basically recommended we try climbing the next beach down too, so it didn't seem very banned. According to Google bando means proclamation ...

In reply to beefy_legacy:

Mmm, yes I googled it too and thought it odd. There was a bunch of Spanish kids walked up to the notice, read it and buggered off. It took it as being banned. Never mind. Ambolo suited us ok, son jumping off cliff, snorkling etc.

Gary.

In reply to g1m147:

Ah well, never mind, sounds like you found another good place anyway! My wife is Spanish so if there had been any signs saying it was banned or muy peligroso she would have made it very hard for me to carry on!

In reply to beefy_legacy:

I split my head open at Cala Moraig WALKING back from the crag. My baseball cap hid the razor sharp fin of limestone until it was too late. My face was absolutely covered in claret, so walking back across the beach I gained the unwanted attention of dozens of completely naked people of various nationalities. A few staples later and I was relegated to a beach holiday much to my girlfriend's delight.
Nice little crag mind you.

In reply to Tom Last:

Ouch! It is pretty sharp, I'm watching it like a hawk. I feel your pain, you're speaking to someone who has walked head-first into glass doors on multiple occasions and has facial scarring from an incident involving a bathroom sink.

In reply to g1m147:

So I was back there today and there is a bando up at the other end of the beach banning jumping off the top, but not climbing. The lifeguard said psicobloc was fine and if I fell off the top he wouldn't do anything as it was his last day (viva espana).