In reply to sam_cash:
Yea, the Afanasieff-Bodin is probably a good warm up. Nothing too hard on that if I remember correctly. A crux that goes at around 3+ ice and some very easy mixed. Good test of your ability to move efficiently. If you want to do it in a reasonable time, you're going to have to move together for the vast majority of it. Bear in mind it is quite committing. A retreat of this would be time consuming and a bit of a pain. It's reasonably long (600m or so) and there's next to nothing in the way of in-situ gear.
A few other ideas for routes around the Midi/Helbronner that could appeal:
- Tour Ronde, Rebuffat Gully... it's a quality route. It's not in Battoux's 100 Finest for nothing. Crux goes at around 4 ice or M4 mixed, though conditions can vary a lot
- Mont Blanc du Tacul, Gabarrou-Albinoni... the uber classic of its grade in that area. Pretty much all ice. Crux is 4+, though do it later in the season and it'll be hacked out, making it feel easier. Go to the summit of the Tacul (rather than rap off) and it's a great, long day out
- Pointe Lachenal, Pellissier Gully... might be a bit on the tricky end for what you're looking for. Crux goes at M5, but the gear is solid and everything before that is a lot easier. You could easily rap off and bail if you didn't like the look of it
- Aiguille du Midi, Profit-Perroux... a quality line off the midi bridge. Bit committing. Crux is about M4+. Again, this one is well protected. Make sure its in condition though. Will be a lot more tricky and sketchy if it's dry
- Triangle du Tacul, Germany Gully... another short but quality line. When it's in condition, it goes at around grade 4 ice / M4 mixed. When out of condition, it still goes but is a good deal harder
Not sure where you'd start for tips on leading bigger alpine routes. You could write a whole book on that subject (and people have!). As was said above, the absolute number 1 priority is to move fast. You can't be climbing at the sort of pace you'd do in Scotland or you'll quickly find yourself benighted, which isn't so fun in autumn at 4000m. I'm sure if you look through past UKC articles, you'll find a load of tips for being quick and efficient
Post edited at 15:29