UKC

Gnat Attack (E1 5c) Bus Stop Quarry

A couple of months ago I tried to lead Gnat Attack in the slate quarries, and just couldn't do it. I've been on plenty of routes that I've failed on, fallen off or had to rest on the rope.
But Gnat Attack was different. I couldn't even work out how to do it. Fell off a good 10 times just past the first bolt and was lowered off, defeated.

Has anyone else had a similar expereience on that route?? It felt so much harder than I was expecting!

In reply to JackM92:

from what I remember its a pretty straight forward rock up with two little crimps and a not brilliant foot is it not?? I cant remember there being anything particularly taxing about it to be honest?

In reply to JackM92:

Sorry i also found it quite straightforward but then again i like slate. one sharp pull past the bolt and the holds get much better if i remember rightly. Were you definitely going the right way?

In reply to JackM92:

It's 'beris slate. There's holds, use em! Are you "stature disadvantaged"? I'm only just 5'9 on a bad hair day and I didn't find anything that reachy.

In reply to JackM92:


If it makes you feel any better I remember seconding it having just led Massambula and I distinctly remember thinking it felt a bit thin at one point.

On the other hand I don't remember my 5'2 other half even pausing for breath when she led it!

In reply to JackM92:

Were you really unable to work out how to do it, or did you just not think it was possible? There's a big difference. As mentioned previously, the entire route boils down to 1 hard move: getting your feet up and then a quick reach for the next line of holds.

Maybe get a mate to go up it first so you could have a go on toprope. It's also possible you were trying to go too far right. I would say it's middle/high slate 5c, there's worse out there I'm sure

In reply to JackM92:

My friends 3 year old toddler led it onsight. Maybe you could try a different brand of chalk?

In reply to JackM92:

All climbing is hard and when ever you struggle, everyone says it's easy. Just keep trying and keep trying things that are hard and you will soon be better than the detractors. Gnat attack isn't straight forward and you made it to the bolt which means you don't die. So well done with that.

In reply to JackM92:

I did it a few times in the early 90s and found it ok; got back on it recently and found it much harder. This is probably because I was more acclimatised to slab climbing generally & slate specifically then than I am these days, but also i think the footholds have got horribly polished.

In reply to JackM92:

Yes, it is a pretty hard move as I recall, made ok by the proximity of the bolt and the fact that one can stand around and work it out.

In reply to JackM92:

Took me 4 goes to get the crux move, but 5c moves are generally my upper limit on Trad. The edges are very tiny for hands and feet on the crux rock up (just after first bolt). New shoes with good sharp edges would help.

In reply to jsmcfarland:



middle/high 5c?!?!?!?!?!?! I'd say it's lucky to get 5c. Just put your foot on a nice hold around thigh height and stand up.

In reply to ianstevens:


Which might mean the initial move is harder for the tall (though it probably eases more quickly for the tall). I though it was quite hard 5c and a bit scary with the ledgy bit not far below.

In reply to JackM92:

Nope... : )

In reply to ianstevens:

Agreed, the move on Gnat attack is no harder than anything on Massambula, which only gets 5b (although there are more hard moves on that one!)

I may have been having an off day but I did it again recently and was surprised how hard I found it, considering it was one my first E1's and I've pulled way harder moves since. The crux move of Fool's Gold is about 5a in comparison IMHO!

In reply to JackM92: I suspect the move after the first bolt could be one that's easier for the more 'compact' climber. my partner at the time (all arms and legs- and usually the more capable climber), struggled a little on this move. However, I found it necessary to make a couple of fairly tenuous moves to clip the second bolt, wheras he was able to stand on an edge and just reach up.

In reply to JackM92:

It's thin slate climbing, trust your feet and it's all good.

In reply to jsmcfarland:

I am fairly certain that fools gold has become significantly easier over the last 20 years.

In reply to james mann:


Has it? I would have thought that that sloper of a toehold is a lot more polished?

In reply to jsmcfarland:


146 0f 279 votes think it's mid 5c and nobody rated it at 5a!

In reply to Sean Kelly:

Sean

I only say this as many other routes I have repeated recently that I did in the 90s seem considerably harder than they did back then. They must have lost holds/got polished or I'm crapper and less brave. Gnat attack always had one tricky move though but just one.
James