UKC

Joe Heeley has established a hard new Peak limestone E9 6c/7a at Dovedale, named 'Eyes Wide Shut', it fills a gap on the Watchtower Block and crosses into the classic E3 Adjudicator Wall. It has come into existence within a year of Tom Randall's addition Final Round HXS 8a+/b on Ilam Rock in the same valley.

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In reply to UKC News:

Really cool. Can't quite picture the line in its upper reaches, but that bottom bit must be hard and the section leaving the rest ledge must be where so many people have gone off route on Adjudicator Wall!

It's not realy the same crag as Final Round though, it's downstream and across the river on the Watchblock.

In reply to andi turner:

Thanks Andi! From the jugs, the line goes directly upwards through a small scoop aiming towards the small tree that wall of straws traverses up to. The top of Wall of Straws traverses to join the line just above the top crux on Eyes Wide Shut. Hope that makes a little more sense?

Yeah, not sure why its down as the same crag?! unless they're trying to call the whole area of Dovedale one crag?

In reply to UKC News:

'Eyes Wide Shut' got it's first repeat last week by an on-form and seemingly unstoppable Jordan Buys.

Fresh off the back of repeating several Dave Birkett E9s he felt the route easier than the given grade but confirmed the quality saying it "should be a future classic"

While in Dovedale Jordan also repeated Tom Randall's addition to Ilam Rock 'Final Round', claiming it was a 'toughie' with french 8b climbing making it one of the harder trad routes in the country.

Well done to Jordan, Joe & Tom.

Source: ukbouldering.com

In reply to Wood for Trees:






For completeness, Jordan suggested E7 and F7c/+ climbing.