In reply to UKC News:
Allow me:
>Once I started giving it legit red point burns I pushed my high point higher every day (including one fall from the very last move on Saturday) so I thought I might get off easy without entering the realm of pre-send stress, the realm of manifesting worst case scenarios.
Translation: once I started trying to climb the route in one go, I got a bit further on each attempt, and, perhaps a little prematurely, thought I'd get it done before getting pissy about it.
>But of course as happens with the most meaningful projects, progress wasn't linear and I had a heady couple days of "regression" before realizing how dialled I had it and taking advantage of a one hour window of the right kind of wind yesterday.
Translation: As is sometimes the case when trying to do a hard rock climb, you stuff it up a few times, before the practice pays off. [untranslatable bit about wind.....?]
>The important ones always get heady, break you down and force you to check at least some of your ego at the bottom. That's what I love and hate about hard projects: they force you to surrender.
Translation: Hard climbs make you have to try really hard, which is great fun.